amorti

Looking good so far. Couple of thoughts: Not sure about an IL8 engine, Show us some more of those axles, what don't you like? Maybe have a look in lpepower's up Unimog suspension video for inspiration? Hard to tell what's going on, so if it would be relevant.

@CalimeroLego if you feel short of confidence, post it as a WIP. You can always get good tips in here.

Looks sweet, nice match to some enkei wheels which seem to be a favoured period mod. Looking forward to receiving my part of the deal, looks like they should be here Monday.

Wonder if it's coincidence that buwizz has the top comment on this video.

There's not as much difference between Buwizz releasing an updated Buggy motor and the above-mentioned Chinese buggy motors as you'd like to think. Especially when it seems apparent by the identical casing, that the Buwizz motor is coming from the same factory as the Chinese copy. Doesn't mean they're identical products. Certainly it's possible buwizz would spec higher quality internals and zero has already stated the case will be different. But, it does leave your moral outrage on shaky footing if buying a buwizz lego-compatible product supports the same factory as buying a Chinese Lego-compatible product.

You've heard of eBay though, right? Cool, then it's not just what it looks like ;) Humbly I submit that presenting a prototype that seems to be in the same casing as a very cheap competitor might be a faux pas. Just to be clear I have no issue spending money on good stuff - I have 2x buwizz and some half dozen Chinese battery blocks in my collection. In theory they're the same; 2.4Ghz remote control LiPo units with 4x PF-compatible plugs, designed to power block toys. But in fact the buwizz are far superior - they have analogue control, they work with BrickController2, the actual batteries are better quality and I've yet to have one fail. Even with the differences, there are also plenty of cases where "good enough" is indeed good enough. The buwizz motor just has to deliver some similar level of "better" to make it a genuine premium product. Although it's hard for me to quantify what performance gains could be offered, I think a lot will be on how well you guys warranty the product.

Nice thinking. @Zerobricks@Sariel It's a nice video, but I think the comparison that would be more relevant is between Buwizz motors and Chinese copies. If people want to buy a buggy motor these days, even the die-hardest Lego fans baulk at 50€+ per piece for a (potentially very) used Lego motor or 100€+ per piece for a new one, with many opting for the cheaper option of Chinese "Monster Motors" at more like 10€ - 15€ per piece brand new. I know Buwizz motors won't cost 15€. So, in what way are Buwizz motors better than that cheaper option? Are they more powerful, faster, more reliable? Let's not beat around the bush... the casings, cable clamp, etc. look remarkably similar to these very cheap motors. You'd have to convince a lot of buyers they're not identical inside, or you're asking us to spend more for the Buwizz sticker ;)

Does that help much? It leaves you with a half stud gap which you can't really bridge. Genuine question, I've never built with buggy motors.

If buwizz or a normal S-brick is still too tall, cheap Chinese bluetooth controllers (MouldKing) are very easy to disassemble and the battery is just plugged in by a normal RC LIPO balance plug. So (assuming dirt and water ingress aren't going to be a problem) you could put the top of the unit where you want, and run a balance charger extension cable to it with either the included battery or some other LIPO 2S battery. This is assuming the battery would have somewhere else to live. Of course, you'd only have digital control. But it would fit the form factor you're asking for.

Changing the wire into the motor isn't so bad but changing the top of the wire into the plug is not an easy thing to do without damaging the plug. Perhaps buy one long extension wire, cut it in half, and use it for both damaged motors?

There's no burning but there is some green, which may represent copper corrosion. In that case the insulation has been compromised for some time and allowed moisture underneath, which corrodes the cable and lifts the insulation off from underneath. Similar concept to rustjacking on cars. Looking at how this has happened in a quite straight line and at the very base of the cable, I'd guess it's where the cable has had a tighter kink in it which has cracked the insulation leading to subsequent failure. Not much you could do really, except be cautious of how much bend you put in the cables. Yes I appreciate that's not a good answer or always possible, but it's all I can offer.

If the insulation wasn't eaten, where did it go? It didn't burn, there's no evidence of burn marks.

We have a winner... Cables can't try if not even connected to a power source.

Was there ever a model team set without steering?

You're probably breaking even with the extra mesh versus the middle gears running with less friction on a frictionless pin, than a 24t on an axle in a pin hole.

Can it be done with 3* 24t gears instead?

Yep, just like that. Easy to brace, no bevels, no 8t, perfect :)

Face one motor direct into the back of a U joint housing (I hope you have metal U joints). Stack the other on top facing the other way direct into the fake motor, and 16t all the way down to the other U joint as you have it. This also solves the problem of no central diff.

https://bricksafe.com/files/A_morti/20201111_195003.jpg Big image. The red beams have to be XL Motors. The gearing can be as I have it, or the other way, or only 12t thick bevel gears. That extra axle length you need... Is there space for a central differential? That gives you the bevel gear you're after, too. Brain fart, I've put pins in as if the red beams would attach on to motors. No, they have to be motors.

I don't have any XL Motors spare rn. But I'll knock something up real quick.

So, face them to each other, put pin/axle into top and bottom of each motor and join them with #2 connectors. Put an axle through those with a 12t black gear. Should then mesh with a bevel gear on each motor? Then same trick to turn the corner to the driven axle. Feels like there's space for 36:12 onto that last axle to get your speed up?

Don't use knob wheels, very high friction. If the motors can face each other, put a 3L axle between them with a 36t gear in the middle. You're then basically already on top of your driven axle, just put a 12t or 20t gear on there and away you go. Edit: ah, you can fit them sideways. Got carried away and thought they'd be front to back.

They're MouldKing Black Furious motors. They claim +30% speed and torque, and while I can't measure that scientifically I can believe it. Greyhound could get up stuff with those in fast that it couldn't get up in ludicrous with original Lego motors. It's also at least as fast in fast, as normal motors in ludicrous. Lego motors didn't give two buwizz any problems at all, but these Chinese motors certainly do in ludicrous, so that extra power they have isn't for free. I also have a couple of MouldKing Black Hyperspeed motors, they claim something like 1200rpm. They have very low torque but even so it's very nippy on a 400 piece buggy. I also have 2* of the new CaDA higher speed higher power L motors. Two of those can propel the 3200 pieces of Bruno's red supercar across the living room at a decent lick, I don't believe for a second that normal L motors could do as much. All those motors are in my various models. I also have some original Lego motors that just sit spare. So slow in relative terms, I don't want to put them in anything!

Looks like you would have the space to stretch the central section by 2L? Then I'd put a 36t gear on each motor, facing down, meeting a central 12t or 20t (again I can't picture the mesh) to drive the axle. Bevel gears seem happiest driven on both sides, they don't usually skip then.

Just realized it's 9 studs inside the frame. You'd have to stretch it to at least 10 to face the motors downward. Driving the axle isn't a problem, use bevel gears. Ofc that needs proper re-enforcing if you don't want teeth to skip. The fake motor could even run on a chain.