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nicjasno

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by nicjasno

  1. nicjasno
    I know his chanel. I can't do anything about it. But i don't see him taking credit for designing the engines. So i guess it's ok-ish.
  2. nicjasno
    Mine is very close to this. Also with a 13 galon air tank and this one has actually a higher output psi rating and is even cheaper than mine was. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Campbell-Hausfeld-13-Gal-125-Max-PSI-PortableElectric-Air-Compressor-DC130000/301079716
  3. nicjasno
    The problem is, that you need bigger suspension travels and a softer suspension. What i see in your model is just some chasis flexing (i assume this is what you interpret as "suspension") . This causes just lots of vibrations, which in term cause the wheels to loose traction, the steering to fall apart, etc... Your setup is good for a flat surface like a gym hall, not for a road outside. I hope this makes sense.
  4. nicjasno
    There is no suspension at all. What you have here is a vehicle that is going to skip uncontrollably over bumps, small stones etc... The higher the speed, the more important a good chasis becomes. While you have figured out how to get the most out of the motors, it's the chassis that is holding you back. The front needs a bionicle ball joint front suspension with caster and camber, springs and shock absorbers. This is what you need at the very least. The scale of the car is what makes this necessary. A 1:1 car would not really need any of that, because the road surface would be smooth for it, but for a lego car, the road is a pothole ridden obstacle course.
  5. nicjasno
    This is not very good for high speed runs on very uneven surfaces.
  6. nicjasno
    That's the idea. Since pneumatic engines and steam engines are exactly the same.
  7. nicjasno
    As compressors go, You want a big air tank, or high pressure. I use a hobby compressor with a 50l air tank and a pressure of about 7.5 bars. You could go much smaller like airsoft air tanks, which have a much higher pressure. I am thinking of improving the efficiency of the engines by designing an expansion engine, where the air goes into the first cylinder, and after expanding and doing work is passed onto the next cylinder, which of course has to be bigger, to do the same amount of work with less pressure. This would decrease the pressure needed and allow for the air tanks to last much longer. But it greatly complicates engine design, since it'll require at least 2 switches per cylinder and a more intricate timing mechanism, unless i use non-lego switches that are designed like steam engine valves.
  8. nicjasno
    Instead of the 8 tooth gears, use universal joints.
  9. nicjasno
    That is also a very good suggestion.
  10. nicjasno
    It's much too heavy.
  11. nicjasno
    The angle of the Main wishbone/load carrying arm is irrelevant. The main thing is that if you don't have the luxury to position the steering arm pivot closer to the wheel center (in the case of the steering rack being in front of the axle), you can also achive ackerman by having the steering links angled back. That said, in lego, you don't have the luxury of adjustable steering links, like in real life. So in the e30 i had to angle the wishbones back, to maintain the same length of wishbone and steering link in order to avoid bump steer. In the challenger, the whole design of the real life suspension came my way :)
  12. nicjasno
    You are talking about this i assume: But one can also achive ackerman the way i did (and dodge) in the challenger suspension, where the steering arms are angled backwards. The e30 also has them angled slightly backwards to achive this:
  13. nicjasno
    The steering arms need to be paralel to either the upper or lower suspension arms. It depends which arm they are closest to. I'd advise against placing them in the middle . If you have unequal length wishbones, it's basically impossible to avoid bump steer in this case with lego.
  14. nicjasno
    No instructions. If you want i can go into detail why. But the engine will be made out of modified cylinders and switches just like the rest of my engines. The trick is in the setup. An expansion engine passes used air from the first cylinder to the next cylinder, where it expands again, etc. Subsequently each cylinder must be bigger in order to to the same amount of work as the first. This will probably require 2 switches per cylinder and some interesting timing mechanism. I hope the tubing won't be a total nightmare.
  15. nicjasno
    In order to increase efficiency i am planning to make a triple expansion pneumatic engine.
  16. nicjasno
    Numbered bags are useless after the first build anyway.
  17. nicjasno
    I really want inner trays back. They can be cardboard or whatever. The old boxes from the 80s and 90s were so much better. And when/if you collect them, parts are easier to organise.
  18. nicjasno
    Wise words have been spoken :)
  19. nicjasno
    The steering angle is much too small. You can do better than that.
  20. nicjasno
    True. I did not pay attention to this when assembling.
  21. nicjasno
    The Dropbox folder with the files and images you will need:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j834hctryh...
  22. nicjasno
    It's not really a modification. And with such high speeds a necessity. Lego also uses grease in the motors. Speeds should increase. Would be interesting to see if lubrication alone can make up the missing 5kmh.
  23. nicjasno
    Have you tried to use silicone spray lubricant, to reduce friction on the axles and gears?
  24. nicjasno
    The car needs all 4 wheels with suspension. This will make it a lot more stable. The front needs caster and kingpin inclination.
  25. nicjasno
    So if the front whee is that small and has no suspension, it is no wonder that at speeds over 20kmh very big forces start to act on it. I would use a bigger wheel (preferably the same as for the driving wheels and some suspension. You can get away without suspension ony on a perfecly smooth surface, like in a gym or in a parking garage. Everywhere else you need suspension.
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