brunojj1

I have read "LGBT" first and instantly linked it to the "color coding issue" in my mind whysoever...

5: 10 7: 6 4: 4 8: 3 6: 2 2: 1

Your wording was offensive, although I personally can live with that as well. Presenting dry facts in a boring manner is ... well, boring to read. It was your opinion expressed with some passion, emphasized by some strong words and you got an adequate answer . Let´s remember we are not dealing with some outraged Twitter mob here, so there is a way to be polite and express yourself as gentlemen. Edit: too political

Nice "discussion" around here, very entertaining ! I have developed that kind of shizophreny: I buy and collect the Lego Technic supercars (original), no matter how good or bad or ridiculously expensive they are. Starting with nostalgic 8865 + 8880 to keep those sweet memories . I will also buy the worst Techis set of all times, the 42125 Flexari, build it all original, except the suspension lowered as it is supposed to be. Together on one shelf with the old Racers Ferraris and the Porsche RSR to complete the lineup. The USC 1/8 cars on the same shelf. Btw. my 5y old daughter likes the latter very much because of the handbags to play with, so that´s mostly the reason I take them off the shelf sometimes . On the second shelf I put my own creations on display. Sometimes I take them off the shelf to play with, check the functions or put some different wheels on. This way I can overcome the sorrow I would have with the models on the other shelf if standing alone. No whining, no complaining at all .

You have experimented a lot, so I tend to believe what you say . Anyway, I will deduce my eperience from own experiments. Carbon axles + special fiberglass reinforced parts (which nobody else owns yet ) + metal u-joints and the best possible mix of gears available to reduce slack and friction will do the job. I´ll be testing both 2x BuWizz 2.0 and 2x CaDA batteries / 2x remotes coupled. Whether in ludicrous mode or not - it will be fast ! I´m not allowed and not willing to disclose anything from my current projects, so please be patient for the release which will be at some time this year hopefully and God willing we will stay alive all together. Thank you so much! It´s a valuable contribution along with your HOG shifter paddles activated in your previous post !

If somebody has no time / no brain to figure out how to substitute the motor placeholders by some motors, we can´t help them. We are here to work out and improve things to step up the game and not serve everything on the silver tablet to the lazy people. @astyanax: Thank you again for sharing all your fun, it´s heartwarming at least for me! Your headlights look stellar, on the other hand it´s a pity they can´t be illuminated. The comparison pics with the Sian are cool to see! If somebody is wondering how they are so different in size - the real cars have almost 40cm difference in length (!), resulting in 5cm difference scaled down. So everything is pretty much in 1/8 scale. I bring my chassis width down to 29 studs to keep proportions right btw. Do you have a short video demonstrating the speed of the car? I´d be highly interested to see the performance you could achieve! He has used 2x Buwizz units as far as I´m concerned, along with many system pieces to improve the looks. That explains to me the increased weight. After finishing my current (secret!) project in a few months, I´m planning to build my own ultimate version. Whether a Pista Piloti inspired version in blue or yellow Novitec-pimped evolution. Underneath 2x BuWizz and 4x CaDA motors geared up perfectly and get the max out of the car in fourth gear.

Excellent job on the gearbox! I love it how you explain everything in the video so people get aware it´s all about rationality, no magic behind it and yet so fascinating . Though it has nothing to do with a real Ferrari 488 GTE transmission which is of a sequential paddle shift kind. Second, it will nowhere fit the actual Lego set 42125 you are referring to.

How dare you to confuse your Bricks with LEGO(R)? The easter bunnies will come after you soon for THE PURGE! Cheers !

I have a question about CV joints (2 parts on the most left in the picture). As we know these pieces are wearing out quickly, especially under heavy load - for which they supposedly were designed for. Is R&D developing something better? Do they consider to use fiber glass / carbon fibre / metal to reinforce those parts so the hardcore fans can push performance to next level?

Nice Audi R8 ! An interpretation which Helge Myhre can only dream of . And thank you for sharing a bit of the background story and WIP struggles with us. Considering the given limitations regarding colors, squarish arch panels and others, you have done an amazing job. I love all the mechanics you have managed to put in, especially the retractable roof / engine cover ! AWD would be mandatory to me which I would have never sacrificed for a better turning radius but keep the authentical basic Audi feature. I have to agree with @T Lego about the „flatness“, but only regarding the rear of the car, the front seems to be within proportions for me.

I used 11L axles and 16L axles at the skirts originally. Both didn´t exist in the CaDA parts catalogue.

This is no doubt a blatant ripp-off of my current model at least in some major parts. To fit the big wheel arches they needed to shorten the door, but otherwise it´s almost the same as on my car. My doors consist of 170+ parts, 46 steps devoted in the instructions. Then they imitated the box cover from CaDA#61042 for whatever reason, especially the black and white stripes which I can´t detect on the car btw. The seats look like ripp-offs from the Sian. I´m curious about the chassis underneatch the shiny shell. Wouldn´t be surprised to discover some nasty things there too... EDIT: I don´t really care too much about this happening. The car looks nice in some way, honestly .

@thekoRngear: I´m happy you finally got your set, whatever the reasons for the delay might have been in these difficult times. 1. It seems you got the version produced for "mainland China" which is marginally different from the "international" version (besides pricewise). It´s safe to say 14+, no 6 year old on this planet will be able to accomplish the task. Otherwise it doesn´t matter. 2. If you browse a few pages back (p.11 - XenoRad), you will find the typical spare parts assembly. Don´t ask me why they are so many .. 3. Check my video and get the 4 easy fixes which will improve things slightly but significantly. You can use the black thin wires (the ones wrapped around the brandnew motors cables) to attach the wiring properly e.g.. Use the metal U-joints at the rear axles, instead of the weaker plastic counterparts. The battery has about 20% power, so it needs to be fully charged first. Full recharging takes approx. 4 hours.

I thought we have to respect the rest of the community as well, my friend. Your specific question for help is completely out of place in this topic. It wasn´t meant I do not care about you or your country, it´s simply not important for me. You are welcome whereever you come from. Misunderstandings occur when different mentalities meet. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Fantastic, my friend! That´s where the real fun starts. You should start building your own Farreri soon ! I´m really wondering why still nobody has built it with some buggy motors. I don´t have the time unfortunately... I´m afraid it´s not possible. If you have seen these photos or similar interpretations on others, try to ask them or better - build something yourself which really suits your needs, no matter how long it takes. Seriously ?? People from all around the big world are talking here. We are here to discuss things, but we cannot help you because we don´t know (and we don´t care) where you come from and how the shipping is going. Please ask your seller, shipper, customs broker or whatever. It´s Covid times and that maybe a reason for a delay (?!) Otherwise, you are welcome!

Ok, maybe we should explain a bit better how a „simple“ 4-speed RC gearbox concept can work and how you can step up the game. Using Sariel`s Gear Ratio Calculator makes life easier. We are skipping equal meshes and count all gear reductions till the differential. 1.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/24 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.8 2.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.3 3.GEAR: 20/24 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.7 4.GEAR: 20/28 = 1 : 1.4 By swapping the gears behind the differential we are having the following sequence: 1.GEAR: 12/20 + 24/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.9 2.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.3 3.GEAR: 24/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.17 4.GEAR: 20/28 = 1 : 1.4 Somebody might say we have messed up the sequence now. It´s not the case if you simply reverse the sequence and change numbers (in your mind first ) : 2 → 1; 1 → 2; 4 → 3; 3 → 4

Basically the shown stepper is my idea. But I don`t want to claim anything here because my idea is based on an idea which is based on another idea from somebody else etc. I think the most progress on steppers in general has been made and shared here by @Didumos69 and other nice guys. I needed it to be compact and reliable and it is. The jamming which sometimes occurs, mostly in one of the both directions, is due to interference of the orange +0 beams with the red 16t gear on the middle axle - the CaDA parts have sharper edges and can collide sometimes (where Lego parts don´t!!). Easy fix #1 was offered in my video to deal with that. I´m interested in such a solution. Though I think you will have to modify the construction under the roof quite a bit, at least. If you get it running at this gear combo, using 4x CaDA motors and double BuWizz at ludicrous speed and make a video of it - that would be the icing on the cake of everything, my friend !! In the meanwhile there is the possibility to have a more moderate upgrade by swapping the rear gears like this:

You are absolutely right! Unfortunately I couldn´t find any documentation on this experiment, but I think now I got it right: Make sure you brace the gears properly from both sides! I don´t have any video. I didn´t build it with 4x CaDA motors because I don´t like to couple 2x remotes. However I love how this thread is developing into a "pimp-my-car" topic .

Yes! I was talking about this upgrade:

@astyanax & @amorti: nice mods, thanks for entertaining ! The original idea with the 4x L motors was to gear everything up by the factor 20/12 (and successfull in experiments). You could place the gears behind the "wall" facing towards the rear axle. Though I can`tell you if any other device than 2x Buwizz can handle that composition.

Really nice job you have done here ! Especially if this is supposed to be you first MOC (which I strongly doubt). You have reached many of your self imposed goals regarding the functionality. Not least the great body shapes you have managed to replicate which makes the car instantly recognizeable. One thing which bothers me are the front wheelhouses - the use of sloped bricks seem to be not the perfect choice. The first time I got familiar with the McLaren Senna, there was an article with few pictures somewhere. In the first sentence the author was saying something like "It looks like a Lego car". I didn´t like the shape so much compared to the P1, but I couldn´t agree more on that sentence.

In terms of lines crossing with the front end parts - I would agree on this part. Otherwise I can assure you the bonnet can be closed entirely without any problems if the double hinges pushed back entirely, battery box underneath and wiring installed properly, the mentioned stand tilted forward, not backward. Most people don´t do one of these so it doesn´t close and that´s it. Most collectors do. I forgot to push the "don´t criticize me" button (joke) This virtual reality doesn´t represent literal reality where the bricks behave different! I have followed your suggestion - it looks bad:

Great job, this looks like 100% purely made in France ! Most I love the tons of functionality you are always squeezing into the square. And respect for changing the scale frequently. How much is that a challenge on its own and how interesting?

+1 It can be helpful from time to time to lissen to experts, take their (typical) humour (or lack of it) as granted. Just don´t make the same mistakes in the next project and develop clever techniques. But there are very different people with different goals from different continents with very different mentalities on here...

@JunkstyleGio : Thank you and all other guys for posting your feedbacks, I´m glad you like it! For me it´s weird, but one bothering thing I´m used to observe in almost every review: the rear fenders should be attached horizontally, one stud higher on the front panel. Also the flex axles on the rear spoiler should be going behind and around the 5x7 panels, forming a nice C- curve.