bonox

Eurobricks Knights
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About bonox

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    Technic

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  1. if i've got parts, i'll build combination of real and virtual. If I have new ideas and don't have the parts, i'll use the digital model to work out what to buy, but I don't always get it right first time in the virtual. Some of the tools in stud.io are helpful in this regard, for example finding things that have limited support. (attached by one stud for example is a useful tool). When building for real and finding things that need to be changed, remodelling the digital model is called 'red pen markups' in the old terminology and can be a bug bear, but needs to be done if you want to follow later or share.
  2. very impressive. The scale is certainly slightly intimidating, but it's really nice to see people tackling the stuff that most people don't with the big cranes - the extended jibs and the Y guy arrrangements. Bravo Sir.
  3. I get the theory, but the (fake) photo shows a stud too big to do that - it's the diameter of the stop ring, not the stud. And I don't need any fingers to count the places where that would be the only solution
  4. more to the point though, what would you use it for? It serves no purpose I can see
  5. i'm not sure there are any - they were incorporated into the instructions for sets that included them, so try looking for those. It's essentially make sure the transmitter is assigned the same channel (from 1 to 4) as the receiver you're trying to control, then move the controls. If you want it to keep going, or want graduated speed control, use the train controller.
  6. What lovely memories of my '71 IIA. The coloured knobs on the levers triggered thoughts of lots of fun times. Mine were much more faded though. I too would love to invest in your instructions if you choose to make them. Great model; well done!
  7. join a lug, scour second hand ads, put out wanted ads, buy from aftermarket (ebay, bricklink, brickowl) or just plain buy from the factory.
  8. you need an electric pulse. An old lawn mower breaking points style magneto will have about 6-8 volts on the primary side and via a coil, comes out at 300-500V to fire the spark plug. You could generate pulses with a small timer circuit and a battery or just a hand switch if you don't need speed, but you're going to need a coil to step up the voltage to your pair of wires. I should add that a general purpose spark ignition engine commonly has about 15000 volts on the secondary side of the coil. more compression tends to need higher energy impulses.
  9. does it do the same thing if you use the train controller and wind it back from the problem side?
  10. I can already hear a legion of fans reverse engineering it....
  11. the picture shows a configuration that does allow the ends of thepin to "expand back", meaning the build is "in system" and will have no longer term issues if the picture doesn't make sense in your head, try building it.
  12. any luck with the factory response? Response from LEGO SHOP 17 November 2017 Jordan, Consumer Services There is a fix for this! If the motor is not returning to center it is because it has been told that a new direction is actually center. To fix this it is important that the output is center positioned – this is indicated when the 4 dots at the output are aligned. To set the Servo in center position, connect it to an output with power ON but no control (for example on an IR Receiver that is turned ON). I hope this helps you get back to building!