amorti

@2GodBDGlory Perhaps you could go out of the motor directly into one of the new reduction hubs? That would reduce your speed by 5.4:1.

Also: not a stolen MOC, arocs tyres, and blue seats. If anything from MouldKing could make it on to the Held der Steine Channel (=Hero of the Stones, a German Lego YouTuber) this could.

That's awesome, no other word for it! I'd definitely be interested in the RC solution for models like Greyhound, Koncept Mantis. I guess it's two channel so you'd stick to models like this without extra functions. Wonder how much it will sell for? If it can give plenty of juice to 2x buggy motors, seems like it will replace 2x Buwizz, so it doesn't need to be cheap.

Thank you for sharing. Looks great! Impressive power too. I didn't get a sense from the video of if/when you changed gear, was it going up those hills in high or does it have even more speed to give than that?? Wonder what batteries it'll come with from MouldKing? As long as they leave space for 2 buwizz then all good.

Nope. To make it a fair comparison you'd have to gear the pf XL to get 50% more speed, so it would be closer to 10n.cm than 15n.cm. If you're talking about power, you need to compare the mechanical power number, not the torque number. Even so, the numbers do tell that the pf XL motors were ≈12% stronger (napkin maths) That graphic makes me seriously wonder why bother with the larger powered up XL motors if they don't give more power than L motors.

Looking amazing! I recommend to look into brickcontroller2 for controlling the model. You'll be able to manage all your hubs from one gamepad, which will make it even more impressive when you present the model. Congratulations on your promotion ?

I'm not sure they are? There is a comparison of 42099 and 9398, and if you gear them for similar speeds the new one can get up more. The motors are bulkier, but they're also more usefully shaped, so more typically used as a structural element of the model. My problem with c+ is the hubs are expensive. As Lego has patented the connectors, there will presumably also be no compatible parts any time soon. No buwizz, no sbrick, only c+ hubs. At least brickcontroller2 can already give you a physical control for your toys. Using a phone to control models is no fun.

Good idea. How did I not think of that? It would remove some play, as the locked diff part does have some slack in it.

There's a 28t gear now, however it wouldn't be easy to fit it in a frame in the same way as a differential as it's not a thin gear. You could argue that's how they do it on real street drifters (welded diff) so it's valid here too.

Same in didumos's rocky. I've just done same in koncept mantis as it spit out a 12t gear from the diff, it's a 10t gear now.

I like the model a lot, and the colour coded pins, and the gearbox which is well beyond my comprehension level. Chapeau! Now I know it's a tuner car, the wheels feel more in scale too (refering to my comments on your previous thread)

Looks great! I like that you're setting yourself a technical challenge too, with the H gate gearbox on this one and the de Dion suspension in the smart car.

When it comes to drifting, I don't think "too much power" is a thing. Control it with brickcontroller2 to accurately apply less throttle if you're finding it spins too much. Can even set a max power limit if it's really too much. On the other hand, if you build it with one motor and find that with the weight of bodywork it doesn't have enough lead in its pencil, you're stuck.

Buwizz weigh like 50g each, they're hardly a way to ballast either end.

Actually @roeleman now that you mentioned it, I recall the pin on which the 3rd gear rides was slightly undersized, and so maybe it clicked due to that when that gear had to turn. I never did a detailed analysis of the fault. Where everything is Lego compatible, I just swapped it for a genuine part from a non powered model on which you'd never know the difference.

Low powered? Did you click the Mustang link above? It is @16 studs with the tyres, and has a buwizz and 4*L motors in there.

Just from my own experience... If you give it rear suspension, you kinda have to use the form piece hubs. That means using the old type CV joints. Icarus is heavy enough that it'll snap CV joints if you give it enough power to drift. I think you have to keep it under 1k pieces for CV joints to survive for any length of time. Or if you leave out the (rear) suspension, you can leave out the hubs, and the CV joints too.

Once you put suspension, you need CV joints. Problem is once you're making enough power to drift a good sized model, it's usually also enough to rip the heads off the old type CV joints, but you have to use those ones with the form-piece wheel hubs. It's probably just as well not to bother with suspension, if you can. Food for thought... https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-27623/Anto/ford-mustang-hoonicorn-rtr-drift-car/#info

It would be this type. It was in kevinmoo's forklift, and there was a clicking from the differential area when it had a big difference in speed between the two wheels. To be fair I think it was something else; the 5.5 axles in that model had the shorter short ends (I forget if it was earlier or later Lego 5.5 axles which have this) and they were able to slip in the cross holes of the 12t gears. I changed the diff housing and those two axles at the same time, and so in fact the diff housing might have been fine. I've posted a previous topic on metal universal joints here. I haven't seen CaDA's version yet, would be interested in which quality level they have in terms of the parts I've seen. The picture you've posted looks better than MouldKing/AliE joints, but not as good as darkicedesigns joints which are made of steel.

Sehr schön! I'm impressed with how much you got that tiny motor to do. The modern motors are much stronger.

I did find differentials could be unreliable under a lot of power but also put it down to the thin gears. They're absolutely fine for manual models though.

We won't talk about Lepin gears! But MouldKing's and CaDA's seem to be 100% as good as Lego, except the thin 12t gears. Only because they replicate the old hard plastic grey ones rather than the newer softer tan plastic gears. Did you find same?

Are there really that many? Genuine question. On most it's pretty prominent, and I know that if you look close enough, and you really need a magnifying glass, even Technic pins have the logo on them. Good point, Sembo also make some self designed models, although I did note their Audi R8 shares a lot of chassis with Madoca's Icarus. My pieces are the same with Lego, CaDA and MouldKing mixed together. The only ones I keep separate are Lepin. Pins and anything with an axle shape is basically all pure junk. I only didn't throw that stuff out because the panels, beams, and flex axles can be salvaged.

You can speak for me too. But I do understand that in a Venn diagram, it's a circle of "builds with plastic bricks" with a circle of "only builds with Lego" inside. There's always going to be some who'll never leave Billund. And that's fine, some people only had Apple since the days when they made the original smart phone. But I think it's a shame that a) those guys are missing cool models at value prices, and b) they should withhold that from other members. Let's not push our luck with "&co" though, as you quickly get to stolen MOC brands including plenty stolen from members here... CaDA is a much easier argument to make.

They do have a few pieces you won't find from TLG, and they're pieces which are really useful such as 5,7,9,11 stud length beams like this, with alternating holes. Thanks Jim, for the open-minded approach. English is his second language, think in German you'd say politik, which doesn't quite translate the same. Still, you got the meaning. I didn't realise they did these in 4L too. I've never used these parts but I've wanted them frequently I really wish they'd put one of the sticks as left-right :/ I agree totally and 100% with everything you've written here. Lego will remain the original Technic, but it's good if they're kept on their toes. Monopolies are never good for a consumer; you get to eat whatever they feed you and pay the asking price.