msk6003

Speaking of pneumatic, I always wanted electrical valve. Considering it only need 3 position and spike essential's 3x3 light matrix, one C+ port can control least 9 switch at once. And same way, PF-C+ converter also need to control 9 motor at once. And similar to pneumatic motors, if we have a rotary pneumatic pump (approximately 3x3x5 in size?) it will be much easier to integrate the pump into the motorized model. Motors with shafts coming out of both sides, or motors that are water-tight, are also useful. A small solenoid actuator operated by an electromagnet with a stroke of about 3 studs (equivalent to a 5L v2 cylinder) would also be useful, but I don't know what to use right now.

Video here

Free slide(like 8t frictionless) 16, 20t and 24t will be useful

Boxart concept Comparison with original model All gearing Booster function Bey function Crane turning function Crane lifting function Solarpanel function Working flap Working landing gear I finish B model now. Function is same with original but I add leftover wheel on bottom of submarine so model can rolling on floor. There is 2 switch on backside of cabin. Original model located pole reverser switch on there but I connect those switch with batterybox's switch using link. Actual battery is located on bottom of submarine so battery can easly changeable. Frone switch control vehicle. Work very well but hard to go outside from sub because of thick cable and fast speed. Rear switch control main motor. Can flip onnly one direction like original B model. When switch is on, 2 lightbrick on side start blinking alternately and rear propeller turning. Each side lever control sub's cargo bey's upper and lower part. Like original B model, flip direction of lever choose working direction of each part of bey. Of course periscope is working too using yellow wedge belt wheel like original B model. Opining both bey of sub and take out vehicle

So, my model's main function is based idea of this moc. I think those scissor link flying mechanism will very well fit on this contest. Original model is motorised manual but I want make my entry as RC model so I used 2 motor for rolling small fake wheel. I hope it can steer well. Currently I used black and orange beam but I will buy trans clear 15L beam and change to it. Maybe I will use 1~2 Sbrick. Don't care about something on front.

Damn I also think undercover police. I hope see final model soon.

Wheel for classic car which is polybag scale? Anyway I want that.

Remove stop part. I remember like that.

you can't deny. I'm going to get several and cut some of them for making as your's. Fore some reason it is double sided but axle on middle part like softaxle. You have axle on those part but can't use it. I don't know why.

But in 5L

I can't show picture to you cause it's now in embargo but 100% confirm your version MUCH better than offical parts.

Old 3L diff has single bevel 28t for drive. If this part come can make diff lock much simpler. Knob wheel is very stronger than regular gear but current part you can make only 1:1 gear ratio. If knob wheel has more teeth it can use for heavy duty drivetrain. 9.5L hard shock is to rare in this time but very useful due to it's strength and length. I'm very happy TLG make alternative shock in M1000RR/daytona but it is to much hard.

Single bevel 28t Double/single bevel 60t, 140t Large size ring which has same size with large banana but looks like friends ring Knob wheel which has more tooth than 4t Worm gear shaped 2x2 round brick and crown gear shaped 4x4 round plate which can mesh with splat gears catapiller tread link but no tread to make shape of heavy duty chain Little softer version(same strength as old 9.5L hard yellow shock) of M1000RR/daytona's shock Ring gear which has teeth both inside and outside Modifited version of part 18942 lack gear but has connectivity on both end like large banana Half stud thick gears(not bevel type) 5x5 size frame but has 24t ring gear inside Transparent panel Longer half stud thick liftarm 1x3 half stud thick liftarm but has axle hole only like cam without cam part

Speed controll switch on PF system Every time when I use PF poll reverser switch I think this will very useful with servo motor. I already submit on new elementary's part contest. But PF is discontinued now.

So can't make this kind of thing? Or how about add wheel for 'slide' looking like this? If not, than I think add on rule about is better.

We already talked about that few pages ago. Yes that is new parts.

Thanks for comment everyone. I also thinking that cada's battery/motor combo but I don't have that. Second, I think use BW2 but I can't believe it anymore. Than I made it PF version but now I thinking use C+ hub with 2 large angular / spike large motor with 1:1.29 gear up or keep same 1.4:1 reduction. C+ large is to big to keep both 1.4:1 ratio and side '3' plate.

More about wheels - Can I make transformation vehicle from car/rover to spaceship? Will not exactly same type but BTTF2 delorean can be example.

Last year I bought Tamiya's Hot Shot RC model. I think it's design is very good since when I was very young so I wanted to buy it and did in Christmas in last year. Of course not just for build and control this model, I wanted to build it as lego model so main reason is for comparison with model I will make. I started few week ago but posted in here now. At first I started on chassis. Surprisingly original model's rear tire can fit in medium racing wheel so I bought 2 set of those tire. I use BW3 and 2 BW motor for 4WD drive. And like original model, both front and rear use mono shock. I know this shock is more accurate with original model but I use those yellow hard shock which is little more common because I want make instruction and post on rebrickable. In this version, drive gear ratio is 16-28, 16-28 3.06:1 But when I test chassis gear starting to skipping on both front and rear. So I rebuilt gear train and make gear ratio 24-24, 20-28 1.4:1 but can change gear ratio to 8-8-24, 20-28 4.2:1 or 28-20-28 1:1 too. And add one more shock in rear for better stability. After fix gear skipping, I built remain body without bumper, wing and light. But now I stopped build more. Cause BW3 keep turn off when I drive model 1m. After lot of trying to fix this, I throw BW3 away and change to PF system with Sbrick.(2 L, 1 Servo, 1 rechargeable battery) Now it can drive more but to much slow and don't have much torque.(gear ratio is same 1.4:1) I need to find other way for drive this thing. Than I will finish it's bodywork.

Don't have a way to fix this? I built tamiya hot shot lego version but with 1:1.47 gear reduction my BW3 keep turn off after just 1m of forward drive.

Is BW3 can handle more current when use with BC2 than offical BW app? My BW3 keep turn off while use with 2 BW motor.

Yes if need to lack gear for splat gear it's teeth space need to be 1.5L like TLG did in bricQ set. But anyone can have hope. right?

Rule 0937 : Every wheeled lego technic set has F1 alternative. If not, someone will do soon. Anyway, I hope someone make classic GT as alternative this set.

Not only photo editing incorrect, looks like front tire touch 3x11 panel on side when fully steered(or just image and real model has much less steering angle?)

Yes this set is good part pack. I bought this for get new panel but when building I realize this also include lot of friction 1/2 pin too.