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I'm hoping I've posted this in the most appropriate forum location. My son and I have been playing Garden Warfare quite a bit lately, and I've been a fan of PvZ for some time now, so I figured it was time to make some large scale lego versions of the characters. These are still a work in progress, and I've so far only built 4 out of the 8 playable classes (I'm just doing the base varients of each class, at least for now). So far I've built the Cactus and Sunflower for the plants, and the Foot Soldier and All Star for the zombies. I'm currently working on the Chomper plant. I will be re-doing the Footsoldier's gun as it's not very good. The Foot Soldier's body needs a bit of work also. Sunflower probably needs to be a little taller too. Zombie All-Star joins the PvZ team by Sam Wright, on Flickr Comments and suggestions are welcome. Thanks :-)
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General MOC-Discussion Ahoy! Ever felt like there's not enough general talk going on here about what matters most in these waters - MOCs? Ever got frustrated over a certain issue with a WIP that you could need help with? Ever thought about posting a WIP but didn't think it would deserve its own thread? Ever wanted to announce a huge, mind boggling, or simply your next project and ask your fellow EB members what they think about that idea? Or have you ever just felt the urge to tease everyone with a blurred picture of your creation or some facts about it before releasing it for good? Well, hesitate no further, this is the place for you! Use this thread as a vessel for all the otherwise unmentioned MOC related talk, use it to discuss sail sizes and capstan designs, ask for ideas, help others with their MOC issues and tease your fellow mateys... with pics of your creations, of course
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LEGO Sci-Fi universal WIP feedback thread. Do you have a Work In Progress (WIP) build that isn't working ? Do you have a problem that you can't just figure out how to get the look that you want? Did you create something but not sure how to use it? Do you want to help out a fellow builders? Then this this thread is for you! During the great EB oppsies of 2012, one of the discussions had off forums was the creation for a universal WIP thread that everyone could post what they were working on, this helps clean up the forums a bit, as well as provide a proper and centralized location where people could get some help on what they were working on. So EVERYONE post away! Throw in things you're working on and our esteemed Sci-Fi members will chime in and help you the best we can. I'll start! This was an attempt at a micro-ship / drone.... WIP micro ship drone thingy by Si-MOCs, on Flickr I've had this thing sitting on my desk for awhile, it had promise, but I just couldn't really get it to a point where I liked it. The idea was almost a bio-ship that felt a bit like armadillo armouring, with some asymmetrical striping. But it's kinda just a blob... Anyone got any ideas? or just scrap it? ...
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So it took me a little time to figure out what I would do for TC7. I'm still not sure, but at least I have a concept. Presenting the Boom-dozer My tc7 work in progress by Russell Murphy, on Flickr The basic concept is that the base stays the same, and the top transforms in some way to become a tank. Maybe the bulldozer arms could become some sort of armor. Who knows. Hopefully I'll figure it out. I've used the subtractor from Sariel's excellent unofficial lego technic builder guide (http://sariel.pl/201...-available-now/) as a base. My 42048 bulldozer and crawler have provided donor parts. Not sure which functions will be automated, except for propulsion. I think at this stage I'll be an enforcer, but depends on how far my white parts extend. I'll update as I get further. -
So I set out to make a smaller warship, similar in shape and size to the merchant ship that came with the Imperial Trading Post. The bow pieces in LDD are larger than the ones from the ship, though, so I wound up with a creation larger than anticipated. It doesn't quite seem right, though, and I'm curious as to whether anybody could help me figure out what's wrong?
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In a few days, I can make a 2-minute Brickfilm. In 10 weeks of summer, however... The Marvelous Spider-Man: Mysterious Origins Fall 2015 (Yes, I will make this) Can you figure out what 6.13.1964 means? -
Working on a new Brickfilm...
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This contraption imitates a spinning gyroscope-like structure. The left axle is driven and the right axle is attached to the frame. When the left axle rotates the outer ring, the right axle transfers rotation in opposite direction through the series of gears to the middle ring. The same principle is used to transfer rotation to the inner ring. What do you think about this idea? Will it work? Unfortunately I don't have so many connectors #3 right now, so I can't reproduce it in reality. However, I tested this idea with only one ring, and it worked. The idea described above resulted in a project of a large Technic spaceship which is currently in a WIP state. Updates: -
First attempt at a Town MOC; a well known convenience store. Because minifigures, like us, may very well crave for a hot dog and a beer at midnight. I don't have too many bricks so this was done the best way I could. Home-made stickers are a bit cheap but in the end they look not too bad to my eyes. I haven't finished the top as I still don't know if i try to make it modular or if i just let it on its own and give it a roof. It's open I started building more detailed air conditioners, but they looked less good to me than these good old fashioned printed bricks! The whole inside is pretty naive. I put many windows because i wanted to be able to see what's going on inside even when it will have a roof This gentleman looks spoilt for choice
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Hi all, Long time lurker, first time posting. I came out of the dark ages (15yrs +) last year, saw all the amazing trains I'd missed (damn Maersk and EN) and decided to try my hand at a MOC - The new(?) pieces on offer these days are amazing! The following is all made up btw, it's loosely based on real engines and a bit of the LEGO Lone range train thrown in "The Persian Blue Express is one of the fastest in it's class, with almost unmatched speed for it's pulling power. Shown here is the model T version, which was used to carry the King and Queen through the Great Western plains. Following it's retirement in 1910, it has since made a comeback in 2015 with passengers from the city wanting to experience the regalia and nostalgia of the past." - Longer story is also WIP WIP, CC welcome please. I have a black clips and gold clips version. I'm learning towards the gold, although I haven't got any of those in my collection, but may well be brick-linked tonight! I've managed to build one side in bricks, have ordered all the blue bits I'm missing. I've also order enough parts to make an Emerald night carriage, so I'll hock that up when the parts arrive, before designing my own. Black Clips: Gold Version: Front: Cab: LDraw version, sometimes easier to see: And finally in real life! I built it in brick first, and then went to LDD, where I made some changes along the way..... I like the LDD file better than the brick built version now! The PF are in the tender, and it works well going round the track. (not with those Blue pegs though, annoying friction) - The T.C.R.R is from the Lone Ranger, I've yet to print my own stickers! Can anyone tell me how long the Engine of the EN is please? Mine is exactly two straight pieces long. Thanks Dylan
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I have been wanting to build this locomotive for almost 8 years. It is a Reading T-1 Northern 4-8-4. It ran excursions for the Chessie System in 1977 and 1978. I first started designing it in MLCAD in late 2007. Since then I have redesigned it several times and even started building it in brick in 2011. However, I got stuck, became discouraged and didn't get too far. I have never built a large steam engine before so the thought of it was quite overwhelming because I knew it wouldn't be easy. On top of that, because all of the other great LEGO steam locomotives out there, I set my expectations very high for what I wanted it to look like. I am still far from being done after about two months work, but I am far enough along that I am finally ready to share. I have started working on the tender also, but it is a very rough draft right now. I don't claim very many techniques used as my own. I took inspiration from many other MOC's. Mostly Tony Sava for his #4449 Northern. A lot of the pilot truck and cylinder construction is based on his model. After serveral failed attempts trying to figure it out on my own, it was time for help. Here is picture of the real thing For fun I started a blog where I am going to document my LEGO builds. Right now there is a little history of the first 8 years I spent on this engine: John's Blog Thanks, John
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Hello! I’m not particularly proud of this Technic horror I’ve created, but I’d like to share it with you rather than keep it to myself, possibly forever. Shortly after I learned about (and supported) SBrick and MiniZip in KickStarter, I started dreaming of building powerful, compact MOCs using a new combo: PP3 NiMh battery + MiniZip + SBrick + 5292 RC Buggy Motor. This is my first attempt at it, now that Android SBrick app (1.3+) is finally usable Functions Drive: 2x 5292 RC Buggy Motor, each connected to a separate SBrick, each powered by a separate PP3 NiMh 250 mAh battery using MiniZip. Steering: PF Servo. Front suspension: independent, soft, long travel, with “fake” positive caster Rear suspension: solid axle, dragged (didn’t figure out how to do four-link) 4x Lego LED Still haven’t applied myself to learning proper bodywork, so designing my own was out of the question. I went for an easy, fairly plain one. No openable doors, bonnet or anything. I worked with these two photos and scaled for 62.4mm tires. Full size (> 1024px): 1, 2. Photos were made really quick, during a baby siesta (indoor) and in short incursions (outdoors) no more than 20 meters from home. For now, I can only dream of having more time and freedom for this :D v0.99 without stickers: v1.0 with stickers based on video: Old school navigator refused to deal with GPS and computers, wanted just a compass (70001pb02) and a map with an X that marks the spot. Smart dude, run off with the loot. Very short of creativity and sleep, the only alternative I could think of to get rid of the demonic Monster logo and brand was a rather lame one: Music Energy. Example diff: I asked friends to vote in G+ and 3 out of 4 prefer Music, but the one who prefers Monster is my the only one into LEGO. I’m divided, will probably print them and try them on, but still not sure which ones to use for filming. I started with 1 battery, 1 SBrick, 2 motors. It seemed to run well. Adding an extra battery and Sbrick seems to make it run even stronger / faster, although SBrick developer Zsolt Majoros said it shouldn’t matter. The real reason I added the extra SBrick is that “2 ports 1 function” only works in Android app when those 2 ports are on separate SBricks. You may ask why use PP3 batteries instead of the acclaimed LiPo batteries… mainly because they are expensive, and a bit of a lottery with their thermal protection. MiniZip + PP3 NiMh 250 mAh wasn’t a whole lot cheaper, but the combo is certainly more compact, half the weight and doesn’t have any thermal protection. SBricks can draw as much current as the motors want, with just a small risk of overheating and possibly catching on fire… ah well, what could possibly go wrong? I haven’t actually managed to make the batteries warm up, they get warmer when charging. One likely reason for not achieving hotness is short life, according to this battery life calculator, they’d last 3.5 minutes at 3 A, 10 minutes at 1 A, 20 minutes at 500 mA. Can someone make a better-informed / estimation of a more realistic battery life? But there are more and worse problems, for which I sure can do with your advice! Caster angle is fake, isn’t? I mean, I just shifted the upper A arms a half stud backwards, but both A arms still move vertically. I think this is why big bumps will throw the truck’s front up rather than only the front wheel/s going up. When hitting a big bump with a front wheel, the wheel will thrust up and with it the whole car will roll to the opposite side. This results in a raised rear wheel taking all torque to just spin in the air, so the car stops until the raised wheel hits the ground again. Shifting the upper A arms a half stud backwards messed with the steering geometry, so now there’s a not-so-slight bump steering. I think this, combined with the twisting effect on the solid axle, is what’s causing the truck to steer to the left when accelerating. Too bad. Motors are hard coupled on their fast output and then geared down 20:12 twice, not including the 20-tooth to differential connection. Maybe I could / should gear down 20:12 only once, haven’t had a chance to try yet. I suppose integrating the motors in the rear axle and connecting wheels directly to them would help with the last couple of problems, but couldn’t figure out how to fit that in this body just yet. I’m also concerned that if one battery drains faster, the motor (no longer) powered by it will get damaged. With each rear wheel directly on one motor, that would result in the truck going in circles, but motors wouldn’t get damaged. How bad is this? Steering with SBrick (v1.3) as a significant latency, in the time it takes from the moment I slide my finger to a side (much or little) to the moment when the PF Servo starts moving, the truck is already going the wrong way. It’s really hard to drive straight. rm8, what’s your experience regarding this latency with your Double Trouble? If anyone has not seen rm8’s Double Trouble, I’ll put it as “my dream, properly done” Thank you for reading. If you were looking for a video... EDIT(25.05.2015): slightly better pics. EDIT(26.09.2015): I’m now a little more proud of my creation, at least the suspension seems right to me: it’s long travel and soft enough to reacts promptly to bumps, but the car doesn’t sink too much on it. I dare say it works better than most others, probably because it’s much harder to this the a bigger scale most others have been working with. The car is still not really fast, so I didn’t bother measuring its speed. I did try putting less reduction in the drivetrain, but that only resulted in lower speed due to lower torque, so I reverted back to my original setup. It’s still fast enough to be impossible to drive well, specially with the terrible latency in the SBrick. Latency is not a problem with the port tester, so it doesn’t look like a hardware limitation. Anyway, it’s fast enough to be fun. Thanks to Sir Wolf’s help and support, we finally have a somewhat decent video. Enjoy! :) And we learned many things the hard way: by failing. Fake caster angle is not good, you need real caster for off-road racing. I took the idea from someone’s supercar project here (sorry, couldn’t find it again) to displace the upper suspension arm by ½ stud backwards from the lower arm (see belly shot above). That gives you quite a bit of caster angle on the wheel (or snowmobile skies) but it does not help reacting promptly to the most serious bumps. It also screws the geometry in that the gear rack should ideally be ¼ stud backwards, but it’s either 0, ½ or 1. This results in notorious bump steering: front wheels are toes out when suspension is fully extended, and toes in when fully compressed. When this adds to the torsion exerted by the powerful motors on the live axle (see in the video how left front wheel jumps up when car starts). All in all: bad Idea. Portal hubs from 8070 are not good for off-road racing, I should have used the ones from the snowmobile 42021 (2015). They are also too expensive to go on dirt with them, so I didn’t. Differential slows down or even stops the car when one rear wheel take off. I knew this was a problem with crawlers, but never imagined how bad it’d be on a trophy truck. Damn it, I’ll never do this again. Just use one motor per wheel, and accept that if one motor runs out of battery or losses signal, you might take a sharp turn or find yourself driving in circles for a little, depending how the front wheels cope with the imbalance. MiniZip are great to get “buggy-motor-grade” power in a smaller size than LiPo batteries. PPA 9V batteries can fit a width of 3 studs, so a 5x11 panel makes for a perfect home. However, MiniZip’s lack of power switch in makes it a complete hassle to replace batteries. Should keep them very easily accessible. -
It has been a while… Some of you know me from my previous layout. This layout has been taken apart and the new version is now under construction. I made my plans for this new layout early March. Planning by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr A big thank you to scruffulous for the BlueBrick files he sent me once. I had a small list of things I really wanted to have in my layout: - long or large curves as described by Railbricks and Cale Leiphart. - a turntable, better looking and functioning than my previous design - it has to be modular for easy transport - it has to connect properly to the other layout builders at LowLUG. I first laid the basplate and added track to see if my idea actually fitted, it did! Next where some tiles to mark the edge of the areas which should be tiled to support the track: Then the fun really began, building actual modules: Layout V5.0 work in progress 8-4-15 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Layout V5.0 work in progress 9-4-15 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Work in Progress update 13-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr After a couple of days building I made a start with the turntable: Some more foundations and landscaping Update 20-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr And this is the current state of progress: Work in Progress update 21-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Work in Progress update 21-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr I will try to add updates every time I added something.
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Hi all, I just wanted to start this topic to let everyone know about a project that has been on my mind for quite a while now and is slowly starting to come to fruition. While I love the Fire Brigade and it has served me well since I first bought it, it does suffer from a lack of space for modern fire engines. I bit the bullet ages ago and bought a second Fire Brigade to add another garage and for an assortment of spare parts but now I've outgrown the two garages. Since I'm moving house I figured it'd be a good time to start from scratch so I've chosen the City of Sydney Fire Station as my reference building and here's my progress. While there's still a lot of work to go, I have a solid plan for what the ground floor layout of the building will be, and will try and get the facade as close to the real building as possible, although I have left out a large section of the original building to try and save a bit of space. The masonry side will be access to the upper floors, a room for the firesuits, the mandatory fire pole, as well as two bays for fire engines. The newer section on the right will house three fire engines side by side as well as some smaller support and logistics vehicles behind. My fire engines have been getting updates for the new facilities as well, with a permanent fleet of two pumpers, one rescue pumper, one heavy rescue, one aerial and one small vehicle planned to take residence in the station. The Scania chassis will make up the brunt of the stations responses, with two vehicles as pumpers and one as a rescue pumper. The basic truck features seating for four firefighters, with three of them being able to wear breathing apparatus in the cab on the way to calls. These three trucks will be almost identical on the outside but will have different loads in in the back to suit their allocation. The Isuzu is fitted out with pneumatic tools for responding to structural or vehicle accidents where a minifig may need to be cut out. Since this is a rescue unit, the two firefighters don't have a need for breathing apparatus or full firesuits so the cab is a little bit less crowded than the other trucks. The Duty Commanders vehicle is for providing quick responses to calls for the supervisor and is built on my standard SUV base. It has room for one minifig driver with a full breathing apparatus set and a small assortment of tools in the boot. A new aerial apparatus is still on the drawing boards, which will be more accurate compared to the previous incarnations. The biggest hassle is trying to get a functional and realistic boom and outrigger system into a City scaled vehicle. Comments, criticism and questions are welcome, and keep an eye out for updates.
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This is my secret project WIP for TC6. This is not a joke, construction is almost complete. I'm just waiting for some additional parts to arrive because I don't want to show incomplete work. You may ask "Why creating a topic then?" - So you could expect one more TC6 entry of course ! While I'm getting camera and parts I will update this thread with some info. Here's something to start: Technical specifications: 2 RC units 2 M-motors 1 L-motor 1 Servo-motor Manual gearbox. 7-9 functions. Some awesome lights. Maybe pew pew pew capabilities, dunno yet. To keep you interested I made a comics about the creation of this MOC. Enjoy. -
Note: This thread will be used as a "blog" on the development of this piece of fanfiction. If you want to keep posted on the story's development, subscribe! As danger threatens to befall upon the city once more, the race is on to retrieve the mysterious relic, and hopefully keep the city’s equilibrium as ever constant as usual. For this, the people of Lan-ra call upon three Toa warriors, one from each of the three levels of the city, to work together and find the relic. But with their individual ideas of what the relic must be and what it is for, can these elemental masters truly hold a bond of unity? -------------------------------------------------------------------- Legend of the Hidden Relic is a piece of Bionicle fanfiction I am currently working on. Set in a universe seperate to the first and second official generations of Bionicle, LotHR follows the adventure of three brave Toa in their quest to retrieve a mysterious artefact that will protect their world. But, the separate motivations of these Toa may cause some difficulty in their journey... The story is still currently a work in progress. I shall keep you all posted on my progress as I write new content, by posting to this thread. Enjoy!~ -------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1. DEVELOPMENT NOTES 2. PROLOGUE (WIP)
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Hi! This is my first post. I am building a tatra t813 kolos, it has leaf spring suspension, planetary wheels. Some pics
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Hello all. This is my first "real" post here on EB. A few days ago I started something a little out of the ordinary for me. For months I've been trying to model the American Suburban home. Always unsuccessfully for one main reason. Lack of parts... So I finally decided to have a go in LDD. Here are some pictures of what it looks like so far: Suburban home 1st floor WIP (1) by alexb420, on Flickr Suburban home 1st floor WIP (2) by alexb420, on Flickr Suburban home 1st floor WIP (3) by alexb420, on Flickr I'm running out of materials for flooring. What are some other flooring options? Feedback and constructive criticism is much appreciated!
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Hello Castle builders, I am primary Technic builder, but I love all you guys do here in castle forums. Hence, I thought what if I could build, let's say, watchtower, from Technic pieces? So this thought has been following me long, but I haven't found time, to give it a decent time. On the other hand I haven't seen it done before, please correct me if I'm wrong. I see that with my pace, it'll take ages, till I get to smthn decent, also, this technique is a lot slower than just stacking bricks, so I made few pics of this WIP project, so maybe someone can have it for inspiration and give it a proper try. I have bunch of ideas, how to make windows, how to connect pieces to regular baseplates etc. I hope I'll manage a proper Technic-Castle tower someday. Here is picture from WIP watchtower (I'll probably need to make base in smaller scale, as I'm noob castle builder): And second so you see, that you can make decent curves with Technic pieces. And here's a thought I got like half an hour ago - how to make a different base connection to build the wall around, as well as using axles for inner strength of the structure. Comments welcome. BR, Lauris
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hi to all! this will be my entry for the TC6! I hope I success to build it as I want and I don't fail to build this MOC, it is a truck took from the videogame Motorstorm:pacific rift, I want to test my ability with my first scaled MOC and also, as I love to do, putting some strange and complex functions into a small creation :3 those are the four function that I've planned: -1 buggy motor for drive (4x4 with two differential) -1 M motor fot 2 speed gearbox -1 servo motor for fron wheel steering and.... -1 L/XL motor for boost function, with overcharge system (it is reallly difficult to build into that creation) the points where I'm focused are: -make a reliable chassis with 4 link suspension similar to the molotov baikal one (the "real" type of suspension is impossible to build due to the start from a videogame, it doesn't respect all the physics rules ahahah) - make a llimited-lifetime boost function (automatic slow recharge) like the game, with a brake function if it is overloaded (in motorstorm cars explode but I can't replicate that :'( ) -finish this moc D: i'm not an expert builder but I love if someone could restart this project after my try those are some pics of the molotov baikal, i have to built it in yellow and with gray wheels but i hope to make some stickers for the black and red painting photo took with the in-game photo mode this is my first try for the chassis, unfortunately I don't have 4 9m uniball link but it looks more similar to the molotov baikal system i've made some improvements and also tested the gearbox that works quite well, i'm only worried about the boost system and the truck cockpit suggestions, impressions and critics are welcome! -
Hi everyone! So, during christmas I had a lot of free time and decided it's time for another attempt at build a supercar. I've chosen Lancia Beta Monte Carlo. Mainly because the body is not round. Well, at least not very round and the car looks good. Let's get to the technical details: - The engine is on the back, and it has a rear wheel drive. It's R4 engine (4 cylinders in a row) mounted crosswise. - McPhersson suspension on both axles. - 5+R gearbox - aaaand.. nothing more out of the ordinary What I'd like to have in it is: - Full independent suspension, of course McPhersson (with at least little geometry) - Full RC - at least 3+R gearbox - fake R4 engine mounted crosswise (that would look cool) Now, my hands made this thingy : Some commentary is needed. It's full RC, as you can see. It drives pretty neatly with two L motors, but skips one tooth in some gear at third gear (only one! and only when driving forward). Also it's Piterx's desing (http://p-lego.blogspot.com/2013/01/lego-rc-sequential-gearbox-3r.html). It's small, compact and functional. I'd like to see it with Servo Motor, because it's easy to miss gears... A bit of research (first result on google ) led to this beast http://www.doublebrick.ru/blogs/jackson/4-h-stupenchataya , but I'd have to order some parts to assemble it. It's a bit smaller than Piterx's and there is nothing sliding out of gearbox. Also, Servo This may even make some space for, now absent, fake engine. The suspensions is a combination of nicjasno's McPhersson and Sheepo's MPS. The second battery pack is a bit redundant, but I just couldn't fit one in, to have a symmetry. They have to be disassembled, because they take space where chairs should be I'd like to fit one on the back, but it's too tall.. Same problems on front. That's something to think about, and experiment. The chassis falls a bit short on stiffness, but a good bodywork should fix it. If anyone have an idea how I could make this gearbox and engines more compact, feel free to comment! I'd like to hear what you think about it -
Hello All This is the progress of my entry for TC6. I planned on making a 4wd supercar in late december, but I had no plans to enter TC6 due to the vast amount of high quality entries. But then I realized when I was building the Huracan that it complied with the rules and regulations for TC6 and thus decided to enter. I have read the rules and regulations for TC6 with extreme care, and in that the car has 4 motors, 4 motorized functions and 4 outputs of the IR receiver. So hear are the elements of the car I'm building. * 1 XL motor for drive (originally I always put at least 2 XL motors in any of my supercar mocs but the 4wd drivetrain in this moc was so productive and clever with the XL motor usage, that the gearbox manages to even triple the amount of torque of 1 Xl motor in first gear, and double the torque of 1 XL motor for second gear, uses the same equal amount of torque in third gear but in fourth gear it produces the same torque as an L motor.) * 1 Servo motor for steering * 1 M motor for the primary gear selector * 1 M motor for the secondary gear selector The car uses a Sariel gearbox which I discovered was brilliant for 4wd cars (the car can still perform as well with 1 L motor!), it was frankly the best 4 speed gearbox I could find, and the most versatile because I might use it in an offroader one day, the car results in having 2 gear selectors but Sariel pioneered it so well without using the the standard lego gear collar format found in all gearboxes made by lego themselves. The gearbox collars always had a certain power delay or lag and that wasted torque during launches and gear changes and also makes the motors work harder than they should, but Sariel used a dual linear sequential format which makes the car more responsive during gear changes and launches and made everything instant and this helps the motors put less stress on them which makes the power usage more effective. Eurobricks won't allow me to post more pictures so In future posts I will send more pictures. But here is a link to a collection of the WIP pictures of this moc https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117883514691193486949/albums/6100970086868727953 The cars 10 cylinder arrangement will be flat instead of a V shape, because of limited space. I will be updating this topic as soon as significant progress is made, feel free to reply and suggest and methods for the body and interior, or any errors I have made. Once the car is complete, I will make a new final topic of the TC6 lamborghini huracan, were I will present a video and absolutely everything about the car. Thank you for viewing this topic LeocornoProductions -
I was fiddling about a week or so ago and decided to build a mini Imperial Class Star Destroyer and Victory Class Star Destroyer. They both feature in my exciting Shadow of Nal Eurbrikka introductory build that you can check out here if you so wish: Sacking of Clak'dor VII Back to the starships. I had a lot of difficult getting the triangular section beneath the engines without breaking the perpendicular line between both upper and bottom hulls. I decided the upper back triangle and engines were more important. If anyone had any suggestions please I would love them. I plan on also building an interdictor class and tartan patrol vessel to scale with these two. As usual all comments, critiques, and suggestions are welcome. If you wish to see more MOCS somewhat like these feel free to visit my Flickr Photostream Thanks for viewing
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Well, I've got a bunch of ideas and other random things, as I am building more often, so rather than make a dedicated thread for every off the cuff thing or proof of concept I turn out, I'm just going to compile it here. The first item is a proof of concept chassis for a Gottwald crane, which I meant to be an AK-912, but there are many different models that have a similar chassis, including the AMK-1000, and the AK-680. It's a WIP, but I have other projects I want to finish first, so I made this, and am currently working on an LDD file. Once that file is finished, this thing will be taken apart, so I can use the pieces for other projects, and once I am ready to give this my all, I will use the LDD file to rebuild it. Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr The model is meant to be like an official set, like 42043, meaning one motor, and no RC. The chassi has a V-12 engine, like the real thing, and 8 wheel drive, with a single middle differential. I found that given how far apart the axles are, a differential is required between the 2 sets of driven axles. The different angle between the steering axles is achieved by a diagonal beam, which is very effective. There is almost no backlash, and the axles are in sync automatically. Also, due to how it works, the axles are set to the correct angle relative to each other automatically, due to how it is built, without any calculations. Another picture of the front unit: Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr In addition, the chassis can be separated into three parts, like the real thing. Seperate by Saberwing007, on Flickr Although the steering on the front and rear units works well, it's connecting the two that has proven problematic. I blame lack of stiffness in the middle reversing linkage, and using friction pins for every steering connection. But, for now, this is finished. I will get back to it later, I don't know how much later, though. -
With the recent release of The Force Awakens, the seventh installment to the Star Wars Franchise (If you haven't heard of TFA, I wouldn't be surprised, almost no advertising and no merchandise was made for the movie), fans have been in love with the newest droid, BB-8. The new look to the droid caused many Lego builders to desire their own, and HenrikLego did just that. Totaling at nearly 11K pieces, Henrik built an enormous droid for a local theater of his, and even included the local community of AFOLs with an LDD file for it. His original topic for this MOC is here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=116949&st=0 After seeing it, I immediately wanted one of my own. After an incredibly long and difficult debate with my wallet, I decided to pursue my own BB-8. Using the LDD File, I generated a parts list for bricklink totaling 10,909 pieces. I looked over the parts needed for this and took note of some of the nuisances. White Brick 2 x 4 (1184 needed) - The part itself is not all that rare, but getting it in new condition (Getting White Bricks in used condition is a nightmare) in that quantity was a challenge. It ultimately ended up costing me 25 cents per brick. White Plate 1 x 2 (1385 needed) - Also very difficult to get in large quantities, but I managed to find it for about 10 cents per piece. White Plate 1 x 3 (527 needed) - It always seems like 1 x 3 plates are a pain to obtain, this was the case here. About 15 cents per piece. Orange Plate 1 x 8 (25 needed) - I did not imagine this piece being very rare, but I ended up placing about 5 orders for it, despite it being cheap. About 10 cents per piece. White Plate 4 x 10 (24 needed) - The large quantity drove the price way up. 48 cents per piece. White Plate 2 x 2 Corner (374 needed) - Once again a hard to find piece that I never would picture as rare. About 12.5 cents per piece. That rounds out the worst bricks and pieces for me, the rest are not very difficult to find, but prepare yourself for about 11 cents per piece, I optimized smaller amount of orders over saving a few cents per piece because shipping charges really drive up the final price. To date I am glad to say that I have ordered all 10,909 pieces, just waiting for them to arrive. However, I have not started designing a desert base for BB-8, I need to work on this ASAP. Once the pieces come in, I of course will have to count them (I am not looking forward to this at all, but more and more it seems that bricklink sellers don't have the ability to count) and check off that everything is in my possession, including parts for a base. I hope to keep you guys updated as much as possible throughout this process, but for now I need to explain to my wallet why an enormous chunk was taken out of it.
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