Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About bogieman

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Cargo train
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests


  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I love the MZ, nice work. I was a new engineer at EMD when these were built, my boss got a trip to Sweden to participate in the testing on the cab noise levels - these were some of the first locomotives built with isolated cabs.
  2. I'm using a USB Bluetooth 4.0 adapter based on a Broadcom chip. 12 is the maximum I can connect - if I try to add a 13th they all disconnect.
  3. I just finished testing with my non-upgraded Hubs No.4, I connected 11 of them and all worked as before so nothing is broken, at least with train motors, WeDo 2.0 motors and LED's. I upgraded one hub and it works along side the non-upgraded hubs so all looks well to me.
  4. Thanks for the positive reply. What I was thinking was to treat the LED as a motor and linked to the adjacent motor control so when the motor is commanded to go forward the light gets a forward full on motor signal and it would get a full reversed polarity motor signal when reverse of the propulsion motor is commanded. This would require splicing in to the Lego LED wires 1 & 2 between the plug and the little mid-cable junction box as that seems to light the LED's in one polarity regardless of the input to it, at least that's how I think it works. Hope that makes sense.
  5. Hi Cosmik42, I love your software, I've now have a 24" touchscreen monitor to use to control my Lego layout. Thanks so much for creating this. A couple of suggestions I'll put out there for your consideration: I have a steam loco with a WeDo 2.0 motor on a Hub4 but it runs in reverse due to the gearing setup when commanded to run forward. Could there be a check box on the hub setup page to reverse the direction of the controls for motors? When a motor is set up as a standard switch, could there be a similar check box to reverse the right and left action? Perhaps the right and left directions could be called straight and diverging. Also, could the buttons change color when pressed, so the last one pressed becomes green and the other changes to red and they maintain the colors when the focus changes away from those buttons? It would make it easy to see which way the switches are set. Could each switch have a user entered name rather than just naming the hub? Would it be possible to allow repositioning the hubs on the screen, rather than having their position set by the order they are activated? Being able to arrange the hubs in two rows, for example one for locomotive controls and a second row for switch controls would be helpful. For locomotive light controls, could the LED polarity change when the locomotive direction is changed? I'm thinking I could wire the front headlight LED's to be reversed polarity from the rear, so they would light in the direction of travel when the operating direction is set or I could use bi-color LED's that would change from white to red based on polarity. I've been taking the LEGO 88005 LED set and cutting off their LED's and adding my own 3mm ones that fit much easier. Not being a programmer I don't know how much work this entails but I wanted to make the suggestions. I've run up against a 12 hub limit on my Bluetooth adapter which is based on the same Broadcom chip that the one you posted uses. When I try to add a 13th, the connected ones all disconnect. I've searched for ways to have two adapters on one PC but haven't found any way to do that. Do you or anyone have a workaround to add more than 12 devices? Thanks, Dave G
  6. Just finished reading this thread. It's interesting that you've found self-centering couplers to be a solution. Not sure how versed you are on NA railroading but all freight cars and freight locomotives are equipped with what are called alignment control draft gears that the couplers pull/push on and pivot from. The draft gears are designed such that at at a small angle of rotation of the couplers, at about 4 to 5 degrees rotation or so of the coupler relative to the draft gear, the draft gear imparts a progressive restoring force to keep the coupler near the centered position. This is necessary to prevent "jackknifing" of the train during application of independent air or dynamic braking on the locomotives going down grades. As it is, the RR's still have to limit the total dynamic brake force generated by the lead consist to avoid jackknifing, with DC traction locomotives generally 20 operating axles, less with AC traction. This is part of the reason why heavy haul RR's use distributed power, where the locomotives are placed at intervals within the train. Because passenger locomotives haul short, comparatively lightweight trains, alignment control draft gears are not used on those cars and locos. This has caused problems when delivering passenger locomotives dead-in-train at the head of the train - I can remember at least two derailments when we delivered F40PH's to customers via freight RR's. Switcher locomotives also do not use alignment control draft gears because they don't typically have dynamic brakes and it can be hard to couple to cars on a curve because the coupler has to be forced to angularly align with the car coupler. Dave
  7. bogieman

    [MOC] Logging Lilly Fork

    After the simple mod, it behaves likes it's a train motor so the PUP remote controls it like any other train. Here's my Shay, I changed the color of the stack for the model Murdoch posted otherwise it's a complete copy. I really liked the dark green, brass look, and brown so just stuck with it. It's really impressive how smooth it runs; I thought all the gearing would sap all the power that tiny motor generates. Shay Locomotive by David Goding, on Flickr
  8. bogieman

    [MOC] Logging Lilly Fork

    The last post currently on page 15 you link to is mine after I made the switch inside the motor. Was really easy to do, hardest part is getting the motor cover off without destroying it.
  9. bogieman

    Powered Up - A tear down...

    I just did a similar mod on a WeDo 2.0 medium motor used in a locomotive by just unsoldering the wire on terminal 5 and soldering it on top of the wire on VCC terminal 4. I didn't touch the resistor so restoring it to it's original configuration would be easy. WeDo 2 Motor Rewiring for Trains by David Goding, on Flickr
  10. bogieman

    [MOC] Logging Lilly Fork

    I need to thank you Stephen for the design of the Shay and Roadmonkey for this designing and posting this neat train. As soon as I saw this thread, I had to build that locomotive. I found the lxf file of Murdoch and ordered all the parts 10 days ago. Last night I assembled it, the trucks were a challenge (mostly I think due to the way LDD ordered the assembly sequence) and it runs great with a WeDo 2.0 motor and PUP hub. I too am a mechanical engineer so the visible spinning gears and crankshaft were really appealing. There's an operating Shay at the Hesston Steam Museum, not far from me, that I've seen and marveled at, so it's great to add one to my layout. Now to figure out how to hide the hub and to make the hub think the WeDo motor is a train motor. Dave
  11. Thanks for sharing your files Thorsten, I ordered the parts last night to make a couple with the PUP motor. Dave
  12. Thanks, I've searched but hadn't seen that, does look pretty simple.
  13. Thanks so much for developing this software, Cosmik. I'm seriously looking to purchase a 24" touchscreen monitor to incorporate for controlling my layout. A while ago you mentioned you might add support for 4DBrix. Is that still on you list? Although I don't have any of their products yet, their switch motors seem like a nice solution.
  14. bogieman

    MOC: Flying Scotsman (with free instructions)

    I agree it's very nice, thanks for sharing the instructions.
  15. bogieman

    Powered Up Rechargeable Battery Mod

    I just took the PUP motor and spliced the PF motor into the motor wires about 2 inches from the plug. I used a connector that I could plug in reversibly so I could reverse the polarity to get the direction correct.