amorti

I tend to agree - why spend time to make it less realistic?

I think it's a simple, but good model! The kind of thing Lego could've sold a ton of, if they'd wanted to before PF ended. I'm thinking a small turntable could fit in the back as a trailer hitch.

These are getting pretty old. Anything plastic can eventually wear out. Or i may have dirt inside. Is the steering unit able to be disassembled for a look-see?

550mah isn't much. Anyone know just what type of battery that is? And what capacity you could get for a sensible investment?

What battery is in there? Could it be upgraded with more capacity? It'll happily drive a 2kg model with 4 L motors and a servo at a decent speed. But only for about 5 minutes.

Yep, in the meantime I'd thought about using 4L axles with stops, up through the bottom. I hadn't thought of a 3L beam, that's good as it would slip over the plain round part of the CV joint and anchor the axles. Those yellow half bushes outside the rim are to keep the wheel tight against the turntable. I think it will be loose without them, although there may be enough stabilisation from that double pin/axle connector in the middle. Like the use of "contraption". These hubs were already complex and not trivial to construct. This is going to be even more interesting!

What's this orange/brown pulley wheel called? Spotted it in a group listing and I think it'd fix even more points than a pulley wheel. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jBbWMHvqxGoiTMPT7 Dangit, it's a whole stud thick. They've left the bottom part of the male CV shaft round (to reduce friction?), so that's out.

Pulley wheels - that's exactly what I wasn't thinking about. Nice one! Leaves me wishing for a half stud thickness pin connector / washer, but yes I think that would do it. Gives you half a stud of axle connection from the pulley wheel into the turntable plus half a stud direct into the wheel rim, while helping centre the whole lot. Doesn't give anywhere to anchor the two yellow half bushes outside the rim which set the clamping distance like 6553 does, but if no other solution offers itself I'm pretty sure those would just stay by laying them in the "lugnut" hole.

+1 on the point +1 on the obviously Putting legal and illegal builds to the side (yes I'm aware it's a shame on a didumos build), how would one go about obtaining one of those red connectors with an axle hole in the middle, and maybe 1L of axle either end? Must be possible to 3d print something of the same rough shape, but what about material strength and fit tolerance? Or is there a claas tyre compatible wheel with an axle hole right the way through?

I guess you put the female (axle hole) end to the motor as I did, because the male (axle) side doesn't reach the motor. You end up with an axle pointing to the wheel. If you put the wheel the same side out as didumos, the axle doesn't reach the axle hole in the wheel. If you put the wheel the other side out, you'll get half a stud of connection into the wheel, but also a little play between wheel and turntable, enough that the whole thing shakes. The wheels I have are same as from 42099. The 2L wheel centre hub has an axle hole but only half way through it. If you put the wheel the way out if needs to be (this side against the turntable) you don't reach a crosshole. Are there wheels which fit those tyres, but with an axle hole the full way through? Ideally in black.

I'm still testing it for durability, but it works fine. Worst case scenario, you can program the buwizz to steer a little less tightly.

Looking for help, either from didumos, or from the collective. I have built greyhound and it's awesome. Not awesome like a hotdog, but awesome like the universe (Eddie Izzard joke). Within the first few minutes though, it spat out its first universal joint. Turns out I don't have any spares, but I do have some CV joints which 42099 didn't mind donating. It fits! And if you reverse the rim, it works. However... Then you have only half a stud connection into the wheel's axle hole, and enough slack between the rim and the turntable that makes it wobble like you've got your lug nuts fitted finger tight on your real car. What I really need is that red connector with an axle hole in the middle so the CV axle would drive the turntable hub. But that's not a thing. What I did was this: With the two rubber bands which were on the universal joint wrapped around, it seems to be holding. Maybe it even gives a cushioning effect, like a sprocket cush rubber on a motorcycle? So, to my question: Can this be done with a more legitimate connection between the driving axle and the turntable? Ps: Apologies for big pictures. Working on mobile, will try and resize on PC.

Hesitant to revive this thread but anyway here goes... I've had my 42099 built as Rocky by @Didumos69 for a while and been sending it up and down some steep and very rocky slopes. It almost never stalls the motor but plenty of times it's had all 4 tyres skipping. Even with locked differentials, those joints are still working fine. Sure there is some wear evident, but only on the softer light grey "sacrificial" part. I'm using it way outside what it's meant for, and it's doing well enough. I'm pretty sure the way I've been using it, it would have spat out a whole bunch of cardan joints by now.

Cool model - as ever! I only recently learned the existence of those damped shocks. Is there any use to them in giving a working damped suspension? Maybe one of those in tandem with one or two 9.5L shocks?

That looks beautiful, congratulations! I'd love to build it, especially with 4* L motors.

I've rebuilt Rocky 1 today and although what I've mostly learned is that @Didumos69 was really efficient with reusing what he had, I had a couple more good ideas which can just about be done without digging in the spares bucket. Although life certainly gets a whole lot easier if you allow yourself a few spares, particularly black pins! I don't run the front wishbone braces as they limit steering when there's already not much available, so I've had the front wishbones pop open and spill hub parts everywhere when I've rolled the model. I wanted to brace them, but without obstructing the steering. If you do the centre diff like this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNvZCQJ9GVaAh7FA7hXvMxItw6mlmMteoQtOVxBAepjQ1m919fbYeOWllQHTYhfCg?key=MUFmNkF5akpWSElrcU9tVG9LTUY0eU1HVXRFWGRn using 4x black pins from the wishbone reinforcements (which I guess most people took off for extra steering angle) you get the two red 2L beams back. Now do step 37 like this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNC-cJT1jpAPQo1AIIj7WlffChVvc0UJTSapb6oLspNBzRxmF0TUWuDV5mYDQBA2w?key=M1ZGUWF3NjNOQTJqTE9PUnFmQ3JqMjlncGxFZVZn So you get the two 5 liftarms back. The extra two half pins were spare (could also use the non-friction half-pins, and/or there will also be 2 pin-axles available), the bush-pin is swapped from inside the doors. This is neater if you have a couple of 11L liftarms spare. Now you can make the front like this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNkY8Nsg8MBKgFK1slIcYnQNcOBmNtwu1njSA8k1oUj66b6W0vTq6bo8vdIuzJsqQ?key=Z2dJbXZmQmNBS3VTanRSOXBDb09PcWlwX1ZVSUFB Which braces the wishbones together, without obstructing the steering. You do need those 4x black 2-links from the steering knuckles (I hid the red ones inside the diffs) to make it work. I'm not sure if they're essential or could just be taken? In any case I replaced them with orange 2L liftarms which are freed up in the next stage. I reached into the spares and grabbed 4x black pins but you could use 4x half-pins which are spares. Next, I wanted to get a solid stop on the rotating suspension. If the vehicle is rolled, the suspension would often get past the existing stop which is bad for the motor wires. In the end it looks like this, and works great. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPg3WVC8pUAP-RgVAj87tOKXJSkrDx70jdLXy7Dtz0shWX8mMEZwrbdjniQF14bRQ?key=QmVGa195UG54dGR5NnFoeDRoaVNCUDFYN09KYmlR You also have an option to add a more restrictive stop if you prefer, e.g. a 2-axle and 2 half axle bushes, but this would need your own spares to make. Don't go with a 3L and two bushes, it'll just push the spring holders off their pins. In step 52, slide the 10 axle through spacer 18654, then T piece 63869, then spacer 18654. This gives slightly better support to the central axle but more importantly it gives somewhere to pin (using some imaginary black pins - that Didumos doesn't waste any!) another T piece 63869 with the axle connector facing downwards. It also freed up two of those orange beams for use in the steering. To free up those 2x T pieces 63869 you just used (assuming you can't/don't want to take them from spares): - In step 59, do the same for the front differential axle but use a black 42003 which was freed up by not doing step 339 as the axle no longer reaches the button anyway. You might need to put the 2x red 42003 holding the springs the other way up to make space, I'm not sure as I just used a 6536 from spares. - In step 113/122, use 2x green 3-beams in the front lower wishbones to free up 2x T piece 63869 (I used white in my picture because I had them and it was less ugly than green) - In step 286, use 2x connectors 48989 in the rear lower wishbones. This also frees up 4x 3L pins which should allow you to get some black pins back, somewhere!

With the seat, it kinda looks like you fitted one of these: I think it is possible to make it look more like a single smooth seat.

You can put a 24t gear inside one of these, but only if you do so before you clip it together...

Getting there. Rear seatrest takes over the whole seat, looks like the rider would sit there. Can it go down a stud or two? Can you lose it? Getting it street tyres?

Looking good! Does it get up much speed? Been wondering what the control+ parts might manage with minimal weight to pull.

Could you add the usual tyres to give a (theoretical) top speed?

I also got the set for £100 at Argos as a Christmas present to myself, having not had a large Lego set since 8868. I doubt I'd have bought it for £200 but at £100 it feels like I got a bargain. I think the set is aces, and it's really got me back into Lego. As it comes out the box it's ideal for driving around the house; bothering the dog and tripping up the missus. Not much more than that. Gear it down and it'll get up and down more stuff but the lost speed means it loses a lot of its fun factor and ends up sort of in a no man's land where it's slow but not powerful enough to get up much, and doesn't have the ground clearance for much either. I moved on to grohl's truck and it's good but the transmission winds up due to no central diff, which put me off keeping that model together. I might yet revisit that and see if there's room to mod it for separate front and back drive. I then paid money for moc instructions for the first time ever on Rocky. If you're on the fence, get off, just pay the money and build it, it's brilliant. Be sure n read the thread first as there's a couple of mods in there that are worthwhile, particularly mine that lets you get at the batteries easily but has to be done within the first few building steps. The planetary hubs are great for what they're used for, but do mean it's not really easy to make anything fast from just this set, at least not with no other parts required.

Aah, now I see what you mean. I thought you meant they weren't moving continuous in the sense of something binding.

Might help to clean the parts, you can see some dirt in the pin holes which might be gumming it up.

It's a little misinterpretation ;) My meaning was: didumos is, where possible, Mr by the book and loves a pythagorean triple. Whereas, from everything I read you consider yourself not averse to an illegal connection (and I'm only assuming also building technique). So you make a joke of stretching the wishbone (which anyway is a softer plastic) by 0.2, maybe to tease didumos. But me... I'm thinking, hey, you could probably stick a black pin right in the middle and just bend the wishbone over it. So, what a barbarian I must be... Apologies if any upset caused, hope it's clearer.