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About Daedalus304

  • Birthday 03/28/1990

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  1. Daedalus304

    Unauthorized selling of instructions for MOCs

    There are a couple ways. Taking screenshots manually every few parts additions, there is a program called Blueprint that you can find in the LDD Forum, or you can just generate LDD's "Instructions" and sell off that garbled mess. Almost always, these poachers just sell you the LDD file and call that "Instructions". From the one video I've seen from this particular offender, I'm strongly inclined to believe it's either the LDD Generated instructions or just a raw LXF file that he was selling.
  2. Daedalus304

    Unauthorized selling of instructions for MOCs

    Sure. The majority of the content was stolen work. If he feels like his own work is strong enough and valuable enough to gain that many subscribers on his own merit he should be able to build it back up again - but with how muddy the waters get in things like this, detaching from the shady poaching that's defined the channel is probably best for everybody in the long run. Youtube fans aren't going to lose interest in the subject matter just because one video maker has left, they'll just go find someone else who offers comparable content - and with any luck they'll find someone who runs their channel with integrity and doesn't poach. I think that's also best for everybody. Interesting there was an open call for LXF files to be submitted and no mention of "By the way, I'm going to try to sell your work and keep all the proceeds for myself".
  3. Daedalus304

    Unauthorized selling of instructions for MOCs

    If these "Instructions" are on the same level of quality as every other MOC Poacher out there who steals other people's work, it's probably literally just the LXF file. On top of the ridiculousness of charging money for somebody else's free work, I can't even begin agree that simply redistributing another person's free LXF file constitutes enough work to skim off a full 50% of whatever is being charged. If the MOC Poacher actually had the skill to put time and effort into making REAL instructions I could see an argument for wanting a portion of the proceeds, but even THAT should only be done with explicit permission. It's not a generational thing. Thieves and scoundrels of all sort have been doing this since long before any modern country existed. As long as there are hard-working, talented people to make things, there are poachers and opportunists there to swipe the credit and take the money on their behalf. I remember not too long ago some guy came here posting one of Zephyr's fantastic EMD units as his own, also selling it and literally dozens of other poached MOCs from members of EB as well as Brickshelf and MOC Pages. My recommendation is that if you see your own, or somebody else's, work being blatantly poached and monetized, bring it to the attention of the mods/admins.
  4. Daedalus304

    LDD 4.3.11 Update Discussion

    It looks like a couple parts from the upcoming Power Functions 2.0 snuck in there, the new LPF 2.0 Medium Motor and a part just called "Front Housing", which is particularly intriguing to me since it doesn't itself seem to have a motor. Could it be a housing for a new Power Functions Small Motor???
  5. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I've got some great news that's really mostly only of interest to the people who've been dealing with this somewhat niche issue: It looks like the newest LDD Update 4.3.11 has finally resolved the issues with the GTX10XX Series graphics cards - My GTX 1070 SC card can now properly render even my largest files with the outlines turned on without any issues.
  6. I think it was on the right track but just one step short. If they were to do a Chief again, have the set include 1 Locomotive and 2-3 cars, but have instructions and parts for a B-Unit and instructions/parts for 3 variations of each car. That way you have one $120-$150 set that has one loco and three cars, and high value for duplicate purchases, since each purchase would yield unique additions.
  7. Daedalus304

    Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    I really love this idea and would be totally down for these if the price isn't prohibitive. I've looked into trying out Kadee O-Scale couplers which are about $7-$8 I think, which is right about the most I could see paying for these. Certainly would not mind if they turned out cheaper than that, though. Two thoughts I have regarding the design - 1. Instead of using magnets to line the couplers up, is there any way you could fit some sort of centering spring instead? That seems like it would be a simpler and possibly more reliable option. The auto-coupling wouldn't line up the best on sharp turns I'd wager, but that doesn't seem like too big of an issue and I wouldn't care at all. 2. Thinking a little bit ahead, it might be cool to put some sort of very small hole through the pawl release. With a hole there, someone could theoretically loop a bit of string through it and have it connected to a tiny motor inside the engine for a hands-off uncoupling without needing some sort of mechanism in the track bed. Or, perhaps, offer an option for a slightly more expensive pawl release that's magnetized. In that case, we could hide magnets in the yard track bed and it could release when the coupler is stopped over the magnet, like the way the Kadee option works.
  8. Daedalus304

    Increasing Speed

    If you are running four motors off one battery and one receiver, you haven't got enough power to go around. Go down to just two motors, or get another Battery Box/Receiver. For your locomotives, I would check your wheels and rods to make sure they can spin freely. I've seen a lot of people who have built Tony's trains using the black Friction Pins for their drive rods, and that will absolutely devour your power. If your wheels won't free spin for a few rotations you have things too tight.
  9. Incredible model, absolutely amazing level of detail. All your models have been great, but it seems like you've managed to outdo yourself here!
  10. Daedalus304

    [MOC] Coos Bay Lumber Co #10 & #11

    Thanks! I plan on having one eventually, but at the moment my layout is little more than a flat loop. My plans are to first get the main loop established and once that's the size I'd like it, I'm going to see about adding in a small branch line for the logging stuff. Depending on what's available as far as crossovers and switches go, I'm planning to have the branch line cross through with the main line and use some of that rail for a short distance, going from outside the loop to the inside. Thank you!
  11. Daedalus304

    [MOC] Coos Bay Lumber Co #10 & #11

    Thank you! The answer is pretty mundane. I didn't have enough curves slopes for both sets of pistons and keep forgetting that it doesn't have them and I need to order more. Thanks! The chassis detailing is a big part of the reason I went for these locomotives specifically - the saddle tank is so high and tall that I could hide the battery in there and not have to sacrifice any detailing. I'm glad to hear others enjoy those details as much as I do!
  12. I hear you! Having only a month sure does bring a quick pace to the whole thing. It's very nice to be done with it! I certainly don't envy the judges. A lot of great entries have come in and I don't know if I could choose between them!
  13. I've had this pair of locomotives built for a while, but they had a rather long wait for their drive rods and then another for the stickers, and then again after that I needed to get them photographed. The real Coos Bay #10 and #11 were both originally in the line for restoration, and #11 is actually currently being restored. #10, however, has had a much more unfortunate tale - sold between a few different railroads with the intent of eventual restoration, but along the way more and more parts were lost until finally it was no longer considered a reasonable cost. Sadly, the real #10 has been scrapped. I came across the Coos engines on a search online for some engines to work in my eventual layout's yard. I wanted a short, nimble tank engine with a wheelbase less than 2 track segments long, and I wanted ideally a large saddle tank so I could fit all my PF in there and still have a high level of detail. During my search I found the Coos Bay #11, and then learned about #10 as well, and they fit the bill perfectly. Even better, they were locos of logging heritage - which means they match up pretty well with my mallets. Each one is powered by a single M-motor hidden in the firebox. Their individual strength is modest, but definitely sufficient for the yard work they're intended for. They also double head nicely, and have a surprisingly decent amount of strength together. Having a pair of locomotives like this, built for a purpose, makes my railway plans feel just a bit more real. A couple more pictures of them can be found in their Flickr Album. I've got a train show coming up in a couple weeks and hope to be able to get some good footage of them running the yard! Many thanks to Andy Mollman for the excellent stickers and to Zephyr for the fantastic-as-always drive rods!
  14. Daedalus304

    [MOC] - 4-wide FYRA

    If this is meant to be cheating, I'm afraid you've done a poor job of it - the point of cheating is supposed to be to make things easier for yourself!! I can't speak for the judges, but as a fellow competitor I can definitely say that you've done something really cool that I think really meets the spirit of the competition. This is one of, if not THE, best 4-wide builds I've seen. Best of luck to you!
  15. Thanks, guys! It certainly is a crazy prototype. Here's the basics of it: The engine frames are actually built upside-down, and the boiler is attached to each engine by the 4x4 turntables over the 2nd and 3rd driver. If you disregard the red sections, basically what I have is two very close pivots under the boiler for the engine frames. These wheelsets can pivot freely as needed to negotiate turns, and this is not hindered or limited by the gearing (In practical application, that is. Off the rails there is indeed a point where the boiler will reach it's flexible limit and the wheelsets won't pivot any further - though that requires a lot tighter a turn than R40). The gearing is connected solidly to these engines, though, so when they rotate underneath the boiler it actuates their respective half of the flexing mechanism. Also, since the bend mechanism works in two halves like this - S-curves aren't a problem. Getting this system smoothed out to take out all the backlash in the gears, keep everything lined up at all times, and most importantly making sure that the resistance in the Bellows mechanism didn't prohibit the drivers from getting the motion they needed to prevent derailing - that was the trick, and I'm really happy with how well this final product works. If I couldn't have gotten this mechanism right, I wouldn't have built the locomotive at all. A lot of much more complicated systems were trialed and thrown out for various failures before I found a spare one of the Bionicle gear levers in a corner of my desk and upon closer inspection I realized that the teeth on the gear were lined up perfectly for a straight connection - which is a luxury not many other gears had. For a long time I had been working with "1 x 7 with Gear 9 Tooth Double Bevel Ends", but the teeth don't line up nicely at all with that and to get the angles straightened out took too many gears; which introduced too much backlash and so forth. I thought about those, and I think those would work even better than the hose segment I'm using - I just didn't have and couldn't find any in the right size. I'm definitely going to keep an eye out, though - this does work, but more efficiency is always great. :D