Boxerlego

Well it has been a week and a couple of days since the neodymium magnet has not been on the motor and the motor is still spinning around 400-420 rpm@ 9volts and I've ran this motor pretty long the other day testing out the pneumatic pump regulator. I believe it works. I see that cold temperature is key here for strengthening the magnet field because the opposite is true when you heat the magnet up. I can turn the motor on no problem with the magnet there. When you have the Neodymium magnets on the motor it appears to make way to much current come from the battery than a permanent magnet would require. You can see this here in the video Your motor appears a little slow, 1000rpm in not much compared to the XL motor that spins around 8000 rpm, even with the addition of strengthening the permanent magnet on the motor it might come up to speed with the PF motor.My first motor was from a 18 volt cordless drill found in the trash can. That motor took way to much current to run off the battery box 800ma fuse and would only run for a second. The FC-280PC motor that is used in the XL motor upgrade can possibly be found in car door. Here is a technical data sheet of this motor.

That is awesome. I cant wait to see your take on this. Will you be improving upon the XL motor also? Motor upgrade Update: Strengthen the Permanent Magnet on the motor with out removing the magnet in the motor. I have recently figure out why two identical motors are able to run at different RPM and it involves magnets. Here is a basic How to for you to understand what basically happen to the motor. Now understand that I had bought two motors, I used one motor for the upgrade and I stored the other motor on a neodymium magnet under a metal desk and it was attached to that magnet for several months since like this . There was no intended thought on using the neodymium magnet to strengthen the motors permanent magnets. I was something that was unknowling done. Now I have consider the possibility that there are duplicate version of the motor that spin at different RPM but I've eliminated this possibility out by buying 4 more motors and just by judging by the hum of the motors they sounds just like the motor that spins at 260 RPM. Also just by doing some math and taking the Motor Rpm and multiplying that by the XL planetary gear box 1:36 you get 260rpm*36=9360rpm on the motor shaft @ 9 volts. The technical data sheet for the motor says it spins 12500 rpm @12 volts and that not a big jump from the motor runing @ 9 volts. Now lets grab the motor that spins at 420 rpm @ 9 volts and figure out how fast the motor shaft is and compare to the technical data sheet .... 420rpm*36=15120rpm @ 9 volts. @ 12 volts the motor is rated for 12500rpm. How did this extra rpm appear in the motor especially at 9 volts. It is insane for the motor to run that fast especially @9V which is why I know that the neodymium magnet is the reason for this increase. Now this is the project. Here is the motor that had the JB weld on it and I am using the 6 powerful n50 neodymium magnet field to strengthen the permanent magnet on this motor. I am going to leave that magnets on this motor to sit there for a couple of months to strengthen the motors magnet field. Current rpm is 260. Edit : instead of waiting a couple of months I decided to put the motor with the magnets in the freezer suggested by the How to and wait 24 Hours.

I've decided to make the custom length axles needed for the short axle connections and commit to the design. The 3 mm rigid hose was a very fast and good solution and has the benefit of not requiring the a group of custom length axle to make the desired length. Now here are two different size axles made from the #4 axle that fit with in the #4 and #3 axle. In the picture #4 axle is on top #3 axle is on bottom along with a axle connector with the notches to be a guide to define their size and the two axle in the middle are the custom length. The first custom length axle I made starting from the top is the #3.5 then below that is a #3.25 axle connection. The #3.25 axle length is able to make this connection here represented with the 1x11.5 liftarm double bend and was the beginning example in the OP. The #3.5 axle is used with a #5.5 custom axle on the monster truck frame to align certain nods up on the axle connectors with the studless uniform pattern. Understand that both of these custom axle connection form a isosceles right triangle.

@GDomino: That is awesome job on Zblj panther crawler. Nice work on using the Dick Cepek Giant Pullers tires. It looks bad to bone with'em on. @Zblj: WOW! The panther is amazing and looks great too. I saw it the first day it was posted on youtube. I wanted to build it then but the only thing that was holding me back was the RC motors and the battery. I love the full axle frame design for the roll cage.

The web site will tell you that the 8881 battery box has a current limit of 800ma. Now every time you add a motor to the battery box the battery box must supply the addition current for that motor. Now 1 XL motor draws around 300ma from the battery box. If you were to use 4 XL motors that would be 4X300ma=1200ma total from the battery box and that exceeds the 800ma limiting fuse. Watch the two videos below and you will see it. Edit: But with the neodymium magnets we do not see the 800ma fuse limitation.?

Here is some picture of the second motor design. The first pic is of the motor that had the JB weld job on it. Can you tell which motor it is, top or bottom? The second motor design is able to use any motor that fits inside this shape (see the second picture). I used the original super glue to connect everythingtogether here. Making the plastic part was a very quick process and didn't require much glue to do either compared to the epoxy. All the plastic that made up this part came off the same item and making it was like writing a book. That book started as this. The plastic spool had the right size circle that was able to fit around the motor and the flat end were right for the flat plastic sides that lock the motor in place. Making the parts from the spool is a very precise and critical part and is one part of the key part in making it work. Each plastic part must fit around the motor to form a secure and also removable connection with the motor and must sit straight and level on the planetary gear box as well.

I removed all the JB-weld off the motor and tested it with the second design and the Rpm and it is still the Same 260 Rpm I get some pictures up of what I've done and the second motor too. -BL

I just tested the effect JB weld has on motors by completing my second upgraded XL motor with no JB weld this time around and it spins around 420 Rpm. Compare that to the JB weld motor which spins around 260 Rpm. Now understand that the JB welded motor Rpm was tested during two development stages during the constriction and which both stages tests produced the similar Rpm, first stage was with the liftarms around the motor , and then the completed design . -BL

Hi, welcome to eurobricks Jaggerbombs. How many turns of tape did you do around the diffs?

I took apart the L-motor and the first thing I do is set the L-motor next to the motor in the XL MOD to compare sizes. Both the motors are identical in design alone. However, the L-motor is short in length by a couple of mm compared to the XL MOD motor. There was another goal on opening up the L-motor and that was to check out the planetary gear box, I've been powering my L-motor is with a 8-cell battery boat 10.7 volts. I've been making a second upgraded XL motor and I wanted to take another direction in building it. I intend to use to the gear box as a guide to build a motor case for connecting and centering the motor up with the XL gear box. Nothing is going to be done to the L-motor and the gear box on it. -BL

That is simply incredible. So much function packed on that MOC. One just wonders how many batteries are on that beast. I wonder if #3 is walking around the corner any time soon.

Why not put these ides up on cuusoo?!

Those bangers are weak. And they just lit one too... Why even bother to recorded that... now this is what they should have done is put this rocket inside the lego box.

I was reading through The Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder's Guide By: Paweł "Sariel" Kmieć and on "page 113" he mentions converting the pneumatic cylinders to hydraulics ones by replacing the air with liquid "mineral oil to be exact". It is a small section on the thought on hydraulic cylinders and I feel it can be achievable. If you have the book read the section. Do you think it is possible? and if not why? Now here is some information about the basic principles of the hydraulic systems and the components that make up the hydraulic system. Now there are two type of hydraulic systems open-center and closed-center systems. The LEGO pneumatic system is naturally working as a closed-center system begin the pump/compressor is able to rest and stop pumping air/fluid in to the system. A open-center system has the fluid flowing all the time and uses a valve to revert the fluid back in to the reservoir. If you were to put pressurized liquid in the pneumatic system to the "valves with the control lever" every time you move the control lever side to side. This would be the only option to put the fluid back in the reservoir if you were to use the official valves. Now the old distribution block could be used as a possible return to the reservoir if you connected the middle up to the left or right on the "valves with the control lever" and use the center as a return to the reservoir the left side on the old distribution block will be the main pump and the right will be the pressure side. (Note: your going haft to runs the new valves backwards if you don't want a fountain.The reservoir would definitely be not official LEGO construction. You will need a outlet to the pump at the bottom and a inlet at the top so the fluid can return back to the reservoir. Also the reservoir will need a vent to release pressure that could be created inside. The accumulator would be probably not be needed for the Unofficial hydraulic system because were not using very much energy to work with and smoothing the system out is not critical here. Now what the accumulator does is it acts as a backup for the pump in the event of a pump failure. The accumulator stores energy and release the energy back in to the hydraulic system to keep the pressure up on hydraulicassisted devices in events of an emergency. There are many types of hydraulic pumps. Most of them are positive displacement vane or gear style pumps that can also be driven as a motor when fluid is forced through it; However, The plunger pump style that LEGO has developed is not often used in hydraulic systems but it still could work here. There are many types of valves also. Hydraulic pressure control valves are important to limit the maximum working specific pressure in the system or in a specific section. Hydraulic pressure relief valves which drops the pressure in the system. Then directional control valves that direct the flow of the fluid in the system. The Hydraulic Line is probably the most involving and challenging part to do. For starts couplings would need to be required on the hydraulic lines to secure them on the fittings to prevent hose separation. -BL

That is true for the connection but as long as the axle does not slip out of the U-joint it could work. I'm am forced to use 1/2 stud axle connection on some of my vacuum engine because of the fake engine crank parts. I've had the crank split apart in the middle of a run because of a loose (none tight) axle connections with in the crank piece. Sounds like some Jb weld is needed here.

I've been thinking about using the pneumatics for the front and rear steering. One problem is air pressure has some lag when the pressure is low; however, the pneumatic are able to put more steering force than the servo. So I am going to use the pneumatic for the steering and Alasdairryan video has convinced me enough to do this. Thanks Alasdairryan.

Looks Great! Even for LEGO transporting a tank looks challenging.

You can stack this part with another one on a axle with a 1/2 bushing in-between to get a 1/2 stud offset.

Update: Turns out the BOSS was really a man in a suite. one expensive suite of blue...

WOW! This is excellent. I definitely approve of this. How did you make the plastic washer and is the plastic flexible? Great job on the 8x8wip.

@AndyCW: Thanks for the Link. There was some very interesting items there. Update: I've expanded the shocks distance from 7 modules to 9 modules. I built the axle design with the intended thought of using the rack and pinion for steering. On real monster trucks they use hydraulics for their front and real steering. The mechanical force of a rack and pinon is too weak to move the massive monster truck tires. Here is the nylon washer. Here is one of the pinion gears the was modified to allow some telescopic action.

Welcome! Nice start. The tank looks good. Look forward for more.

@DLuders: I got the nylon washers at the "do it best" hardware store. I've been looking for the nylon washers on the online store and found nothing. They have a bunch of different sizes of nylon washer available. The nylon washer I got was as thin as they get at the store I was at. I haven't been to the other hardware stores looking for nylon washers. Thanks!

Thanks everyone for the comments! I want to focus on the differentials first because it was a must for it to be on the monster truck. I would not have come this far if nothing couldn't be done to improve the differential. So I hope this topic will be a great help to those that want to put some torque to their differentials in their MOCs. Now here are some of my thoughts on the differential and using the shim with it. The differential design is great because of the fact that you can use a shim to strengthen it and also that the differential rides against the shim and not the frame. Shimming the differentials up was the most apparent solution to improve the transfer of torque. To me it appears that the 3L differential are made for shimming. There is a picture below of two nylon washers used to shim the differential gear up. I got the nylon washers in a hardware store opposed to the metal washers I found laying around in the garage. The metal washers were a test shim with the differential and because of its small size and big open center they would fall out of place with the drive gear on the slopes and the differential would slip gear. The nylon washer is an excellent shim and can be sanded down for a great loose fitting support against the differential gear and will not fall out of place with the drive gear at any angle. The nylon washer is about 1mm thick and 32mm in total diameter and the center hole is 10mm in diameter and cost $0.70 each.

Hello, I want to share this Monster truck project that I've been working on and show you the early development of the creations to the design I've got going now. First I want to tell you that this monster truck was made along with the construction the 18volt motor. That 18v motor was made to be power plant for this design. I will start with this picture of the test model that tested the 18-volt drill motor to see if the LEGO gear train could handle the power of the 18volt motor. I made a video showing this test. (Video link: ) The test results were good for everything except the differentials. The test model had front wheel steering but no control mechanism. The early stages of the 18-volt drill motor required a direction connection to a power supply in order to run. The next version of monster truck used portal hubs on the back axle and the 6.5x2 steering arms on the front to create a positive caster angle on the front axle for direction stability. This also had steering but no control mechanism. (Video link: http://youtu.be/56SwhIxCaJA?t=2s) The second version had steering on the front axle but not on the back; However, The steering design was focused on using two servos to operate there respective front and back axles. I also had made a H bridge so I can put more voltage on the motor with a V1 IR receiver and power the motor in both directions. This is also when I used a metal washer to strengthen the differential. (Video link: ) The third version is what is begin built now and is about half way done. This design currently has the possibility of begin all wheel steering and 4 wheel drive from the function of one servo and one motor. I am also considering to not have the battery box inside this design but that still remains a question. The steering on this is the same rack and pinion style on the 8466 4x4 off roader. I am using the pinion gear ability to move back and forth on the rack to act as a kind of telescopic joint to move with the 4 link suspension. Some of the side on the 8 tooth gear will be need to be removed to achieve this telescopic movement. The frame is a unique approach to LEGO construction. It involves in using 3mm rigid hose to make necessary adjustments to the axle members to make the necessary alignments with the studless uniform pattern. (Topic link: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=81752) I will start the topic with this picture Enjoy!