Hod Carrier

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Hod Carrier

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  1. There's lots of potential UK prototypes you could use, some of which have already been mentioned. I could add to that list almost all multiple unit passenger trains and intermodal wagons that run in permanently coupled sets of three or more. If you prefer to take your inspiration from the era of steam, there are the LMS Beyer Garratt 2-6-0+0-6-2 locos plus any number of articulated passenger coach sets. I was looking forward to a building contest but I fear this has come at the wrong time for me. Unlike others, I don't have a design already waiting to go and a month isn't long to try and get something designed and built. I might see if I can get something ready for the digital category, but that might be as far as I can get.
  2. Train Projects on Lego Ideas

    I'm with Tony on this one, sadly. I have said in a previous thread where this was discussed that I believe that LEGO Ideas is aimed at finding truly original ideas. Trains are simply derivative, especially as all the major types have already been covered. I guess the only faint ray of sunshine was the Caterham Seven, as that was also derivative. However, it was an iconic model done well. I wonder if there's any mileage in a train model similarly designed, with removable panels showing internal details, etc.
  3. 9v battery + PF wire?

    I've used the MiniZip and a PP3 for the TRAXX for the very same reason you've mentioned. It's much more compact than the official LEGO alternatives that simply couldn't have been squeezed in. There was no other way to get any power into the model. While I can't argue that the PP3 has less capacity than the official power sources I wouldn't necessarily go along with MAB's fairly bleak assessment. It's not useless for driving small trains, but you may have to be prepared to change the battery if you're planning on a long operating session.
  4. 4 wide Horizon Express and Co

    So nice to see some more 4-wide scale. While I have a powered 4-wide scale TRAXX locomotive I used standard sized wheels. I know 4DBrix showcased some smaller 3D printed wheels, but they weren't suitable for the model because they would lower the height so much it wouldn't be possible to use any coupling bars. You might want to check them out. I'm not entirely sure how much success you would have using rubber bands, but it would be interesting to see. Maybe you should build one and find out. The alternative would be the Technic-based solution designed by Space2310, although it is rather bulky for the models you've produced. I'd be interested to see the internal arrangement of parts you've selected, particularly for power and control. I'm guessing that the grey panels are the sides of the standard LEGO battery box.
  5. Lego 9v Wireless

    That's an interesting alternative system. I'm guessing that each remote is paired to an individual chip, so for two trains you'd need two remotes. I suppose the same control functionality could be had using an SBrick also. Simply connect the power pick-ups to the power input on the bottom of the SBrick and you're off and running. While you wouldn't get any sound from the SBrick you could control up to 16 individual trains from within one profile. And individual SBricks are currently selling for $59 at the moment, so there's a saving to be had too.
  6. [Narrow gauge] Ponfeblino

    Agreed. You've done a fabulous job at capturing the originals in spite of a fairly restrictive scale. Wonderful!! Many congratulations.
  7. SBrick General Discussion

    My apologies if this has been covered before, but is it possible to control more than one SBrick from within the same profile? Many thanks.
  8. WIP - SNCB/NMBS AM08 Desiro

    @Ashi Valkoinen Don't worry about the time it takes to reply. I'm sure we're all busy with our real lives outside of the hobby. I'm sure you know from your own experiences that design is always a question of compromise. If you decide to accentuate one detail it usually means that you have to sacrifice some other detail, so you always have to decide which details are most important and which you can do without. For every prototype there will be many many different ways of interpretation. The cab design for this MOC is still evolving as it moves slowly towards completion. I hope you will be pleased with the changes I'm making. Other areas too are being updated and altered, either to improve the appearance or to account for the availability of parts. I intend to build this model for real but I don't want to make my usual mistake of changing the design after the first BL orders have been placed. I'm interested about the new trans-black wall panels you mention. Is there a new part number for these?
  9. RE 460-084

    Lovely loco there. It could almost have been designed to be recreated in bricks. Nice too that it's just 6-wide. Great job on the stickers too.
  10. Is there a good way to "reverse" PF Train motors?

    The search facility can be a bit of a blunt tool if you don't use precisely the right search term. But thanks for reposting this thread. Maybe this is one (of many) that needs to be pinned for reference purposes. But to answer to OP's question, surely the easiest way to use a second motor without the expense of a polarity switch or modifying the motor itself would be to mount both motors facing the same way around so that they both run in the same direction. Admittedly it may mean you'll need an extension lead to make sure they both connect to the IR receiver, but that's cheaper and less bulky than the polarity switch. Also it may not be suitable if you're using one-piece train bases because of where the holes are for the cable runs, but if you're building your own base you can put the holes where you want them.
  11. WIP - SNCB/NMBS AM08 Desiro

    @Ashi Valkoinen Thanks for the advice and pointers. I've provided one train motor at one end but it wouldn't be difficult to add a second one at the other end too to help it around. I was intending to use an SBrick that I've hidden inside the roof rather than an IR receiver which I think will deliver sufficient grunt. I didn't want to use window panels because, although slender, the Desiro ML does have black window frames, but I do take your point about the cost and availability of the parts I've used in the LDD file and will probably substitute them for something else. It may not appear so from the prototype photo I posted for comparison, but the front profile of the Desiro ML is curved rather than slanted and the SNCB/NMBS livery follows those curves up to the roof. There is meant to be a narrow pale grey strip between the black panel surrounding the cab window and the darker grey stripe that runs up to the roof, which is the part that's missing so far. I'm not very experienced with SNOT techniques so I might not be heading in the direction you were thinking, but I have revised the design around the cab slightly to deal with the gap. Not sure if this is any better.
  12. WIP - SNCB/NMBS AM08 Desiro

    Thanks guys. I'm glad you're liking it too. I fear you may be right about the diameter of the hose, especially as there is a void inside the larger outer arch. I did wonder about threading Technic half bushes onto a flexible axle cut to length, but I guess I shall just have to experiment. It does strike me as slightly weird that there appears to be one size of arch missing from the sequence. Maybe someone somewhere has come up with a custom part to fill the void, if you'll forgive the pun.
  13. Missing Arches

    Seems like there's an arch missing. How do I fill that gap? Is there no custom part?
  14. WIP - SNCB/NMBS AM08 Desiro

    Well, I figure that using LDD is free so I'm not bankrupt yet. However, I have decided to dip a toe into the world of "proper" LEGO trains by knocking up this 8-wide rendering of an SNCB/NMBS AM08 Desiro passenger train. These EMU trains can be seen operating throughout Belgium on local and intercity services and are among the most modern passenger trains used by this operator. NMBS SNCB Desiro 08209 Zichem 01082016 by W Daelmans, on Flickr So far I've only got as far as designing the train in LDD but, unlike my earlier Desiro UK, this one is both buildable and intended to be powered. I wanted to make this model to scale, which is why it looks excessively long by LEGO train standards. I took the formula of 1 stud = 15 inches to arrive at a total length of 210 studs. I appreciate that this might make it difficult to operate on anything other than the widest of ME Models radii, but I'm taking looks over operation as my starting point. It would be possible to reduce the length somewhat if necessary, but I'm hoping to avoid that if at all possible. There is a gap between the black and dark bley arches at present because no brick exists that will fill that gap, or at least not on the LDD palette. The intention is to use a length of light bley pneumatic hose instead. Thoughts, comments and reactions are welcomed, especially as this will be my first venture into full-size LEGO train construction.