PorkyMonster
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Everything posted by PorkyMonster
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btw, use two half-bushes or one full bush, instead of one half-bush (mistake in my picture above) to fill the gap between the two CV-joints. I'm sure that after this, it'll be impossible for those joints to pop out of their sockets, and you'll see how strong they actually are... -
You can check out this old thread too - One post within mentioned that the signalling protocol used by Lego's RC unit differs from other 3rd party RC controllers even when they're on the same frequency.
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I think you'll have better luck posting in RC forums... not here...
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I will add one more 20t gear, and fill the gap between the two cv joints, as follows, before trying anything more drastic:
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I came across this website some time back, which explains bump steer quite clearly. This figure (taken from that website) illustrates the various possible positions and lengths of tie rod (aka steering arm) that can be used in order to have zero bump steer. And for ackermann, you just have to position (i.e. translate horizontally) the steering arm closer to the vehicle centre (if behind front axle), or closer to the wheel centre (if ahead of front axle).
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General Part Discussion
PorkyMonster replied to Polo-Freak's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I think you're right as far as we're comparing differentials alone, but the newer differential still has some advantages due to its footprint - can fit into the 5x7 (or similar) frames and that greatly reinforces the whole thing. I just tried your idea, and modified the middle differential of my model with both the 1L pin connector and a 4th gear, and indeed, the number of slippages dropped even further!! And the trick to putting the 4th gear in easily is to ease it in together with one that is adjacent to it . EDIT: Oops... further testing resulted in the 4th gear falling out... would have been great if there is a way to hold it in place... -
General Part Discussion
PorkyMonster replied to Polo-Freak's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Not as well. Two movements that cause the 3 half-bevel gears to increase in gaps are undesirable here - (1) that of the half-bevel gears sliding along the axles, and (2) the axles themselves independently and relative to the differential casing. Two half bushes can fix (1), but not (2), whereas the 1L pin connector can fix both problems. -
General Part Discussion
PorkyMonster replied to Polo-Freak's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I've always thought that this is useless, other than for decoration, or to fill in spaces that could otherwise be filled with bushes. Other than that the use of this would waste an otherwise useful pin connection point. Not anymore - I finally found a place that this piece fits perfectly well, and no other pieces can take its place - to strengthen the old differential, as follows (in red): Apparently, the old differential and this 1L pin connector seemed to have been made for each other!! -
@MattL600, do u have two of these? if you have, then you can modify @Didumos69's gearbox (just take the gearing portion): to use the parts you have - it'll be more compact and gives the same gearing ratio, i think. Most importantly, its arrangement allows for stronger bracing of all gears.
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Btw, you're doing a RWD or AWD? because i don't see any differential between the front and rear axles... Also, the use of knob-wheels to combine the power from two XL motors will produce squeaky noise very very very soon...
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Usually, distance between the front and back wheels of supercars is around 2.5 to 3.5 wheels... mostly 3 though... otherwise it'll look weird... BUT, who knows? there's a first for everything... and how you design the body matters a lot too...
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Test Poll
PorkyMonster replied to Jim's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Now we all know who failed mathematics in school... -
New pieces are 3-stud long, whereas yours is 2-studs - so shifting from one end to the other takes only 1 stud movement, while it'll take 2 studs for the newer ones. I think it all depends on implementation - different methods can make better use of 1 or 2 studs movement. And yours will be sequential regardless of what you use - only 2 speeds - 1 to 2, 2 to 1, how can it be not sequential?? But if you're thinking of more than 2 speeds, and sequential, these old parts will still work. I can't advice you on your 3rd qn... really dependent on what you plan to build and your budget... most importantly, there are often many different ways, using different parts, to achieve the same functions...
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Hmm... in that case you can try synchronous gearbox... but you'll need more gears, as follows (click image for the lxf file): Again, this is just a rough guide... you'll have to figure out how to properly brace the parts involved.
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Which pieces? Any picture?
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Which means you can only do non-synchronous gearbox... see if you have the parts for this simple 2-Speed design then: Just something I created to show you the basic parts of a typical AWD drivetrain using 2 XL motors... for your reference... you can copy partially or entirely, up to you. But you'll have to figure out how to substitute parts you don't have, and brace all the parts properly... otherwise it won't be fun .
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Test Poll
PorkyMonster replied to Jim's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I'm using chrome... not working either. Can vote multiple times, but can't see any result. -
is trial and error THAT scary? I do that all the time... build, tear down, rebuild, tear down, rebuild again, tear down again... ... ... LOL but to test which gearing works best, one way is to build a prototype - ignore the form/beauty, just build one big ugly chunk that is roughly the size you're after, with batteries included, must have the exact wheels you're going to use, but need not have steering and suspension, then build your motor and gearing as an easily replaceable attachment. so when you try to drive that "chunk", you'll more or less get a good feel of the gearing you like... after that, then tear down and rebuild everything properly with the final gearing.
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No one can advice you on that without knowing the size of your model... Be adventurous - try out different ratio and see what happens first hand.
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Yup, motorised is definitely more fun. Nope, if you want 4 wheels to be driven while having multiple speeds (implying you'll be having a gearbox), go for Awd rather than 4wd - i.e. add a 3rd differential in between the two axles. Otherwise you'll put a lot of strain on your drive train. Depending on the size of your build, battery boxes can go behind the seats and in front of the rear axle, or take the space of the boot (basically we want them located low, due to their weight). Another possible location is under the dashboard (but only feasible for larger build). Motors are likely located in the belly or under the seats, while transmission is likely right along the drive train in the middle. Btw, how many motors and battery boxes do you plan to use? PS. My next build, the one I mentioned earlier which might have shooting mechanism, will be driven by 4 L motors and powered by 4 battery boxes ... but that'll wait, as I'm still having some fun with my other more immediate build, using 3rd party motor , right now.
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Hmm... I would build whatever features I want to play with (rather than what others think should be included) - things like AWD, fast with good suspension and steering geometry/angle, look good (personal taste), sizable and durable, etc. But if you look at other supercars in this forum, features many people include as basic are fake engine, transmission, connected steering wheel, stiff suspension and low ground clearance, plus good look. And if you're more game, you can also include stuff like AWD, some steering geometry, hog steer, adjustable spoiler/wing, adjustable seats, and motorize the whole thing.
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Speed is quite interesting at that scale... Assuming the model is 1:10 scale, does it mean its speed should actually be multiplied by 10? Some websites claim that instead of that, we should just multiply with sq root 10... in any case, the "real" speed would then become either 373 or 118 kph... in either case, it'll be fast enough for such "wings" to have some effects. Also, air should be denser lower down...
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Pros and cons... they probably want their own thread to discuss about improvements/features... However, I do see some values if we have this thread just to consolidate all the max speeds, along with vitals such as wheels dimensions car weight gear ratio types and number of motors (along with their control and battery units) distance before reaching max speed, and summary of key features that might contribute to any improvement link to their individual threads for further discussions This way, there is one single place to look for speed records, and make quick comparisons on the merits of different configurations, while leaving car-specific discussions to their own respective threads. So this thread could be renamed to better reflect this... Of course, feel free to ignore my post if it doesn't make any sense
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That's great! Now here's another idea - since traction is not an issue, how about adding some "wings" along both sides to provide some air lift that'll increase along with speed? Can use those flatter ones, like: and and end up with This will lighten the entire car and reduce rolling resistance, while not adding much to air resistance. Who knows, the car might actually "take off" .
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This problem pertains to "caster wheels" - those used by shopping carts, wheelchairs, office-chairs, for e.g. rather than "wheels with caster angle" - car front wheels, for e.g. Here's another quote from the wikipedia site on "Caster Angle": ...The shopping trolley/cart setup has a great deal of trail, but (somewhat confusingly) no caster... "Wheels with caster angle" has a tendency to align with the vehicle's body even without forward movement, so when the wheels are turned, they naturally want to return to the straight position. This behavior is very different from "caster wheels" - which simply follows the direction you push (regardless where the vehicle is facing - you can experiment by pushing a shopping cart at an angle while facing the front), and is why you require additional return-to-center mechanism (the fact that your rear wheels are fixed in one direction helps a bit).