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PorkyMonster

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Everything posted by PorkyMonster

  1. PorkyMonster
    I like this idea! As for the "classifications", perhaps some generalization would be useful, less confusing, and easier to include new "acts of terror" in future, for e.g. Custom Decoration (to include custom stickers and custom-colored/chromed Lego pieces, even include custom tyres and lights) - Rationale is that these actions merely "decorate" the otherwise pure Lego models in harmless ways. Lego-fitting Custom Pieces (SBrick, BuWizz, 3D printed parts, etc.) - rationale is that these were created (in whatever means) to fit nicely with existing Lego pieces without causing any damage. 3rd Party Electronics (RC Class Electronics, motors, servos, etc.) - these serve more functions than mere "decoration", and they don't fit nicely with existing Lego pieces. If parts modification is needed, additional classifications like HC4 will be necessary. Lego Parts Modification (cutting/gluing Lego pieces, modified Lego electronics, etc.) - these actions harm Lego pieces, full-stop. Just an idea .
  2. PorkyMonster
    So far, I have only two objectives: (1) enjoy the exploring/designing/building/optimising process, and (2) create something that is highly playable (in terms of speed) and durable, to be able to last for months (at least), or until I decide to embark on something new. To meet (1), I chose Lego and I tend to use as much pure Lego as possible due to its versatility. However, to meet (2), I have used some non-Lego parts (mainly to replace the PF components). In future, if my objectives change (e.g. to build instructions? to compete in contests? to build highly authentic and detailed display sets? etc.), or as TLG comes out with new/better parts, I’ll probably adopt a different position along the pure / non-pure spectrum.
  3. PorkyMonster
    For a full-time 4x4, the entire drive-train has to endure immense torque and pressure when travelling on flat surface - it is just not meant for that kind of terrain. Many Lego models avoided this problem either with separate motors for front and back, or do away with differentials and gearbox. However, for your model, since you have connected two differentials plus a gearbox (all being potential points of weaknesses) within the same drive-train, I can't help but suspect that somewhere, somehow, at some time the built-up stress must be let off . Have you considered including one or two 24-teeth clutch gear (the one that slips to protect all parts downstream when the torque is too high)? Alternative is to turn it into an AWD... with lock only when going off-road...
  4. PorkyMonster
    Looking at the space u have, an alternative is to double up - use two rows (separated with beams) of 8t gears instead of just 1. Also possible to increase the number of columns (i.e. have dummy columns of 8t gears), although this could add to the frictions. These are two methods I often use in my models whenever gear skips/grinds.
  5. PorkyMonster
    Connecting RC receiver/esc to Lego motor and servo is likely possible, but if you connect high voltage you might burn them rather quickly. Yet, if you limit the voltage you probably won't get much "kick" . If you decide to go all-the-way and use RC motors fit for that scale (i.e. a 540/550 brushed, or even brushless), you can find ways to mount RC servos/motors from threads by @JJ2 or myself (I'm sure there are others too).
  6. PorkyMonster
    There is this saying: If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together. Some people stick to what Lego provides (i.e. "go together"), while others have no qualm integrating Lego with 3rd party components to achieve what pure Lego cannot achieve (i.e. "go fast"). First group focus more on innovating using existing parts, while the 2nd group take on the challenge of seamlessly integrating native and non native parts. And between these extremes, there is very wide spectrum of choices available (e.g. 3rd party components that are already Lego-compatible). So I'm of the opinion that whatever Lego comes up with should not affect our desire to create and/or model - we are instead setting our own limitations - how fast/far do we want to go?
  7. PorkyMonster
    What a way to sum up . But I guess most Lego models don't require much attention in this area for two simple reasons - they're (1) not fast enough, and (2) not run long enough, to see any serious effect.
  8. PorkyMonster
    Unfortunately, this "negative camber" caused by "positive caster" effect is only apparent when the vehicle is reversing. The opposite camber effect happens when advancing and turning. The difference in camber behavior between advancing and reversing could be due to body roll. Slack in parts will aggravate the problem too due to lateral friction between tire and ground. This is probably best solved with progressive camber.
  9. PorkyMonster
    When turned, I saw positive camber rather than positive caster (not sure if that's what @Aventador2004 meant) on outer wheel. This is normal for models without KPI, camber and anti-roll mechanism. About the stair jumps - I think speed / weight ratio is the key factor here, more so than the length of a vehicle although a longer one with sufficient ground clearance will "appear to" jump better - simply because the steps are relatively smaller.
  10. PorkyMonster
    That'll be the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) - allows for the fine-tuning of acceleration (e.g. burst force) and brake (e.g. pulse braking for stability, strength of drag brake, etc). Basic ESC + brushless motor pair can cost a mere USD25. But of course, you'll also require 3rd party transmitter/receiver (probably another USD20 or so depending on brand)... not expensive at all considering the fact that you get way more torque and speed, and the control distance gets to hundreds of meters .
  11. PorkyMonster
    Build to the scale of the wheels - that's perhaps the most logical/reasonable point. PS. that said, I like to lay my hands on huge wheels .
  12. PorkyMonster
    Looking at the end result, "fantastic" is the only word that came to mind If I'm going to choose between building this or Lego's Porsche (42056), I'll pick this a hundred times... LOL
  13. PorkyMonster
    Here's a matching servo way smaller than Lego's servo...
  14. PorkyMonster
    I have none In fact, cheap brushless motors and associated parts can be more readily available than buggy motor..., and the challenge of integrating them with Lego pieces (without destroying them) opens up a fresh new dimension of Lego-ing!
  15. PorkyMonster
    I'm no purist for sure, but I have mixed feelings . I agree with @Boxerlego in that in the end, are we going to end up with just Lego body/shell, and everything else 3rd party? Replacing the PF components is one thing, but replacing other pure Lego parts like suspension arms and differential would be quite a different thing altogether. Perhaps it'll be more fun for us to take this as a baseline, and endeavor to build our future models with LESS non-Lego parts while retaining or even improving on performance . PS. Perhaps I'm a HALF-BAKED PURIST
  16. PorkyMonster
    Thanks On using non-LEGO parts, I just didn't want my creations to be bounded by LEGO's limitations. And with things like SBrick, BuWizz, 3D printing technology, and the fact that RC components by LEGO itself are rare and old (not to mention expensive), I suspect that what used to be a simple "parts from LEGO vs parts from elsewhere" will become "parts that can be integrated easily with LEGO vs parts that don't"...The former draws a clear-cut line, whereas the later opens up a whole new world of opportunities and creativities without diminishing the role of LEGO as the key enabler - the fundamental "ingredient".
  17. PorkyMonster
    With earlier method, the 3L thin lever began to slip after some time... then I tried doubling to 2 x 3L levers (possible because my actual implementation uses 4L axle instead of 3L), and while that managed to stop the slippage there, the 4L axles began to slip out of instead ... that was why I decided to design this new method.
  18. PorkyMonster
    Just to share that I've found another, even more secured, way to keep the CV-Joints from separating: Note that this is only useful for people building models with varying/progressive wheel camber... otherwise, the axle joining the CV-Joints should not move in and out.
  19. PorkyMonster
    looks really fun - was actually hoping those propellers would "jump into actions", like propelling the vehicle forward or prevent it from leaning too much sideways...
  20. PorkyMonster
    Some people may not like it, but I'm all for 3rd party springs, like this: It's cheap, smaller, and we can go for ANY strength . Can also incorporate some dampening effect by inserting a half bush right above the spring!
  21. PorkyMonster
    Wow! that's a very open-ended question . Nope, I have nothing to offer other than to 'trial and error' and see what fits, be it detachable or not. As for website loading time, have you compared using different browsers and/or different pcs?
  22. PorkyMonster
    They're similar - Eneloops are 2000mah Nimh batteries too (so by connecting double sets of 6 cells, I get minimum 7.2V @ 4000mah)... only difference is that I use them as individual cells, while yours are soldered into a pack. Soldered packs will have less resistance and are able to provide larger current draw at any time (at the expense of run time, though...), but that should only affect the acceleration time, not the top speed. For best acceleration and speed, we ought to consider Lipo packs .
  23. PorkyMonster
    Not really... The smallest model I've built using a 540 can-sized motor actually used these wheels and measured about 45 by 20 studs (which is 1:13 to 1:12 in scale). The main reasons that my recent models were huge is because, *ahem*, (1) I like big models, (2) I prefer to incorporate as many steering geometries as I can, and (3) also that I chose to use Eneloops AA cells (6 of them to make up min 7.2 to max 9 volts) rather than Lipo batteries - resulting in the need for separate batteries for servo and motor, and also doubling them for usable amount of Amp (still, only up to about 10 Amp) (total AA cells required = 20).
  24. PorkyMonster
    Is your servo properly centered? From the ONLY picture, it appeared that at rest, your pinion is not resting at the middle of your gear rack. And if the outer wheel turns more than the inner wheel, either you really have toe in (just not visibly noticeable), or you've steered too much (happens when your steering link, wheel pivot and steering pivot forms (too close to) a straight line) - try to limit your steering angle.
  25. PorkyMonster
    yup, that'll be another kind of fun . personally, i think that's possible, and someone will come up with that sooner or later...
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