nicjasno

There's room for a LPEpower i3 and various electric motor configurations. The battery packs are there for a reason. Both to power a servo motor and for the propulsion.

Slow progress:

I can see it already with my models. The e30 chassis is much lighter than the studded mustang chasis, yet is just as strong and uses much less parts. The new panels and box liftarm sections help immensly aswell. I tried studless for the first time with my challenger model, but that proved to be a very heavy and not very strong vehicle, mainly because the lack of panels and the box liftarm sections at the time. I am 100% in favor of studless.

A standard 2 door bodyshell. After i finish it and make the instructions, it'll be up to everyone to make their own version. I will even make a tutorial how to lower it.

Both. Red will be just perfect. The front will get more shape into it. I was just playing around a bit to get a feel for the proportions of the car. The front valance is too parts intensive. Needs less liftarms and more panels. Any suggestions how to better shape the fenders?

More pics. I don't have a lot of panels suitable for the exterior of the car. So some colored ones as placeholders will do. WHat color should the car be? I guess it'll be down to pure parts availability.

I'd love to see a bus and/or a delivery van (fwd, transverse drivetrain, sliding doors..., b models would be same fron end with flat bed and/or crew cab).

Some fresh pics:

The first thing i want in a supercar is that it isn't a rehash of old stuff. Every supercar should have a different suspension configuration, should be a different kind of car (yes, sooner or later the theme is going to repeat itself). Good looks is a must of course, but in todays age of panels, that is not a problem anymore.

A video will come when its finished. No sense of do it otherwise. THings are changing constantly right now. The front end needs to be rebuilt again since i have decided to use the pneumatic cylinder struts, Those springs have too much play in them.

The purpose of the new wheel hub is just to be able to fit the fake brake calipers.

Some progress:

I want a wheel hub that can be used for all suspension variants. Need to draw some plans for it.

The problem wit the integrated ball joints is, that it completly eliminates all suspension variations. It's then only made for a double wishbone setup, and that's it.

I see... that one isn'tvery good looking. looks very fragile and has ball joints on it, which is a big no-no.

Can someone post images of all the current wheel hubs with 8880 cv joint from this thread?

Please no moulded ball joints on the hubs. If we do hubs, they need only pin and axleholes.

The simple fix is to pry cover off, apply superglue around cover edges and click it back on, while firmly pressing it together, untill glue dries. The switches start to leak because the pressure on the rubber onto the switch surface is not high enough to ensure a tight seal. You regulate that pressure with the back plate.

They can be fixed as long as the inlets aren't cracked. I do it all the time for the pneumatic engines. Which swich type are they?

Existing lego parts. No new parts are needed. But while at it, new wheel hubs would be preferable. Ones with a proper CV joint connection and less slack.

Not the steering, but they could have done a proper multilink suspension.

That sums up the whole consumer culture of today. As you said, we need to live in the now, enjoying what we have, not always live in anticipation of the next big thing.

I want a realistic car. The lego cars are boring, because we get served the same thing over and over again.

Nothing in the porsche suspension is even remotely similar to the real car. But the rear of the model is probably much heavier than the front, so two springs are used.

A 4l axle fits in there, but the whole point of the red pins is to be removable, so you can remove every component.