nicjasno

I'm not asking for much here. 28, 24*, 20 and 16** tooth gears with dog teeth socket. All that is needed. * can be made out of a differential ** this is the only gear we have with a dog teeth socket so far

I disagree here. Especially given space constraints in lego models. And the added friction of all the gears makes it hard to motorise models with many gears.

I find gearboxes awesome, but lego gearboxes are not a good learning tool, because they are way too complex and not realistic. It's gotten out of hand and legos refusal to make more gears with dog teeth sockets is puzzling me. It'd make gearboxes of all kinds in cranes, trucks, cars.. so much smaller, easier to understand and more realistic.

Give this man a like

We need 28, 24 and 20 tooth gears with integrated clutch teeth (in addition to the existing 16 tooth gears). Then one could make a small realistic and compact 4 speed gearbox with equal steps between gears with little friction.

Constructive criticism that someone at lego should take to heart.

Personally i am dissapointed in the suspension setup and the gearbox. Again, the standard double wishbone setup that is present in all big technic models since the 8880 (and that at least had proper CV joints). Using the small cv joints which severely limit the steering angle. Very sad. My next problem with lego models is that all the gears are so integrated into the structure of the model, instead of the gearbox being a module. The gearboxes are also, as mentioned before, overly complicated and have too much friction. Lego needs to make more gears that have the integrated dog teeth cup, like the 16z gears they use in this gearbox, so we could make realistic gearboxes with way less gears and friction. How hard can it be?

So sad to see, that this thing uses the old hubs with the small cv joints, totally destroying any hopes of actiual steering angles.

I am not. For this i'd need non-lego switches. There is just no way to collect the exhausted air from the cylinders, so i'm unable to devise a system that would make any sense. :(

Because then the gearbox wouldn't mount so nicely to the engine.

I know. That's because i'm struggling with this issue myself :P

The beams just add weight. I'd go for a sollution that requires less material to be used.

Building instructions: http://www.lpepower.com/products-free/ford-transit-instructions I made an old favorite of mine... it's a great fidgeting toy - when i'm bored or want to relax i just drive it around the desk :P Maybe somebody will find some stuff utilized in it usefull, maybe not.

Once properly lubed you don't need to relube very often. On plastics and rubber use a silicone based lubricant. Oil based lubes will destroy the rubber and plastics.

I am hyped for the new valves!

You need a better rear suspension. Look at what i did with the challenger suspension in one of the newer videos.

That is a very correct assesment. It was put together in a few minutes just for demo purposes.

That multilink from one of my old videos is total shite btw

I want wheel hubs that have as little slack as the small turntable hubs and fit 8880 cv joints. Also they must not have any already integrated balljoints.

That pushrod shows the slack. :) You could try relocating the pushrod ball 1 stud closer to the wheel by reengineering the yellow liftarm into something that can carry the ball pin. 2 #1 connectors with one of those new pinhole connectors with 1 stud axles on each side whould do the trick.

Maybe not much left and right, but try twisting the hubs slightly and they go all over the place. The slack in ball joints is amazing. I tried this with the challenger suspension in one of my videos.

Cute as a proof of concept, but not really usable due to the excess amount of slack.

The porsche was basically the lemans car with added gearbox and better looks.

Never use mineral based oil with lego. It has acids that will destroy the lego plastic. Use silicon spray lubricant or silicone grease. Lego uses white silicone grease in its motors from the factory.