pleegwat

Eurobricks Citizen
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  1. Looks like a good solution. The only potential problem I see is that the orange and grey liftarms may have more friction than the original solution, but I doubt that's significant.
  2. Nice creative solution. That's for undeveloped film; this film has been developed.
  3. My gut says heating either the filament or a mould and squeezing the ends into shape would be more reliable than cutting, but making an appropriate mould is probably a metalworking challenge rather than a 3d printing one.
  4. That would be an interesting approach for sure.
  5. Could you cheat by only connecting a hose to the port at the base of the cylinder, and simply releasing pressure to let the hatch drop?
  6. I've philosophised the same thing. Certainly the older PU gets, the less likely it becomes that such a component is introduced. I don't think it would be too unreasonable a component though.
  7. I moved my millenium falcon, saturn V, and LUT to my parents' place last weekend. I know both the system models have damage and the launch tower (which is almost pure technic) was in just as many pieces as it started out in. I haven't unpackaged anything though; it needs to move to my new house next month and I'll figure out the damage after. I'm taking the other display sets next weekend; we'll see if the pattern holds.
  8. The proper total number of teeth (sum of both gears) to get a perfect mesh is 16 times the distance in studs. for the 1x1 diagonal, the ideal number of teeth is 22.6. 12:8 links only have 20 teeth total, which simply is not enough. It's not going to work any better with a 12z spur gear than it does with a 12z double bevel.
  9. You can use the powered up app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lego.common.poweredup&hl=en&gl=US
  10. But the rotor rotation doesn't have a reverse mode. It has a slow and a fast mode in the same direction.
  11. Key word there is curve. 5L beams are straight.
  12. I think I've seen TLG use a pin with ball to keep the 5l beam in place in a similar situation.
  13. Yup, that's definitely the bottom of the battery box between and in front of the rear wheels. Based on the visible connector wire, the motor sits behind it. I do not see the motor on/off control on the displayed side, so it must be on the other side. The winch gearing looks weird running along the outside like that. I suspect the secondary hook below the centre of the helicopter is not connected to a winch? If it were, I would have expected that to be a listed feature. On overly close inspection, is that still the old battery box cover which closes with clips? Would probably still be the new one in the box.
  14. Thanks for all the tips. Good call on the backdrop. I probably would have gone for my normal wood-print desk and not realised my mistake till afterwards. I've got a plain gray bedsheet which should be serviceable as a backdrop. I'll have to look into camera mounting - I will be using my phone as I don't have a dedicated camera, and I do not have a tripod but I've built a phone-camera mount one out of lego before and can do it again.
  15. I'm planning to disassemble a MOC, and am considering making a photo series during the disassembly. I've never done that before. Does anyone have any tips for optimum result?