amorti

You mentioned on the stream that the front suspension might be too soft. I'm guessing a single axle is even more twisty. What happens if you use 2L axle connectors instead of 3L, or #2 Angle connectors?

Shame, but foreseeable. I've said my piece on the other thread. No one will read it there though, and many will put their heads in the sand if they do.

Some people like being offended. They think it matters. Truth is these aren't the old days when you could choose Lego or Lepin; original designs made of quality pieces or lo-fi copies of them that almost fit together sort of ok. No, the brick market has moved on. CaDA have original licensed designs and quality pieces. Even MouldKing are now making original designs and allegedly trying to fix things with mocers they've previously screwed over, in order to sell more in Europe. Imagine eurobricks remains an Apple echo chamber in a world where Samsung phones are better *and* cheaper. It's getting towards time to make that choice.

The power cable looks like a USB cord, but the wires are actually not connected the same way. Yes it's dumb, but it's how it is and you know that if you RTFM. So what you did, was short circuit a lipo which ofc exploded it.

Fair enough, and that's why I post any reviews or comments about their sets elsewhere. However some people might be open to cheaper and stronger pf motors, but close when they read your post that it's all junk so I'll still correct you if you give misinformation. That is, unless you can substantiate that all Chinese motors are junk (they're not) and draw more current (if they do they give more power for it). Ps: "mouldy king"? Really? How childish.

1) In what way is this different from original Lego PF solutions? Except having a lipo inside and Bluetooth control. 2) The servos I've had have all been hard left or hard right except one which would allow a part steering if you tapped the steering buttons. https://youtu.be/FrKE3Hpxnfk If you use a Lego servo on these boxes though, they behave same as on pf controls, as video shows. 3) True that Chinese servos often just miss the center. But they're cheap and you get what you paid for. I've also had two Lego servos fail to RTC by the tracks in the control circuit rubbing through as this video shows https://bricksafe.com/files/A_morti/fixing-servos/20200905_103333_001_001.mp4 the difference is they cost 30€ a piece whereas Chinese servos are maybe 10€. 4) The new generation of Chinese motors from MouldKing does draw more current. They also give more torque and more speed. And the battery boxes have enough juice to power them. Fair trade imho.

I don't have the later MouldKing box, but the earlier type definitely does not have analogue control for drive or steering through the app. The sliders on screen show proportional inputs, but the box outputs on/off.

The transmission can withstand shifting while driving, with 2 buwizz, 4 L motors, and 3200 pieces? That's seriously impressive. Did you ever try it with 4* higher powered CaDA motors?

+1 You wouldn't share the instructions of a paid-for MOC, and for me this falls in the same category. Even paid-for MOCs have free parts lists. So I see no logical argument against this.

I don't know... It's not got speed like Icarus, but it is dragging 3200 pieces around. I thought it was pretty good. I can't speak to CaDA motors yet, but MouldKing's enhanced L motors are without doubt stronger than Lego's. I can't give you a percentage, but it's about the difference of +1 mode in buwizz for the same voltage. They draw more current to get that of course, meaning 4 of them (like in greyhound and koncept mantis on my shelf) will easily trip the protection on 2* buwizzes.

@LvdH Glad to hear you're enjoying it. I will be too, at some point. I guess it's because you already had the Lego pieces available, but I wonder what a bricklink order of all the parts would cost, if someone desperately wanted to only use LEGO pieces? I guess if the CaDA motors are really ≈2* stronger, the 4* Lego motors you could fit may be equivalent or near equivalent to 2* CaDA motors? I wouldn't want to fit 4 and find the gearbox couldn't hold the torque. Also wouldn't want to put 2* Lego motors and find it couldn't move! @nahpets, don't forget those black axle/pins. Won't find those in LEGO, or maybe from some obscure set for 20€ a piece. Idk. I think @brunojj1 is deliberately staying away from this thread. If mods lose patience and start throwing bans, it's kind of a big deal to him.

Bruno is the sole designer. He has suggested a few mods but from what I can see it's not like the set made it to release with an error that would stop it working. *Cough* osprey. CaDA's pieces are absolutely 100% interchangeable. I have some pieces of Lego, some of CaDA, some of Lepin, and some of MouldKing. All made in different factories, all fit perfectly. For a while I kept them apart but now they're mixed in the same bucket (Lepin panels and beams only, the rest is too poor quality to use).

Eye of the beholder and all that. The flexies on the rear wheel arches can be moved in a few mm by a tip on Bruno's own video. Makes quite a difference to the look.

Ferrari? Who said it's a Ferrari? No no, this is a generic red supercar, sir. It does bear a passing resemblance to the 488 Pista though, since you mention it.

Yes, but none of them are a Bluetooth battery box. There are certainly some arguments the Sian can win, but I think value for money isn't one of them.

Well, honestly I doubt they'll publish instructions for free. CaDA's other licensed supercar from @T Lego has been copied by various unscrupulous Chinabrick companies already. So I guess we'll find out how CaDA reacts.

I'm sure licensing costs something, but $100 per set? And even then, CaDA found money for a Bluetooth battery box and 4* motors. There are various retailers in the German-speaking area who stock CaDA. Sure they'll get stock soon. Please show me how the Sian is something new from the Bugatti, or when Lego released a motorised supercar? Hyundai didn't bring anything new from Daimler Benz, people still buy the cheaper one with more features :)

Update 13/10/2021: @astyanax has published a 'pimped' Red Supercar...  Updated 23/12/2020:  CaDA's Facebook group now has instructions for the static version of the model uploaded to the Files section. It seems fair game to link you there, but also fair that no one re-upload them since, free or not, they are proprietary documents.  https://www.facebook.com/groups/2218777094887398/?ref=share  So chaps and chapesses - are we talking about @brunojj1's latest creation? I'll start then... First up, look at it. It's a beauty. It comes with 2* redesigned L motors which are supposed to be nearly twice as fast and torquey as Lego L motors. There's a review on YouTube showing it drive, and it moves much better than it should be able to, so I can believe it. It has two servos, one for steering and one for a gearbox which is sturdy enough to shift while driving ~3,200 pieces along. Phenomenally, this mechanism also smoothly moves the gear paddles in the cabin. The 3L pins and axle-pins are black. The tyres are really cool. There's just one thing... It's not made of Lego.  It's been properly licensed by CaDA (who btw have never released a model based on stolen IP) from brunojj1. It costs $239 in Germany, direct from CaDA's online store, with 5-day shipping from China. That's $100 less than the Sian, which isn't motorised. For anyone who's curious, or perhaps has questioned Lego's pricing policy in recent times, there's a video on Bruno's YouTube channel, where you'll also find a 5% discount code.  So... Is anyone else talking about it... Or do we need that specific pattern on our studs to feel good?

Thanks for that! I'm not done with mantis yet, but quattro will be next.

Ooh, I'm definitely into this option. I've been hesitating because I don't have the RC motors, but I definitely have enough L motors to make it drift.

Too cool!

In case it helps... https://bricksafe.com/pages/A_morti/konceptmantis/geometry-front-suspension/for-nic/for-jimrask I've been tinkering with the model more this afternoon. I only just realised that the O-ring I added on the drive shaft is acting as an elastomer and making the suspension stiffer (very/too stiff). This revelation came to me while I was fitting a rear diff lock, which I was doing because it had turned a 12t bevel gear from the differential into a 10t bevel gear - also known as a Jesus gear. True but it gets a fair bit trickier when you're trying to build from pictures where every pin type and 2L axle is just black

I think it'd be no small feat to create a buwizz for PU. The plugs are different (and protected by Lego!) and even if you get around that, I'm sure the protocols are very different. So having a 3.0 and a 3.1 seems unlikely to me. The day when buwizz makes the jump, I guess it'll be all at once.

I think during the ~3h live stream Alex (@nicjasno) got as close as possible. It worked pretty well, and was actually pretty steady without much slack at all. As I looked at it on the bench one last time, I realized the ball joints popping off isn't really a big deal as they only want to pop off when the suspension is above where the car decks out. Even so, Lego small ball joints are never going to be as sturdy as pins in a crash scenario, and when you add the geometry you get all sorts of angles and fractions of stud lengths, and you can't brace stuff easily. If you've seen any of Alex's dodge charger streams (or tons of his historical YouTube videos) you'll know it definitely can be done, and made sturdy even for a pretty big car. It just didn't work out in this case. Maybe the very long wishbones were a problem? Or just trying to fit it in the existing mounting points? Not sure, maybe Alex can say.

There are plenty of times when one buwizz can't quite give the juice you want. If you're driving with 4 L-motors like Icarus or Greyhound, or if you have a model with 2 RC motors, then two is worth it. Or if you have something like a crane with so many functions, maybe it's unavoidable. Or maybe you just need to build them in where you can extract them easily if you're only using one at a time in your models? As you already have one, you may want to hold off for buwizz 3.0. not sure what the upgrades will be, but may be enough to make it worth waiting. @Zerobricks, any indication as yet?