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About Daedalus304

  • Birthday 03/28/1990

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  1. Daedalus304

    Are smaller flanges possible on larger radius tracks?

    I think that if I were to build anything for a track that's not compatible with regular LEGO track, I'd probably rather just go for one of the other pre-existing model railroad tracks. O-Gauge or G-Gauge are both fairly close and readily available.
  2. Daedalus304

    Is it worth it to get into 9V trains now?

    I would say that right now, no, it is not worth investing in 9v with 1 slim exception. I'll explain. If you are excited about all the potential new 9v stuff that looks to be on the horizon, and are planning to get that stuff - the premiums you're going to be paying on current 9v track and motors is a waste (IMO). Expensive 9v train motors are also very underpowered compared to modern PF/PU motors of all types. Whether the new 3rd party stuff offers just a straight replacement for the old motors or a much more versatile power pickup, I don't see much sense in spending a ton of money chasing down the old equipment when you'll surely be able to get much better bang for your buck if the new stuff pans out. Which is sort of the second reason I'd say to hold off on investing in 9v right now - the old "Don't count your chickens before they hatch" adage. If you do invest some into 9v stuff now with the intention of supplementing it with the 3rd party stuff later, despite the costs thing mentioned before - you're kinda in a pickle if for some, any reason at all, the 3rd party stuff doesn't pan out the way you're wanting, hoping, or expecting it to. Good quality 3rd party LEGO train stuff has a lot of uphill battles and doesn't always come out the way anyone thinks it will - unless you've got money to burn and are ok going full-tilt into the current limited 9v options even if the 3rd party stuff doesn't come through, I'd stay away from it for now. That said, I don't think that means you have to put your whole hobby on pause while you wait to see what happens. Stuff like rolling stock, trackside structures, and your layout just don't care what your power option is. You can't go wrong building up more of that stuff. A lot of engines are pretty easy to retrofit - any engine you can build using the "Train Motor" can be swapped over to a 9v train easily later if you really want to, and depending on if/how a power pickup comes around, you may well be able to adapt a lot of other types of engines later, too. So basically, to sum up: There's a ton of really amazing potential on the horizon, for sure. If it works out perfectly, then there's little sense buying the much more expensive and old stuff available now. And if it doesn't work out, then you're stuck in an awkward position where you either have to keep going on the super expensive route or switch back to the PF/PU anyways. Patience seems to be the winning move right now.
  3. Daedalus304

    Does anyone use decals instead of stickers?

    I used some O-Scale Waterslide Decals several years ago when I built a PRR N8 Cabin Car for Cale. It took a little practice but they were not too bad to apply. I haven't asked how they've held up over the years, but I'd assume they should be ok. I also saw someone on Flickr use some Dry Transfer decals where you had to sort of "scrub" them from one surface to another. I can't say anything about how easy it is or how well it holds up, but they looked great.
  4. Daedalus304

    Lego 10277 - Crocodile Locomotive

    Really disappointed in those motor prices. I really want to be excited for PU and I've been pretty content to be patient and wait for it to become really good... But $35-$40 for a single motor is ridiculous. If these things don't get some serious price drops I'll probably just stick with regular PF. It seems like it'll probably take a while for those motors to become as expensive even in the aftermarket after they're not in production.
  5. Daedalus304

    BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

    That's a fantastic price. I wouldn't have dreamed I'd be able to get all that for $40. I am very, very excited to convert over to these switches now. I was excited before, of course, but I thought it would take quite a while. Thanks for clarifying!!
  6. Daedalus304

    BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

    Wait, $40 for a left AND right pack? Meaning both together for $40, or a right switch pack is $40 and a left switch pack is also $40?
  7. Daedalus304

    Lego 10277 - Crocodile Locomotive

    I don't think that's quite right, really. It certainly looks like they're based off of the same real-life engine, but the submission was a much larger 10-wide model and this is only 7. It's definitely unfortunate for that contributor that his model wasn't selected, but what LEGO's offering is very different in almost every way it reasonably could be from a design and detailing perspective, given that they're models of the same real locomotive.
  8. Daedalus304

    New England BrickWorks: 3rd party curves and switches

    To be honest, to get any interest you're going to need to have something to show for it. We've had a lot of people come through promising big things and new innovations. A few, too, who put a ton of time, effort, and money into it and still didn't end up with a completely viable product. I don't know about the rest of the community but I really can't be interested over just an idea, especially since we do have some good options on the market already. Especially so with an experimental/theoretical manufacturing method, I think you really just have to supply something for people to be able to judge the content. We've seen actual injection-molded parts come through before that still had a myriad of issues, not to mention questions and concerns of long-term durability. Clutch is King when dealing with LEGO, and after seeing so many people/companies get it wrong (Including the majority of the large brand-name LEGO knockoffs, such as MegaBlox), coupled with being 3D printed... IMO there's just a lot to prove here. Personally, just having a lower price doesn't interest me without knowing the above information. I would much rather spend $100-$140 on a loop of Bricktracks rail than $60 on a similar loop of track that's going to be a pain to work with and degrade or break after a year or two. Not everybody looks at value that way, of course, we've had lots of people happily buy poorly-designed 3D printed stuff just because it's cheap. But even that, the market has in good saturation. If you can get and show something actually produced with great clutch and a good durability and still have a good price, of course, that would be great - but I would suggest you lead with that! Show us your exciting innovation in practice, instead of the numbers and words we've all seen pass through a dozen times.
  9. It does seem a bit odd. 1 L motor or 2 M motors would hit the clutch gear's torque limit as well and probably consume less power than 2 XLs, surely? I don't think a clutch gear is necessary anyways - axle twisting like that is not likely in a Lego train. In those videos, you've got a very long axle (which is more likely to twist) rigidly secured on one extreme end (not applicable to a Lego train use case) being twisted by motors with an extreme down-gearing... Which you could do! But without the other two conditions, potential for damage to your axles is low. Even if the train was so heavy that the XL motors could not pull it, the wheels would slip and keep the motors from a stall condition. While I have seen Lego parts damaged in Lego trains, in memory it's only been gears and even then, it's very rare and probably from the geartrain itself having a lockup while running. I've had XL motors stall out a couple times during my drivetrain learning days and can't say I've ever damaged - let alone destroyed - any of the parts involved.
  10. That photo, posted in 2015 by Steve B, is as far as I know exactly what Andy is crediting in the first post when he says "Original Code 100 idea by SteveB". I don't think there's any trouble here.
  11. Daedalus304

    Just discovered that Lego trains are beyond my reach

    Just cost for parts, that seems ridiculously high. One thing I would strongly recommend is that you go through the list of parts and find out why - generally you'll find that it's probably because you've got several parts on your list that are incredibly rare and expensive because of it. Once you identify those high cost parts, there's two ways to deal with it. First step is to figure out if you've accidentally used a mold variant that's rare, but a near identical part is super cheap. Swap out anything you can. One example I can think of is a certain type of technic pin that's kinda spendy in Medium Stone Grey, but cheap cheap cheap in the old one. Your second stop after that is to review your model itself and see if you can work out the expensive parts for something else. At this stage I'd also recommend checking if you can streamline your parts used, too - see if you can reduce part count, and also see if you can optimize the amount of unique part types. I wouldn't expect it should be anywhere near that $600-$700 unless you were pushing over 5k parts at least. I've built several large engines and I don't think, for just the basic parts, I've hit even half that cost until I also added in motors and custom wheels.
  12. Daedalus304

    2019 LEGO Trains - 70424

    I can't help but feel that's the case, given the highlight image seems to focus quite more on it being a Canadian thing than it does on the subway itself.
  13. Daedalus304

    New train wheels tested by LEGO

    That is very unfortunate! Reliability is even more important to me than efficiency, really. If the new wheels were merely a little less efficient, it wouldn't be great, but I would not necessarily mind using some if need be. But it seems clear now that, not only do these run worse, their performance degrades as well with use. If, after just a day or two of show conditions, they got bad enough to want to start locking up... Yep. I'm going to have to stick with the old axles. Or, better yet, roller bearings!
  14. Daedalus304

    Do Big Ben wheels need added traction?

    I definitely understand the appeal of the injection molded wheels he produces, but at this point - Maybe it's time to consider Shupp's 3D printed drivers. There's a good variety of designs and you can get them with or without grooves for O-Rings. They're more expensive, sure, but it seems like the best option now.
  15. Daedalus304

    Is 8w or 9w closer to minifigure scale?

    To be fair, a 9w engine pulling 8w cars isn't too big of a difference, being only a half stud per side. If it's a case where the Locomotive for real would end up "in-scale" at 9 wide, it probably was wider than the cars IRL as well. As to your counter - I wouldn't worry. PennLUG, and many other big Scale Modelling groups, generally now build to a scale and not a set stud width. You'll find that in the 1/48~ish modelling many, many examples of 9-wide engines running 8-wide stock.