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Found 21 results

  1. Hi guys, I currently have a small city/train layout. It is currently getting to small for my trains and modulars. (if you are interested you can find it here: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=554588). This made me think over a redesign of the layout where I have more space for the trains and the modulars, and where I have more "track-space" to move the trains on the layout (with the current design I can move 4 trains independently on the layout). I have now to describe what you can see in the image above: First you see the whole visible track of the layout. You can also see that it consist of three levels: gray baseplates = level 0 green baseplates = level 1 (20cm above level 0) tan baseplates = level 2 (only streets and houses, 20cm above level 1) All blue baseplates are placeholders for modular houses. You can also see, that this layout only works with modified points. The tracks on the red baseplates are the ramp where the train can go from level 0 to level 1. In the picture above you can also find the dimensions of the layout. In the pictures below, you can find the track layout of each single level (for reference the track ramp is shown in all thee pictures): Level 0: Level 1: Level 2: Now my Questions are: What do you think in general of my layout? What would you change/ what didn't you like? Do you think the given ramp is doable with PF-Trains (height difference = 20cm) BR, Guenther
  2. Hi everyone, I'm showing you this MOC now so it won't get immediately forgotten amid the Nuremberg Toy Fair and the new sets. So it's something I call it the Personal Armored Tank, because It has a seat for one person, a canon, tracks, and "armor" panels. It uses 2 L-Motors for driving, 1 M-Motor for tuning the canon, a 9V battery and MiniZip cable for power, and an Sbrick. Here are some photos: The connectors on the back are little "guns". ^ Bottom view. ^ Here is how the canon turns. ^ Please tell me what you think and have a great day!
  3. After many unsuccesful attempts to build small transporter and avoid windscreen problems like these: I have finally managed to build this little tracked-truckish-thingy. I hope you like it HMT4 by Horcik Designs, on Flickr HMT4 by Horcik Designs, on Flickr What's more, the cab is modular, in some way. Cab Separators by Horcik Designs, on Flickr
  4. So after a rather poor start I decided to totally reimagine and rebuild the Mercedes truck of the future. It all started with a random idea of routing 4 functions through a turntable like this: After fiddling around in LDD for few hours I came up with an 8 function gearbox powered by a single RC motor: The functions shown are: Orange - RC motor drive Lime - Horizontal extending od outriggers Yellow - Vertical extending of outriggerd Violet - Slide and tip of the bed White - Rotation of main arm superstructure Light gray- Rotation of claws Red - Lift of main arm Warm gold - Movement of claws Dark gray - Rotation of scondary arm After this rather unusual design process it was time to think of the basic shape of the model. I was inspired by the 42038 arctic truck's layout, but I wanted to add my own twist to the formula... Here's the result: Here you can see the massive cran arm used to pick up various loads: The truck uses four of the biggest Lego wheels in front and 4 tracks in the rear: As you can see all tracks and wheels have fully functional spring (and additional pendular for the tracks) suspension. Also notice the massive bed tipping angle. The truck also has a fake V8 piston engine driven by the tracks: And a prestige sand-colored interrior: Steering is done via HOG and the spare tyre behind the cab: Here's the description of the concept idea: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ This is my model for the future 2045 Mercedes-Benz competition. I named it Antos and it has several features: The engine is Euro 11 compliant 6-stroke aqua-diesel-electric hybrid. The additional 2 strokes inject water into the hot engine with expands as steam adding another work cycle. The engine also powers an electrical generator which is used to power the truck's front wheels. Front wheels also act as a generator while braking, therebye returning the electrical power back to the batteries. Tracks are driven directly by the diesel engine. For optimal performance the front is equiped with many air surfaces which reduce drag. Because this is an offroad truck, the massive wheels and 4 tracks in the rear provide it with massive traction area, which reduces ground pressure and preserves ground vegetation. The multi-functional arm and bed are driven by a single motor using a mechanical multiplexer mechanism. The Lego modes uses solid axle suspension in front, suspension on all 4 rear tracks, a fake V8 piston engine driven by rear tracks A powerfull RC motor powers the 8 functions. I managed to reute 4 functions through the turntable in order to fully motorize all arm functions. Total number of gears used for arm and bed (not including steering and fake engine gears)is over 130 making this one of my most complex switchboxes to date. The front was slightly inspired by the Unimog 400's sloped cab, but with added wings and a lower bumper. The idea for the tracks and arm actually came from the 2014 Lego technic arctic vehicle. The rear bumper is in a shape of a V in order to allow the bed to slide out and tilt. Interrior is detailed with seats, steering wheel and handles in prestige sand color. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ And as usual here's a short 3 minute video. (3 minutes is max time so you may pause some text) I hope you guys like the truck, I personaly think its a very retro-futuristic beefed up advanced half-track concept and in that sense something different and original.
  5. Hi! It's been quite a while since I managed to put something together and even longer since I managed to put it "on paper". I'd like to present you my latest, and already an old MOC, may it rest in pieces, The Red Pitbull Terrier! At first, this one was supposed to be my noble steed for the unfortunately canceled winter trial truck (kinda) competition organised by our national LUG. Stressed out due cancelation, this horsey grew bigger and fatter than it was ment to be for the actual race. I admit, it is rather fugly, but it was a lot of fun to build and drive also. I am especially happy about how did the suspension come out - the tracks adapt(ed) to the surface very smoothly and there is no bending of the road wheels towards the outside. Thanks to our EB colleague Kelkschiz and his I learned, that what I've built is called a Christie tank suspension . As a keen eye will certainly notice, I used the small shock absorbers with normal springs. Only when I put the cab on, I learned that the front road wheels had to be suspended on hard springs, because the weight of the cabin was pulling the whole truck's front down. My intention was, to build the tracks like a module with spring inside this module, which would then be attached to the hull. After several trial and error iterations, I abandoned that idea, because I didn't manage to eleminate the bending of the road wheels towards the sides of the truck. I ended up attaching each road wheel one after another, kinda like stitching and prepared me quite some "fun" for disassembly As for the hull, I thought I managed to seal the bottom and the sides of it quite well, but that damn half melted snow reached every dark corner of that ogre anyway! As you can see on the photo below, I decided that this puppy should run on four PF XL motors, with all sprocket wheels driven. The motors were geared down just a bit (12/20 -> 1/1.67). I really recommend those "new" wheel hubs for mounting the sprocket wheels - they hold as Kragle and I don't recall the tracks ever slipping of them, as it seems it often happens when sprocket wheels are mounted on axles only, as they tend to bend. As you can see, I built some kind of a gutter for the tracks , so that no return wheels were needed. That two stud wide gutter in combination with the mudguards also kept the tracks tucked in nice, preventing them to slip off. Some transversal girders were also used to make both sides of the suspension sturdier. A nice, warm pit remained in the center of the hull for two AAA battery boxes. Two sets of 63 tracks were used. The motors were connected in pairs, each pair to its own V2 IR receiver. The receivers were placed under the hood of the cab, therefore a fake cooling fan. Although the tracks tend to slip, I decided not to mount any transversal ribs on them and went for a tight fit with the muguards. So here it is, with some accessories to make it look badass - at least that was my intention . Final dimensions are approximately W/L/H = 48/25/26 studs. Weight: 2.3 kilos. Two sets of PF LED lights were used, each powered by one of the BB's, so they were lit all the time. I tried to make the cab look a bit like the older tracked trucks that goooooogle provided me with. I had those transclear dome pieces for a while so I tried them out as a bulb for the lights. I still can't say whether I like the outcome or not. Can someone please explain why would somebody need turn signals in the middle of Syberia??? I sure can't say :laugh: ! The cab was somewhat fun to build because it starts with even width and ends with odd. Lately I really like Technic creations to be manned, so there are my three brave soldiers, kicking winter and bora in the face! I hope you like it, otherwise feel free to rip me apart P.S.: Yes, there is . I was, again, foolish enough to edit the video along with music that is under copyright, so the actual music you'll be hearing is just barely coherent with the cuts... I recommend listening to the "original" music which should be in the video, but it got shot down due forementioned world of legal stuff etc... I provided the link at the begining of the video. I must also add, that this baby was named after that song...I hope this little naivity of mine won't degrade your opinion on this build.Cheers, miha P.P.S.: I hope my "hero-doesn't-go-pro" didn't make any of you sick because of all the shaking... My fair lady provided me her LG G3, which I abused on this torture tool Thx baby.
  6. The last entry I will be making for a while (still need to start on my next project) is about a small Tracked Cube that I designed during a long weekend. The challenge was to make it as compact as possible (but still looking cool and studless and still possible to operate well with the RC. When I posted instructions on Rebrickable I got quite positive responses so I also want to whare it with you. Looks boring at first, but the fun part is seeing it in actions. Due to the closely spaced tracks the turning speed it quite OK. Not my best video (actually my very first, hence the professional editing ) Hope you like it and when you have the parts, just build it :sweet: : http://www.rebrickab...tracked-cube-rc
  7. Hi I'm a technic guy but just bought my first train set today 60052. I'm looking at also getting 7939 and the maersk too. Are all tracks comparable both normal and flexy or which is better? I take it my 60052 is normal tracks but can they all be joined and look the same? Half way through building 60052 only the engine left to build. Carriages were quiet easy and so was the crane. Very strange building when I'm used to technic but nice all the same. One more question is the new 60051 worth getting?
  8. Let me introduce you to my first ever train MOC ;) If moderator feels this belongs to other category better (maybe historic? he's been waiting for sooo long...) feel free to move this topic. This is how a typical passanger feels sometimes when your train simply doesn't want to come on time :) EDIT: This MOC is now on Rebrickable:
  9. hi! this isn't my newer MOC and due to have posted some photo into facebook it can't be an entry for the TC6, anyway jim suggested me to start a topic and there is! FEATURES: -L motors for tracks drive, they are covered due to protect the tracks and to use the space inside them -XL motor to power the winch, it is needed to reload the flipper :3 -old squared motor for the winch control, you can disconnect the winch from the XL motor trough a little gearbox to release its power instantly -2-times-twisted-green-rubber-band-powered (muhuhahahah) flipper -simple 4 channel remote control -LiPo battery box designed with the lowest ground clearance and with covered tracks to make it unflippable and resistant to spikes, however its flipper can work as a srimech unfortunately I have only this picture but tomorrow birckshel should opent its file and I'll link there, and also the lfx file :3 also I have some videos in the facebook group called "lego robot wars (LRW)" it could be perfect for sbrick because it allows to make battles between more than two robots, and also the electronic works better with the 2 L motors that sometimes stops this is a link to a short video on Facebook in the LRW's group hope is possible to see it https://www.facebook...727476340692630
  10. I've been wanting to make this since I got back into Lego roughly two years ago, and had just started playing around with a road wheel setup for it when [TC6] was announced! Firstly here are a couple pictures of the real vehicle in Norwegian service If you google CV9030 you'll find tons more Obviously building this in studless Technic is out of the question, so I am currently in the process of building my first studded MOC in around 20 years! It is also an all time first building a military tracked vehicle, as well as something studded based on a real vehicle, as well as building PF into a studded model. I want to make it fairly small, so small track links it is (I hope to one day make a properly detailed model of the same vehicle in larger scale using the new style tracks). Anyway, seeing as 99% of my studded brick collection has been sat in the same place collecting dust for the past 15-20 years, I'm rather handicapped both in parts selection as well as colour: As you can see, it's not ideal by any standards. Building studded is so different from studless, it feels almost like two completely different toys! I'm going to have to redesign the transmission, and possibly relocate the motors. The space inside between the suspension "rubber band arms" is only 4 studs. Although the real CV90 uses torsion bar suspension, using that at this small scale would be way too stiff, and thus not make any sense. I will much rather have functional, soft suspension, as you can see in the above picture. So, that's it for now, still quite a way to go as you can see I will do a lot of tinkering in LDD with regards to the turret design, and hopefully the final physical model will be either LBG or white (like the ones in UN service).
  11. This is another MOC I'd like to present as a part of my introduction here on Eurobricks. As my current work is still very much in a WIP state (but should be presentable very soon), it's another older model that I made in September/October 2011. As a long time Citroën aficionado, my favourite car maker was of course one of the first subjects I tried when going back into LEGO. One fascinating type of vehicles Citroën made in the '20s and '30s are half-tracked vehicles. Based on their normal production cars, they featured a relatively classic front end, while the rear wheels were replaced by tracks. Besides being used in snowy areas as buses or snowploughs, as agricultural or military vehicles, the most famous purpose of these cars were the expeditions Citroën undertook in those years. They led deep into the African or Asian continent where no vehicle has been before, sometimes crossing mountains where the cars had to be disassembled and carried over some dangerous passages. The model for my MOC was a 10HP type which was used for the crossing of Sahara in 1922/23. Pictures and more info (in French!) can be found here: http://passioncitro....e-22590275.html The goal for this build was to include the following: - fake engine with transmission to the rear tracks - front pendular axle with steering (via steering wheel) - tracks with suspension - realistic bodywork - scale given by the wheels from 8258 (used as front wheels) Later I included also an XL motor for driving the tracks, as the behaviour of the tracks on smooth floor was very unsatisfactory when the car was pushed. Some views of the finished vehicle: This is how the chassis looks without the body: The transmission from the motor to the driveshaft was later changed from 8T-8T-24T to 12T-36T. This shot shows a bit better how the steering and pendular axle work (on an older version of the chassis): The two movements are independent of each other, of course. Having no remote control at the time, I placed a switch between the battery box and the motor which I could take out of the car on its cable. This way, it was much easier to control the car than with fidgeting on the battery box switch: Of course I have disassembled the MOC long time ago, as I was pursuing other projects. However, the idea is still in my head to make an improved version of it with the more parts and experience I have now. I still like the front end a lot, including the mixed studless/studded building style of the front body. For me, it somehow reflects the look of these vehicles which always had an improvised touch. What I'd entirely revise are the tracks. The suspension is somewhat quirky and very far from the original. Also, the tracks are really not up to their job, and I'd use rubber tracks for better adhesion. Then I'd also add some more detail to the rear body, as it was rather plain looking. Plus a remote control for driving and steering. More pictures and some (low quality) videos are on my Bricksafe page: 10HP Kegresse
  12. We're getting some crazy snow weather. What is a Catwoman to do to keep her paws dry and warm? Ride her motorcycle or convertible sports car? Catwoman's rides by dr_spock_888, on Flickr No way. She needs something with more traction that can get her through deep snow and take care of that pesky Batman. Presenting the Catwoman's Snow Cat. Catwoman's Snow Cat by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Batman doesn't stand a chance against the tail claws. Catwoman's Snow Cat by dr_spock_888, on Flickr It has a powerful engine and winch to pull out of deep sticky situations. Catwoman's Snow Cat by dr_spock_888, on Flickr It has independent suspension on each of the track to crawl over uneven terrain or 2x4 ice blocks. Off to Mr. Freeze's dinner party with the catch of the day.
  13. I need help building my first custom Lego train track. I have had these tracks for a few years but am only getting in to it now. I have: 28 Straights 42 Curves 15 Flexible Track pieces 1 Double Crossover track 1 Left switch 1 Right switch 1 Cross track I also have a Green Cargo Train and a Red Passenger Train Help on getting a track designer for mac that supports all these pieces would also be appreciated. Thanks
  14. Last week I've made the Tracked Crystal Digger. It's a concept for the Rock Raiders 2 game. The Tracked Crystal Digger is a compact mining vehicle with several mining tools: -Drill -Mining laser -Radar -Two ground scanners for searching energy crystals And the tracks makes this vehicle suitable for rugged terrain. Photo's: 1_Tracked_Crystal_Digger by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 2_Tracked_Crystal_Digger by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 3_Tracked_Crystal_Digger by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Mining tool description: 8_Overview by LegoMathijs, on Flickr More pictures at my Flickr page: Hope you like it
  15. Today I present a quick MOC, that I made. To start, let me just say that I actually made my first tracked vehicle exactly one year ago from today, so I thought why not make another one, but better. It features full suspension with trailing arms connected to a hard 6L shock absorber, two pairs of LED's (1 front/1 rear) connected to a switch in the cab, as well as a strong drivetrain using 2 XL motors geared 1:1. Also the Triple A battery box is placed behind the 2 XL's. Sorry for the shortage of pictures, but as I was taking them it was snowing. I will have more pictures on my blog once I post it later today.
  16. Hello all, I saw a few weeks ago and decided to build it myself. I have to say that it works pretty well... I will try to make it more robust this weekend but by now it works quite well. I will count how many times can the train cross it before taking it apart... which drives me to the question: Is it fine to glue lego plates? What should I use?
  17. An ACC (alround car competition) made for a lowlug meeting. The goal was to created a tracked vehicle.
  18. So, it appears many are keen on the 4" wide MOC style, but to my knowledge, there is no 4 wide straight track per say, only the "rack and pinion" styled one with the teeths. So today, I stumbled upon this clone brand sets (in store), that actually made 4 wide tracks. The appear to be from a brand called WANGE. Never seen them before, online. The track looks pretty good, it follows the style of the modern PF tracks. 1 stud wide sleepers too. Only potential issue is the way they are connected. the rails are offset, and could probably lead to some connection issues. Comparison to an Enlighten clone of the MOT steam engine. The boxes these things come in... They make some engine designs, that appear to be based off the Creator small trains. More clone sets. Just thought I'd share this. ;) Did not get anything, as they ran out of the Enlighten sets. Would have liked that Enlighten MOT Train from the 1st picture. Also, after playing with them, and feeling the sets in hand, I must say, the quality is very good. The brick fit is nice and tight too.
  19. This is more of a wish list topic, but please, oh please why can't we get more train track varieties ? I'm new to the train Lego them and thus only using PF tracks, but I really wish you could get more functional type tracks, (affordable) crossover, t-junctions, ramps, x-junctions, and + junctions (like 12volt) .. .. Do you think Lego will release more variety ? Re-release crossover tracks ? And why not ? anybody have any insights into the limited range of tracks ? is it just cost of production ?
  20. I got some rubber tracks from BrickLink here the other day, and to my pleasant surprise they fitted nicely over the Wheel 30.4mm D. x 20mm ! As I am waiting for the last parts for my Container Stacker MOC, I thought I'd make something else in the meantime, and decided to try to make something like a smaller edition of the 8043 B-model tracked loader, using these new rubber tracks. Although it is somewhat similar to the aforementioned 8043 B-model, it is built from the bottom up using just my imagination, in the course of a couple of days. (My girlfriend is celebrating easter abroad with her family, so I have plenty of time to be creative ) This is the first time I've used studded construction in a MOC since I came out of my dark ages (Albeit just in the lower chassis), and a lot of memories came back to me from doing that! Anyway; this is the result: The yellow bucket is from my old 8862 Backhoe from way back in the day. Both the driving and the other functions are quite quick, and a lot of fun to play with. It uses PF-M motors for all four functions, and PF LED lights for playing at night when the power is out, The construction is very sturdy, if you for instance push down on the bucket, the mini LA wil start to slip before the rest will start to wobble or bend noticably. The back end comes off easily, and hides a lot of the wiring. The battery box can be removed after pulling out two Axle 4 with stop from below. I "cheated" a little with the digger apparatus, by making the entire arm a sort of four bar linkage (or whatever it's called), so the geometry (and thereby the bucket) stays the same for the entire travel of the LAs. This is probably not very true to real life, but it is a lot easier to create. When I made my Swingloader, I think 50 % of the time I used building that thing, was figuring out a good linkage for the tipping function. As you can see, the tipping works really well. A view from the bottom. You can see the axles for removing the battery box, as well as the gear train. Different speeds can be achieved by using different gear ratios. I spent a couple of hours yesterday to build the entire model in LDD, and it turned out 99,9% accurate, I used "illegal" building techniques on two occasions. One you can see in the above two pictures (attachment of the rear mudguards. The other is where the IR Receivers are attached (I had to use one of these in LDD, instead of one ot these , which is used in the real life model. If anyoneone wants to build this, just shoot me a PM with your e-mail, and I will send you the .lxf file. The model has just over 600 pieces. And here is a video of it in action:
  21. After completing the autopump i realized it would be very usefull in a construction equipement. But i wanted to build omething special, unlike the usual classic machines. This is why I chose a walking excavator type of a vehicle. To lift and tilt its legs I used pneumatics, because they are better in routing tubes over the complex joints on which the machine rests. For operation of the arm I chose LA's due to their ability to accurately move loads with little jerking. So here's the excavator nice and tightly folded. The legs are spread and the boom begins to lift: The four legs are than lowered therebye lifting the whole excavator up some 10 cm: As you can see each of the tracks has its own M motor, the total number of motors being 11, all M type: Feeding on some bricks: And spewing them out: The underside of the bottom showing the two autopmups used to lower and spread the legs: And the video of excavator in action: All in all I am quite pleased with the model, especially the pneumatic side of it. Its really fun to play with it, lift it up and dig out the bricks. There are some things bothering me though: The legs bend too much sideways The speed of the superstructure is a bit fast Pneumatics are unstable unless in maximum lowest or highest position Long wheel base makes skid steering hard What'ya all think?