I_Igor

42110 - Land Rover Defender

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@Anio Nice analysis - you would be correct, except for the current sticker. I’ve taken a few screenshots from @kbalage’s video that should explain, as they include the hi-lo sticker:

tB3lcuf.png

9jLLo34.png

In other words, your analysis is right, but the hi-lo sticker is wrong.

Edited by Pattspatt

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5 minutes ago, Pattspatt said:

@Anio Nice analysis - you would be correct, except for the current sticker. I’ve taken a few screenshots from @kbalage’s video that should explain, as they include the hi-lo sticker:

In other words, your analysis is right, but the hi-lo sticker is wrong.

Indeed !

I actually never apply the stickers. Didn't see that hi-lo sticker was printed that way.
To me it is obvious that when lever is push at the rear, it makes a multiplication (from the wheels towards the engine), and so it is Low gear.

So, to sum it up, @kbalage you were right : both stickers are wrong. At least from a true mechanical perspective.

It kinda reminds me the thing with 8457 power puller and the "arm with muscle" thing. You know, to explain the variation between speed and torque. The way TLG explained it was wrong.

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Just now, Anio said:

To me it is obvious that when lever is push at the rear, it makes a multiplication (from the wheels towards the engine), and so it is Low gear.
So, to sum it up, @kbalage you were right : both stickers are wrong. At least from a true mechanical perspective.

So here's my quick fix:

1. turn the + - sticker upside down
2. remove the Hi / Lo sticker, cut it in half, apply the parts swapped
3. proper shifting sequence :)

 

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And now what do we know from 42056 and 42110 ?

TLG really has hard times with gear sequences. :D

Full review here : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-technic/42110/land-rover-defender-42110-milan-reindl-2019

In French, but you may translate.

Loads of photos.

42110-11.JPG

42110-42.JPG

42110-37.JPG

Full gear ratios (from differential) :

Low : 1:0,93 ; 1;0,56 ; 1:0,31 ; 1:0,19

High : 1:0,34 ; 1:0,2 ; 1:0,11 ; 1:0,07

R : 1:0,11

 

So you may have note that low 3rd and 4th, and high 1st and 2nd use the same range. This is not realistic but it's not such a big deal.

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59 minutes ago, pleegwat said:

@kbalage mentions in his video that the engine runs a bit irregular - I think that's probably unavoidable in a 6-cilinder micro engine as there is more load from the engine when it's pushing up a cylinder, and it's not pushing up cylinders at a constant rate (1, 1, 2, 2 or 1, 2, 1, 2 every 90°, rather than 2 every 120°). It would be interesting to see if we can come up with a fix for that.

unfortunately the solution has already been invented yet not used officially: (this part has been around for 25 years now :wacko:)

6575.png

The set seems like a good parts pack (all the new transmission parts + suspension components). Hopefully there will be more sets using that colour and it won't be a one off as the 42069 

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49 minutes ago, syclone said:

unfortunately the solution has already been invented yet not used officially: (this part has been around for 25 years now :wacko:)

6575.png

 The set seems like a good parts pack (all the new transmission parts + suspension components). Hopefully there will be more sets using that colour and it won't be a one off as the 42069 

That would enable even pushup each revolution, but so would a regular flat plane crank, and that wouldnt double the stroke per crank rev. Either solution wont give a proper 120 degree seperation though, maybe someone can think of something with the tri-axle connector.

imho, the real solution is a proper fake engine, lego could have put an I4 in there with a brick built turbo

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Doing a mini engine style would be relatively easy since you just have to align the 2l beam which pushes up the cylinder. If you use the standard pulley wheel (with 6 holes at 60° separation) you could put it between cylinders  and get 1.5 studs per cylinder for a slightly larger mini-engine.

A full engine would be trickier since it needs to be rigid, and you need a full stud of axle for the piston to move on. All I can think of offhand (based on the tri-axle connector) quickly pushes you toward 3 or more studs per cylinder. And I think I only own two tri-axle connectors anyway.

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2 hours ago, vectormatic said:

imho, the real solution is a proper fake engine, lego could have put an I4 in there with a brick built turbo

Depends on whether Land Rover would allow it.

 

Also, regarding the gears being reversed, can’t you just swap the gears for the hi-lo selector, and then flip the +/- sticker and move that 1L bushing to the end of the moving beam at the start of the video? Doesn’t seem too complicated of a fix

Edited by Bartybum

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For the price conscious (and gearbox haters), a poor man's 4x4 ... has an equally unique colour scheme.

35222251074_899d2e0fb2_o.jpg

(From Jim's 42069 review)

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48768595647_27665a4777_k.jpg

 

Building it on Stud.io following Sariel's speed build that I 'slowed down' on Adobe Premier, filling in the wait for the building guide to go online. ;-)

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5 hours ago, iLego said:

For the price conscious (and gearbox haters), a poor man's 4x4 ... has an equally unique colour scheme.

35222251074_899d2e0fb2_o.jpg

(From Jim's 42069 review)

Good point. It would be nice if someone did a head to head video comparison between both sets. 42069 had a more innovative suspension system, easier to use winch and that easter egg feature to raise the rear section. Plus you get a B Model and a lower RRP.

 

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Maybe those two uv joints beside the gearbox could be converted to straight axles by mirroring or moving the assembly so its on the right and then thus connects to whats on the right better.

This could make a little more room for a motor.

Edited by SNIPE

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16 hours ago, Bartybum said:

Depends on whether Land Rover would allow it.

 

Also, regarding the gears being reversed, can’t you just swap the gears for the hi-lo selector, and then flip the +/- sticker and move that 1L bushing to the end of the moving beam at the start of the video? Doesn’t seem too complicated of a fix

I am also curious if there is a way to change the reverse gear to make it the same(or similar) ratio to 1st gear. You can flip the stickers around, but reverse is still going to be incorrect.

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On 9/20/2019 at 8:53 PM, kbalage said:

So here's my quick fix:

1. turn the + - sticker upside down
2. remove the Hi / Lo sticker, cut it in half, apply the parts swapped
3. proper shifting sequence :)

 

Copy that. But would it be possible for the Hi Lo to switch the red and tan with the blue and grey gear?

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30 minutes ago, Coolusername said:

Copy that. But would it be possible for the Hi Lo to switch the red and tan with the blue and grey gear?

That would be an option.
But it makes the "slow mode" with lever at the front, while it would make more sense if pushed toward the rear.

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1 hour ago, Coolusername said:

Copy that. But would it be possible for the Hi Lo to switch the red and tan with the blue and grey gear?

You can't switch them easily, there's not enough space for the blue clutch gear if you'd like to swap it with the red one. The yellow extension ring is right next to the red clutch gear.

IMG_20190921_224448.jpg

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Def looks interesting, I'm excited about the gearbox and mod opportunities to improve it.  Any hope for a lift-off body mod for this kit???

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14 hours ago, BrickWild said:

 

 

Building it on Stud.io following Sariel's speed build that I 'slowed down' on Adobe Premier, filling in the wait for the building guide to go online. ;-)

Good Job!

 

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3 hours ago, kbalage said:

You can't switch them easily, there's not enough space for the blue clutch gear if you'd like to swap it with the red one. The yellow extension ring is right next to the red clutch gear.

IMG_20190921_224448.jpg

Oh would that black sequential selector be in the way of the blue gear if you wanted to swap the red and blue clutches?

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2 hours ago, BrickWild said:

It's been completed!

Just need the new wheels and mudguards!
 

Would you be OK to share the file; so I can start on some more accessories?

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18 hours ago, Bartybum said:

Oh would that black sequential selector be in the way of the blue gear if you wanted to swap the red and blue clutches?

Yes, that'd be also a problem, so there're more reasons why the clutch gears cannot be swapped. Rearranging the gear selector and this whole middle section might be a solution, but flipping the stickers is actually still easier :) 

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