brunojj1

Hi @tomlegoNC : welcome to EB! No need to start a new thread on this. As Snipe said - just check the instructions and spare out the 4 motors in the rear of the car. Only the full version is shown there. I suggest you simply combine BOTH of the downgrades, fill the spaces as shown in the LDD files to keep the chassis solid. Don´t forget to connect the engine with the differential to keep that function .

Mould King is the (un-)official successor of Lepin. They´re doing the same evil thing with our MOCs, just copying everything promising they can get their dirty hands on. First it was the brand XQ, after Lepin was closed they made another set of my McLaren P1 inspired model. Now Mould King offers the third (!) knock-off of this car.. Btw. all 3 versions are not working properly, there are mistakes in the instructions, some parts are missing and so on. Mould King also made a set of the RC version of my Mercedes AMG DTM. Please don´t get me wrong, I´m not here to advertise anything, but just to answer the OP´s qustion, since these companies didn´t ask for permission nor don´t they ever mention the designer. I´m enraged about this fact and don´t recommend this rubbish to anybody . It´s still a pretty bad thing for our beloved Lego hobby!

The link was posted on page 4, here it is: https://bricksafe.com/files/Charbel/rebrickable_parts_mclaren-720s-part-list.csv You just need to upload the file on rebrickable as custom list and then you can compare / deduct / order etc.

The shown scheme might appear clear in its lucidity as the concept. But it´s not very practical to install into a chassis, I mean you need to use halfstud setups in both dimensions horizontal and vertical. Understanding of a 4-speed gearbox usually might be what beginners are looking for to instantly build something around it. The good old traditional 4-speed with changeover catches or the „first half“ of the Bugatti gearbox seem to be more suitable for that. Anyway, very nice explanation .

@Jeroen Ottens: It´s way too much of political correctness, just my opinion. As well I find it´s a pity with the too short presentation of 2 different supercars in one topic which are both designed in a brilliant way. We all would appreciate to see more pictues from all angles, learn about the Technical details. Moreover I think it´s not a sin to post direct links to the instructions here (although taking the "penalty risk" of not being frontpaged). You are a professional designer who bravely has taken more risk than anybody, nothing to be ashamed of. So let´s talk about the Lamborghini Miura Concept. There was a WIP topic for this car earlier. The detachable bodywork is a dream, especially considering the limitations you´ve had in the dark azure color! How far is the distance between the unfinished prototype and the result you´re showing us today? Lamborghini Gallardo in dark blue: the front looks very smooth and authentic. The rear part consisting of the system plates probably can´t be done better due to the parts range available in this color. The car would look even better with the Bugatti wheels. Now the roof mechanism – magnificent work, hats off! I couldn´t immagine something like this is possible at all. Then I´m really curious about the gearbox/servo shifter. Going to get the instructions immediately to find out.

You mean my version of the 720s looks better than yours ? Maybe yes. Honestly, I admire your achievement on the paneling so much and that´s why it looks better than my P1. Hats off Sir !

One brand, one passion. Two different building styles. Sorry if the pictures don´t give enough justice to Charlies 720S! This time I should have used another background than white.. I love this model very much, and I was lucky to get the instructions beta version to build it as soon as possible. I´ve had tremendous fun building it! The functions work smoothly and are very easy to operate. There is a releatively simple 8-speed gearbox, working like a charm. The overall looks are great! Some interesting building techniques are behind all those crazy angles for the panel attachments, but obviously the hard design work paid off in the end – the bar for future supercar designs has been raised especially in this field in particular. One thing I don´t like about this model are the seats. They are colliding with the doors closed and slightly bending inwards. Maybe I´ve built or attached them not correctly, but I´ve double checked them and found no error. The shaft for the gearbox shifters is going near the tunnel, that doesn´t allow the seats to be placed 1 stud closer to the middle unfortunately. The major difference I noticed in comparison to my P1 is the wheelbase being 3 studs shorter. When it comes to scaling I usually make my cars 1-2 studs longer compared to blueprints. That trick seems to balance out some bumps and overlenghts in other places and helps to keep the visual proportions. But I must say you don´t really notice it to be a problem on the 720S if you don´t have both cars next to each other. The wheel arches are very tight and the overall proportions are not really compromised IMO. I´ve made some customizations to my taste, using chromed Bugatti wheels + red brake calipers and adding some white parts around the wheel arches and white flex axles at the doors. Thanks for sharing your work on this stunning replica with us @Charbel !

Great to hear about that! People can´t hardly valuate enough your decision to offer instructions, considering the fact all your latest designs have been stolen by the damn socialists from darkland. Wish you all the luck with that, curious how that will turn out and how long you can protect it. I fear it will take only one traitor and your IP is gone.. Since you can´t expect much profit, you should ask a higher price IMO, at least 10% of the parts worth people are willing to spend. Please register me on the wishlist too: brunojayjayone@gmail.com Thanks, it´s always an honour! I will take apart my white RC version to free the PF parts for another project and build this 720S, I really need to have it on my shelf as well (and learn something about Charlies genious building techniques ).

It´s simply the lower part of the mini antenna , you might have them lying around for decades..

The 8t gears didn´t crack so far, being extensively loaded and after long use, whether in the manual nor the RC version of my McLaren. I don´t care about slightly twisting axles as long they´re not breaking or twisting irreversibly, as long the heavy duty mechanism does it´s job, but that indeed could be the case. Then you probably might consider to use the Porsche or Chiron parts, use appropriate wheels & hubs and build the axle 29 - 33 studs wide total. That requires more engineering and more parts. On the other hand it opens a wider range of possibilities.

What scale are you trying to build in? However, I have reservations concerning the mounting points of the springs, only 1 per side, if they can hold the weight of the finished car.. The steering hubs / arms are not the problem. The steering links need to go parallel to the arms if you want to avoid toe in / toe out while compressing the suspension. You will soon find out it´s difficult to make the height adjustable. Forget about the mini LA´s – most likely they cannot hold the stress at the end, loose synchronisation after „klicking" on one side or the other. Once I came up with the following solution with 8-tooth gears operated by worm gears which was reliable and strong enough, connected/synchronised and routed to the middle of the car: I don´t recommend anything particular of the given setup, but maybe it helps to get any fresh idea. The big disadvantage of the shown axle were the wheels wobbling due to the used hubs and custom steering arms enhancing the effect, but the priorities were others. Another inspiration to your particular needs could be something like this:

Welcome @Nura! Great accomprishment there, thanks for sharing your great work with the Golf GTI with us! The car is instantly recognizeable and you´ve built a nice stage for the presentation, like the video too. It´s a great pity the car can´t drive ... I´m struggling with similar issues in my current project and kind of stuck again. I guess it´s only possible to hold the changeover catches in place and prevent the driving rings to slide only by using the force of pneumatics - not an option for me however. I agree with others on the fenders, but you are right they represent the real car pretty well though.

Why give up so quickly?? I liked your choice. You could try to ask these guys for (exclusisve) 2D renders: I´m sure this guy will have the car in the portfolio soon and will be able to help you too : https://squir.com/ I´ve bought 2D blueprints for a Ferrari for 20 bucks from him some time ago. In the meanwhile you could work on your chassis first and decide what car to build on top later!

Why would you want to make instructions? If for others you need to end up with a good model first. Then take risk to be ripped off by the Chinese without earning a penny. If for yourself, it´s enough to take the model apart after having considered it as really finished and then simply make pictures of the particular subassembly and the parts it contains. Working with software is something which requires a lot of learning again, it´s no fun at all for most builders I´m aware of.

No need to be magical, it´s all about thinking & work. I found the best advice here came from T Lego, you should follow it. Don´t be too strict about "rules", find out yourself - it´s the major part of having fun playing . Of course one can avoid many mistakes usually made by beginners (all of us were at some point). You should visualize your end result, make compromises but don´t let go your dream! Immagine the finished car, but start with the solid basis first - the chassis. Take your time and never give up, because that´s the difference between losers and winners - the latter always take that one impossible step further where everybody else would give up.

Let the OP decide himself what he himself considers to be true and let everybody have their own opinion, please! As far as I know, this forum is not owned by TLG but is dedicated to discussions around the hobby. Another prominent example in Germany where TLG issued a warning by their lawyers regarding potential trademark infringements, was a German Lego store owner, Held der Steine, who was selling mostly Lego products. Back then he was a normal retailer making YT reviews about Lego products only (free advertising for TLG!). He had his own logo, formerly showing a brick with 4 nipples on top (which btw is not patented per se) – the controversy was all about this trademark logo by which the customers allegedly were supposed to identify/confuse him as the official Lego company. The result of the whole argument wasn´t a battle in court, but simply a change of the logo ... and a complete change of the product portfolio in his business. Now he is promoting other brick brands as well, amongst TLG products. Who cares...

Very cool F1 car in a refreshing color scheme ! The dark blue color is kind of inviting to build a Red Bull vehicle and the suggested red/yellow sections built of parts instead of stickers are very original. I like the suspension and especially the opening underbody - a feature I´d consider to implement at some point too. I´d prefer to see the narrow wheels from the 42000 set at the front to get more realistic, but then you´d have to paint the standard rims which of course would be a crime for a pure purist ..

Terrific MOC, didn´t expect such one from you ! That blue clutch gear sticking out at the rear wheel is kind of disturbing, but the design solution is genious.

Terry, thank you for sharing this beautiful and instantly recognizeable replica with us! Great job on the bodywork and respect for putting in all that functionality . Reminds me of my current to-do-list, namely the BMW 428i Gran Coupé I´m driving and which needs to be built soon in Lego Technic . I have to agree with others that I´d prefer to see your model without stickers. The front and overall look would be cooler IMO if lowered by half a stud probably. Can it be adjusted independently in relation to the rear axle?

I don´t care if it´s recommended somewhere in small letters - the box clearly says „OFF-ROADER“ + the picture on the box is clearly advertising a use in an outdoor environment. Almost all significant reviews shown on YT are testing it outside, quite reasonable to have a bit of fun playing. I mean there are big letdowns for me as a potential buyer - first my disappointment about the new BT technology, not being compatible with most older electronics. The app being non-open-source which could mean after one year or two it´s becoming useless even for the set itself if not being updated permanently for all upcoming devices. Now I even can´t use the new hubs and u-joints which I was expecting to give me some advantage above the older hubs in any of my future applications. The price tag about 230,00 EUR I simply refuse to accept as a customer. And yes, it was only expressing my critical personal (non-biased) opinion, which I based on other experts reviews.

So after all the other the other drawbacks in the glorious 42099 crawler set and the damaged u-joints you demonstrated earlier, I see not one single little reason to consider anything of it to be useful. Shame on the TLC for spending as many resources into the research and development of "new generation" components and making the set so expensive. The product development in general makes me sick when I compare it with the happy days 6-7 years ago.

Oh sorry , my sincere apologies for not being precise enough! Should I say "engine hood" instead of "engine cover"? Btw., no need to fix anything on my behalf or satisfy anybody else than yourself in general, only if you feel the need for the sake of Your project improving the appearance by some minor but crucial changes. I was talking particularly about this area here: Maybe you would feel the need / see a chance / be happy with moving the lower panel 1/2 stud up. Of course I don´t know if the new attachment points would interfere with anything else, it´s just an idea: Or 1 entire stud up + adding a 8x1 tile at the bottom not to ruin the line:

Thanks for sharing, I´m pretty excited to see it revealed finally ! The bare chassis is a piece of art on its own, the overall appearance doesn´t disappoint in any way . Fantastic functionality considering the limitations at the given scale, especially the (widely) opening doors & engine cover ! Some minor critics must come from me regarding the area around the rear wheel arches and the big gap between the engine cover and the lower panel. However, the side view still looks very uncompromised and lovely. Enjoy your great success with this stunning creation!

Great & realistic design ! It´s nice to see more and more supercars appear on the forum build in the 1/12 scale. You´ve put the doors at a nice angle. Love the fact it´s RC and the placement of the PF components ! Putting it at Lego Ideas is a waste of time and energy, just my opinion. Sadly, there´s a great chance to be released as a set somewhere else where you don´t want it..

Very impressive ! Good to see you in action again, no matter how fast time is flying - for me You were pointing the way by your style and this sort of professionalism ever since I can remember . Love all the details by which one can judge the passion and the tremendous amount of work put into this creation. The universal truck base probably could serve for many modification options like an Unimog - I´d love to have a lovely simple tipping bed on it.