amorti

The CV joints work fine if used with planetary hubs where the torque is reduced by 5.4x. It's when you start using them as an ersatz for durable universal joints that you get problems. Specifically about those joints, was a multi-toothed ball like 8088 ever considered? It's a solution that's clearly better at transmitting power than just a couple of plastic dots. The above probably already answer the question, but will we ever get non-planetary hubs for those CV joints? Potentially these could be something with very different attachment points to usual hubs to allow more accurate suspension to be built, @nicjasno would certainly have some suggestions there. Will there ever be motorcycle forks with a front fender or caliper attachment? It's essential for an accurate model, and alternate brand Winner has shown it's perfectly possible.

Nice one. Not sure if you have a physical build yet? But try both pins and axles to hold the hubs, makes a big difference IRL. This solves the only downside of using the pins.

@astyanax for now I have CaDA's normal 3L pins in there and the rear calipers are deleted. They don't have as much fiction as Lego normal 3L pins. There's not nearly enough friction for anything to bind, but it sure did take away a lot of free play, idk if it would bind with Lego pins as I didn't try. IMHO it's worth losing the calipers for the improvement in functionality but I know everyone doesn't think that way. Maybe there's some other solution using minifig wrenches like the Bugatti calipers?

@astyanax could you check something? The slack in the rear hubs isn't ideal, it's all because they're a pinhole mounted on an axle. It's ok as it is, but that wobble is going to stress the CV joints if you start adding more power. If you used 3L pins without friction in the rear hubs to take out the slack, could you then push in half pins with bars to mount the brake calipers back on? For now I just used CaDA 3L pins with friction to take out the slack, but they don't accept a bar and nor do Lego 3L Pins with friction. I don't have any Lego 3L's without friction handy to try it.

That's an extraordinarily overcomplicated steering mechanism. Since you're using the new motors, just take the axle straight from the motor to the steering rack. You can program it to stop when it feels resistance, and to run slower if it steers too aggressively for your preference.

If you build the front edge with 5.5L axles per instructions: If you use an 11L axle: I have in mind that older 5.5L axles were slightly shorter? Maybe Bruno had those ones when he designed it.

When you get to adding the steering wheel, use a 5,5L axle. If you press it all the way into the universal joint a 5L axle doesn't get deep enough into the steering wheel to hold it, or if all the way into the steering wheel then not deep enough into the universal joint to hold in. If it does fall out the u-joint (this WILL happen if you use the metal joint from the set) then you'll have a devil of a time putting it back in. A 5.5L has a stop so that can't happen. The steering wheel then has just a little too much slack. CaDA's half bushes are different to Lego's, which means they fill the gap just nice where a Lego one wouldn't fit. A 15535 in black would also work, wouldn't require third party pieces, and arguably looks neater.

@vectormatic 290€ is scalper pricing. I couldn't pay that. These guys are the European importer, they don't have the motorised version right now but when their shipment arrives it'll be available at 200€ retail. https://www.freakware.de/klemmbausteine/cada/fahrzeuge-w19970 They do have the manual version for 160€ though. The manual version basically just leaves out the motors. It'll have 4 speeds by HOG using what's usually a gear indicator by the engine, steering idk but I guess there's no HOG, and a V8 fake motor turning by the wheels. The shift paddles are there but they don't work unless you do a mod as described above. The motorisation of the set really is glorious, and is absolutely its piece de resistance. It'd be a shame to buy it without that, even if you only ever drive it once across the floor, change through the gears a few times, and never play with it again. Also, the 40€ supplement is very cheap for a Bluetooth box, remote, 2* L motors, 2* servos, 2*LED pairs and 2* extension leads. The motors are significantly stronger than Lego motors.

It might, but that seems unlikely as at this point it's almost a matter of policy not to have a 1*5. Even if they do introduce that, they didn't invent it and have no right at all to protect it. It's like they never heard of Aesop. https://fablesofaesop.com/the-dog-in-the-manger.html

At a fundamental level, it's very much what Lego does. Lego wants to be the only seller of building block toys, at least in the profitable markets of Europe and North America. Sadly for the consumer, they don't want to do it by having the best designs or best quality or value products, they want to do it by making it impossible for anyone else to do business in the sector.

Also none in the two last countries I lived in of Gibraltar and Malta. Even better, Lego doesn't ship to them, so if you want an Exclusive set, you get to buy from scalpers or wait a year or more until it goes general release, if it does. Not ideal for stuff like the gingerbread house which is (as much as toys can be) time sensitive.

Toyota has licensing agreements with Xinyu (HappyBuild) for the J40 Land Cruiser and I believe the AE86. Lego and Toyota is likely off the table.

Lego as a company are a-holes. There... I said it. Lego has entered a European design protection on the 1x5 plate. https://justbricks.de/news/2021/01/hat-lego-die-1-x-5-plate-als-geschmacksmuster-schuetzen-lassen-5264 While Lego doesn't even use a 1x5 plate, cobi has that and it also makes up part of the logo of alternative brick seller http://www.steingemachtes.de This just makes the various hostile lawsuits in Germany over minifigures look silly.

You made a legit 1WD out of it, good work!

Well, 4* higher powered motors versus 2.7kg of model finally found the weak link. The peg in the differential snapped and pinged away, never to be seen again. I decided rather than trying to patch the thing up, I'd strip it to atoms and build it again, as it really was an enjoyable building experience. I decided to fit a Lego differential this time, because there was one available in my spares. However, it didn't run smoothly in the frame. Note the teeth on the CaDA differential (top) are cut at a different depth than those on the Lego differential (bottom). Although the ABS dust on the teeth says it's also not perfect, it's not a problem in the original model, as the angle on the CaDA bevel gears (bottom) is also cut different, much squarer than Lego (top) which takes up any slack there would be from the differential's teeth being shallower. So, turns out CaDA parts aren't always 100% compatible in every situation! I think this is CaDA's prize for trying a little too hard to ensure their parts aren't direct copies of Lego parts. MouldKing bevel gears are much closer to Lego in design, and as far as I can tell are 100% compatible. I think if you are building this and intend to add more power, whether by feeding it from a buwizz or adding more motors or both, you should use a new type Lego differential, and apply the 'modest' gearing upgrade described above by @brunojj1 to compensate for the reduced speed. I'll keep an ordinary diff, as this time it's just getting two motors. I've realized it's never going to be driven outside, so speed isn't important to me, but those two freed-up CaDA pro motors are valuable for other models. The blue 20t clutch gears from CaDA however, are very close to Lego's.

It wouldn't be unusual for such a vehicle to have a lift kit fitted. It'll be a small gain, but putting the M motor with the studs up would give a little extra clearance at the bottom, assuming the hood still closes. I think an L motor is better if it fits, just to lose that reduction inside the cabin but also the benefit of moar powah!

Is it not possible to squeeze an L motor in? Then you could lose that first reduction and clean up the cabin.

@thekoRngear, plug the servo into the battery box and switch it on. The servo will align itself to the centre, then you can set the gear which controls the steering centring to where it wants to be. This is standard for Lego and off-brand servos, but would still be new to you since you mentioned above that this is your first RC model.

They do have such a thing, see here (open in Chrome Desktop browser and translate): https://tieba.baidu.com/p/6854900351 There is often the comment that it's a stolen MOC, and praise when it's a licensed MOC. However I don't get the feeling that anyone is basing purchasing decisions on that. There is a lot of pride in designs from domestic MOCers such as Kevin Moo. There doesn't seem to be any loyalty to Lego, although that may just be because it's an off-brand forum, idk. Lego is even expensive to us as Westerners. If you can buy an equivalent knock-off product in China for something like quarter the price also without international shipping, it's definitely going to be tempting.

It is, and it's been done pretty hard in the corresponding thread. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/180308-brunojj1s-mind-opener-red-supercar-free-instructions-now-available-for-static-version/

+1 That's a pretty spectacular fail. Please host your pics on hotlinkable services such as bricksafe, so we don't have to click through to external sites.

@thekoRngear 1) Mine says 14+. 6+ sounds unlikely to succeed. 2) There are quite a few spares including some panels. Not sure there is an official list. There's a parts list at the back of the manual. 3) Watch Brunojj1's YouTube video and follow the link for the quick-fixes, or join CaDA's Facebook group and in the download Files tab get "C61042_instruction_0-1.pdf" & 0-2 & 0-3 for those fixes (and fixes to some other small errors in the instructions) in a complete instruction format. Use a 5.5 axle behind the steering wheel instead of a 5L. You can put an axle through the frame below the differential and into the back of the bottom gearbox "ear" to keep it aligned while you build the gearbox. That's going to save a lot of annoyance at keeping the gears in line! Use metal universal joints on the rear axle instead of plastic universal joints. Up to you for the steering wheel joint, it's not necessary but it's there. 4) Use the twisty-ties from the motor cables' packaging to keep the cables tidy on the car. The instructions are fairly clear on where to run the cables, and it works as described. 5) Yes - always charge lithium batteries before use as this will balance the cells. Takes an hour or two? IDK exactly. If you plug it in right away, it'll be ready in good time to test the functions during the build. 6) The fixes are all you need, especially if you get the 0-x instructions, which will help a lot especially if you're lacking experience or confidence.

I guess you mean the conrods are crossed-over? You'll need to get the fake motor out for the repair but it's not going to be too hard. There's so many gaps in the set you can probably do it without removing the bodywork.

If you're using it with buwizz, there is no Chinese servo which can do proportional steering, actually holding a middle position like what you want. If you're using it with Lego digital controllers, there are some which allow you to part-turn, then return, without having to hit 100% turn first. But it's hit and miss as to which they are, even among same manufacturers. https://youtu.be/FrKE3Hpxnfk There may yet be hope? Afraid I don't know much more than this video shows, though.I can only say that the white axle hole suggests this is a new type of Chinese servo. https://youtu.be/GOmWUtu3Qas

Close enough for government work. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-53002/timtimgo/42111-vintage-custom-pickup-alternate-build/#details