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Showing results for tags 'scale modeling'.
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Hello Everyone, I'm new to Eurobricks, so let me present my first ever LEGO car design, which is a 1:13 scale model of the iconic Land Rover Series II 88" from 1958. The design was made using Studio 2.0. Originally I wanted to build this car in an authentic Land Rover colour (LEGO colours sand blue/green or dark red/green), but many parts are unavailable, and therefore this remains a dream. Luckily, all parts are available in red, and therefore the model can be built. The model fits in the Creator Expert car series. It consists of 1477 parts, the doors and the hood can be opened. I designed some custom decals (front grill and dashboard) to capture some characteristic features of the car. Most of the chassis is built in an unusual way, which made possible to build a smooth curved lower edge. The canvas holding frame is easily removable, and you can find a simple engine under the hood.
In case you thought train 60198 was not really appealing there is always a solution around that as you can see in form of the 40 CP1408 MOC by andrepinto. I find it very hard to see that this train and the entire rest of the MOC is even made out of LEGO. Check out the topic by andrepinto in LEGO Scale Modeling.
Currently I am working on a new Lego project (large scale Duesenberg SJ) and while waiting for a few exotic parts I decided to update my small Harley Davidson collection with a model I have had in mind for a while; a custom softail with classic springer frontend. The colors and plated parts are inspired by the Chicano style lowriders I often admire in Magazines. I just love these wild rides with an extreme attention to detail. These types of bikes can be seen with fantastic artwork and completely engraved engines and accessories. This 1:10 model has many customized parts as well. All Lego ABS parts are plated with true chrome and gold, at an industrial ‘plating on plastics’ factory. Some Lego parts cannot be electro-plated (non-ABS) and are therefor sprayed, like the Technic connectors and 75 mm front wheel. Silicone cables are used for the front brake and clutch cable. I nicknamed it “last of the wilds” as it will probably take a while before I have time to build a new one.
Let me say this right off the bat: no, I'm not painting anything. A few years ago I built a PRR A6b and, and at the end of the post I threw in this "weathered" version: I wasn't that happy with it, but I wasn't too interested at the time, and I decided I'd look at it later. Well, now is later! Almost all LEGO train models are built with the assumption that the locos or cars are clean and well-kept, but this is really the exception in practice. I've seen LEGO weathering done a handful of times, but I don't feel like I've ever seen it done that well. At the same time, I don't feel like it should be that hard. So after studying some photos of real weathered locomotives, I gave it another go: Here is my U30B in black: This first weathered sample is supposed to suggest dirty with a little bit of wear. The photo exemplifies the pattern I see on such locomotives: the uneven application of dust and grime almost forms a gradient where the lower half is darker/lighter than the upper half (depending on the base color), and this gradient is largely what I'm trying to depict. I think the trick is to strike the right balance between intentional and random - I want the bottom to be primarily grey (dirty) and the top primarily black, but then I need to randomly reduce the number of grey parts as I move toward clean areas of the loco in order to suggest that gradient: This second sample is supposed to suggest rusty less than dirty. This photo is of course of a model, and I think the rust is a little aggressive, but another pattern emerges: the rust is much more evenly distributed across the body but still comes in large patches without clearly defined borders. One of the difficulties in both attempts, but more so in this one is trying to balance resolution with features: I wanted to preserve the panels and such that texture the body of the locomotive, but at the same time I wanted to break up the panels such that I wasn't making entire panels "rusty" at a time. This final sample for now is based on a Conrail N6A transfer caboose I'm working on. The "clean" model is as shown: The weathered model is more of a blend of dirty and rusty. I specifically wanted to weather this model because I could get a lot of "drawing" resolution with 1x1 plates due to the caboose's simple construction. Again, I'm largely trying to make a gradient between the trucks and the body, but I've thrown in some rust spots as well. Overall I'm fairly happy with all three results, but I wanted to get some second opinions. Are the weathered variants any good? Is it too distracting? Maybe most crucially, does anyone think the weathered variants look better than the clean variants? I'm almost certainly going to built one of these in brick to explore what it actually looks like, but any thoughts are appreciated.