Boxerlego

Amazing! The two speed transmission sounds perfect. Crawler speed and Buggy speed. That is all you really need. Good work!

LEGO Supercars have all the functions of a car. A LEGO car is a brick on wheels.

Thanks. Yes I will.

Here is a picture of the design I am working on that required the 3mm rigid hose in the Axle hole and the rigid hose works perfectly. I'm building a Monster truck and been working on it for some amount of time. @EdmanZA: That is interesting. Thanks for sharing this technique and where you saw it. I think this technique is a very clever and unique to building. Definitely opens new connections up and the new possibilities of building. I want to use the words "resource effective" to describe this technique. Your not removing length from a $0.02 axle your just using a $0.005 piece of 3mm rigid hose to fill the gap. @Blakbird: I do not plan to use the bond to strengthen any connections on the design. The liftarm 1x11.5 double bend is the main pillar of construction and is at the same 135 degree angle as the #4 axle and pin connector. The pin connections and liftarms will handle tension on the frame. The 3mm rigid hose will stiffen the Axle members and center certain nodes or modules on the Axle members so it will align with the studless paradigm. I want to tell you that this technique is intriguing. Was this technique something that was conjured around the studded parts? @AndyCW: Thanks! I understand why the decision was made to cut the Axles to length and I want to point out that is right choice in your situation. You were using the axle as a axle, me on the other hand was using the axle as a structural member and more possible options are on the table here to make the desired length for the axle connection happen. I made a jig to ensure precision cuts were made on the 3mm rigid hose and that everything was centered and aligned properly.

I don't want to rush to the option of cutting just yet. The assembly fits the system no problem. The problem is the 1-2 mm gap because it allows some compression. Could you show pictures of the axles and a example of the situation that was the reason why you did it. Pictures in LDD would be great. Maybe your idea on how to use it, yes that would be lazy. But understand this, all I want to do here is "add" some length to the Axle so it can fit. I am actually suggesting something that is completely the "opposite" of cutting here.. Sure it is more expensive but man up about it if you going to start cutting here. I need something to fill the gap. That is the goal you could say. Also another goal is how fast can you restore the axle connector to original condition. The rolled up paper is what it is rolled up paper. It is a simple and practical. I've been thinking about it but; WOW I like thought of the 3mm rigid hose. It perfect and you don't haft to deal with the guess work of paper smashing. Nice Job! Thanks EdmanZA.

It can be a small sacrifice to ones axles collection to cut down the size of their axles to make connections like so. But I dont want to cut my axle I want them to stay unaltered as much as I can. I've thought about using a little amount of JB-weld to give a some length to the axle... however dong this could make the connection much harder to put together.

I've seen some topics suggesting the idea of cutting the axle to length when a axle is to small for the given axle connection by the axle connectors. Here is a simple example that show a 1-2mm gap that is between the axle and connector. What should you do in a situation like this?

WOW! The cathedral looks amazing! I like how the dome looks and the emphasis on all the windows.

I hope this is of help. I've powered two L-motors with 10.7 volts from my own 8-cell battery box and it worked just fine with the V2 IR receiver. Here is the .

The problem is with the battery box. This video will explain everything on what is happening with the L-motors.

That looks great! I thought it was real by how the pictures look in the post.

Thanks, That is very Interesting solution. But you shouldn't haft to run to a scientific calculator to build this stuff in LDD. Putting the yellow pistons in the engine cylinder is a good example on how difficult it is because those yellow pistons don't line up or go in the engine cylinders. You haft to bend the piston head on the rod to match the angle of the engine and the angle the rod to the crankshaft...then you got to disconnect the rod from the piston so the can connect on the crank and be in the cylinder where you will put the piston head in to connect with the rod... it is a back and forth process that is unnecessary to get the piston in the engine cylinder and connected to the crank shaft. The Idea is you should be able to have the piston head and rod in the engine cylinder together and you angle them together as a group to connect to the engine frame and attach the piston rod to the crankshaft and your done.

Needle nose pliers work great.

Thanks! That was a good question. I want to add that you dont want to use the "hinge align tool" for connecting the piston the the crankshaft. What you will need to do is set the piston rod at the angle that connects to with the crank. The crank does not move to connect with the piston. The piston has to move to connect with the crankshaft. The "hinge align tool" really does no good at connecting the piston and crank together I must say. I've already made the engines. They were made awhile ago. I've got couple of new engine in the works right now and testing ideas. Currently I've built two kinds of V4 engine, One with a 90 degree V angle and the other is at a 60 degree V angle. I am planing on making a video and comparing the two V engines. I will make a LDD design of the V4 at the 60 degree V angle. I've lost my original LDD file of my V4 engine so another one will haft to be made if a .lxf file is wanted. All these engine are built using the same cylinders. It is the core of the engine foundations. The attention to detail is very high in building the engines there are many things you want to avoid like loose brick connections. Here is a topic on the matter..http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=45547

Nice job! That is a excellent video you have made. I've got two broken U-joints and been thinking about how to fix them and make it stronger. The heat shrink tubing is a neat idea around the broken u-joint. Are you going to use the tubing to strengthen the future u-joints?

Hi, I've made some Vacuum engines in LDD and I want to show them and explain all the problems with some of the tools that I've encountered when building them. Any comment and suggestion is welcome. First I want to talk about the "Hinge align tool" and how it does not work when connecting the piston rods and valves rods to the crankshaft. I have found no easy way connecting the parts together and you must to do it by hand and it was like throwing darts at a dartboard the piston rods and valves rods being the darts and the crankshafts the bulls eye. Now putting the valves and pistons in the engine design requires building a guide on the digital model to get them centered. The guide process must be removed from the model when the piston and valve are connected up. The building instructions that were produced came out weird and impossible to build like that. So I had to take the individual parts that make up the engine and make separate plans for the frame, cylinder, pistons, air block, and valves and make the plans for them and then through screenshots I try to show you how to put it all together. There should be a way to group certain parts together and label the group so that you tell the computer how this group is made and where it will connect with on others groups. I want to finally add that I was able to crudely rotate the crankshaft along with moving the pistons and valves up and down with the hinge align tool, but that idea only didn't last because the computer gave up looking for the spot. There was no real direct control on the crankshaft. Any other Idea on turning the crankshaft(axle) around to move the pistons and valves didn't work. There should be a way to show the function of the construction buy turning the axle around. I would make and some more engine designs in LDD but connecting the piston and valves is the most difficult thing to do and is really becomes guess wor on every crank throw. It was my first time building with LDD The flat-4 engine was my first design I made in LDD. Edit: I've put a .lxf of the flat-4 engine on brickshelf

Thanks! I've put up a picture of the Capacitor on the motor wire. The capacitor in this setup is known as a decoupling capacitor. The capacitor has many effects here. One efffect that having this capacitor will do is increase the commutator and brush life on the motor. Legomuppet9 has the right idea. See another effect for the capacitor is when you switch motor direction. When you switch the motor direction the capacitor is a reservoir of instantaneous supply of electrical power to the motor to run in the opposite direction...because the capacitor is right next to the motor it is the fastest at delivering the change of current to the motor.

I am a purist when it comes to building, But what if I want to build with Air, or Water, or Electricity, or the power of Magnets. Does LEGO really have to own these elements for me to build with? My thoughts are this achieve what you can with the parts inside the box and batteries are not included.

I have at least 300 mini figures and a couple of monkeys.

WOW! That "LEGO" 1x8 brick Is on all the boxes and for it not to be produced is unbelievable. I saw the "AUTO" 1x8 brick now. It appears the 1x6 brick was smaller than the design. I never imagine that LEGO sold cars especially fire trucks with their bricks. Interesting. Imagine if most of the LEGO bricks made had a engraved visual overlay and building was like a puzzle.

The AUTO brick is probably one of the few ideas that never left that paper. It would be interesting to here if there were more engraved brick ideas that did not make it in to a box.

Now that is something I've been thinking for awhile now. I wonder If it would be able to fit with 4x4 round brick -->

That was interesting read. The OLO lattice fence definitely looks LEGO along with the door and everything else. The bricks up above look like a Duplo block on top.

Amazing! That is a good collection.

Nice work! The suspension looks great. The soft springs makes the suspension look spectacular.