amorti

This is brilliant. A 500€+ angle grinder!

Is that dial definitely reading power? I'dhave thought it was reading % of max speed, since that's the feedback the hall effect sensor in the motor can provide. If I'm right, the motors are running just under 100% of their available speed, which I'd say means you've got the gear ratio bang on. Actually, the fact you got it to 100% with the wheels lifted up tells me it can't be power, it must be speed. An unloaded motor wouldn't use more than a few percent of its power just to spin the tyres.

Nope. Let's compare the CaDA model and the Lego model: not Lego - Lego Unknown red supercar - licensed Ferrari 1:8 - 1:10 187€ rrp with Bruno's affiliate code or 147€ without power functions - 179€ rrp 3100+ pieces - 1600+ pieces 4 motors and a battery box - none 4 gears controlled by RC - none Cool looking tyres - same ones since forever Some too-loose pieces - none 6 stickers - 60 stickers So, definitely not the same. You pays your money and you takes your choice.

True. I hadn't got past torque but yes friction could well become an issue. Probably start finding holes in frames and liftarms getting wallered out.

Does the space available allow meshes which would spin the gearbox anything like 5.4 times as fast, allowing the use of planetary hubs? You'd have a lot less torque in the actual gearbox at that point, and you'd be using the new CV joints. The old type haven't busted on me in this model yet, but if I swapped my 2 buwizz in place of the 2 CaDA batteries, I'm sure I could break them.

Very nice! I have kevinmoo's forklift built up on the shelf (might rebuild it actually, was a fun one to do) but yours looks great too, and I like the idea of using that long gear rack as it's allowed the boom to be much slimmer and I guess it would run a little better (not that Km's is bad!)

Looks good!

Very cool how well it gets up and over obstacles

Red 18651 aren't perfect and red 22961 are kinda bad. Other than that there's nothing to see. Sariel also pointed out some red thin 3L Liftarms but I don't see it on mine.

Well done sir, hat's off! If it doesn't collide with anything else, the shocks will be better held by a 5L axle with stop, and two half bushes in the other end. I think one of these guys could hold the ball joint more securely with fewer pieces. Not sure if it would collide anywhere though. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=63869

@Gray Gear you are right, the gearbox can't help with top speed, but it is cool and the main thing that convinced me to build a 1:8 supercar. I learned from the 1:10 Lego Porsche RSR and Madoca's Icarus, that sticking panels together isn't my idea of fun. That said, on this model it was more enjoyable than those, because the connections used were so inventive and the most sturdy and well-interconnected that I've seen so far. So, this one stays as it is. If I want to drive a large model fast I have Koncept Mantis with 4* MouldKing motors. That one is stupidly fast :)

So, I gave it a go. It does run a little faster, however it also introduces a clicking of gear teeth upon first acceleration in the fastest gear. So, time to inspect it and work out what's happening. I wasn't able to catch it in the act, but I found some suspects. You can see there's some plastic dust on the teeth of the differential. This is the only bevel connection with power going through it, and it shows. This mesh blue/black is also showing wear. You can also see some plastic dust on the red gear at the bottom right of frame. These are both clutch gears, which have slop on the axle by design. No idea if a gearbox made of exclusively Lego gears would be better, but I wouldn't count on it. As far as I can tell without deconstructing the gearbox, these don't have noticeably more slop on an axle than Lego gears. Before anyone declares CaDA as China junk, keep in mind that my copy of the model now weighs 2.7kg, and has 4 high power motors (they really are a lot stronger than Lego motors) and two battery boxes which albeit at 8v, are capable of kicking out good amperage. That's a lot of torque for plastic gears to handle. Might be time to quit the quest for more power and speed; I think plastic gears are dropping some pretty major hints that they don't need more power. Maybe CaDA even found this and that's why they sent the model with only 2 motors

You'll see the black pin, peeking proudly out from the top. I think it looks worse overall than the existing solution, YMMV. Thank you. I think it does make sense. I am confident the motors can pull the extra speed and (I think) it's easy enough to access those gears on the constructed car, with less modification needed overall.

Fair enough, if brand loyalty is so important then it's your choice. Unfortunately the instructions aren't available without buying the set from CaDA. Would you go so far as to buy it, use the instructions to build it out if Lego, then sell the CaDA kit on? Because that's basically the only option you have to build it out of Lego. Ps. Don't confuse CaDA with Lepin or any other IP theft brands. The CaDA parts aren't as good as MouldKing parts but are way better than Lepin. But at least you can buy CaDA kits with a clean conscience. It's no different than buying an "off brand" car because it's not got Benz written on it. After all, they were the first, right?

Looks like the angle doesn't match there either, the links are one stud too high. I think... Not quite sure due to the angle. It's something that does need sorting, the steering can't be left with bump steer. Really it wants the steering links attached close to the hub, otherwise you lose a lot of steering angle. How about just using one hard spring on the front of the wishbone? If you're not putting the strut inside the wishbones, why not put a 5L liftarm in there to brace them together? Lose the two thin liftarms as they can limit steering angle a bit. Could be a pair of 5L thins with axle holes at the ends to help retain the shocks.

Or a single strut inside the 6L arms.

As you can see top speed isn't up much, but it is now much happier to start in 4th. Edit: Unfortunately at the time my wife was willing to humour me and hold the camera, the batteries were low at 7.6v. it is a little faster with 8v. Either way, that's a 2.7kg model about moving pretty well, I'd say. Edit again: sorry for potato quality. I think YouTube is still processing it for HD? IDK.

I struggle to decode gearboxes. Will this just influence two if the speeds?

How firm are you on only using original Lego fenders? And/or painting pieces? You can find fenders in a lot of colours on Ali and generally the quality can't be bad enough to make a difference overall.

Look again, it's (mostly/all?) Ball joints being held in. The bar (or equivalent) stops the end of the pin compressing so the ridges can't get into the pin hole and it can't fall out. I hadn't spotted it, but now you point it out, I like it. Smart move, otherwise this would forever be popping ball joints.

Cool project! I used to work for Cunard line, and got to do a tour working in the onboard sales office, all the way from NYC to Hamburg and back. Must be over ten years ago now, but I have some very happy memories of that trip.

Those look like the ones supplied with MouldKing kits. Quality is poor if so, notably worse than the ones in the CaDA set. If you use Lego pins, the side mirrors are fine in both planes. Again, your solution is nice but I fear you're going at this "challenge" a bit too hard :D The fix on the centre mirror is nice. It's fully wobbly per instructions, zero friction.

Looks great! Excellent work on the panelling. Any chance for a video?

Looks really good! One thing though... I think you'll be searching under the couch for a lot of tiny system pieces, when you crash it (not if) ;)

I don't have any RC motors, but I've snapped plenty of CV joints with 4* L motors (Icarus) to know they have limitations. When mine have broken, the head snaps clean off the shaft and stays in the female part.