Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Daedalus304

  • Birthday 03/28/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Mexico


  • Country
  • Special Tags 1

Recent Profile Visitors

1480 profile views
  1. LDD 4.3.11 Update Discussion

    It looks like a couple parts from the upcoming Power Functions 2.0 snuck in there, the new LPF 2.0 Medium Motor and a part just called "Front Housing", which is particularly intriguing to me since it doesn't itself seem to have a motor. Could it be a housing for a new Power Functions Small Motor???
  2. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I've got some great news that's really mostly only of interest to the people who've been dealing with this somewhat niche issue: It looks like the newest LDD Update 4.3.11 has finally resolved the issues with the GTX10XX Series graphics cards - My GTX 1070 SC card can now properly render even my largest files with the outlines turned on without any issues.
  3. I think it was on the right track but just one step short. If they were to do a Chief again, have the set include 1 Locomotive and 2-3 cars, but have instructions and parts for a B-Unit and instructions/parts for 3 variations of each car. That way you have one $120-$150 set that has one loco and three cars, and high value for duplicate purchases, since each purchase would yield unique additions.
  4. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    I really love this idea and would be totally down for these if the price isn't prohibitive. I've looked into trying out Kadee O-Scale couplers which are about $7-$8 I think, which is right about the most I could see paying for these. Certainly would not mind if they turned out cheaper than that, though. Two thoughts I have regarding the design - 1. Instead of using magnets to line the couplers up, is there any way you could fit some sort of centering spring instead? That seems like it would be a simpler and possibly more reliable option. The auto-coupling wouldn't line up the best on sharp turns I'd wager, but that doesn't seem like too big of an issue and I wouldn't care at all. 2. Thinking a little bit ahead, it might be cool to put some sort of very small hole through the pawl release. With a hole there, someone could theoretically loop a bit of string through it and have it connected to a tiny motor inside the engine for a hands-off uncoupling without needing some sort of mechanism in the track bed. Or, perhaps, offer an option for a slightly more expensive pawl release that's magnetized. In that case, we could hide magnets in the yard track bed and it could release when the coupler is stopped over the magnet, like the way the Kadee option works.
  5. Increasing Speed

    If you are running four motors off one battery and one receiver, you haven't got enough power to go around. Go down to just two motors, or get another Battery Box/Receiver. For your locomotives, I would check your wheels and rods to make sure they can spin freely. I've seen a lot of people who have built Tony's trains using the black Friction Pins for their drive rods, and that will absolutely devour your power. If your wheels won't free spin for a few rotations you have things too tight.
  6. Incredible model, absolutely amazing level of detail. All your models have been great, but it seems like you've managed to outdo yourself here!
  7. [MOC] Coos Bay Lumber Co #10 & #11

    Thanks! I plan on having one eventually, but at the moment my layout is little more than a flat loop. My plans are to first get the main loop established and once that's the size I'd like it, I'm going to see about adding in a small branch line for the logging stuff. Depending on what's available as far as crossovers and switches go, I'm planning to have the branch line cross through with the main line and use some of that rail for a short distance, going from outside the loop to the inside. Thank you!
  8. [MOC] Coos Bay Lumber Co #10 & #11

    Thank you! The answer is pretty mundane. I didn't have enough curves slopes for both sets of pistons and keep forgetting that it doesn't have them and I need to order more. Thanks! The chassis detailing is a big part of the reason I went for these locomotives specifically - the saddle tank is so high and tall that I could hide the battery in there and not have to sacrifice any detailing. I'm glad to hear others enjoy those details as much as I do!
  9. I hear you! Having only a month sure does bring a quick pace to the whole thing. It's very nice to be done with it! I certainly don't envy the judges. A lot of great entries have come in and I don't know if I could choose between them!
  10. I've had this pair of locomotives built for a while, but they had a rather long wait for their drive rods and then another for the stickers, and then again after that I needed to get them photographed. The real Coos Bay #10 and #11 were both originally in the line for restoration, and #11 is actually currently being restored. #10, however, has had a much more unfortunate tale - sold between a few different railroads with the intent of eventual restoration, but along the way more and more parts were lost until finally it was no longer considered a reasonable cost. Sadly, the real #10 has been scrapped. I came across the Coos engines on a search online for some engines to work in my eventual layout's yard. I wanted a short, nimble tank engine with a wheelbase less than 2 track segments long, and I wanted ideally a large saddle tank so I could fit all my PF in there and still have a high level of detail. During my search I found the Coos Bay #11, and then learned about #10 as well, and they fit the bill perfectly. Even better, they were locos of logging heritage - which means they match up pretty well with my mallets. Each one is powered by a single M-motor hidden in the firebox. Their individual strength is modest, but definitely sufficient for the yard work they're intended for. They also double head nicely, and have a surprisingly decent amount of strength together. Having a pair of locomotives like this, built for a purpose, makes my railway plans feel just a bit more real. A couple more pictures of them can be found in their Flickr Album. I've got a train show coming up in a couple weeks and hope to be able to get some good footage of them running the yard! Many thanks to Andy Mollman for the excellent stickers and to Zephyr for the fantastic-as-always drive rods!
  11. [MOC] - 4-wide FYRA

    If this is meant to be cheating, I'm afraid you've done a poor job of it - the point of cheating is supposed to be to make things easier for yourself!! I can't speak for the judges, but as a fellow competitor I can definitely say that you've done something really cool that I think really meets the spirit of the competition. This is one of, if not THE, best 4-wide builds I've seen. Best of luck to you!
  12. Thanks, guys! It certainly is a crazy prototype. Here's the basics of it: The engine frames are actually built upside-down, and the boiler is attached to each engine by the 4x4 turntables over the 2nd and 3rd driver. If you disregard the red sections, basically what I have is two very close pivots under the boiler for the engine frames. These wheelsets can pivot freely as needed to negotiate turns, and this is not hindered or limited by the gearing (In practical application, that is. Off the rails there is indeed a point where the boiler will reach it's flexible limit and the wheelsets won't pivot any further - though that requires a lot tighter a turn than R40). The gearing is connected solidly to these engines, though, so when they rotate underneath the boiler it actuates their respective half of the flexing mechanism. Also, since the bend mechanism works in two halves like this - S-curves aren't a problem. Getting this system smoothed out to take out all the backlash in the gears, keep everything lined up at all times, and most importantly making sure that the resistance in the Bellows mechanism didn't prohibit the drivers from getting the motion they needed to prevent derailing - that was the trick, and I'm really happy with how well this final product works. If I couldn't have gotten this mechanism right, I wouldn't have built the locomotive at all. A lot of much more complicated systems were trialed and thrown out for various failures before I found a spare one of the Bionicle gear levers in a corner of my desk and upon closer inspection I realized that the teeth on the gear were lined up perfectly for a straight connection - which is a luxury not many other gears had. For a long time I had been working with "1 x 7 with Gear 9 Tooth Double Bevel Ends", but the teeth don't line up nicely at all with that and to get the angles straightened out took too many gears; which introduced too much backlash and so forth. I thought about those, and I think those would work even better than the hose segment I'm using - I just didn't have and couldn't find any in the right size. I'm definitely going to keep an eye out, though - this does work, but more efficiency is always great. :D
  13. "There's a prototype for everything" I've heard that said several times in the LEGO train community since I started building, and the longer I go the more I see the truth in it. Long boilers with crazy overhang is a problem we often run into pretty quickly in the LEGO world, but it was a problem for real-world engines as well. One solution, attemped by Baldwin in 1910, was to make the boiler of the locomotive itself flexible - using a flexible metal bellows in the middle. Of course, they weren't so crazy as to actually put boiling hot water through these flexible bellows - the boiler itself ended just before this segment. Instead, all the hot gases used for the superheater, a water reheater, a water preheater, and more were stuffed in there. It's really an amazing idea, and I'd suggest you read up on it more here: History of the Flexible Articulated Mallet I've had this locomotive on my "To Build" list for a while, but never really did anything with it. I knew two things for certain, though - A) I was going to build it with a boiler that would flex in curves and only in the curves, and B) I'd never be so damn foolish as to try to get this monstrosity to go through R40, and would instead take advantage of the wide radius turns. Enter OcTRAINber. This engine would easily be long enough to look silly through turns, and would be really fun to try to speed-build. I was set. And then, the rules came out. Must be over 70+ studs for a permanently coupled pair - it's 85 studs over the coupler, so - Check. Needs a video of a swoosh through R40 curves - Che... oh no. The first two weeks of October were taken up trying to make this work. A reliable, flexible boiler mechanism that could make it through an R40 curve without derailing or experiencing too much friction, and a mechanism to keep the boiler bending ONLY in turns was an absolute must. 2 weeks and one incredibly lucky part discovery gave me a great solution for everything - except the bellows themselves. I tried just about every LEGO tire I could find that was the right size, but none of them could compress right and in the end I had to find a non-LEGO solution. A 3-studs long section of some Shop Vac hose became my Bellows, and I truly believe that this was the only possible solution. Either way, I was out of time. It was also a great opportunity to try out a few new build ideas - the platform for the headlamp, a new way of building the bell, and some chassis-mounted roller bearings to help the extremely off-balance boiler pivot and turn smooth and easy. Whatever the outcome, this was great fun to build despite the stress. Having a full half of the contest time burnt up just trying to get the concept ironed out certainly provided some amount of worry, but in the end I've got a unique, interesting mechanism that is a whole lot of fun. I am definitely going to continue working on this engine. Just, maybe a little break first. There are a few differences in my model from the "real thing", primarily the positioning of the bellows. The real engine had these just over the rear driver of the front engine, but because of the way the engine needed to be articulated and because of the precision needed with the boiler-flexing mechanism I had to move it back a few studs. I've slightly re-positioned a few of the other details to try to help balance this out aesthetically. This is the outside of the boiler in an R40 curve, where the pipes need to both hinge and telescope smoothly to let the boiler bend: And here is the inside of the boiler in an R40 curve, showing how tight it needs to be able to pinch in: Because the pivot points are so close together - the 2nd and 3rd drivers, the back half of the locomotive has a lot of hanging weight. This is supported by a couple roller bearings just in front of the firebox, above the last driver. There are a lot more pictures in my Flickr Album, if you'd like to see more. Soon, hopefully, I will find a good way to show the mechanism inside the boiler that controls the flexing. But, of course, pictures aren't quite the same as the real deal - the SWOOSH!!
  14. BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

    It's super awesome to see how these are coming along, they look great! Also, I'm very happy to see that the rail profile matches very closely (If not precisely) to the one LEGO uses. One of my small handful of problems with my ME curves is that the base of the rail is so tall that my BBB-driver locos ride on their flanges instead of the actual 'tire', which isn't super great for traction on my driver-powered locos. These don't look like they're going to have that problem!
  15. TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

    Oh right, I knew I was forgetting something. I've added a couple links and short write-ups in my last post just to keep the 3rd party stuff all together. Now that I've gone through all of this stuff it's actually amazing just how many 3rd party options there are now for us train guys. What a time to come into the hobby!