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amorti

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by amorti

  1. It's a muscle car, they floated about on soft springs IRL. Also, it's totally normal for a car to sit into its suspension travel under its own weight. Real cars do this.
  2. I can access every Themes sub forum, except Technic, which just loads a blank page. Have I upset the mods, or is it broken?
  3. It's exactly that; a sliding 8t gear.
  4. Should? No. Can? Yes. Silicon grease, without mineral oil and choose carefully, as even some silicon spraycan propellants eat ABS.
  5. I'm not creative enough to actually make a model, but if I did I'd cheat a little by building a Honda Grom or Monkey 125. You could build to a bigger scale and have more details, if the standard bike wheels are acting as 12" instead of 17". The Ducati rear tyre looks a similar size to both front and rear tyres of a Grom. The gold Ducati shocks would also be a good match.
  6. Maybe the grease within the planetary reductions has gone bad? Seems unlikely, but if it's not the batteries then I'm struggling for answers. You can put your meter across the outputs on the battery box to see what voltage is actually getting out of that and into the toy. It's two contacts diagonally opposite each other, I think. Could still be corrosion on the power switch or something similar.
  7. The plastic parts can't corrode, so unless somehow gears got misaligned and pushed tight, the problem is in the electronics. If it's slow on all functions, then it's probably not the motors or the IR receivers either, as it seems unlikely all your motors and both receivers would degrade together at a similar rate. Could there be corrosion anywhere in the battery box which would reduce the voltage to the IR receivers? This would seem most likely if it were put away still with batteries in it, all those years ago. Do you have a multimeter? Check the voltage on each battery. Maybe one is low or gone bad , can still happen with brand new batteries. You might also want to try some full-fat disposable batteries too
  8. @gethema the post has real value and is very relevant - thanks for fixing the pics and I certainly wouldn't want to abridge it.
  9. No idea if the wider CaDA company knows about it, but the FB group seems to be moderated by a CaDA employee. Everyone makes his own decisions, but to me seems fair that people who want them get them from the original source. @gethema that's great work. Would you mind to host the first pictures the same way as the last? I can't open them on mobile without a more-than-whole page ad blocking the image.
  10. You'll probably do better using an original Lego PF lead. As above, the problem is high current and a loose or otherwise poor connection.
  11. It is! And this beholder agrees with @JintaiZ It's a Technic model so I'm quite happy to see mechanical parts, and I can certainly live with not-quite realistic shaping, particularly at this scale. Those who want a more realistic looking 10€ Lego aeroplane with fewer gears showing, can try 31099.
  12. Brickcontroller2 also works with C+ hubs, albeit that doesn't solve the original question, maybe it's good to know.
  13. If you don't like the buwizz app, get brickcontroller2 and a gamepad. Then you get that haptic feedback that Lego C+ has been missing.
  14. It seems likely there will be a rechargeable solution for the c+ hub, all in good time. Or just buy a Buwizz, which is equipped with LiPo batteries anyway.
  15. Curious to how that gearbox works - how do you get 6 gears on a wave selector with 4 quadrants? I guess there are gears at <90° increments? I can't even imagine how to do hub centre steering in Lego. If you pull that off this will be very impressive. Even if you have to skip working steering, it'll be quite a thing to get 2wd.
  16. Gents, do you want jam on it or what? That's where the books have been uploaded by the copyright holder. If you don't want them enough to get a free (disposable) email and sign up to a free (disposable) Facebook account, then you don't really want them.
  17. I'm in that group and totally hadn't noticed the books were uploaded. Well, if CaDA are sharing then I don't see a problem. I don't suppose @brunojj1 would mind either, since the IP now belongs to CaDA. It's not the same as t_lego's lambo where he's also selling the instructions on rebrickable. That would be out of order to share, and indeed I notice that those instructions aren't reuploaded, only a corrections sheet. So... I'll put links to the CaDA FB group in the top post. That way anyone who wants the instructions can get them, but if CaDA suddenly realize it's a mistake, nobody rehosted or reuploaded them. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2218777094887398/
  18. It's a hard number to buy this versus the CaDA Ferrari. Let's be honest, unless your brand loyalty overrides your common sense, the decision has to be the CaDA.
  19. The wheels can just as well be GT3 wheels, to me they look nicer on this than the chrome ones CaDA used anyway. I'm guessing the shift paddles don't work on the static Version? If they do, I'll be interested in how they managed that.
  20. Are the bottom control arms longer than the top arms? Seems like if you have a simple two-speed transmission switch where one of the clutch gears joins to the steering input and one is locked, that'd do it? The locked one could mesh with another gear that's on an axle into a technic brick, or it could have a gear rack under it locking it in place.
  21. Cool model! It has a decent turn of speed. Maybe it could use softer suspension so as to float over bumps rather than skip over them?
  22. Icarus and Koncept Mantis use an 8z gear pushed from both sides. It never gave me any troubles, albeit that's with "only" 4 Chinese high power motors rather than buggy motors! I like to use dielectric silicon grease. Works well enough, and by design it doesn't eat plastic. Red rubber grease for brake caliper sliding pins might be good if thicker grease is needed.
  23. I don't think there is any problem. I think this has already hit the top of what Lego C+ in this configuration can do. I believe the motors are running at 90%+ of available speed, not of potential power, considering the motors only have a sensor for speed not torque. Otherwise how does the display show 100% with the wheels up? That doesn't use 100% of power when unloaded. Keep in mind it takes a lot more power to get to 7kmh from 4kmh as you've achieved. If you want more speed, it's time for that 150€ Buwizz 3. Or there's a China kit with a 20kmh top speed for half the price of the Lego kit. Just sayin'
  24. If I'm guessing, not caring about your country isn't specific to you or your country, and isn't the same as not liking it. Moreover, it's to say that your country is irrelevant to the discussion. I live in Malta - do you care about my country? Or that I live here? This is a forum with a very international presence, but it's not the place to ask about issues with shipping between China and your country. It's the place to discuss Lego models, and in this case one particular not-Lego model. Better if you ask the post office about your particular problem. When you have the model in hand, or a question about it, that'll be the moment to post here.
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