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agrof

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Everything posted by agrof

  1. agrof
    That is a quick growing MOC! Would the main arm work with 2 pcs 1x11 cylinders too? I have 4 of them, and if I overhaul my 42053, I would like to use them rather.
  2. agrof
    I agree, I should finish it! Your project looks like a good motivation. I have plenty pneumatics from a discount, nudge, nudge?
  3. agrof
    Ok, your turn.
  4. agrof
    Wow, that looks GOOD so far! Nice, clean design, exceptional working range!
  5. agrof
    Very good video, proper presentation of the functions thanks for sharing it! I especially like the Frogdog!
  6. agrof
    Thanks for the consultation @technic_addict! I was also surprised by this, that's why I thought it is worth to share here. I will not bother the enviroment just for a tiny piece of plastic, no need to spend fuel and energy about this issue. You know: fake problems.
  7. agrof
    Good news: I got fresh batteries! It can crawl! Bad news: now I see, that the gear bracketing is not good enough, the low batteries fed me with false confidence. Every help is welcome here, LDD file is available above for further analisys. What I figured out, that the 24t gear can move sideways, the brackets of it must be just beside. I will have to think about my life in a dark hidden cold and wet corner. I am sad. EDIT: I will test next this solution, but only tomorrow or later. There mst be a way to solve this. There is always a way.
  8. agrof
    Everything else is identical only the last numbers (2-01;3-01;4-01) I replaced in my previous post with dots (I guess those are the number of the nest in the mold).
  9. agrof
    Hmmm, I admit the steering link caused issue. The first part: I see now, correct, sorry for that. The second part: do You mean this part: ? I don't dig it, everything moves parallel in the A-arm, so the space inbetween should always be the same...
  10. agrof
    I join to this, fun MOD!
  11. agrof
    Just double checked the parts, they have the identical molding script (C2013LEGO - 18944 ...). There is only 2 differences, the darker one has a crack-like molding thingy in one of the rib, and I placed it opposite than the other 2. This also might cause the color deviation. All in all, I don't really mind, as these are on my crawler, and given the nature of these beasts, scratches expected. On the other hand: "Only the best is good enough."
  12. agrof
    Sure, it is a personal taste, no question about it, and this is the beauty of building LEGO. So, here are my quick thoughts: click for LXF. I would get rid of half beams / levers where possible, for sake of rigidity, I would use homogen parts rather. Too many parts = too many connections = too many small flex, inaccuracy in the system, which might cause saggy assemblies. You know this better than me, most probably. I see the point why You used half beams for the swingarm, but I think this version is also worth to test. I removed some parts, I would test so first, and see how the swingarm behaves. Also there is an alternative for the steering link - I don't know which is better, and I haven't calculated - I just rely on LDD here, it fits. Must be tested which connection method is more rigid. For the frame I can not add much at the time, as I don't know, which connection points are needed for the rest of the chassis / body. Sorry, I destroyed the beautiful group structure as I worked with more copies in the scene, lime parts are my suggestions (on the right side), magenta ones which I think can be removed (on the left side). I hope this gives constructive value to the project. Edit: I am in flow a bit, I made a 2nd version - just these parts added/replaced, due to stability at the springs hinge area, and to form brake caliper-like shape: Just checked the connection with this steering link - towball solution, there is some misplacement indeed, so does not fit to your philosophy. (For me it would, as Mr LDD - the great censor - allows it, and I am pretty sure it would work IRL too.) I am wondering, if the steering rack could be replaced with 7M version, I really like the tricks in the current version, just curious if it could work.
  13. agrof
    Bricklink - authorized dealer, with high positive rating.
  14. agrof
    Very-very cool C-model, again! I nominate You for the title: Master of 42054.
  15. agrof
    Not really, there is the shiny black and matt black applied for Lego parts. The panels are usually made with matt colors (surface is different), but that middle one in my MOC is rather coloured as shiny black, meanwhile having the same surface. I am not a molding expert, maybe someone has an explanation for this.
  16. agrof
    Looks nice, I am curious about real life stability. I admire the commitment to work 100% in system, but for me 0,06 stud distance is largely in tolerance. I would say it would matter only, if the real parts would be 100% rigid (which is bad, than they would break more easy - assumed to be made of affordable plastic material), and wouldn't have calculated tolerances. Maybe 0,1-0,2 does make a difference, but below that I would just gently pass by. I don't want to be a party smasher, it is just my opinion - I like to use the material properties (like elastic modulus), and following with great interest the mathematical aspect of building. EDIT: @Didumos69 I would like to ask, if You check in IRL build what parts can be removed without loosing structural rigidity? Sometimes it is easy to overengineer some solutions, without real added value, in return we get increased weight. In this build the weight is really critical, as it has significant influence on overall performance - for a manual model it is not an issue. To maximalize the effectiveness of the 4 L motors, I would double check everything to cut off the weight as much just possible. I had this experience that time with my Class 1, I would say, to revise and to find all unnecessary parts took almost the same time as building up the model first.
  17. agrof
    Strange, but I discovered another quality issue, this time with black (!!) 3x11 curved panels. All have the same mold details, but 1 is darker, it is clearly seen at most lightning conditions: Not good, LEGO, not good...
  18. agrof
    Nice presentation video - as usual from You, well, not an exciting set for me. For much detailed analysis (review) I am waiting for Sariel and Jim.
  19. agrof
    I agree, the second one is more coherent.
  20. agrof
    I think I finished the BEAST. Couple reinforcement was needed IRL, but the majority of the LDD model worked. Some might not like the chopped back, but it is part of the concept. I must say, the weight distribution is nice, let's say it is in centered. It ended up with 530 pieces, and 890 gramms (including batteries). I am not overly happy about the suspension responsiveness, but not bad given the constraints of LEGO. I will release the LXF file soon, just need to group it a bit, to give better understanding for the build sequences. Also, I plan to release the differential version too, geared up for speed - but no guarrantee for proper working, honestly: I have no mood to test it. LDD file can be found here. Pneumatic tube used: https://brickset.com/parts/6150237/pneumatic-tube-384mm TO DO: flip the lime green marked parts, and connect the springs in place. Pink marked part should be this: Though due to drained batteries +cold +hard tires I could not make a real test, but I took it to hike, and placed into some imaginary situations. HERE you can find bunch more pictures, enjoy! Frankly, I am winking now towards RC crawling, with real play fun...
  21. agrof
    I have ambivalent feelings: 1. It is a bus. 2. It is awesome!
  22. agrof
    @Aventador2004 Thanks, now I can even more admire this beauty!
  23. agrof
    Didn't notice that yet, thanks for the information!
  24. agrof
    Piece of art, I like that it manual, nice details everywhere. Hat off Sir! A question, as I am not petrolhead in depth: why does the 4 wheel steering work like that? In 4th gear (highest speed) why is there crab steering? Is it like on the real cars?
  25. agrof
    I don't see why would it be different as in the pictures, the width of all components are the same as the crossblock. I figured out, how to reinforce the lower pivot point of the front swingarms, now it works fine. Unfortunately I can not adjust properly the springs, I tried all possible configurations (soft-compressed; hard - compressed/not compressed; extra hard - non compressed), it is not bad, just a tad harder than I would prefer. Also the rear axle must be stabilized against torque twist. Other than that, not too bad. Thanks for poor light: lost and found footage is below.
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