amorti

Thats what I'm saying. This moc has gear driven cams like my cb-1, and like zero IL4 car engines ever. It'd make more sense for it to have a chain. @nicjasno just made me smile when I noticed it's the same width as the Sierra engine bay.

Is there a way to use a camchain instead of all those gears? I have a Honda cb-1 so I know and love the sound of gear-driven cams, however the only car engine I can think that had them was the ford Essex engine; a V6. @nicjasno hey, it's 13 studs wide...

That's a shame :( Mine is fine as gio's. You can if course use any servo to replace the bad one or I have a spare new type CaDA servo, if you want to replace it with the same. Make me an offer on PM.

Wait, what now? Cool :)

At that point it's just this "drum brake conversion" :D

Nope... The front is longer in the photoshop above, but that doesn't have the racecar's front lip. The proportions are actually really good on this car.

When you put the LandRover tyres on, the outer diameter is the same. But this model has RSR tyres on, so the overall diameter is smaller.

Now we're not talking about CaDA's licensed model from T_lego, but a copy of that. I think we're pushing our luck with Dark Side stuff, here gents.

Yeh, the Porsche RSR was just the Rally Car chassis underneath, it looked like a teenager wearing his dad's coat. Good illustration, thanks for the effort! Looks like Lego finally found @Sariel's scaler - can you tell if there were logins with IP from Billund? :D

I'm sure you can get the CaDA one for $170 by now, and you get twice the part count, a bluetooth LiPO box, remote, 4 motors, lights, 4 speed RC gearbox... Once you open yourself to the Dark Side,, it's a no-brainer. Even so, this one does have some nice parts in some nice colours. Seems like there's more new moulds than usual from Lego in the upcoming wave. Good on you, Lego :)

Looks useful! How much power does it give? I'm guessing it's not suitable to drive a large model? Is it able to do functions like open a rear spoiler or a scissor door?

You can re-use the twisty ties they use to package the motor wires for that purpose.

Lego prices are pretty hard to justify. There's a Chinese knockoff of madocca's pf buggy which comes with "Hyperspeed" L motors which, while they don't have much torque, spin about as fast as a buggy motor. It is properly fast. It doesn't have proportional control but it does have a proper remote control. It's half the price of this set from Lego, even if you buy it from a reseller in Europe. I'd take a set of those tyres, but Lego can keep the rest. Those tyres would be perfect for a MOC of R-C from Toy Story

I've had no trouble closing it, but if the stand was back not down.

My bad. Thought there was a blue 2L pin and 1L axle thingy in the front mudguard. Just looked on my Corvette and I realise that you can't see the pin there.

I can't believe it either, but it seems to be true. So this set comes with at least two pins in unusual colours. Is Lego softening on the matter of pin colours?

It's really a shame because those reminded me of another random red supercar with these aftermarket wheels. But, these OEM wheels look enough like Porsche wheels, that I'll go with those instead. Let's click Submit and see how big the images turn out...

Original Lego wheels would definitely be a safe bet for better quality, but they're too expensive to buy just for a colour change. I don't think there is an app. CaDA don't claim this model operates on Bluetooth, because then you'd need a Bluetooth license. Rather, it operates on 2.4Ghz radio, which doesn't need any license. I think. For me, phone apps are not worth the trouble anyway, physical controllers are much nicer. So much so that I bought a gamepad to use with BrickController2 for my PoweredUp and Buwizz batteries.

The CaDA ones did, but I just didn't like the chrome effect. These black rims are from some other Chinese brand, and they're junk. Should've kept the OG's.

Fake news! :D

This type of thing reminds me one of the reasons why there's so much hate for Chinese bricks. Some brands just don't get it right.

I changed the temporary wheels... For some black ones: While the look is exactly what I wanted, unfortunately the quality of these Chinese Bugatti wheels is absolute dog-mess. The pins which should hold them to the hubs don't have much of any ridge, so they don't "click" in. As a consequence, they fall straight back out again when you drive the car. Very disappointing, since I traded the good quality CaDA wheels (which I just didn't like the chrome finish) for these.

I was just thinking it looked like they improved it in the shaping, then that.

That reminds me... E129 isn't really clear in where those soft hoses go. They seem to be pointing into the holes of the 1&2 panels, but are you saying it's not correct? I did have doubts because it doesn't really reach. Do I have the rest correct? I think I see what @JunkstyleGio has done, which is put the front mounting pin into the hole in the panel, rather than the connector on the back of the panel. It's shown with yellow circles in step E125 and is very easy to correct. The one thing that I couldn't get right in my mind was these "floating" 3L axles with a stud on the end just behind the wheels. Is this right? Thanks ? Ps: Please ignore the temporary wheels. I need to go fetch the final set from the post office at the weekend. I'll put some more pictures when I got them.

I've seen a leaked image (as I'm sure we all have) and I wasn't thrilled by this one. Too many stickers, bodywork too complex for the scale. Still, blue small mudguards should make it at least a little bit useful as a parts donor and we can hope for decent C-models and motorizations as with the Corvette.