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nicjasno

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by nicjasno

  1. In which direction does this thing go? Are the big wheel in the front or the small wheels? How does the steering work?
  2. I'm not trying to do that. But in order to be technically interesting, the cars need to have at least some form of complexity (suspension/steering/brakes). In an ideal situation, what kind of speeds do you reckon a lightweight e-racecar could achieve?
  3. I was also considering a formula car chasis with an electric drivetrain for a racing series. But the slowness of lego electric engines and the short lifespan of batteries are serious limitations.
  4. It's just an idea for a rotating pneumatic valve. It needs work. But i guess one could find off the shelf o-ring seals and design a groove into the rotor or housing where they'd sit and seal on each side of the rotor. But i don't know how to seal the circumference.
  5. Would it be possible to adapt this into a 3d printed model? It's a rotational pneumatic valve. Needs some work and simplification. I have designed this in a pre-3d printing era, so it needs to be reengineered to use as little material as possible and be smaller.
  6. I am at the ring every year in the beginning of august. Was there from the 11th to 15th of august this year :) Pics from this year:
  7. Use silicone lubricant like i do in my engines and it wont wear out.
  8. Old bricks from the 80s and 90s do crack. Especially light gray half bushes, bushes, connectors, universal joints and gears. Those just loved to crack due to the brittle plastic. And don't get me started on old light gray pneumatic switches... Modern lego is of very good quality if you ask me.
  9. One can not see anything on those small images.
  10. Keep them lubricated. They have too much friction and slack. The combination together with drops from higher elevations can break either the rotor or a ball joint can snap off of the hub. Happened to me aswell.
  11. Maybe a fake i6 that just looks the part and an electric motor setup hidden underneath.
  12. I'm aware of them and have made engines with them. But i'll try to make an electric drivetrain, to make the car fully r/c. Maybe with a 2 speed automatic gearbox.
  13. I see the problem now. Indeed the only thing saving you would be longer steering links. Or shorter wishbones.
  14. Without pics of said area i can not comment further. All i see is the front view and there it is clearly too high. :)
  15. Actually you need tie rods that are 2 studs longer. Your wishbones are 8 studs long. The better sollution here would be to use the 9l steering links. That would minimise the effect. The tie rods need to be paralel to the wishbones/driveshaft. So the steering rack needs to come down by 1 stud in any case. And you need to make it narrower (bring the points where the tie rods attach closer.)
  16. What is blocking the movement of the steering at that point?
  17. Precisely the reason why it needs to be lower. Make some more detailed pics of that area and we'll re-engineer it to be proper.
  18. You need to lower the steering rack by one stud to avoid massive bump steer.
  19. I don't understand how this even holds air. It should hiss out of every gap between the bricks, not just the obvious big holes.
  20. Very nice and detailed! Like it very much.
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