amorti

I think it'll be a while until there's none left on bricklink. Even when that happens it'll be a very long time before China stops making PF motors. The drive motors are OK-ish, even if the 3 position servo motors are junk. But in that case you could get a replica to put into official Lego models and it'll be just fine with a 3 position IR remote, giving you back official servos to use with buwizz enabled MOCs.

Why not get yourself 42099 from Lego? There are some deals to be had on it. Then you can build the excellent Rocky model from didumos.

I think putting 14.8v into a 9v motor wouldn't end well if you did figure out one way to make that work. The question you should rather ask is if anyone knows enough electronics to look at the MouldKing box shown above (it's taller and has some wasted space inside) and tell you if a 3S 11.1v lipo would melt any of its components. Buwizz 2 gives 11.1v, so I assume it has a 3S inside, but as you know by the price of it, the parts inside are simply better quality. The other other question you should be asking, is if it's really a good idea. The cheap boxes have digital steering only: left, centre(ish) or right. That is barely enough control for the speeds you'll get with 7.4v. if you ramped that up to a higher voltage without improving steering control... Well, I can tell you from experience that it wouldn't be much fun to drive your creations.

Of course those 3L axles with a stud don't work, there's just enough space that the stud falls out and then you have no drive on that wheel. You also can't use them inserted through the pulley wheel. There's only space for one half bush between the hub and the rim to hold them, which isn't enough; they work themselves loose quick enough that I quit before they had a chance to fall into the moving parts. The most stable way I've found so far is a blue 3L pin with the single side into the wheel. It's not ideal but it seems sturdy so far. @Didumos69 did you consider large ball joints for this? I think maybe you could fit this socket where the ball joints are on the front wishbones, and these guys where you have the small wishbones. This video gave me the thought, after I was looking for videos of how much play might be "normal" in the normal small Lego ball joints.

Like it :) Always a pleasure to see a didumos build. Good luck, enjoy :)

You seem to be in a similar boat to me a month or two ago. I bought a MOC kit of didumos's greyhound on Amazon and bought didumos's instructions on rebrickable. Important to note, if you have to buy offbrand bricks, it's good to go get the original instructions otherwise what incentive does the designer have to design and share more builds in future? The kit came with a Bluetooth battery box and a ton of motors. While the battery box is better than Lego's options (rechargable, Bluetooth), it only does on/off rather than proportional steering and acceleration and only gives 7.4v where buwizz can give 11.1v. So I bought a pair of buwizz blocks... They're in that model for now and it's much better for it, but they are also easily transferable into any model. And if I get bored of Lego they'll be worth good money still. The problem then was that Chinese motors aren't as efficient as Lego motors and the servos can only do digital steering. So I have ordered a full suit of those too. Four L's and a servo. If I were starting again from scratch on a limited budget I'd still buy a moc kit from Amazon, but without the motors. Or find an interesting MOC which motorised an existing Lego kit and get yourself that. Then add a buwizz or two and original Lego motors. Even so, I now have a full suite of Chinese pf stuff that cost me not much which is free to put in other models or MOCs at least as placeholders.

The guns are a bit weird and Yes there are a lot of small RC cars there because they're saving development costs by offering a lot in the same chassis. But they're not quite a one trick pony. http://m.en.doubleeagle.cc/products_list/&pmcId=158&productCategoryColumnId=1.html Excavator, tank, helicopter, robot, piggy bank, Santa...

I'm amazed by how many functions you've fit in here and how well it all works. Great job! I guess you've heard f the KTM x-bow? On that, they left the pushrod suspension visible out the front of the car. Not sure if it would be cool in Lego or look unfinished, maybe worth a go to highlight a really cool feature.

Tata is the Indian company which owns jaguar. Good spot that it's a video game image though.

They have all their own pieces. While most replicate Lego pieces they also have some special technic parts such as liftarms with alternating holes (sort of like a cutout from a frame) and liftarms with male pins at either end. Unlike most Chinabricks they also place their brand name on everything. @syclone I have one of those c61018 on its way from China already, although who knows how long it'll take! The kit is somewhere around $70, cheap compared to Lego but not cheap compared to other Chinabricks. The PF kit with a Bluetooth enabled 7.4v lithium battery box, Bluetooth remote, L,M, and servo motor (careful these only do left middle and right, no 15 positions like Lego) costs somewhere around $40 and slip right in. I can't imagine a car that size will move quick with one L motor for drive but I'll give it a try. Chinabricks are frowned on around here. Not sure if that includes CaDA who really do seem to have original set designs - they're still copying many of Lego's piece designs after all. We'll see when the moderators spot this thread.

Buwizz, two RC motors, and not too much else to lug about? Looks like it'll shift

1.5km later, bit of Fast, bit of Ludicrous, down some steps, up and down some curbs. Plenty of full lock steering... Bit of wear already... But nothing snapped. The red beams didn't have enough friction holding them on and could drop into the hub causing a click. This is better, has less slack, and now the parts really have nowhere to go.

For anyone who's willing to illegally stretch their wishbones, I can report that this solution does give a stronger steering linkage.

Nope, they work fine at all angles. I'd say the wear pattern shows they even had just a little angle to spare. That being said, they might live longer if you set the buwizz to only reach 13/15 positions? Or at least to only use the furthest click allll the way over on the slider so you don't max steer too often? Idk. For me the big advantage is that even if they can still wear out, they can't really fail catastrophically like the old CV joints or universal joints can because TLG has put the nubs on the hard plastic cup this time (not like the old CV joints). So they will never leave you changing a drive shaft while you wanted to be driving it. Just changing them every few battery charges. A quick spin up in "double ludicrous" mode with the suspension on full hang and at full steering says it's fine. Will report back again when I've driven it about a while.

I have been driving the model a bit using the solution above, which works but doesn't have much to keep the CV joints centred in the hubs. As a result the CV joints are pretty worn on the softer half. Chewed up, but not spat out. I'm pretty sure it would've spat out another universal joint by now as I've not been going easy on it. The pulley wheels arrived for me to try the other method described by @astyanax. Goes together like this: The idea to use 4L axles with end stop won't work, the end stop doesn't fit and interferes with the parts behind it. Doesn't matter though. Even if the axle got loose, it has nowhere to go and would just nudge itself back in as it span. After that it's the normal construction, just stick a 3L axle in from outside the wheel to centre the double pin connector thingy. I haven't driven it this way yet, but it's clear from just manipulating it that the CV joint is much better centred, which will definitely help it live longer.

Looking good! Inspired by the new jaguar maybe? The embedded pics aren't working for me though.

I had no idea they made a hatchback of this car. Looking at its lines, maybe they shouldn't have!

I thought I saw your class 1 buggy out there somewhere, but maybe I'm mistaken as I don't find it now in a quick search. In as far as yours inspired Didumos's and his was stolen, it's much the same I suppose. It's not a bad plan to reduce reliance on far-eastern imports in general. I can definitely applaud that. It's tough though, as everything is made "over there" now, even original Lego.

Well this escalated quickly... I'm in the same box. For me it's a pragmatic thing, Lego don't offer the sets I want, MOCs do but I don't have a huge Lego collection to draw on to build MOCs. However I also understand why guys like Agrof can get upset as I know his Baja buggy design was stolen and published without his permission (and many other MOCer's designs). That's a better justification than unsupported accusations about child labour or guessing that MouldKing cause worse pollution or have worse labour conditions than Lego, when the two factories can just as well be next door - maybe even owned by the same person. It's good to keep perspective - on both sides. FWIW These companies are just selling me an affordable box of blocks. I'll always buy the original MOC instructions.

Ok... Instructions from China. So when are mould king releasing it?

Guys I know we don't talk about the dark side of the block here but it's very relevant to the topic. https://www.lepinboard.de/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=6383 MouldKing has stolen didumos's greyhound. This is so obviously a bad thing that we don't need to go into it here. They're offering it with aluminium alloy cardan joints. This is obviously a good thing, since the greyhound model likes to eat them as do many larger MOCs. Buwizz and s brick are third party solutions better than Lego's own and they are accepted. If these became available as spares to afols for MOCing, could they ever become accepted?

Without seeing the mechanism it's hard to say. If you're lifting something really heavy with it, the 8t gear can be a weak spot. If you're struggling in general with gearing, think about mountain bikes and how the shifting works on front (well, mostly they don't have front derailleur anymore but you know what I mean) and rear and what influence that has on how fast you pedal, how fast you go, and what hills you can get up.

Glad to see a pullback motor in the competition Great solutions especially by only using what was available

Can't believe how much you got inside there! Well done

My wife's hulkbuster set has one as a washer on the arm's punching mechanism. Seems a bit cheesy to use such a piece as a half connector but TLG can do it so must be legal.