Appie

The 5L liftarms are used on top of the fake engine, near the 5x3 panels. It will be very disruptive I think if these are any other colour than orange. I also don't have any #1 connectors in orange and I use 6 in white, all 6 in spots where it will break the "orange flow". If I switch all red parts to orange too, I will miss a couple more: again the connectors ( and the ones with axle hole as well) and the pendicular axle/pin thingies on the side with the lights on them. If I'd build it now it would be 90% orange, but those little parts would annoy me quite a bit, especially on the engine cover (2x 5L liftarm and 4 #1 connectors there). I got an idea for a different background I'll try tomorrow when there's better lighting.

Thanks. Currently looking into swapping the main colour for another, but it's a little more tedious than I expected. Orange would be sweet, is doable and I have most parts, but the parts I miss are rare on BL (5L liftarm says hi) and those parts have to come from abroad. I don't think I will have them before the deadline of the contest to reshoot a couple of photo's with the new colour (I think I will like it). I then looked at blue, but the panels I use above the fake engine at the rear don't exist in blue Neither in green. Looked at bright green, but for that I seem to be missing some other parts, like the very small panels. I don't want to alter parts, because that would mean I'd have to redesign the B-model too. Other options that are doable are red and black Perhaps I will just use another background to make it pop more for a couple of photo's.

I actually don't think a V2 handpump will have the 1 stud wide thing on the bottom like the cylinders of V2 pneumatic, perhaps if they made 2 studholes below the pump, but that might make it longer. One stud wide hole on the bottom would be rather flimsy. It still has to stand solid to be played with. I actually think, that if they release a V2 handpump, it will have 2-3 studholes on the side of the pump, allowing you to mount it easy on a liftarm and pretty secure to be played with.

Looks awesome and nice functions. Let me see if I can fix your video issue (then just quote my post and copy-paste the code)

I actually hope for a new V2 handpump, since the rest of the pneumatics went "V2", this should too. I need better mounting options than 1 freaking hole in the bottom and a bottom suited for regular Lego plates. This handpump was fine in the old days, but for studless, not so much in my opinion.

Thanks. I did consider putting in Zblj's ackerman steering solution he used on his forklift for this, but the angles looked a little off to me. And would result in bigger wheel arches to accomodate the pendular+ackerman. So I decided to use the default Lego steering. Thanks alot. I am glad you like the B-model too. It grew on me as I progressed building it. You're right, the lift mechanism of the forklift is as small as I could make it while keeping it sturdy. Half liftarms might have reduced it a stud in thickness, but would also mean much less sturdy. I don't think it's completely out of scale though. My inspiration for this model were heavy duty forklifts and I saw quite a few images on google with a pretty thick forklift mechanism. Thank you. Yeah, the background doesn't help for these models, you're right. I honestly don't know why I picked white for the model, maybe because after the batmobile's blackness I needed the complete opposite? I'll give a different colour scheme a whirl and see how it plays out.

Both my 42030 I bought for 165 euro. Considering it's a 1600-1700 parts that means I got both for 10 cent/part. That was indeed the most expensive set of all I bought, but that came with ALOT of PF. Both my 42043 I got for 160 euro, 2800 parts and among those no cheap parts either (Pneumatics, PF, panels). Well below the 10 cent/part guideline. That some people can't hunt for bargains and go nuts over the suggested retail prices from Lego is not my problem. When I hear a 300 euro price tag, my second thought is: ok, I will find that in no time for 250 euro or less (really no time at all: the first 42030 and first 42043 I got on launch for those prices). Same for the BWE. Already know I can pick that up at launch for about 30-40 euro's below Lego's suggested retail price. Of course if Lego decides to only release the IP car on their site and Lego stores, that will make it more difficult, but then it will be one of the rare sets I buy from Lego directly and I really couldn't care to pay full price for one set when I get every other set for at least 20% off the suggested Lego price. And again. The 10 cent/part is a guideline. A guideline I think Lego really follows, at least for most Technic sets (the 42009 and 42043 are about the only exceptions). Vectormatic asked what people could do with a set of 300 euro worth of parts, I provided an example of one of Sheepo's models. Of course less people are likely to buy a big set of 250 euro or more and it might hurt Lego's profit more than it will benefit from it, but going by this forum, seems plenty of people want UCS Technic sets. Which is probably why Lego is giving it a try. It might backfire, it might not.

Thanks. One picture I forgot to add. How I routed the hoses around the differential and the wheels: The grey ones are basically curving inside the inner wheel rim (not touching obviously).

Sheepo's Mustang was a 1:8 scale car (which is about the scale of the 8880 as Tibivi pointed out). Without PF it had 3500 parts. Following Lego's simple rule of 10 cent/piece. That would mean a 350 euro set. I can see 300 euro easily doable for Lego, even considering that the IP car most likely won't break the BWE's new record for part count,

Thanks. I don't know if I'd call it skill, it's just me messing around mostly. But sniper attack? I think I even mentioned it in my Batmobile topic that I'd use this time off from the Batmobile to perhaps work on a TC9 entry. These 2 models came to be rather quick. I basically had the A-model and a general idea for a B-model in my head while working on the Batmobile, so the whole thing was up in an afternoon. Except the steering. The most basic of all functions took me the most time , because I really didn't want to compromise and the fact that the crown jewels would be suffering in that compromise played a part in that as well

Great vehicle, love the style. It's a pity it isn't faster, but that's Lego's fault with their motors, not yours. At least it can climb very good.

Well here's my entry for the contest. I wanted to play a little with the new pneumatics so: A-Model: pneumatic forklift. It features: - Fork lifting of course - Fork tilt - Hog steering and functional steering wheel in the cabin - 4 piston boxer engine driven by the front wheels with differential - Pendular rear suspension - Forks width adjustable (manual function) Couple of images: I don't like cutting original Lego rope, so that's what you see in front of the front wheels. I used about 70-80cm of the 1 meter rope. The 8T gear in front of the seat was something I'd rather not do, but the 12T bevel gear for the drivetrain is right below it. The hog steering axle going right through the middle of the chair is also something I'd rather not have, but in the given space I had 2 choices: place the chair a whole stud forward and have it be too close to the steering wheel or move it a full stud back and have an axle sitting right in the middle of the chair. I decided on a compromise with the chair slightly angled. I used this part in the top of the chair so it wouldn't touch the hog axle, but still made both sides of the chair connected. Fitting the pneumatics with the drive axle and the steering above the drive axle meant I didn't have much room to play with, but it fits perfectly and to protect the pneumatics from the drive axle I added a 2L pin connector and 1L liftarm to the drive axle. Pretty straight forward manual function. I wanted to make the forks foldable too if I couldn't fit in the 10,000 stud limit, but considering the model is 34x14x17.5 (that .5 doesn't really show properly in the images, but the forklift mechanism is about 1/2 stud of the ground) I didn't bother with folding forks. So then the time came to make a B-model. Time to duplicate the main model so I knew for certain I had all the parts: The parts in front of the left one are the things I didn't install when I rebuild it, because I either forgot (diff) or bricklink came later (pneumatics). B-model: Bucket truck I really don't like making B-models, but I think this turned out ok. Of course there are things I'd like to do different, but that's the challenge of a B-model. It features: - Bucket lift (why do I even list this ) - 4 Outriggers - Hog steering - 2 cylinder boxer engine - 170 degree turning crane (manual function, radius only limited by hose length of pneumatics) A couple of more images Outriggers are handled by the small pump, I wanted to use both, but the lengths of hoses I had left were a limiting factor. Doesn't really matter, using the 16L axles to power the rear and front outriggers was already planned and I tried the system with 2 small pumps and they weren't able to really lift the model either, not more than 1 pump managed. One pump manages to get the wheels to have slightly less friction. Speaking of friction. For the outriggers I had to switch some pins on the A-model for LBG 2L frictionless pins to make it easy for the outriggers on the B-model. This change isn't shown in the photos of the A-Model, but can be seen in the images of these 2 models together (6 are easily visible on the front wheels of the forklift) and in the video. No parts were added. For every LBG pin added, one black pin was removed from the table. I find no fun or challenge in cheating the rules of the contest. I also didn't want to use more pins than really needed, where 2 were enough to fix a liftarm, that's what I used on the A-model. I already expected that re-using the A-model's hoses would be a problem, but it worked out ok (even for the turning radius of the crane). Ok, I cheated Lego's current hose code a little (2x black on 1 cylinder is old hose code), but the grey hoses were too short or far too long (which I used on the handpump). Speaking of the handpump, thanks 2LegoOrNot2Lego for your handpumps on BL, both used here Not intended, but this model fits in the same box as the A-model: 35 studs long, 13 studs wide and 17 studs high. A and B model and the parts remaining: Of course I'd like to have made a roof for this B-model, but I didn't really see how anymore with the parts I had left. I then decided to make an open truck like the old american fire trucks. Not that this is really intended as a fire (bucket) truck, but I can't deny that with the white and red it could be used as such (maybe reverse the colours). Here's the video of the models. I combined both into one video: Thank you for your time reading this topic and in closing this image:

Considering Considering every supercar released by Lego has been around 1400 parts, I would already be quite pleased if they made the set have more than 2000 parts. As for the price, PF most likely. I don't think license fees play alot into this. This isn't Star Wars, Lego Technic is closer to free advertisement for these companies. I didn't really see license fees in the price of the Unimog, Arocs or Volvo either.

Well if Lego is making a front engine supercar it pretty much has to be an Aston Martin (or perhaps a Mercedes SLS?). I hope it's an Aston. If I was going to make a supercar, I wanted to use that car as a base, Lego might save me the throuble? edit: Oh wait, there's the rumour of the car brand being a 2015 set. Yeah, that probably means Mercedes/McLaren SLS then. Which would be freaking awesome too. I love the gullwing.

Aww memories. Great studless version of a little classic.

Very nice indeed. I like how you used 2 of those huge panels from the A-model on the sides of the engine. Very clean B-model. It's that your A-model is slightly more awesome or else I'd consider this the A-model

Don't think it was set as a rule, but using it makes it easy to see the model's sizes? Some entries can probably do without since counting studs is pretty simple. Harder would be for models with angled lift arms for one of the 3 dimensions where such a box would come in handy.

Nice video's. I didn't notice this earlier, but the fork can't touch the ground without tilting? As in: fork flat on the floor?

Don't care much about the cost, I just want it functional Buggy motors are great fun, but without the proper RC unit to go with it to deliver power the failsafe on battery boxes will kick in after a minute or 2. I saw a Ripsaw with buggy motors made by Barman last year and it was awesome, but would overheat the PF battery boxes in a few minutes. Another problem I have with buggy motors they would eat up so much space that I don't know if I can manage much of the other desired functions to fit in this bike wheel scale. Maybe I'll build a second one with just normal driving and use buggy motors Thanks for the idea. While it looks very solid and gives alot of options, it also means I am building 4 studs above the wheels and my max is really 3 studs with these bike wheels and that's already pushing it for scale. Wheels would be too far apart too with a 3L wide motor in the middle.

Doubt it will reduce the weight, but figured 4 L motors would be able to move the model even if contact isn't optimal. I expect this thing to weigh as much as Sheepo's Mustang which works all right with 2 L's. If the test fails I have no idea how to power the wheels and the only other idea I have then is to cheat: the 4 arms doing absolutely nothing and mounting 4 small wheels under the chassis (where the tank switch mechanism is now) for drive and steering.

I'd like some more pictures of the tow truck, but it looks pretty cool. Cute especially

Thanks. I am afraid the next update will take a while. The past week I got a steering mechanism that I was pleased with. Had a couple of ideas to implement the 3 steering methods and thought this was the most solid. Except upon testing with wheels attached it became obvious that my biggest fear of the wheelarches being too weak was true. So weak in fact that all the twisting and bending would make any kid cry. The XL's rip the stuff apart. Downgearing won't help, because even when switching between tank and normal mode the wheels just stand where they were, too much friction. Off the ground the thing works fine, but that's not the purpose of this model. A belly shot of the crab switch mechanism. The springs function as support for the mechanism. While building this I figured I made use of a L motor for just this function to save the servo some stress, since it takes quite a bit of force and another reason was that I'd be able to crab steer in "normal mode". The steering mechanism, while attached to 4 points on the arms and braced on the chassis it is still too flimsy, it can't overcome the friction of 8 bike tires and makes a 20 degree angle at best when trying to turn with the model on a surface. So basically I had 2 options: make the model never touch the ground or take from this what I can and improve. Three things I can see that I need to improve is - Can't have drive through the top of the arm, need that space to make the arms solid. - Can't have steering locked on the top either, it's flimsy in whatever setup I come up with - Crab steering switch is going to need power and alot of bracing to move the wheels out by force (or come up with a mechanism that turns the wheels upon switching) For the first one I actually had an idea when I first made a post for this model when I said I couldn't mount motors on the sides of the wheels like the real thing and then I wondered: or could I? Something like this is pretty easy to fit in the current shape of the chassis: L motor with a classic wheel against the rubber of the bike tire could work. And with the nice mounting options of the L motor I could also make this my connection point for the steering, which makes it lower and more direct, so that should fix point 2. And removing 2 mechanisms from the top means I got plenty of space up top to reinforce the connection point to the wheels, which combined with the mounting of steering on the side of the wheel should help with the 3rd point on my list as well. Now the reason why I don't start on this right away. I am just going to let it sink in a while (month or so) and hopefully get some feedback/ideas from here. Meanwhile I am going to focus on some other stuff that has been going through my head while building this, like a TC9 entry. A mind that is sidetracked on different models, doesn't really help when building this

Nice model. I really like the dashboard and seats (colour is good imo).

I actually didn't bother to test the rubber part suspension, just a concept. In fact I have tried to use that part a few times and was always replaced with better parts. I have seen my other suggestion with the spring on top of the wishbones functioning as suspension/anti-sway in a model of Erik Leppen (that's where I got the idea from), worked perfectly. As for testing, who knows what they do. I am happy when stuff doesn't break when using its function. If Lego goes further and tests what weight suspension can 'squad' or if a model survives a 2 meter drop. I doubt it. Anywho, what's planned for the b-model?

Good test Still wouldn't use it myself, but at least it can take a kid's abuse.