Jump to content

Appie

Eurobricks Knights
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    992

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Appie

  1. Appie
    Thanks! It did cost a bit, but that's mostly because I hardly had any dark blue bricks/Technic before starting this model. Luckily I got an order in when Lego's brick order system still worked for my country, since most of the stuff on this car is currently being produced (3L dark blue liftarm, dark blue 3x3 half liftarm and some metallic silver parts being the only exception I think). One part I did avoid using during the build was the 5L dark blue liftarms (hard to come by on bricklink) and simply replaced those with 5x3 L-shape dark blue liftarms, which are readily available. In case you want to know where: there's 6 (3 on each side) L-shaped liftarms hidden on the sides of the trunk. @brunojj1 Thank you very much! I really appreciated the feedback I got on this model in this topic on things to improve upon. So I want to say thanks to everybody for that.
  2. Appie
    Thanks for the information Didumos and the compliment
  3. Appie
    Meant to edit my last post instead of double post, but anyway: One question though @tomek9210, because while I do not want to dispute physics (as if I could), after reading your comment I am trying to figure out why the suspension was stronger in my second setup at the front than the first, while I increased the angle. I could write it off as a placebo effect, but that doesn't make sense to me considering the course of events. I found one of the posts I read before this MOC from Didumos and Erik Leppen on this matter and while I didn't fully understand it at that time, I think I get what they mean now. It's about this post Could it be explained that because I increased the distance between the rotation point of the suspension arm and the shock in that second setup at the front, it made the suspension stronger, despite the increased angle? This would also explain why the Beach Buggy was so soft on the suspension. Sorry to bother you with this, just trying to grasp the physics behind all this. For reference I shamelessly abused Didumos render in that post to show the 2 setups I had for the springs (the red lines) for the front on the Phantom: PhantomFrontSetup1-2 by Appie NL, on Flickr
  4. Appie
    Ok, noted on the suspension then. I dismissed the veritcal mounts from the start pretty much on the Beach Buggy experience alone, but good to know for a next time. Vertical mounts on this car would fit I think and perhaps I would only have to use 2 hard springs then, but since the current setup works, I am not going to bother taking apart 50% of the car for that at this point. I am not a fan of the usual Lego torsion bar method that involves twisting axles, so no and I never considered an anti-roll bar, but even if I did, there'd be no space for it.
  5. Appie
    I actually don't, but the thought has crossed my mind to do that. As for the shocks, I remember this image from an old Eurobricks topic concerning spring resistance: From this topic. Seems they can handle quite a bit? For an actual application, I also remember Didumos' modded Chiron front suspension where he applied 2.8kg of force to fully compress the 4 hard springs on that. Not saying this makes the 10kg accurate, it's still a guess, but perhaps a good guess? I will see if I can borrow a human scale for a bit since I want to know now how far off I am Oh wow! Thanks!
  6. Appie
    @tomek9210No reply regarding the suspension? For this model I am probably not changing it at this point even if there is a better configuration, since this works and fits, but knowledge on this will be good to have for new builds. So interested to hear what you think (or anybody else who feels like chiming in). As for the hood. The real Phantom has a minor incline in the hood towards the windshield. I had the tiles you see raised half a plate on the hood, completely on top of the liftarms at first, this felt off and hardly subtle like the real thing. This also meant I never tried a full stud on top of that hood when a single plate already felt too much that I had to resort to this half plate raised construction. (edit: I should mention that in the pictures, the flat silver soft axle on the side of the hood is unintentionally raised in the middle, you can normally see more blue above it. Always some stuff that moved and you notice after making the pictures, at least for me ) At the trunk I did put the tiles on top because I felt the lines were a little more pronounced at that section. @mpj Thanks! The part for the exhaust is this part.
  7. Appie
    Hmmm, my personal experience with mounting them vertically made for actually easier to compress suspension than a certain amount of angled and I thought I read similar stuff from others, but I could be mistaken, I am no expert on this matter. This is my personal experience with vertical mounted suspension in a MOC from 2016, I made this video back then because people thought the suspension would be very hard, which it clearly isn't: Same suspension arm length as the Phantom, perhaps the mounting point of the springs on the arms would play a part in this, but considering the depth of the Chiron wheels it would be close to similar (maybe 1 stud closer to the wheels) if I'd mount them vertically in the chassis of the Phantom. On this Beach Buggy I simply needed 2 hard springs per wheel (and the thing weighs 2kg tops, probably around 1.5kg, I still have it build, so I could actually weigh it) because any other combination of springs would make the suspension stop working. I did find out though that it was easier to compress the suspension when I angled them more on the Phantom from their current position (1 stud lower on the chassis on one end of the spring and 1 stud more towards the wheel on the other end of the spring), so I am not saying there's isn't some truth to what you're saying, just unsure full vertical is the answer. Edit: another thing that is making me doubt the full vertical as a better option, is that when I first made the suspension at the front and rear, I had 2 mounting positions for them (with 2 hard springs on each suspension arm). The second being more angled than the first and at the front, the increase in weight it could handle was quite a bit more (at the rear the results were skewed by me also increasing the suspension arm length from 5 to 6 studs at the same time). In the first setup at the front it started failing around a few bits of bodywork. In the second setup it was "ok now I am out" once I started to build the dash, engine cover (not to be confused with the hood), roof and front seats. Which resulted in this 3 spring setup. The rear having a lot more weight to handle than the front meant it gave out alot sooner in the second setup (I'd say the weight distribution of the car from the rear to the front is about 60-40%).
  8. Appie
    I don't have a LDD, but made some pics for you, dark outside now, so it's pictures with flash, hope they are still good enough: Rear: 20190827_211231 by Appie NL, on Flickr A little note on the rear mounting with those 3x3 round Technic things near the wheel mounting points (Hero factory weapon barrel on bricklink apparently): In this configuration these touch the insides of the wheels when the model is off the ground. If I mounted them one stud further from the wheel they would touch them even more. I decided to use this part instead of something like one 2L half liftarms with axle holes on each side, because it had to handle the weight of the car and the 3 hard springs and the issue is gone once the model is on the ground because the suspension then sacks a little and it drives smoothly. Front: 20190827_211256 by Appie NL, on Flickr You might have noticed in the "belly" pic, but to be clear: the 2 springs at the rear are parallel. Since the steering is at the front, this was the only place I had left to mount a third. On an unrelated note: where are my brake calipers? I couldn't decide on a colour yet
  9. Appie
    Thanks guys! @Attika oh yeah, I forgot to mention about the weight. I can't tell you exactly. The only scale I got here at home goes up to 5kg, and the Rolls makes that tilt, my guess is that it is close to or at 10kg. The drivetrain is the modded version from Didumos and JB70 from the Chiron, so it is geared down for the gearbox, so I don't notice any issues there. Another thing though, the steering is a little hard when the car is standing still. I chose a gear combination that would result in only turning the steeringwheel 90 degrees, but with the weight and friction of the tires I should perhaps reconsider that. It turns better when moving obviously. Or maybe I should have gone for "powersteering" in this MOC I feel the same way about the rear wheelarch btw, but I also think this works better for the car as a whole even if the other option was curved more like the real thing.
  10. Appie
    Thanks guys, I'm glad to hear that
  11. Appie
    Thanks. In the door there's a small LA, linked to a lever that is connected to the window, which makes it go up and down.
  12. Appie
    Updated OP with new pictures and a little video, but also in this post. I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build.  20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr And for Attika, here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning
  13. Appie
    Fair enough. One thing though for me personally about your point of staying with the hobby for years helping us to find these instructions too easy: I can honestly say, I make more mistakes with modern instructions than I did with the ones I had as a kid. So am I going backwards? I know.
  14. Appie
    Too true
  15. Appie
    Could be, but it will all depend on the manual imo. If it still uses baby steps for kids like all other sets, then it still isn't fully tuned for AFOLs.
  16. Appie
    Let's not start the discussion again. I know you mean well, but you're not going to change my mind on the matter.
  17. Appie
    Ah Horace T, that one, don't really see mounting options on that unless I want to mount the tiles on their side, but that is under consideration. I see what you mean. I am not sure how to fix it at the moment, but I will try again at some point.
  18. Appie
    Thanks, which sloped brick do you exactly mean though? The 2x8's going towards the tail lights? Good point, easily fixed by adding another plate on the top and making the arch ends 1 stud closer to each other. Just tried it, looks better, so thanks. Thanks, but which do you mean? There's only 2 panels left and with neither I see a real problem or I can't think of a better solution at the moment.
  19. Appie
    Thanks I changed some stuff at the rear section. The rear wheelarch in brick form. 20190808_184503 by Appie NL, on Flickr I quite like it like this. As you can see I also adjusted the rear window behind the backseat door,, so it's less "boxed in" the bodywork. I want to order this part to get some curve in that last silver lining of the window. The whole rear is a little sleeker now due to the new style rear window and the Technic panel behind it being 1 stud inwards on the model. 20190808_184527 by Appie NL, on Flickr I tried removing that Technic panel btw, but the the ideas I had for it (curved slopes gradually dropping 1 or half a stud or just using plates and or tiles wasn't really working for me). So until I get an idea or hear of one, it is staying. One thing I still need to fix, is the sudden 1 stud drop from the doorframe to the rear wheelarch. This is supposed to be one smooth dropped line towards the tail lights. I won't be able to that, but I could try to mount some plate/tiles to get a decent way there if I can get them mounted properly.
  20. Appie
    I guess you mean the tile edge below the silver flex axle on the hood especially? Yeah, I'd have to rework that to make it work better. On the real car the hood colour is present under the silver lining, but thinner, it blended in blue, but like this it is too pronounced. Thanks, I'll see what I can do about the windscreen to add some curve once I finish the dashboard.
  21. Appie
    The old 90's Technic motor has 4100 rpm at 9V according to Philo's testing. So maybe? Perhaps like the 90's motor it isn't downgeared internally like modern PF/Control+
  22. Appie
    Thanks Attika. Another thing I was thinking of was wether I should try to build this in the typical Rolls two-tone or keep it one colour. I couldn't figure out a colour that would work well with dark blue and had the parts available in the right colours, I only considered white an option for the parts available and since the interior would be mostly white and I didn't want to change that, I didn't think that would be a good idea. Then somebody pointed out black to me and I think that could work, what do you guys think of this quick mockup? Go for this or stay with full dark blue? BlueAndBlackMaybe by Appie NL, on Flickr
  23. Appie
    Thanks (also MxWinters) I am personally not a fan of making WIP topics either, but I do find them refreshing to look at a model differently through the feedback of other people or revisit ideas I dismissed earlier. After building for X months I tend to get tunnel vision and get lost in that. Having a fresh look at stuff people point out helps to break that. In the end I will still do what I feel is best for the model or what I want out of the model and this might go directly against the feedback provided, but if that happens I will have tried to make that feedback work, so don't think any of your feedback is for nothing, I greatly appreciate it. Lego is always about finding that compromise you can live with when building a MOC imo. Take the feedback for the windows for example. The electric windows are a key feature, removal is not an option. This not only affects how the windows look, but also how I make the doorhinges work. Windows have to work while the door is opened and closed, because one or the other would be silly imo. Yes, these are self-imposed rules, but that's my vision. This creates problems, like the gap at the wheelarch, the wheelarch at the rear as a whole. Then how the windows look. I can't have actual windows on the side and not on the windscreen, that would be silly imo (again self-imposed). I am trying to figure out a "window frame" now that doesn't look out of place. Do I move the silver lining of the window (which technically doesn't move in real life) or do I make a window frame below this. If I make it below it and it isn't some type of transparant I think it will look out of place and if I make it transparant, why isn't it a full window then? So actually the windscreen being as it is atm is the compromise for the feature. On the other hand, if I manage windowless, I could also tweak the little window at the backseat door that is fixed to the body and would help with the getting the gap clean in that area. So there is something to gain as well from moving away from windows. Which compromise to settle on? Or the stuff for the rear wheelarch I am now looking at again: I am technically already cheating a stud on the scale that I am allowed to use in that space (door is supertight on the the rear wheel arch in real life), how will I brace another design of the rear wheelarch in the same amount of space, especially if brickbuild? Then there's the doorhinge in that area. In order to have a somewhat smooth sideline, the Technic wheelarch panel actually flexes a wee bit when opening the door the first bit of it (omg illegal? ). So all sorts of stuff to look at again on the model provided by this topic. The stepper works great, I actually adjusted it slightly so the servo always makes a full turn (I sorta broke one once in a little RC car that couldn't make full 90 degrees turns on the servo, made me cautious). As for the belly shot, it will have to wait. I'd rather show it once I have properly placed the structure for that instead of a few beams here and there As for the weight, I actually want to buy a scale for it to see how much, but for a 1:8 Lego car it's heavy. It houses 5 M-motors, 1 servo, 1 Lipo BB, 6 PF switches and 3 PF lights. The brickbuild body adds a good chunk of weight as well, not to mention how dense I tend to build normally with Technic and this chassis is no exception.
  24. Appie
    I see what you mean. Thanks for the feedback. Due to the function of the electric windows I thought it be cool to have actual windows, but perhaps I should just use a window frame and remove the rest. The "gap filling" I personally don't like as well, especially between the rear wheelarch and the door. I will try to improve that. Not filling it looks worse imo, because you'd look straight into the window mechanism, which I think looks weird when the rest has been closed a little better than that section. I couldn't figure out a system where the doorhinge moved outwards while still keeping a 1 stud wide driveshaft going for the window function in the space I had. Edit: made a picture for you without the filler for yourself to judge. Gap by Appie NL, on Flickr (hmmm, dusty Lego...) I see, the wheelarch at the back felt weird to me too, I kept it because the real thing has that curve inwards as well above the wheel. The front has this too, but less pronounced, which is why I just left it out there. I dismissed the idea of building it in bricks because I thought this was closest to the real car and added bonus of being in one piece, but I will try to work it out. @Good old Lego builder Thanks, the size of the tire is in scale, used Sariel's scale tool (one of the people I forgot to mention) for this, so I guess it's the wheel arches.
  25. Appie
    I personally don't like a few sections either, but what is it you don't like?
×
×
  • Create New...