Boxerlego

The axle are not pushed inside all they way on this picture. Once pushed in piratically impossible to get out by hand. I Also like the fact that your only using your hands here. Thanks!

A LEGO that once you put it together you can never take apart.

Ideally a leaf springs needs to be strong and solid with the axle. Your previous Leaf spring design was more solid and strong. This setup looks soft and flimsy for the axle and looks functional have you tested it. Does it work? On a proper leaf spring, the leaf spring bends in a concave inward direction. The example in your video reflects the opposite. It Is more suited for a mechanical damper spring where the spring is always under tension. The true practice of leaf spring uses the compressional facts of the arch. Your just bending Lego and saying it is a leaf spring. I think the Idea is great, and definitely the start of something good, but it is lacking the true proper form that brings function for a proper leaf spring. Right now a group of people in japan are trying to create a LEGO robot that will be able build with LEGO and we cant even attempt a proper leaf spring setup.

Cool for engines? How about Technic Building in general.

A axle connector that can do this.

That guy does not want fame he want you to meet single women with a "16" cylinder engine as a tag. get it 16

That person on ebay should write a description of the model that there selling and not use a description pulled off a website. Why? Because the model their selling is not new. It is used and that means every bit of dirt, scratch, and default that could be. To say that it is in perfect condition is very misleading. Would you call a Model cover in dust in perfect condition? Sure the bricks could be in good quality but after some good use they will have some imperfection. If the seller said that I had to use my teeth to take apart some of the bricks. That would give me a better description about the model than the "available information" that was used.

I Reported that video as a scam. and gave it a

The 1x15 liftarm can be fixed by some heat treatment. The axle is ruined. Personally I would keep them.

This is awesome. I want to say that there are containers that are made up of metal, cardboard, and plastic. (example: planters peanut container) How would this can get sorted.

Good Point. Studless is very useful when it comes to many things. And with all the many useful things that studless can do it has become the ultimate choice to build with. Both Stud and Studless have functionality and have "their" advantages in building and so does the Axle and Wheel.

Dont disable yourself by reducing yourself to the concept of "studless" building.

This looks amazing. Looks like a old open top jeep and judging by the color and the cannon on top, this must be a firetruck. Good Job!

I find it astonishing that winning design was rejected several times along with a late entry and still made it to first place. I'm sure that was a tense time for you. For me the video was the most important factor why I voted for this design. I was not sold with the models made with digital bricks. Though they were some of the best looking models made I wanted to see the design move overall. Congratulation on winning!

I have taken apart the previous custom motor and the XL motor so I can check everything out and compare the two. It was a some what destructive process to get both the motors open and not as easy as others can be. The first item I wanted to check out is the wire. I see the wire that is used wrap the armature on the custom motor is very fine and the size appears to be somewhere around 30-33 awg and the wire that is used on the armature for the XL motor appears even thinner. The custom motor can handle some power (up to 24 volts) but the motor required most of the load from 9v AA battery box to work well. However, two of these custom motors are to much for a single battery box to be powered effectively. The custom motor has two magnets with some gaps in between while the XL motor has one magnet that is completely surrounding the armature. One major difference between the two motors is the brushes.

That is a excellent MOC engine. Looks just like the real deal.

Instead of making a pneumatic reversal switch to switch the engine direction. Go for the mechanical solution to reverse the engine. This way you can still have one pneumatic valve on the engine design. This Stephenson valve gear would solve this challenge very effectively. What do you think?

I dont know if this will work with your pneumatic reversal switch idea but you could control the pneumatic piston off four valves with each valve combining the exhaust and intake. You would have two sets of valves, one for forward drive and the other set for backward drive.

A one way air valve for a fish tank would solve the problem with the air escaping from the other valve but you would need 4 one way valves for it to work .

WOW! You have done some excellent work on this truck. I want to say that a True Mack truck has a Bulldog on it. Good job on the lights too. Does it all run off the Battery box? Another item that would put it over the top is reflective tape. Good work on the overall design.

@ DLuders: Thanks for the suggestion. You definitely see the challenge I face when I use JB around anything that has magnets . I have consider using a non-magnetic epoxy and see the benefits that come along. One comparison is that JB weld requires 8 hours to harden when Loctite epoxy requires 300 seconds to harden. With my previous magnet design that uses the Technic axle connector with pole connected to the 16 tooth gear. The JB bond between these Lego pieces is practically inseparable for Lego standards. I have had a couple of magnets that have broken free from the JB bond but I never had any separation between the Lego parts when picking up heavy loads around 4.5 kg. The magnets that have broken free from the cold weld bond were due to the strong magnetic force that allows the magnets to slam together. Another possible contributing factor why the bond will fail is because of a unclean oily dirty surface that could be on the neodymium magnet. I dont know how well the clear epoxy will bond to the magnet and Lego . I am thinking about getting some clear non-magnetic epoxy and see how well it is able to bond to the surface of the neodymium magnet and do some Lego pull test to compare the different types of epoxy bonds. This would be interesting test to do.

Hello everyone, I want to share with you this simple Lego magnet design. This combination is composed of a 1/2 inch standard nut and that is threaded on to a Technic axle connector. The goal for this design is to use cylindrical shape of the magnet as a piston. With my previous design I used JB weld to make the bond Lego with the magnet and for this to happen the epoxy must cover the edges of the magnet sealing it in and this ruined the ability for the magnet to function as a piston. This new design relies on the magnetic bond between the steel nut. Note: that the steel nut possess a stronger bond with the neodymium magnet than the Lego magnet. I want to put some JB weld to this simple design in a manner that will not cover the edges to enforce the connective strength between the nut and magnet. I have made another magnet concept design this one focus on using both N/S sides of the magnet field. Check out my playlist on magnets

These robots are awesome. With your plant watering robot I like how you keep the water in circulation to prevent stagnation. That is very important. Check out this video

Finally, Is there any speculation on how much the servo and L motor will cost.

I thought the Enforcer was going to win when I voted. It was up by 150 votes over The Boss.