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About Marxpek

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    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record


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    The Netherlands
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  1. conveniently bumping my topic with pictures and some background information when the voting starts ;) this was supposed to happen 3 weeks ago but some changes where made to the contest so this was delayed as well. The most complex about this build was bracing the buggy-motor and the differential in a compact way, i wanted all axles to be double-braced to prevent gear slipping, which is pretty hard with the power of a buwizz and a 90 degree mesh, but it works very well! Looking at the competition using a diff is rare, but since i designed this to be used on asphalt with big tires, it needs a diff, no diff would have been much easier and maybe even faster in a straight line, but i wanted it to be agile as well. The car is relatively heavy since it is heavily braced in multiple directions, i wanted it to be solid, the only part that ever came off on a severe crash, is a rear wing. I wanted the car to stand out in color, the orange with yellow details really makes it pop and all the kids in the skate park wanted to play with it, so i think the colors work well for this design. I also made sure the car was balanced, making sure it will jump straight, the COG is exactly at the hinge point of the rear section, which is the center of the car, making sure it jumps straight and lands on both wheels at the same time. I realize i am very much the underdog in the competition, not having the amount of followers of other entries by well known builders/youtubers, so if you like my car and video, please consider voting for me so i might end with the last 10!
  2. Thanks for the kind words, but to talk like the most famous technic youtuber: this is NOT a Lego set, this is NOT for sale, i might consider making instructions tho, however it is pretty basic in design. well it performs better, but it is not for the competition, using 2 buggy motors is bending the rules a bit too much i'd say ;) besides that: this design might loose a part or 2 upon crashes, my urban buggy is built way more sturdy and will not lose any parts on crashes. I know it is fairly easy to edit out losing parts so i have no clue why there the -10% rule for that @Ron1 ? However most of the time you can see by the build quality if it will loose parts on crashes/ hard landings. @Didumos69 Are you still entering? i'm pretty sure you are secretly working on something! ;)
  3. Lovely build and scale! Good luck in the competition! Next time: take pictures before racing outdoor ;) your servo looks pretty banged up.. a good sign in my mind but not great for pictures :)
  4. I'd like to present my latest BuWizz creation: I like to think of it as a tribute to my beloved 8366 and 8475 sets, which I never get to play with, because i need their motors for other projects, projects like this..It also explains the somewhat cheesy name of the car.. This is a 8475 / 8366 hybrid on steroids and the most fun i have had with an RC car in ages! Here is the video: i hope you like it!
  5. As a dutchman you should know: oranje boven! 😁
  6. @Ron1 then the right thing to do is to pull all submitted videos from your buwizz site and send all participants a mail they can submit their video again when/if they still want. So everyone can decide if they still want to enter the contest like this or update their video. I planned my video to be visible a maximum of one week prior to the deadline wich you messed up bigtime. So please remove my video from your site and i will decide later if i still want to enter and give away the rights to my video.
  7. to be honest i do not think YOU will have to worry about points ;D if you enter the greyhound, you have my vote for sure and many others with that is my guess and if the contest would close now, all serious contenders would automatically enter round 2 since there are no 10 real entries at the moment... some double posts, some only modded existing Lego sets, or even used someone else's MOC (rm8's moc was modded and presented as his own at first) Don't get me wrong i would love to get beaten by your greyhound and i really hope you will enter, I doubt it will jump as good as mine, but your design wins by miles! Also good luck to all other (new) entries of course!
  8. That would be highly unfair to the ones that did take the effort to make the original deadline. I am not happy to hear it 5 days prior to the deadline but i fully understand why it was done. The voting should start the 31st like the rules state. That way the people that took the effort (i worked hard to make it in time) are rewarded for posting it before the original deadline. @Ron1 are all the rules final now?
  9. I was not aware they are lighter and softer than the Unimog tires, esp. lighter would be very helpful for jumping, i do not own those tires, but i foresee a few problems: - they seem bugling out from the rim a lot, most likely they will not fit this frame and steering setup, clearance is at a minimal already (front and back, to compare: the claas wheel will work in the back but not in the front) - the rounded edges of the tire will probably make the car more likely to roll sideways when cornering fast, (maybe the wider tread compensates?) and i like how it handles right now. Also ordering them and shooting a new video is not really and option with the 31st as a deadline, the skatepark is always very crowded, i went there once at 07:30 am and once with -9 celsius, that gave me some room to play and shoot some clips. It already was a strain on my sleep to build, film and edit it all within the deadline with the little spare time i have, but i'm happy with the result,
  10. Today I present my Buwizz fast car competition entry, I will let the video do the talking:
  11. I see this is turning into a battery conversation and it already started people making unsafe constructions @sirslayer ... just get a battery holder for 8 aa batteries (or a 10 holder and use rechargeables).. even aa's can start a fire when used badly.. It was not my intention to making this a battery thread, there are plenty of them around. The real buwizz arrived and i have been testing with a car that has a 20:28 (differential) gear reduction using the fast output from a buggy motor, driven by unimog wheels and a servo for steering, a pretty fast and fun setup, that demands a lot of current. My conclusion is that my DIY setup is comparable to the normal setting on the buwizz, not the slow like i initally guessed ( my Lipo always was fresh off the charger giving 8.4v) most likely after a while my DIY solution will run a bit slower due to voltage drop, while the buwizz most likely can regulate this better. Theoretically the buwizz can handle 3 buggy motors but i have not tried that yet, while the sbrick can only just handle 2 from my experience. Buwizz was the winner at first glance and it seems to stay that way for now.
  12. Here is something i created to test if it is worth it for me to buy a buwizz. The s-brick has a brick built case around it, to replicate the Buwizz design. The battery is a 7.4v LiPo ) i had this in the attic from my abandoned rc plane hobby. THIS THING IS DANGEROUS! sorry for the caps but really do not do this unless you are sure what you are doing, shorting or puncturing batteries like these can start a fire instantly, this one can deliver 34 amps, wich is insane (about 10 buggy motors) and never needed in Lego just in rc plane motors. Nothing was modified, not even the battery, the battery wires are just wedged between a regular plate and a 2x8 lead plate, taped to the LiPo. So this basically replicates a buwizz on slow settings, i do not dare to hook up a 11,1v 3 cell LiPo to the sbrick, the sbrick can handle the 11 volts but the LiPo fully charged will deliver something like 12,6v not worth the risk to me. This battery obviously has more amps then what the buwizz battery can deliver but the sbrick here is the weakest link, the buwizz will allow for more amps used and more importantly it will give that beloved 11 volt, which my creation lacks. My conclusion is: i want a buwizz..
  13. The buwizz has great advantages over the rc unit, weight and voltage makes it a clear winner and with the same amount of rc motors and a similar design a buwizz will always win, but making anything out of Lego controllable (and control it) at that speed is an accomplishment and by no means easy.. time for me to get some buwizz... After testing i will adapt the design as always, maybe 4 wheels, but i will not add a extra rc unit for the same amount of motors.. It also is exactly what i suggested as my best option if 3 wheeled skid steering works, using 2 controllers, but not looking forward to work 2 controllers while riding a bike at 35km/h, but.. whatever it takes.. @TechnicSummse since you invested in rc parts now, did you also invest in a gps device? ;D
  14. 4 wheels give more rollresistance and weight more, however with the motorized front it might be different, i'll see into it. The 4 motor finished design rides pretty straight, but it does not like big bumps.. the other is unfinished I think it will be pretty hard to run the motors at 12 volt with a Lego solution.. ive seen a 18v version wich was pretty complex/dangerous but all Lego..
  15. i considered this, to prevent this, or partially even it out, i was planning to crosswire the motors and maybe use a frictionpin version of a limited slip diff between the rear axle, of course this only works with drag steering. not with electrical steering (in wich i have little faith but will most likely try) i have little faith in air rudders, it is just another way of causing drag, and my guess is it would need quitte a big surface and thus be bulky, so no i have not tried it and i doubt i will, i say: convince me! hey perma welcome to EB and the thread, im using rc units here, if you read the thread you can find out more ;)