amorti

Could you picture the whole lot, as it fits? I'm having a hard time picturing it. My first thought is a 36t gear on each motor, I think they'll mesh at 1:1 (they're 5 studs across, right?), then down on to a 12t. They're much more sturdy than 8t gears, and should give that speed boost same as 24:8. What if they were both face down towards the axle? Then some mix of bevel gears, eg 20t down on to 12t. Feels.like it'd be more compact in the space within the frame, than stacking them.

Loxlego has been teaming two XL motors up on one axle for a while now. Start with his models for a bit of inspiration. Feels like you're tight for space here though, do 2 XLs actually fit?

Hard to tell what's right in Lego chains, but I don't think I'd run a motorcycle chain that tight. Maybe try softer springs on the tensioners? I think the real problem is running too many motors on one buwizz. It's not the motors heating up that's causing your power to cut, it's the circuit inside the buwizz which has a thermal fuse. I have didumos's greyhound on the shelf with 4 Chinese higher power L-motors. It works with one buwizz, properly on low and mostly okay in normal, but on high or ludicrous it'll trip the protection immediately when you try to pull away. With two buwizz it'll be fine in normal, but trip out the protection on high as the battery gets low with a very harsh stop/start, and on ludicrous with anything other than a very gentle start. TL;DR: adding a second buwizz makes a real difference to how much current can be delivered without tripping the thermal protection circuit breaker. EDIT: In one of the pictures you have two buwizz attached. What is the point of this thread? You've already tried with two, you must know it solves your problem. I also see stacked extension leads, although I can't quite make sense of what's going on with them. I would suggest not putting more than 2 motors on the same output.

They did release a colour-change kit for their older Lamborghini car, so I guess it could happen. But nothing planned that I heard about.

Your pic is poor Res, but I did think the tracks looked pretty taut.

More motors will cause a voltage drop. After that I would guess it goes by Ohm's law... Fewer volts for the same watts means more amps (right?) So it'll all get hotter. 6 motors on one buwizz is kinda pushing your luck anyway. I bet it'll work better if you remove two if them. 4 motors on 1.5kg is enough for some serious speed (that's about what Koncept Mantis has over there in my shelf). Or add another buwizz.

You're not really mixing units until you present a torque figure in cm/lb's!

Good to remember that not everyone shares the British sense of ironic humour! Guys, this is a joke at the OP's expense, or let's more kindly say it's a calculation which points out the ridiculous nature of his intention (pipedream)

what if you put a buggy motor back to front in a planetary hub? You get 5500rpm odd, what wheel do you need then? obviously it'll take a lot of power to spin that, but theoretically.

You have a lot of flexibility in the side bolster of the seat and nothing is really cross braced, so removal isn't that bad. Yours is a more correct solution in terms of legality.

I think the CaDA version is an improvement, as the longer soft hose has less tendency to pull out. It also holds the curve nicely. If you don't have red 15100 connectors though, the other solution will also work. Maybe CaDA learned a lesson from the centenario about restricting themselves to pieces in the TLG parts catalogue? I reckon they'd have sold more in one of the other colours t_lego has shown, especially black and yellow.

I'm half tempted to make the side skirt from a continuous row of 2L axle or pin spacers. Pin spacers might be a little thick but would make it consistent over the whole length and you could add strategically placed 15100 connectors along the length of the floor panel for support. I had no idea 15100 wasn't available from TLG in red! I guess the 2021 Ferrari from Lego will change that but they won't be cheap. The drivetrain doesn't need any mods, except those motors reinstating. The transmission is already brilliant. Motor mounts look sturdy. Maybe over engineered, but they're a swine to get back to once it's complete, so probably better that way. I'm looking to get another pair of CaDA motors so (if I find them) I will have that pain to come. Probably use your design to mount them, if that day comes.

The black/yellow one has been pirated by another chinabrick company. No idea how good the piece quality would be, but definitely t_lego doesn't get a cut, and it'd be a shame not to support a rare chinabrick company as CaDA that's trying to do the right thing.

Looks so much nicer with black Porsche wheels, than what CaDA chose.

Good stuff ? As you say I think a lot is personal taste but I don't think any is a complete miss. This also shows once more our different interests in terms of tinkering... My heart is definitely not in the bodywork!

If you can live without the rear brake caliper, you can use 3L pins to secure the rear hubs. Not so much an improvement as an alternative option, but could become an improvement if you then reinstated the caliper.

Problem is, other than the fixes from bruno himself, what I've put above, and if anyone wanted/needed a guide to fitting the extra motors and converting to 2* buwizz (it's really obvious btw) I don't think that this model needs any improvement. Just a shame CaDA only gives you two motors, as it could use the 3rd and 4th to pull top gear. That said, maybe it's better this way? You can't comfortably pull away in 4th gear, so you have to go through the gears even if you just use it as a two speed box and toggle between 1&4. What's so bad about that? Still, I'd be interested in anything any of the other builders has found.

@brunojj1 I don't know if it's a feature or a bug, but the seats rock freely back and forth. I decided to pin them steady. Basic idea, with a lbg connector for visibility. You have to clip the seat in, then push the pin with bush in. Then slide the 2L axle in. The CaDA tool is perfect for that. (Click to go large and see what I'm talking about) I also changed the steering wheel axle for a 5.5er. That way even if you use the metal universal joint, the steering wheel can't fall out. Can we do a pimp my Pista thread? Ofc it can't become an instruction set, but I'm an incorrigible tinkerer and I like to share what comes out of that.

I am well into the fifth instructions book out of 6. Still enjoying it - even the bodywork part! I guess I'll finish over this weekend. Does indeed look pretty simple. Thanks for the tip. I'll put the parts in next time I need to make a bricklink order.

Thanks guys, that's a relief. I can live without brake calipers, or I'll look if I have parts to do it like the cars the wheels came from.

Uh oh... I've swapped some CaDA rims and hub for Bugatti rims and hubs with @Gray Gear... if the offset is different, are they not going to fit the red supercar??

I can imagine the limited resale value. Can you imagine building a 3500 piece model which didn't come in numbered bags?

First to say, I have built some big kits but this is my first 1:8 supercar build, and my first 3k+ piece build. So I'm not best placed to rate one against another. I'm into book 4 of 6, so the technical side of the build is just about finished now. Most of what remains is bodywork, which I learned from Lego's 911RSR is not my favourite game. Anyway I can say about the experience so far. This model is structurally very well built. Lots of cross bracing means it really holds itself together well so far. The gearbox is brilliant. It shifts very well even under load. The shift paddles moving is genius in both concept and execution. Steering is the normal double wishbone suspension without any complex geometry, but at least it's sturdily built without much flex. Above all, it's motorised. What's the play fun in a 1:8 supercar where the only steering involves opening the door, and trying to turn a steering wheel with your fingers contorted? The instructions are very good. Everything is broken out nicely into subassemblies then added to the car. Angles are well chosen, although this does mean you frequently have to turn the model around. Good news is nothing wants to fall off too easy. The guy got sleepy when he was doing the seats, and forgot that they're identical and could be done as a 2x step. I found one step where it said you needed two pins and actually you needed one, but other than that I haven't found any errors. You even get decent instructions in where to run the cabling. CaDA pieces are mostly good, but the consistency you get with Lego is missing on a few parts. Pins go in and out very nicely, but some connector pieces do have loose axle holes. I guess their moulds turns out 100 pieces at a time, and maybe 20 off them are loose. For this build it hasn't been a problem so far, since mostly it's the 90° pin/axle connector pieces which are loose, and they're always used as cross braces where they can't fall out. But you will notice it while you're building. Is the odd loose connector enough to stop me recommending it? No. Would I pay the same money for the CaDA kit as a motorised Lego 1:8 supercar? No. But Lego doesn't offer one and if they did it'd be over twice the price of this kit. Make no mistake - this model is a work of art, a genuine masterpiece. Beautiful, sturdy, and full of motorised functions. If you like technic supercars and even if you have built plenty, this still has unique features and enough to impress, that you should give it a go. I'm having great fun building it so far. For the price, the CaDA kit is great value and yes, I believe any technic supercar fan should give it a try. What do you have to lose? Worst case, you don't like the parts and you sell the kit on. Keep the instructions and build it from Danish bricks!

@astyanax I totally hadn't spotted this! The normal black 2L and 3L pins, also the dbg 2L + 1 axle pins all have a rectangular hole in the end which doesn't accept a soft axle. They do however fit very nicely in the pliers of the new CaDA Technic deconstruction tool. Maybe that explains the improvement I've noticed in CaDA pin quality - looks like it's not psychosomatic, they really have changed the design.

I've nearly finished instruction book 2 of 6. I'd love to say zero issues, but I can't. I've had my tiny files out to smooth "casting half" marks from inside the differential housing, and the backs of the wheel hubs. There are some #2 connectors which are a little loose, but I've not yet found anything as bad as shown on one of the reviews where they could fall right off an axle. #22961 in red is a poor colour match. Everything else is very good. On the positive side, I do believe CaDA have improved their pins, or liftarms, or both. The pin/axles actually seem good, I've yet to find one that was noticeably loose. The pins in this model go in very nicely, with a really satisfying "click" just like Lego, but which is mostly absent from MouldKing (GoBricks) pins, probably because they are slightly tighter in the hole. The flip side is MouldKing pins give a really solid connection, notably tighter than Lego or CaDA. The metal universal joints are better than the ones supplied by MouldKing. They'll hold anything they need to. Not sure if normal old type CV joints into the wheel hubs will also be secure, time will tell. The electrical parts all work. The drive motors are definitely stronger and faster than Lego, although I'll have to ask you to take my word as I don't have the equipment to measure that. The servos don't have proportional steering (tested on buwizz), but if you short-tap the button they will return without going to the end stop, which many Chinese servos won't do. Actually I'm planning on taking one which always goes the whole way to +/-90^ before returning to zero, to use for the gear selector. The instructions are really good. Nearly everything is put together as a module with its own detailed instructions and then added to the model. This is a real benefit on a big model where the alternative is to build it on the model in which case the picture is often too small to read well. CaDA used to grey out completed steps, they've not done that in this manual and it's a big improvement, and relief.