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Zerobricks

Eurobricks Archdukes
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Everything posted by Zerobricks

  1. I noticed this issue a lot too. From what I know the models for photoshoots are built by a different group of people (not the deisgners) and many, many times they mess up... But I can imagine they have to take photos of a lot of models (like 1000/year) and that they don't really have much time to do reshoots.
  2. Wow, you sure put a lot of effort not only in the model itself, but the presentation, really top notch stuff, Viktor. The fact you managed to pull this off and even came up with a 2 in 1 mechanism for the tow is simply brilliant. Well done, it deserves a feature.
  3. Wow, black and yellow looks really great, sounds like you're having a lot of fun with it! Thanks for the praise and constructive criticism. Regarding instructions steps, I tried to correct the views, but my Studio just goes a bit wonky and changes all the views... Seems to be a bug, so I will see what I can do.
  4. Great idea, can't wait to see how it comes out!
  5. So if I understand ocrrectly, the rear suspension centers and well...suspends the rear axle? Also there 5L axle with stop in the rear is not placed correctly in .io, it can't have the stop part inside the gearbox element, it has to be another 5,5 L one.
  6. Agreed, I'd use a 5,5 axle on the driven side too - it's symmetrical and most fixed solution.
  7. Unofrtunately the micro panels, 3x13 curved panels, fenders are not available in dark bluish gray, so I had to improvise. Thanks, the rings are a plate high (3,2 mm).
  8. Those would be way too big for this vehicle. I think minifigs are a better fit in this particular case.
  9. There is some slack, but since it's a direct drive from the motor I'd dare to say it's lower than if there was a diff and a couple of gears between the wheels and motor.
  10. Better clutch power, since the whole axle passes through the part. You have to realize axles are rounded, reducing their effective clutch power + a stop reduces the already low usable length by 0,8 mm. Same reason wheels are almost always attached to "too long" axles.
  11. Thanks everyone for the praise, I found time to take more pictures to show more details. I actually modified the reference .STL file in blender in order to remove geometry from the driver's side door, so I could see interior better. I'm really happy how well the steering wheel, center console and displays match the reference: The bucket seats, primarly made out pf panels also very closely match the position and angle, they really are almost touching the rear wheels: And here's a better view of the powerline, it was a real challenge to fit everything inot the limited space, the rear suspension is actually a stud lower than the front to fit the motors under the roof: Thank you. Originally I used the 80627 and 80628 panels which match the curvature better, but they are way too wide, causing the entire spoiler to stick out too much at the sides, as seen at the prototype picture: No snow yet here, so as soon as there's time I will of course record the video
  12. I would flip and move the 15 stud flip flop beams one stud forward so that you get a better attachment point. Other than that, good job!
  13. Here's a fun little project I came up with while trying to find a way to build the smallest AWD model with independent suspension. Having found a solution I decided to build a representation of the awesome Audi S1 e-tron using a 3D STL file purchased online. I set myself the following functionality and features as goals: All Wheel Drive Proper independent suspension on all wheels Each wheel powered by one BW motor Working steering wheel Detailed interior with proper seats and details Easy access to the 2 BW bricks powering and controlling the model Deisgn the body to be accurate to the 3D reference, yet robust Part count of 1200 or less With the goals set, I came up wih this prototype in LDD: The next photo is showing just how close the model is following the reference 3D model in green: And here's the model in real life, built out of exactly 1200 pieces: I took full advantage of the new micro panels, so there are almost no flat/straight surfaces in the model: Finally the belly photo showing how I used brick-built CV joints in order to keep suspension and drive system as narrow as possible. And yes, those are rings from LOTR sets I will post better photos and a video as usual when I find the time. For now I can say that this thing has a really high power-to-weigh ratio and it can easily spin all wheels when accelerating.
  14. The thing you want to protect has to be connected to the axlehole of the clutch gear. Using the clutch gear as a transfer gear to a function without it actually driving the axle eliminates it's safety usage.
  15. Well spotted. Though I think the prototype was in a different color, probably red and got recolored into blue.
  16. As a hardcore MOC-er, I would usually just builkd the A model for a ew days/weeks and than reuse the parts, so I would very rarely built the B models. When I did, noticed that their quality varied a lot, I would dare say it depended a lot on the designer and the efforts they would go. Sometimes A models would have extra parts randomly placed inside them just to be used for B model, which for me was a sign of a good quality B model and commitment.
  17. Current limits have been out for several months, I think for some half a year now. Controller support is currently in beta, yes, but it will be released in public version as soon as buttons and speed modes are also implemented.
  18. I think 42056 would have looked cool and more accurate in it.
  19. Pretty sure the knob gear was originally designed for a different model and only used here because it's a cleaner solution. IMO the grapler would work with normal 16 gears too, though with a 11,25 degree offset.
  20. They have also been black in the Batcycle. The more colors, the better
  21. As mentioned many times before, the battery has an integrated protection and it will turn off when triggered. The battery protection will trigger when the current consumption is too high (over 7A) or if the voltage drops too low. Now there are many conditions which can cause these things to happen, mostly when consuming a lot of power, but cold temperatures can cause the battery to shutdown sooner. From my personal experience, cold temperatures require more current limitations/gentler play due to 2 reasons: First, as usual the batteries perform worse due to their nature Secondly the resistance of all the motors are lower (unitl warmed up) causing higher current consumption Again, I would recommend lowering the current limiter values. I would also like to mention that ever since the current limiters were implemented, this issue was more or less solved for most users.
  22. Motor is manually controlled, so no need to hold the control once shifted. It only takes a second to shift.
  23. You can easily limit the power going to the motor using Power Curves/Current Limits in the BuWizz app.
  24. This has got to be one of the most detailed and complete Technic sets so far. The designer really used a nice mix of studless and studded parts. Also nice to see 28 tooth gears in yellow and more Daytona diff parts.
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