Junpei

OK thanks 1974 and Blakbird! I did kind of consider the few system parts in almost (probably all) technic sets, e.g. the dashboard for 9396. Without those in consideration, would it still be impossible to pick a set?

I was just wondering what the first technic set with only liftarms and stuff like that. I know that the 8437 Future Car is very close but does anyone know the first studless set was?

Nice rally truck, I expected it to go faster though. Maybe some R/C motors? The suspension in the rear is called trailing arm suspension BTW. Also, how did you get the slight camber on the front suspension? Are the pieces already like that?

SuperCow could you cut a hole in the switch (where the pivot point of the lever is), take off the micromotor pulley, and attach the motor axle directly to the lever pivot? Hopefully that was well explained. Edit: If you did that you could also cut off the lever part all together, making it the size of a 1x2x2 1/3 brick.

That actually exists, you know. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4760c01 I guess Paul has probably already figured that out by now, though.

Nice rally car! Is that m-motor out of alignment though?

It always bothered me that pendular suspension can only (?) work with rubber bands, and I really don't like rubber bands, I am not sure why, so when I coincidentally broke the seal on a pneumatic actuator, I made this: If there are two of them mounted on a pendular axle , when one compresses, the other one stretches. This allows one stud of travel both ways as the fully compressed spring takes up one stud: Fully extended: Does anyone think this is a good idea? I would like to have pendular suspension with shocks but the compressing and stretching shocks may just take too much space. Anyone feel free to add your opinions and criticism.

How about this? Or should the 3l axle be on one end so the steering radius is better? Since I am quite new to technic, I don't have any 6l steering arms (I haven't made a bl order yet) but they can be easily modified to be 4l.

I was looking at a store called Magicbricks and I found that there are really weird color parts that shouldn't exist e.g. a black universal joint and a trans-clear curved train rail! Does anybody know if Magicbricks has Lego molds and uses different plastics? Does anyone have experience with this store?

In place of that bushing behind the 20t gear you could put the axle through the second pinhole on this part and then attach it to the 5x11 frame via a 3l stop axle or axle pin. Edit: Even with this the gear should probably have some other type of bracing.

@Doc_Brown could you model a u-joint but with a 2l axle on one end and a 1.5l axle on the other?

I think there should be an axle u-joint with a 2l end and a 1.5l end so you could have 5l suspension arms :P That would make it 5l right? I didn't do the measurements.

I am pretty sure it is the other way around with the battery boxes, the AAA provide more power. I am going to remove the portal axles decreasing the overall width by 3 studs, but if I do that the only wheels that I think will fit around that are PP wheels. So I think I am going to make the whole vehicle itself without the wheels and just put it off until I have enough for PP wheels. Also, will skid steer work on a 6x6?

Sorry it has been 4 days, I just got out of school yesterday. Here are the pics: http://www.flickr.co...s/97116741@N05/ Edit: I am not sure if a standard TT wheel will fit around the whole thing if I remove the portal axle, but I will try if I order them. What am I going to do about the batteries? All 18 rechargeables will cost 100 dollars!

Wow amazing mosaic! You should have it as your EB avatar too.

Wow I've had that magic cube sitting on my shelf for half a year now, and I actually play around with it quite often.

Here are two pics: The suspension and the battery. 18 AAA batteries are going to cost a fortune! Damn the links don't work! I am creating a brickshelf now, sorry.

Wow! Sheepo's Tatra is amazing. But I actually have the motor as the swing-arm right now and am planning to make this without a drive-train. Edit: I guess Sheepo's Tatra only has 2 knob wheels per axle, I meant gearless.

I have finally decided to make a real technic MOC, I have made about 5 of them and they were all studded, disorganized and ended up not functioning and looking like crap at the same time (and they all had xl motors!), so I decided I wanted something fast but powerful but not to spend tons of money on RC motors and an RC unit, so I am building a Tatra 6x6 with an XL for every wheel. I know it depends on the overall weight of the vehicle, but I wanted to know if it would be powerful enough with the XL's ungeared driving standard truck trial (9398) wheels. My other question is what kind of shock absorber to use, but I will post pics and stuff tomorrow but I really have a ton of work to do tonight but just so you know I am using the usual swing-arm suspension with the pivot being the two pinholes in the back and the shocks are mounted on the front pinholes and I am using 6,5l shock absorbers and am not sure if there is enough travel although it looks like the camber is about right and sorry for the really really long run on sentence, i will be less busy tomorrow.

I bought 2 for £.32 (the new orange ones too).

http://www.brickset.com/brickLists/?5875

Well I am a technic builder and I think that the small actuators and motors would be really cool (if the motors have enough torque to do more than wheel something small around), but I have high hopes for the actuators considering their size and the fact that they can snap legos apart. The playstation controllers may be a little bulky to combine especially since they are not lego and do not have pin holes and studs for mounting, but the large number of buttons on the controllers could control a lot of different motors and actuators. I do also think that it would be fun to have something to drive around without spending tons of money on the ir and rc stuff. So I don't know about everyone else, but I think this is an amazing idea for both technic and non-technic builders alike, and the actuators and motors could also make a creation come to life e.g. a water wheel in a medieval town or a ship in a SW microbuild. All and all, I think this is one of lego's (and sony's) best ideas, and BrickG, they can probably be manipulated to be a childish toy or an advanced model.

@Eigenbroetler Thank you for the links, but I couldn't find any way to find the price or buy them (the one in the second link).

I am making a Tatra 6x6 with 6 XL motors, so I need a lot of power (more than the LiPo batteries provide), so I decided to use 3 AAA battery boxes, but that's 18 AAA batteries, and I don't want to waste that many. The best way I could get them was 20 of them with the chargers for about 75 usd, which is way too much, probably because I would need 5 chargers for the number of batteries. Does anyone know if there are larger chargers that can charge more than 12 batteries at once or somewhere to get them for a better price?

Well I'm not actually building a model with the white ones, but I am really not sure why they get bought up. And LEGO Historian, I would never even think of using spray paint. Sadly, I am a purist, so I just can't do that.