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JJ2

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Everything posted by JJ2

  1. JJ2
    For some reason after this update I can't see poll's or votes anymore... Anyone else notice this?
  2. JJ2
    Awesome model, very nice details for the scale.
  3. JJ2
    I have never been a fan of pull back sets and this is why, it's overpriced and ugly...
  4. JJ2
    In this picture you can see the 3D printed motor mount I used, it was designed by Efferman to hold 550 sized motors, I'm not sure if it will work with brushless motors but I think it will. The rear is very simple with just a 12T gear mounted to the motor, I can make a tutorial on how to do it, and a 36T follower. Then it went into a 12T single bevel to the 36T differential (also by Efferman) That totalled a 9:1 ratio which is a ratio, not enough speed that it is too fast and enough torque not to over stresses the motor. I would recommend using the 5x7 frame with bearings because compared to my other models without it this one ran very smoothly and did not damage any axles.
  5. JJ2
    I have spent a little more time actually cutting out this from the picture but we can see the glorious return of the #3 red connector, at least if they do not change it Lego #3 connector Red by JJ2Sam, on Flickr
  6. JJ2
    It seems like everyone is overlooking the red #3 connector on the grill... Because that for sure looks like one to me.
  7. JJ2
    Haha thanks, it was not really hard to drive it was just that my road is really old and is very bumpy which made going at top speed almost impossible, in fact the video was shot with it only going at about 50%-75% throttle so I did not hit a bump and wreck it (again)
  8. JJ2
    I don't mean to be a party pooper but where do you see the 36T differential? I don't see it, also it seems to use portal hubs not a planetary hub.
  9. JJ2
    Same here
  10. JJ2
    Yes that's true, I see now.
  11. JJ2
    Yes I meant caster. It will but the shorter the top wishbone the more pronounced the affect, admittedly the ones on this MOC were not short enough and most likely did nothing but if you have a 3L wishbone on the top and a 5L on the bottom that will introduce camber, they do it in real cars all the time. Thanks, I agree the grill does look a little off, I could have made it better but it served as an access port to the front suspension if something went loose so I kept it simple (and ugly)
  12. JJ2
    (1) My next MOC will use some camber. what do you mean with the worm gear? (2) No, having shorter upper wishbones adds negative camber when compressed which helps traction but I'm sure you already know that. Awesome I'm looking forward to seeing more of your MOC's, also thanks, you were an inspiration to me also. What is wrong with the hubs? try disassembling them and adding healthy supplies of grease inside, it will soak in the part so you will need to re-grease it in a day then it will be fine, that's what I did. Here are some spoilers to my next MOC but they will use hubs from the Traxxas rustler. Here is the rear assembly and the front assembly, the rear hubs are almost exactly two studs wide and the pins to hold them are the same diameter as the inside Lego pins so if you screw them into a pin you can use Lego beams as wishbones. The front caster blocks will need to be drilled out to fit the larger pins since they use smaller ones but that's no big deal. These wheels are the cheapest ones I could find that are high quality but you will need to widen the center holes to fit the Traxxas parts. The parts are cheap on RC planet but you can also buy them on Amazon.
  13. JJ2
    Very, I over polished one but it still works as well as the others, they have much less slack when they have the lego CV parts but I only have 4 of them so I could not put them in the front.
  14. JJ2
    Thanks, I count a total of 16 non-Lego parts, 8 of them are 3D printed, 3 are aluminum (all used for bracing) and 5 of them are electronic (not counting remote) Yes the steering range is low, I did use a 20T-16T gear ratio to make is slightly larger but like you said the small radius made it much easier to control.
  15. JJ2
    Hello everyone, This is my new MOC, it is my third creation using non-Lego parts. Without the body was the fastest out of the three going over 20mph-32kph but with the body it only went 17.4mph-27.9kph which was included in the video. This project was started when I bought the 8880 style hubs from Efferman on shapeways and evolved to also use the non-Lego electronics. I also used the high torque differential, 550 motor mount, and the CV joints for the 8880 type joints, designed by Efferman. This was also my first creation to use my custom designed part, the 5x7 frame for bearings IMG_1130 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I went with a lime and black color scheme on this one to give it a pop of color compared to my other, more bland creations that are white and black. IMG_1131 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I worked a lot on the front to make it look menacing like most real supercars often do. IMG_1132 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr With the custom hubs I was able to make the gaps around the wheel very small but still have it where it does not bind. IMG_1134 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I covered up the bottom to stop dirt and other debris from getting inside the gears and motor that would cause the parts to wear faster and also shorten the life of the motor. IMG_1150 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Here is a picture with the tape and body removed. I mounted the motor and other electronics as low as possible to keep the SOG low for better handling. The gearing is 9:1, there is a 12T gear mounted to the motor and a 36T going into my 5x7 frame with bearings, along with lithium grease, that made the drive chain have almost no friction. With such low friction the motor almost never got hot and no drive parts were damaged even after me driving it on a bumpy road and some crashes. IMG_1149 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The hubs seem to have blended into the background in this picture but here you can see the rear assembly, I made this creation modular where if you remove the two black beams connected to the two dogbone pieces on each side the entire rear axle could be taken for maintenance like regreasng if any was needed. IMG_1148 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1146 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front axle was nothing special, just two wishbones with different lengths and so on.... The performance was good but it did tend to pull left or right dew to the slack in Lego parts, but there is nothing you can do about that... Finally the video
  16. JJ2
    Looks cool, do you have enough parts to build it?
  17. JJ2
    That's probably why mine are breaking, when I only have limited space I bend those wires to fit the space.
  18. JJ2
    I have pretty much broken both my M-motors, a Servo motor, and a XL-Motor, all because the wires are bad :(
  19. JJ2
    Looks good so far, I'm not 100% sold on the minimal body, I would recommend placing a 1x7 red beam under the headlights.
  20. JJ2
    Best creation I've seen all year haha This creation is mind blowing, It's amazing that you have build something so large but still functional.
  21. JJ2
    Awesome build! I love to see these types of creations that are out of the box.
  22. JJ2
    Looks good, did the differentials ruin the performance? What happened to the video?
  23. JJ2
    Thank you I updated the 5x7 frame to fit 3/8 x 3/16 bearings because the 5/16 x 3/16 that is was originally made for are a lot more expensive on amazon.
  24. JJ2
    Merry Christmas, I did not get any Lego either, I guess I'll have to buy some.
  25. JJ2
    These gears will not work inside the lego differential, they are flat on the back making them not fit or stay in place, they are mainly to be used for meshing with 20T and 36T gears. Also the 20T is usually not the one slipping its the diff itself.
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