JJ2

Good start but I agree with the others, It's just begging for independent suspension.

It looks very good, one thing I dont like is the gap around the headlights, would a system wedge fit there?

Nice progress, you will need to place some liftarms on the inside of the build to keep the wheel sections from separating from the main chassis Probably on the 5L part of the frames where they join

They will give the tires more grip to the Rims, I have put wheel foams inside 9398 style tires that have always slid on the rim and they barely do that anymore.

This sounds interesting, count me in One question, is there a scale limit and can you use foam inside tires to make them grip better? I'm pretty sure almost everyone has some type of foam.

My crawler uses 2 L motors for drive

I think this is very cool, it opens up a lot of possibilities like having a VR headset hooked up to one and driving it via the VR with the robots camera for sight instead of a typical remote. One downside I see is the low voltage, I don't think the Moto can supply the voltage needed for anything large and it much drain the phones batty very quickly. Maybe you could have an external battery that charges the phone while using it for a robot

I took mine apart and sprayed the inside with Lithium grease, they are noticeably quieter now. The stock ones only come with the smallest amount of grease and they causes most of the noise.

15: 10 23: 6 20: 4 19: 3 24: 2 29: 1

There have been some other threads saying this too, I think they started changing them in to not have a switch in mid 2016.

Very cool replication of the original, the front looks really good but the back I think needs to be covered up by some plates.

@benxz That looks amazing, great mod for this great crawler

+1 I find that really annoying, it's actually a requirement with using NCS and royalty free music.

I would not recommend a 4S lips with 14.8V since Lego motors are 12V, a 3s would work fine with 11.1 volts. I don't think the receiver can handle over 9 volts so maybe go with a RC grade ESC and a FLY SKY remote-reciever, I use that remote and its very good for its price. The RC motors internal motor is a 280 size guessing from its size so would use a dual motor ESC like this one, or this one. With those parts you can have really long range and you can control the motors speed better then any Lego IR.

I look forward to seeing it Drifting in the dust was really fun, If you have a smooth surface like cement and its a little dirty you can drift everywhere. I agree with what your saying, there is a lot of non-Lego in this, I think this is the limit of how much RC I will be using in Lego build's I think any more would feel like I'm building a lego body for a RC car. The reason I used non-Lego suspension arms is because the top links are about 6 1/2 studds long or more and the 1/2 stud meant I would have to make a very sturdy suspension are with a half stud offset and I could not figure out how to do that at that time so I just went with it, I am not happy with the front suspension arms either, they had slack in the way I mounted them which meant it would deform making the car drift left or right. I plan for my next build to only contain bearings and a few printed parts (Like bearing holders) , and most likely a PF battery box.

Thanks The video is finished

Yes http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/pipasseyoyo/Baja-Racing-Buggy/model3d_baja_racing_buggy.lxf It is in LDD so you can see how its made

What type of suspension, independent, live axle. I'm guessing independent so I would recommend something like this You could adjust the suspension arm length to make it the right width

I don't have a buggy motor, but I have this so why would I buy one

I like that idea

The gear on the motor is a plastic double-bevel 12T from Lego, it has held up marvelously and does not show any type of wear, I put grease on it every once and I while to keep it running smoothly. On the original prototype the gear driving the diff was a Lego 12T and since they are so weak they ended up breaking every 5mins so I went to a cad program and designed this, I have it in plastic because I'm not sure if metal printing tolerances are good enough for a small gear, but I have done doughnuts with the car and it has worked perfectly. The shocks on the front are actually from a cheap toy-grade RC car from a garage sale that I picked up, they are not fluid filled so still bounce around a lot.

Thanks, that's exactly why I am using 3rd party parts, I was sick of putting a lot of time into a build for it to be sluggish when driving You don't know the power of the dark side The screws go through some pins with studs with the stud cut off and it is a nice fit, there is some play though. The pins are exactly the same size and the inside of Lego pins so the fit really good. The bearings are 3/16x3/8x1/8" size, the motor has the gear on it going to a 36T gear mounted on my bearing 5x7 frame that goes to the two differentials outputs that are also on bearings that then go to the hubs which also have bearings. The model totals 14 total bearings, 8 for the 4 wheels (2-per wheel) and 6 for the differential brace. My next project will use these https://www.shapeways.com/product/B9JJB2UAP/bearing-mount-3lx3l?optionId=61981868&key=19385873447ca56a6028d59c7088ed70&li=shop-inventory

Hello everyone, This is my newest creation, it is my forth MOC using non-Lego parts in its construction. I started this project when I bought some rear and front hubs from the Traxxas Rustler to try to fit them with Lego, it turns out that the rear hubs are almost exactly two studs wide and the front ones are about 1.5 studs. I also am using 2.2" wheels with the hubs, they are really grippy and are much better then Lego ones. Unlike my last MOC that had a full body with almost no gaps which ended up weighing about 1/4 the cars weight I went with a more simple design to save weight. IMG_1453 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1454 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses Traxxas 550 12T motor for drive, Hitec HS-322HD servo for steering, a hobbywing quicrun ESC 1060, a FLYSKY FS-GT3B remote, and a 7.2v 2000mah battery. IMG_1455 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1457 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It has full independent suspension on the rear and the back but the back uses Lego dampening springs to stop it from bouncing around during high speeds. Unlike my older MOC's this uses bearings for all of the drivechain components to stop friction, in fact without the motor mounted I could free-spin the wheels because of the low friction. With no surface to rub against no parts were damaged on the drivechain except early versions of the parts to adapt the Traxxas universal joint to Lego. IMG_1467 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1468 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The total drive ratio is 9:1 with the 12T gear on the motor going to a 36T that goes to another 12T to the 36T differential, this gives it a lot of torque and acceleration. When I designed the chassis I wanted to place the heavy components as low as possible and the motor ended up the same level as the bottom plate with the battery just 1 stud above it. Because of this I can turn at high speeds an it no flip over, there were a few times I would hit a large bump or rock in the road and it would simply skid around not flip. IMG_1458 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1459 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The steering on this is much better then my last ones and has a pretty good radios for its size, I am using a rack and pinion setup with turnbuckle steering links that allow me to adjust the toe-in or out, I set it to have a small amount of toe-in and with that it can stay going strait for a long time at high speeds. I have used a GPS app on my phone and it says the top speed is 24.9mph or 40kph

You can not use an app to control Lego receivers because they are infrared not Bluetooth or WIFI.