nicjasno

I think what he ment was a ball joint socket, like the one you can find on the steering links.

There simply isn't any other way of moving the lower pivot closer to the wheel than to use 2 pivot arms. That's why it had to be done. I agree that it's not 100% realistic, but it's much closer to the reality of vehicle design, than the lego version.

I admired it on brickshelf already. Also very nice. I had to work within the confinements of the lego unimog, especially regarding width, so i had to make it more compact. But your version is also excellent for trial trucks. Systems like these are what makes building with lego fun for me.

I would love to design a blue koenigseg agera-r as a supercar for lego. If they only let me. :( I'd need crowkillers help for the body though. :)

Awd and fwd vehicles in general should have some toe in, because the driving force pushes the wheels a bit outward and gets you a neutral toe when in motion. Very well done btw.

It's not that difficult. Just draw lines from the virtual pivot you'd like, and you'll see where the possible steering links can be. It's pure geometry, not magic. Look at my multilink video and how i explain where the pivot is and why it is there.

You're welcome. The unimog exemplifies all the things trialtruck builders do wrong. I just had to bring some clarity into it. Once you have the right geometry, very little force is required to steer the vehicle and the steering will be much more precise. Both features that you'd really want in a trial truck, yet everybody is constantly doing it wrong. And lego is partly to blame for that, because they don't make models with good steering geometries.

It's not just rack and pinion. The problem with trial trucks is the whole geometry of the steering which is totally wrong. I suggest watching my video where i address this issue:

Nothing wrong with that.

In my case people pay for my work and craftsmanship and of course for the parts. You buy an engine from me, because you want it to be perfect. In other cases, you build it yourself.

Yeah, i drill all inlets to 1.8mm, modify cylinders and switches, i glue part of the crank and i use the plastic tubing. There's 2 types of plastic tubing. Polyethilene and Polyamide. One is a bit softer and other is very hard. The softer one is used in tighter places where a bit flexibility of the tubing itself is required. I also drill the holes the tubings go through to 5.2mm instead of the 4.8mm that the pinholes usually have, to be able to pass the tubings through. And as was said before. The plastic tubing is there to allow high rpms by not popping out and it also allows the engine to actually deliver any sort of performance. With the lego silicone tubings, those just popped out when you wanted power.