Nazgarot

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Nazgarot

  • Birthday 06/20/1981

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    Technic

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    Nazgarot

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bødalen, Buskerud
  • Interests
    Lego (Technic), Martial Arts, Computers, Electronics, RC Vehicles, Mechanics

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  • Country
    Norway

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  1. Do you have a multimeter? If you have, measure the voltage of the battery box, and the impedance of the motor. The motor might be shorted, or there might be something wrong with the connection of the motor itself. There is also a small noise Capacitor on the motor that might short out. -ED-
  2. 1: I did in deed connect 4 x XL motors to one diff to test what it could handle, and it has no problem handling the torque. I did however in the end decide to use two buggy motors instead as they have a lot higher RPMs. That way I avoid a lot of gearing to get the speed I wanted for my model. I did however make many iterations with 4 XL motors with a common input to both diffs. 2: This is the point I was making about easier steering. I've made several designs of high speed tanks with one set of motors pr belt, and do to difference in speed of the motors it is very hard to steer them. That is why I started designing this diff. I use them in an adder/subtractor gearbox where a extra motor is aaplied for steering. This extra motor will add speed to one output while reducing it on the other, while the main drive setup gives a common input to both diffs. Sariel explains it very well here: http://sariel.pl/2009/01/subtractor/ 3: I have tried using v2 Recievers, and it you use one V2 pr 2 XL motors it works if they have individual battery boxes, but it makes for a very heavy model. You could also direct connect them to two battery box with a switch controled by a smal motor or similar to power on or off, but you loose all speed control this way. After some testing I decided to go for a BuWizz in my high speed builds. For a more normal tank 4 XL with two V2 receivers and 2x traditional battery boxes should do the trick. use on output on both recievers for 2x XL and on of the other for a M that you gear down for steering. Then you have an additional output for other functions, and you can add another reciever to the other battery box for turret control if you need it. In this case the weight might even bee a positive in making the tank behave realistically. Steering, turrets and other functions normally requires very little int the way of power and can easily be combined with 4 XL motors in a 2x battery box setup. -ED- Edit: If you really want to use "clutches" and brake the tracks for steering there is options using the diffs as clutches as well, but it will not be as reliable as a adder/subtractor... You could for example design a mechanism that physically brakes the diffs, and them release the brake on the side you want to reduce power on. this would be very similar to an adder/subtractor gearbox, but would seem more realistic while still not damaging any parts, or applying undue force to the motors. I used a similar mechanism in a mechanical two function sequencer, though that was automated... see this thread for ideas:
  3. I would suggest making a drive train where all four motors are direct coupled and delivering drive through a adder/subtracter gearbox. motors being direct coupled is not a problem. It's only at no load situations they have a significant speed difference, and under high load they will all be using their power to move the thank rather than fighting each other. No motor moving a heavy model like this will ever reach it's top RPM, so the extra heat generated by direct coupling them will be negligible. Take this from a electronics engineer... I've done this for tank iterations I've made, and it removes any problem with motors running the belts at different speed, as well as giving much better control. It does however require a fifth motor for steering. You will quickly find that a traditional diff can't handle the load of two or in my case four motors. I designed a diff around the large turntable to solve this problem. See pictures below. I'm currently using this design with two buggy motors on a ripsaw based moc I'm working on, so it should be more than strong enough. Just be very careful with the gear placement as it is easily possible to get one or more of the planetary gears out of alignment when you close up the diff. It should have no undue resistance when you test it. I know this solution requires a lot of space, but on a tank of this scale it should be no problem. Design for placement of the diffs can be a bit hard, but I suggest placing them vertical to the tracks so that you can have a up gearing after them to the drive sprockets. This solution can be a bit hard when it comes to delivering power into the diffs as right angles in a drivetrain with 4 XL motors is always going to be a weak point. But if you can solve that you should have a very powerful drivetrain that gives you a very gradual control and a lot of power to the tracks. -ED- Edit: Sorry. The pictures above is a old design with a fatal flaw. It's almost impossible to dismantle... The picture below shows the evolution I've had on this design, and the leftmost design is one of the newest and solves this problem as well as using fewer parts. the internals are still the same though... And the following picture shoves the same design in real life. I've made one more iteration on who the turntable is connected but have no pictures available.
  4. Your spot on. That is exactly what I'm going for. Unfortunately I'm having trouble fitting a diff without using illegal techniques. -ED-
  5. Tyre change sounds good. It'll add to our creativity as well. This should lead to a good set of models for my car transporter :) -ED-
  6. I at first was very disappointed that no kind of offroad tires where allowed in this competition. But my creativity is triggered by limitations so now I actually have two ideas I'm gonna try to bring to fruition. The first will probably not qualify, so I came up with this second idea. I love to make my models as mechanically realistic as possible within a certain scale, so I started thinking how can I build a car with full independent suspension in a realistic way with only legal parts and techniques. I got an idea for a very special car that has a simple but still hard to realize independent suspension. This is my first fumbling attempt on making a chassis for it. It will be a tough challenge, as it should be, and I have no idea if I can recreate the bodywork, but I'll at least try! Sorry for the really crappy LDD picture. More will come as I find time to realize it with real parts. Question: These tires have the exact same dimensions as the 43.2 x 14 Solid tires refereed in the information topic. Are they allowed? -ED-
  7. If you have a look at the video you'll see that there is a boat hull its buildt around. A very good idea with a great execution. This is one of the most original "floating" build I've ever seen! Really good work! -ED-
  8. Nazgarot

    Question about a white clutch gear

    If possible I would suggest increasing the clutch-force by gearing up the clutch input and gearing down the output. This way there is less torque working on the clutch. This in addition to parallel clutches could help. -ED-
  9. This is really really good! I can't praise it enough. Very good work! -ED-
  10. I've been using a similar solution to simulate valve movement. I find the movement not smooth enough for a piston, but it works very well as a camshaft when timed correctly to simulate valves opening and closing before and after compression. But props for the compact design! -ED-
  11. Nazgarot

    [TC17] MAD MUSK CYBERTRUCK

    Nice moc of the Cyber truck! But I can't see what's Mad max about it... It is one of the best representations I've seen of the Cybertruck in Technic, and I especially like the apparent simplicity of it. It reall is within the spirit of the Cybertruck. Nice build! -ED-
  12. Nazgarot

    [TC17] FrankenBase

    the size of the monster truck must be of by a scale of at least two... But a truly amazing build! I can't believe how smooth this moves or how strong it is! For a model this size it's exceptional. Very good work! -ED-
  13. Nazgarot

    Lego Hydrolics

    I found it on e-bay, and they ship to Norway! :) I'll have to way for new tax rules to take effect in April, but I will definitively check them out then. -ED-
  14. Nazgarot

    Lego Hydrolics

    I also used the old one way block to pull water into the old pneumatic system. I even made a firetruck after the 8868 came with a compressor... I love the idea of this. And I hope there will be the posibility of a hydraulic motor as well. That would be perfect for heavy machinery where it is hard to include motors, like the rotation of excavator buckets. -ED-
  15. Nazgarot

    Black Interceptor

    Wow! I didn't even see that it was a Lego car in the first picture! This is a truly amazing model! It really captures the original in all aspects. Somehow the simple shape is broken up just enough to make it seem a lot more flowing than it really is. That is impressive design work. -ED- PS: From the thread name it doesn't seem to be a contest entry...