Pattspatt

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Pattspatt

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    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    42110

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    United States

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  1. Pattspatt

    Medium-Duty CVT Transmission

    Very interesting! Looks like pretty good performance for such an unusual method. I wonder, does the slippage in low “gear“ have anything to do with a higher differential speed across the width of the tire? I wonder whether a thinner tire would help.
  2. Pattspatt

    Extremely simple extendable driveshaft

    I haven’t used this for suspension - I agree, it’s a lot clunkier than the cv joints. However it’s working well to get Hand of God steering to an adjustable-position steering wheel. So, not a driveshaft in the traditional sense, but still technically transferring some torque. The steering wheel in my case is able to turn the wheels using this set-up pretty easily.
  3. I’m sure I’m not the first to discover this, but I did a search of the forum and didn't find this solution. For low-torque applications, this works great! There’s a video of it in action at https://m.imgur.com/p8SfCMW
  4. Just yesterday I did this - I used needle-nosed pliers wrapped in printer paper & taped. It’s a good idea to mount the portal to a beam, and mount the hub to something as well to help you pull. What I did was I got a grip on the lips of the Hub with the pliers, squeezed, and then when they were visibly “squished”, I started pulling on the hub and it came out pretty much immediately. It didn’t seem like there was much risk of the hub prongs snapping or permanently deforming - but they did lose a small chunk of plastic from their edge. Shouldn’t be enough to affect future performance, though. Either my plier wrapping job was insufficient (the paper wasn’t well secured), or the parts really are that delicate.
  5. Pattspatt

    42110 - Land Rover Defender

    Yeah, it’s extremely difficult to get it just right. There are so many things to tweak, it’s nearly impossible. The red clutch gears being rougher on one side, the new tan bevel gear mold being rough on both sides and maybe slightly too large, and the list goes on. I’ve found that for some of the connector-based bracing (especially right before the engine), the most reliable way to decrease friction is to actually slightly separate the connectors - which widens the possible number of things to fiddle with even more. (I’ve circled a good place to do this below) And then keeping all this fiddly detail intact while marrying it to other assemblies and adding all the bracing in later steps..... My LR is disassembled right now, but when I rebuild, I’m going to try to get this fiddling just right. I didn’t have any cracking on my last build, but there was definitely friction build-up when the fake engine was spinning at its fastest - it would start spinning in rapid spurts. This set could definitely be a lot better optimized for performance/ease of assembly, but if you’re in the mood for a challenge, trying to get this one working exactly perfectly in the stock configuration is a tough one!
  6. Pattspatt

    42115 - Lamborghini Sian FKP 37

    Yes, 42110’s gearbox is almost correct if you just flip the stickers - except reverse then runs at the same ratio as 4th gear. Glad the Sian could use a tried-and-tested gearbox, while improving on the Chiron’s many non-gearbox issues!
  7. I see where you’re coming from - but I think the geometry in v1.3 is correct, in theory. One way to make Ackerman geometry work is that if you trace back the angle of the tie rods when the wheels aren’t turned, the imaginary lines from the tie rods intersect in the middle of the rear axle. v1.3 moved the tie rods in front of the wheels, as in the photos in this thread: https://tbucketeer.com/threads/front-steer-steering-arms.17329/ I think the source of friction that you’ve identified is probably accurate, though (I haven’t built v1.3 yet) - but in theory, jb70’s geometry looks correct to me!
  8. Hey, wonderful! I’m flattered to have (some of) my work included in your instructions. Looking forward to trying out v1.3!
  9. @jb70 Very cool - nice job!
  10. Pattspatt

    [MOD] Defender Pickup

    Love it! It’s a very fun shape - creative solutions for the bonnet, too! Those adjustable seats are very nice; I might have to try adding those to mine.
  11. I’ve made a “Easy” Body-Removal mod for the Land Rover. Maybe it’s not quite easy, since there are some ~28 odd connections between the body and the chassis still. But they go pretty fast, and I’m happy with it. I was trying not to sacrifice sturdiness with this mod, and on that note at least, I think I succeeded! Here’s a look at the new cassis underside. The yellow highlighted areas are pins that need to be pulled out. Then there are pins beneath the seats, behind the front wheels, and in front near the engine. There’s a photo overview at https://imgur.com/gallery/8f9xc0A. Once all the connection points are removed (and the winch is let out), the entire body lifts off the chassis intact, with seats still attached to the body. I’m thinking if anyone wants to do a “poor man’s lift” of a few studs, this mod could make it very easy. Of course, just reattaching the body to the chassis a few studs higher isn’t very realistic compared to a lift in real life, but hey, this is still an option! If you want to do the mod yourself, I’ve made a more detailed how-to album at https://imgur.com/gallery/LNzFsq8.
  12. Good idea! I think that your image might be a real-life crankshaft configuration - if I’m not mistaken, it’d be a two-stroke I-6 instead of a four-stroke. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight-six_engine#Two-stroke I bet it would work if you flipped the piston assembly upside-down to give the extra clearance. Wish I could try it, but I don’t have enough of those tri-axles!
  13. Well, I gave it a shot with the toothed connectors: The crankshaft looks pretty fantastic - very close to the real spacing. I modded the pistons in an attempt to keep the teeth from catching on the bottom of them: Unfortunately, (long story short), it didn’t work. There wasn’t enough room for the “teeth”, compared to the rounded edges of the stock crankshaft. So a 1L height for the bottom of the pistons was too high. I tried reversing the pistons, and giving them some extra length to give the crankshaft something to hit on. Nope, still no luck. I couldn’t think of a 3x1x1/2 piece that I could use as a “guide” for the crankshaft teeth, but at that point, you’d be looking at less than half a stud of displacement during piston movement in the best case scenario. So I guess the piston-contacting surfaces on the crankshaft have to be rounded - obvious in retrospect I guess, but sometimes you have to try it out!
  14. I like that idea, though - 5/5/6 is so far the most realistic case that doesn’t require a lot of non-crankshaft modding. Maybe the pistons themselves could instead be built out of https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18651&name=Technic, Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and 2L Axle&category=[Technic, Axle]#T=C&C=11 with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32184&name=Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole&category=[Technic, Connector]#T=C as the crankshaft-contacting part? Most likely the 5/5/6 shaft could push the pistons up with this design, but it would probably introduce too much friction between the pistons. I’ll see if I can try something like this out tonight.
  15. Here’s an idea that’s not very elegant, but would allow the same cylinder width: If you stack the tri-axle connector (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=57585#T=C&C=86) onto the crankshaft in a neat row of six, and then add pairs of these (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32013&name=Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #T=C) 120 degrees out of phase, that’d work. You’d have to move the crankshaft down a stud, though (or you could move the piston assembly up).