Boxerlego

Looks unique. Could be useful. I am interested on how it will be used.

Awesome 3 speed gear box. I definitely like this idea. What are the gear ratios?

This is cool. Looks fun to play with off or on the water. I like how you attached the bottles. Very Lego friendly Overall it is very well made, outstanding that it was built for floating on top of water and cleaning it as well.

LEGO is not RC. RC wishes it was LEGO. You break a RC things will get complicated real quick. All the RC parts out there are RC parts nothing more or less. With LEGO it is not that simple. It is all about how you want to build. some go easy some take it to far. Some people want to build as high as they can others want to reach new speeds. A 4800mah 9 volt battery box would be as good as using two 8881 battery boxes. In my opinion, destroying the battery box for a better battery supply is the not the path to go down.

Lego could have the possibility to fit 4 9v batteries inside the battery box.That is a whopping total of 4800mah with the lithium. I usually try to power my servo motor separate from my drive motors. I do this with a nine volt battery and a moc PF wire.

A regular akaline 9volt battery 500 mah is nothing in power what you need is lithiuim 9 volt 1200mah power Check out this Nine volt data sheet here http://en.wikipedia...._specifications

@Cheng Fei: Indeed it is almost frictionless. It has only one point of contact. @Alasdair Ryan: A Lego Maglev Train would be incredible to watch. @Hopey: A this distances it can support a couple of ounces. Making a true magnetic suspension field feels impossible.

I wonder if it was the fanbase of Lego that made this happen.

Well the people at Purdue university just got there mascot PurduePete the 10,000 votes required in 36 hours. What do you think about it? Is it fair for some one with the backing of an entire school to do this when the average Lego builder works out their house.

One day I got the Idea to JB weld some powerful neodymium magnets to Lego. I wanted to see what I could possibly build with magnets using the Lego system as my structural design. I have manage to build two interesting contraptions at the moment. My goal is to build this along many other machines in Lego Techinc. What are your thoughts on a Lego Technic Magnet?

I like the possibilities on what the 9398 special edition could be.

@DLuders: I have not shunted any of the fuses on my battery boxes. The only thing I have done to my battery box is fix it. When I first took apart my battery box I rip the red and black wires apart when I separated the two half's. I had to remove the broken wires and replace them. There is no room for error when replacing the large red wire and the small black wire. I got the battery box back to working order.

I have recorded some more test with the Dual Battery box. I even tested out the M motor with the extra volts. I got 660 rpm out the M motor and surprising its quite powerful too. @ DLuders, Thanks for the welcoming, I think the video is very good addition to the page. I guess you got to shunt both the battery boxes and have two V2 IR receivers to run a RC motor at higher voltages as well. I don't have a 5292 RC motor to test, but I can assure you it will love the extra power. Just keep it safe around 12 volts.

Happy new year everyone!

I wish I had saw this earlier. I have done the same thing basically to my crawler but with 8 cell battery pack instead. I used rechargeable batteries to get a voltage around 10 volts, this way I wont destroy the IR receiver. Usually a 8 cell battery box with alkaline batteries will get around 12 volts which is enough to destroy the IR receiver. What broke? A Lipo battery is dramatically lighter compared to AA batteries.

Here is a better method of powering the LEGO PF system than destroying a battery box. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5599562

Look at the Tire Tread on both the pictures. There not the same. The FAKE has square shape treads while the REAL DEAL does not. http://www.regiojatek.hu/data/regio_images/normal/07981_0.jpg http://p6.hostingprod.com/@southernseller.com/8273frtbetsmlr.jpg

I believe in the possibility that a LEGO helicopter can fly and be controllable aswell. It probably wont fly like the Apache. But that should be the goal.

Hello BachAddict. In order to get the additional power output you will need two battery boxes along with two IR receivers. Doing this with a single battery box and IR receiver you will gain nothing in power for the motor and a fuse will most likely stop this.

Hi Kierna, Good question. The Un-used ports are technically the same ports you are connecting together. You can have a motor on one of the IR receivers un-used ports, though you would power every motor at once. This power setup is not for Servo motors... Now this does not mean you can have another IR receiver connected on one of the dual battery boxes controlling a Servo motor. I have used Alkaline and Rechargeable battery types there both safe to use. I have never gone above 16 volts on any of the motors yet. Hi DLuders, I can confirm these inquiries. I used rechargeable AA batteries in the video. They were fully charged and combined together creating a 16 volt gap to power the XL motor. Understand that the motor wont burn up, there is a resettable fuse to prevent this kind damage occurring. The video is short and not exactly flat out convincing. I will make the video better in display how safe this is for the motors. And Yes the IR receivers are old (version 1) types and not the newer types.

Hello fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am Boxerlego. I want to Introduce myself along with this technical tutorial on a dual PF battery box setup. This no hack, this is science and knowledge along with real experience with each of the devices and their respective function. I will explain thoroughly why this works and why it is absolutely safe for the IR receivers and motors. First thing is some battery safety. It is very Important that you are using the same type of batteries for both the battery boxes. Never connect up two dissimilar types of batteries together. Connecting two 9 volt battery boxes together is very safe to do, nothing is going to "burn up" on you when connected together as mentioned. Each of the electrical connections are made entirely out of Lego and combines both style of electrical connections to get working. There will be a simple alternative method to hook up the dual battery setup only requiring the PF extension wires. Moving to motors. I suggest on using the PF L or XL motor or a 5292 buggy motor with this battery setup. This is not for powering servo motors or micro motors old the old 9V motors. It is important to know that there is a resettable fuse protecting each of the suggested motors along with the battery boxes and IR receivers. I do not recommend putting the voltage over 16 volts on the Lego motors. Most motors typically can handle 12 volts. There are many things to understand about the electrical function that is at work here. I have created Two simple pictures detailing the two electrical functions and how they both end up at 18 volts. I will start with the #2 picture. The #2 picture represents when the battery boxes are connected together in series providing you with a +18 volt power. Understand that all the electrical wires are connected together to establish a electrical path, directly connecting both the battery boxes together to function as one combined battery box for the motor. The #1 picture represents using the dual IR receiver connection and how you can safely create a voltage gap between a positive(+) and a negative(-). Neither of the IR receivers is ever exposed to the same load the motor is receiving. Instead, each of the IR receivers is carrying the load of their perspective battery box. This voltage gap creates the theoretical 18 volt supply for the motor. You will need 2x 9V PF battery box 2x IR receiver 3x PF extension wire 2x 9V Motor Wire 1x IR switch remote 1x of the suggested motors I will start with the two 9V motor wires... Connect the two 9V motor wires on a 2x6 plate like so... Look carefully at the short wire and how the electrical contacts are Aline... Connect two of the PF extension wires together with a 2x2 plate... Put a red and blue 1x2 plate on to the PF extension wires... Connect the PF extension wire setup to the 9V motor wire setup... This is what is should look like... Hook up your battery boxes with the IR receivers... (Important Note: If you are doing this with NO IR receivers, the switches on the battery boxes should be turned on opposite directions of each other when connected with the motor.) Make sure both IR receivers are set on the same channel... Connect the blue PF cable to the blue terminal on one of the IR receiver And then On the other IR receiver connect the red PF cable to the red terminal... (Note: If your doing this with out the IR receivers. Connect each of the cable to a separate battery box. Remember to switch the battery boxes on in opposite directions) Connect both the switches on the IR remote together as one and set on the same channel as the two IR receivers... It is very Important that the two polarity switches on the IR remote are switched opposite of each other... The 9V motor wire is where you will connect your motor to... When connecting up a PF motor simply connect the PF extension wire on top of the 9V motor wire and the PF motor on top of that and you ready to go. Here is a test to see if this increased voltage will cause any kind of damage to the motor when pulling up this 7.5 lb weight. The first test shows the safety fuse in action. Next I put the M motor to the 16 volt power pull test. The final video is a demonstration that no matter how big or small the battery is, a motor will behave the same as long the volts are the same. Edit: The information in this tutorial will be improved upon periodically.