nicjasno

You have to try weird stuff, even if it makes no initial sense or even if you don't like it. Because what you learn there might give you ideas for what works.

Download these pics from my dropbox and you should be able to figure it out. There are springs inside the pneumatic cylinders. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hh0ngow9nnhcrn4/AABOmptf2rL35RM2sRpQFwIwa?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ia7rz2po2eszs6k/AAAZBgL5ThZ8heLo7lkG3lpoa?dl=0

Universal sets get my full support!! Pneumatic brakes are not really viable at the moment, but i am all for sets without licensing costs.

Fixing the C pillar and gaps around the trunk area in the latest video. The blue panel is there, because i have just one in the correct orientation. Need to buy more. Drivers side is fixed, passanger side still old mess.

Some nice generic 5 spoke wheels that have rims the same diameter as the supercars but width as wide as the landrover. That'd be nice.

The landrover wheels are a perfect compromise. If you watch the charger streams on my youtube, you'll see it. Join the stream tonight 20:15 CET and mention in chat and i'll show it.

The pivot on the ground is inside the tire ofc. I could go with a crazy kingpin angle, but that would be silly. Would be great if lego made more realistic rims, like the supercar and landrover wheels, to allow for more realistic setups. After all, it also adds playability.

I prefer the 68 rear end and 70 front end. :P

The c pillar is a load bearing member of the chasis. It amakes evrything very stiff.

That's why it has a kingpin inclination, so that the pivot is inside the wheel still. Supercar wheels should make it easier to make realistic suspension. The porsche gt3 should really have had a macpherson front. Mockup of the rear:

Door locks working:

They are fine. No distortion. main reason for this is, because they are basically stationary once the suspension height is adjusted and they are not under as much stress as you might think.

They are tension rods, basically like in the real car they prevent the lower suspension link to move in the lateral direction. The steering works flawlesly. I would not use it if it didn't. The front torsion bar is illegal in this regard aswell, because it uses the torsion of the lego axles to provide the spring force. But no bricks have or will be modified. And by this extent.... the anti-roll bars are also illegal, because they too use the axle torsion to do their job. But that's how it works in real life.

It's called paralelogram steering and is used in the 68 charger. The pitman arm links are weirldy shaped because of the size constraints of our scale. This is how it looks in the original charger: Some interior shots: Engine bay:

So, i have decided to make/finish a model after quite a while. It's my favorite car ofc. The classic 1968 dodge charger. The goal here is to use just unmodfied lego pieces, so that at the end instructions can be made and people can build their own. It'll have many functions: - Adjustable front torsion bar double wishbone suspension with semi realistic geaometry (scale and wheels don't permit it to be fully realised) - Leaf sprung live axle in the rear - Anti roll bars in the front and rear - Unibody construction - HoG steering and working steering in the interior - 3 speed gearbox and fake v8 - Trunk lock and spring supported trunk lid - Door locks - Hood lock and spring supported hood - Openable blinds for front headlights - Adjustable seats - Other You can follow the streams on my youtube page: https://www.youtube.com/c/nicjasno/videos Here's some pics:

In that case you really want caster. I'd go with 5 degrees, and a very slight toe in.

Caster is a must, i recommend 3-5 degrees. KPI is recommended but i guess you could get away without it. It'd add more feel to the HoG steering.

Got some pics of your current setup?

My expectations are very low.

Yes.

I was wondering how to make the upper elevated wishbone. I wonder no more :)

Yes. This has many suspension applications and i will use it in my Defender rebuild, if i may :)

This is amazing!

Weight is always a good measure. If your suspension can handle 1.5kg per axle, it can certanly handle less and will feel very strong.

They're all bad unfortunately.