Junpei

I thought I should be prepared in case that I need one of weavil's custom u-joints, so I was trying to think of a way to take apart the u-joints without damaging them in any way. For the newer 3l joints, I put 5l axles in both ends, and a technic rotor blade on one side and a 20t DB gear on the other. I held the rotor blade firmly so it would not move and then twisted the 20t gear on the other axle, and it came apart before any of the parts got warped or destroyed. However, when I tried it on the 4l u-joint, it put up enough resistance that I permanently twisted the axle and even worse, I got this: And it was light bluish grey too... That's the "fixed up version", I had to search around for half of the axle connector that flew off and just put and axle in and rubber banded it together. So I was just wondering if anyone knows a safe way to take apart 4l u-joints without developing cracks in them.

Besides the pulley wheel and the fan, can you see anything else moving in the engine? BTW you should use a 71427 motor for the engine, it spins at 2200-something RPM!

What is lego saying? None of the wheels are driven at all!

It's not a poor man's 9398, the wheels are 81.6 x 38R. Great review indeed! Seriously though, you shouldn't drop any kind of lego from 6m!

Great job motorising it! May I ask you why you used silver champion wheels? Edit: Besides all the PF, are all the parts from 42000 (besides the rear wheels of course) ?

I think the terrain leveler would be a great and original Technic set (even though it's yellow ) and could really bring back pneumatics.

I think that would be a great idea, especially if they keep the orange color scheme. Hope Lego brings back pneumatics soon too. I am kind of seeing that truck with these wheels, but I guess it could be unimog wheels. I think however the functions listed could be fit into a scale model of the dump truck with the wheels I suggested before. I think your idea could work and perfectly combines LA's and pneumatics.

That's pretty fast with the rc motors integrated. Looks great too. How on earth did you get that Eiffel Tower set?!

Nope, you can see in the pic of the bottom that it is a solid axle.

Interesting MOC with great looks, first time I've seen Monster Fighters and Technic. What about tire covers for the front or rear wheels?

Amazing job on a c-model! I have no idea where you people get the inspiration to just start building, when I try to build a c-model with a set I end up with an ugly lump of parts and more extra than I have used That is just gorgeous, it even has panels and everything! Great job Paul_B!

If it does not get released soon there will probably be a price drop in the l-motor anyway because of 42009 but the cost of the servo and v2 will most likely be the same. I still don't have any of the 9398's pf parts yet...

Is that axle hole with friction (in the rc unit, picture #1) the output of a motor built into the unit for steering?

Fifty points for Gryffindor! I really love the model-team style and the pneumatics in the trailer. I think the front mudguard could use some cheese slopes though. Then again, model team doesn't use cheese slopes... Also are any of the wheels on the truck suspended? Just a single off topic question, does anyone know when cheese slopes were first used?

Oh well have you ever heard of buckyballs? They seem like they might be good for motor magnets, but I guess you already have the actual motor-shaped ones.

@Kwon It is a custom converter cable he made himself, you can see the red heat shrink tubing. He used the 2 middle pf wires instead of the 2 9v wires in this. Edit: Sorry KopMaister posted while I was typing.

I have been interested a lot in the flex system lately and have been reading about it a lot. It seems very useful, but unfortunately I do not have any. The one major problem that the flex system is too flexy and most of all too weak. It is merely a great idea that has not reached its full potential, but the coolest thing made with the flex system is Marvin G.'s 1:7 scale super car IMHO. The braking push-pull system is ingenious, but if it was motorized by say a pf motor, the flex system would not be able to handle the torque, but a linkage even with 1 x 6 or 1 x 9 links is much less realistic. So I am proposing metal flex cables for many uses including steering, braking, etc. They would probably be relatively easy to make (or even find at Lowe's) and would be much cheaper than the discontinued plastic ones, so the only real expense would be the connectors which are much less expensive. I wish Lego had more spur gear sizes though, I want to make a trail bike with working gear shifting and brakes like this. I think this would be a perfect use for the flex system and just wish the cables could be stronger. Sound like a good idea? Please feel free to post comments and criticism, and just hope Lego is reading this!

So let me get this straight. You are using a geared down m-motor to slowly turn the speed dial on the rechargeable battery to slowly accelerate. If that is the case it will look really cool because when the m-motor makes the battery box output give more power and the motor is connected to the battery the motor that is turning the speed dial will slowly increase its own speed making the speed dial move faster and eventually get to the highest setting very realistically. If you are worried about damaging the parts, you can use a 24t clutch gear or this gear block to gear it down and slip when the torque on it is maxed out however if you do not want a horrendous loud clicking noise like from LA's from the gear block's clutch you need to use a 24t clutch gear as they are not very loud, but I think unless the output of the gear block has an 8t gear powering the 24t clutch gear the gear block will slip first. However the gear block has a very large gear reduction (20x) and I do not know which speed you want, you can always figure it out by measuring the rpm of the motor and using Sariel's gear ratio calculator. I am not sure what you can do from preventing the motor from running after the speed dial has finished turning though, it seems like it would just be a waste of power without a mechanism to stop it. If you put a 3l axle in the speed dial, put the driving gear in the middle, and put an engine crankshaft center on the end you could make a linkage to a pf switch connected to only the motor used for moving the speed dial with a 1x2 liftarm with axle and pin hole and a beam to link the cranks. That .5 stud to 1 stud linkage will give you a 45 degree angle with the pf switch therefore turning the motor off and effectively not wasting power at all. So never mind I think that will work, ignore that one sentence. Sorry for the long post and run on sentences, hope this helps.

@chorlton Are you talking about buckyballs? I actually have one of the cubes of 216 at home, they are very powerful. I broke my DS lite with them. They are round, so might not fit well in an xl motor casing, but you can buy them on that site, even though the legitimate site has been shut down. Edit: Sorry I didn't see that there were 4 pages, chorlton's comment is on page 2, and I can see now that BoxerLego is already using buckyballs. Those magnets in the plastic tub are buckyballs, right?

Wow that's an amazing solution for suspension, how the tandem axle suspension balances the pendular suspension so it doesn't fall over. It looks invincible! Are you going to have enough orange to make that dump truck? Edit: Never mind, if you make that it will probably be in a new color scheme (unless you have lots of money).

Well that would be too easy! How about using custom batteries and motors for RC Lego so there is no danger of overloading the motors and pf stuff? Edit: Also if the wheels are connected straight to the RC motor axles, there will be no danger of wearing out the Lego (except the tyres maybe).

What if the battery is modified? Can't be that hard to do, I just don't have one myself.

Sorry if this is already a topic, but I was looking at products on Lego education and found the solar and wind power set, with the e-motor. I see that the solar panel/wind turbine charge the battery, but I have no idea what the overall size of it and how long it takes to run out of charge. Does anybody have one and have some info on it? Just curious if it could be useful or can be used without the bulky power display piece.

Is it the same size as the phone battery in the monorail?

Will a 9v battery fit inside the two plates of this part?