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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    As I understand the position of the body is regulated by using a differential. Secure the diffs output axles to the left and right rocker and secure the input axle to the body and the position of the body should be the average of the positions of the rockers. But using a standard differential will probably give too much slack.
  2. Didumos69
    Agreed. Reminds me of Rocker-Bogie suspension as used in Mars Rovers. Should also be perfectly doable with LEGO. This setup makes sure the vehicles weight is evenly divided over all 6 wheels. EDIT: Has actually been built with LEGO by many builders. Here's one example:
  3. Didumos69
    If you mean 'implementing' as in 'building', then yes. They are part of my Steppenwolf-build as can be seen in . Or isn't that what you mean?
  4. Didumos69
    For my Steppenwolf I tried to reproduce this Citroen front suspension (from 1935!!); an uncommon combination of double wishbone and a lengthwise torsion bar. The torsion bar is attached to the lower wishbone: The combination of a shockabsorber and a torsion bar works out very well in LEGO. The main difference between my implementation and the original Citroen suspension is that I placed the tooth rack behind, and the shockabsorber in front of the axles. The geometry also incorporates drive, caster angle, kingpin inclination, active camber (shorter upper wishbone) and Ackermann steering. These are cutouts from the front module: Close-ups of the real-life build: Like in the orginal, the torsion can be adjusted. In this case by using different parts to secure the torsion axle: also zooms in on the front suspension.
  5. Didumos69
    The suspension appears to be from the Porsche Carrera GT. Indeed interesting how the pushrods have been positioned. Given all the rare angles I'm affraid you end up using more space instead of less (EDIT: compared to a standard sideways positioned pushrod) when you build this with LEGO. Source: http://forums.diesel...showtopic=22007
  6. Didumos69
    Car seats Features: - Manual tilting function - Manual moving function (2L travel) Although car seats in many MOC's look great, they often lack features such as the ability to move back and forth or an adjustable backrest. Having grown up with the 8860-set as a reference model, I simply couldn't leave the car seats of my Steppenwolf-project without such features. I started off with the car seats as can be found in Nathanaël Kuipers' Concept 4x4. These seats already have an adjustable backrest. However, I wanted the seats to lean slightly backwards and I wanted to add the ability to move the seats forth and back. So I extended the bottom part to make the seats movable and lean backwards at the same time. The seats are placed on two 12L axles along which they can glide. The moving mechanism relies on a second worm gear placed just below the worm gear that is part of the tilting mechanism. After building the seats I wasn't very happy about the amount of slack in the tilting mechanism of the adjustable backrests (a worm gear - 8-tooth gear mesh). I resolved this by placing two rubber connectors in each seat. These rubber connectors try to keep the backrests in a 90 degree angle, but they can stretch far enough to not decline the tilting function. This final modification makes the car seats far less shaky. LXF-file here.
  7. Didumos69
    I will use this thread to maintain a summary of my work and for things that - I think - are worth sharing but do not need a topic on their own. Breadcrumbs Car seats Rocker-Bogie Manual mixer Simple 90° limiter Compact 90° stepper Turntable wheelhubs Front Axles Double wishbone with anti-roll bar, drive, Ackermann geometry and HoG steering (23L) Double wishbone with torsion, drive, active camber, 4L travel and advanced steering geometry (23L) Compact knob gear (or bevel gear) axles with drive and (moderate) Ackermann steering (15L) Rear Axles Double wishbone with anti-roll bar, torsion and drive (23L) Double wishbone with torsion, drive, active camber and 4L travel (23L) My MOCs Steppenwolf platform Steppenwolf bodywork My MODs Porsche 911 GT3 RS - Unofficial errata Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS My Mini's 40th anniv. Tiny Tow Truck Tribute Truck with trailer School bus Old tractor Tatra Tow truck Small Porsche Small seaplane Small trilogy
  8. Didumos69
    Okay, if it needs to be known and legendary than I would like to suggest the Nissan Safari Rally Z (based on the Nissan Fairlady Z, aka Datsun 240Z). Would be nice if there is at least one option that is not just another supercar.
  9. Didumos69
    Nothing with less than 2 stud ground clearance, advanced suspension and at least AWD: - Audi Nanuk (Concept) - Lamborghini-based Giugiaro Parcour - Giugiaro Parcour Sportiva - Lamborghini Urus - Nissan Gripz - Zarooq Sand Racer
  10. Didumos69
    I think he already removed the half bush. The images with the half bush (green hubs) are old. The ones with orange hubs are new.
  11. Didumos69
    I see you redid the casing, moved the U-joint further into the hub and replaced the axle with a 5.5L axle with end-stop. All good things, however, your design is still suffering from two issues: - With the shock absorber attached to it, the lower wishbone is likely to pull the lower pin with ball out of the wheel hub. - The 3L pin with center pin hole holding the axle (black) will rotate out of its intended position under the weight of the car. I did one more attempt to come up with an alternative hub that better suits your design (I find great pleasure in designing wheel hubs ). The lower ball cannot fall out of the hub and the 3L axle-pin connector holding the axle is firmly integrated into the hub. For the rest the geometry is the same as yours, so it should fit. I also used a 4L axle with end-stop at the bottom of the hub, so the part holding the pivot ball does not slide off the axle. Using the steering arm in vertical position is not something new. I know there are more, but here is one example that also uses this idea: [WIP] RWD sedan. LXF-file here.
  12. Didumos69
    From your last posts in the axle collection thread, I understood that you're not too happy with the front suspension right now and that you're affraid that this will be a 1.5 year project. I hope you will overcome this phase and I 'm looking forward to seeing your next steps in this project. With the combination of AWD, caster angle and kingpin inclination, you're setting the bar quite high. You don't have to incorporate kingpin inclination, just because I said caster angle and FWD make more sense when combined with kingpin inclination (in reply to your earlier post on the axle collection thread). Incorporating kingpin inclination menans that you can not use the standard LEGO wheel hubs and that's a decision with quite some consequences. My intention was (and is) only to provide you with some information that can serve as a source of inspiration. In the end you have to decide for yourself what you think is important and what not. Anyway, I will be following this thread and I'm very curious what the end result will be. Here are just a few more things that could be helpful (again, only meant as a source of inspiration, you (EDIT:) don't have to do something with it): - Nathanael Kuipers' Predator has kingpin inclination, caster angle and Ackermann steering but no front wheel drive. - are very suitable for buidling your own hubs around (these have also been used in z3_2drive's recent RC Quad-Motor Rally Car Chassis).Good luck!
  13. Didumos69
    @LXF, I found the hub I was talking about in the previous post. It was the result of my first exploration with an angled hub. In fact the tilted setup still is the base of the wheel hubs that I use in my 'Steppenwolf'-platform. It is a tight setup, but the tightness also makes it sturdy. Advantages: - Alows for a setup that combines FWD with kingpin inclination and caster angle. - Allows the lower wishbone to be placed upside-down, which is better if you want to attach a shockabsorber to it. - Lets you insert the U-joint into the hub all the way, while giving the U-joint enough space to bend in all directions. Disadvantages: - The pivot ball joint is placed on a half stud offset, which requires a (tooth) rack that is an even number of studs long. The setup also brings the wheel axle 0.5+ stud down compared to a normal setup. Whether this is a pro or a con depends on what you're building. LXF-file here. EDIT: @LXF, perhaps you should make a [WIP] topic about your project for this kind of discussion.
  14. Didumos69
    All true. Still, I appreciate LXF's search for a properly angled front suspension. @LXF, I hope you don't give up yet! A few practical things that this setup can improve on: - Use the 5.5 axle with end-stop for your wheel hub. That one cannot drop out of the U-joint. - To better hold the wheel axle you could do something like this: (I must have an idea somewhere for a hub that could fit even better, I'll post here when I find it.)
  15. Didumos69
    Very nice! I even see Ackermann steering. Thumbs up!
  16. Didumos69
    Thanks! It has become a kind of brain training game ;-)
  17. Didumos69
    Tiny Tow Truck - HoG steering - Front suspension: Solid axle - Rear suspension: Bogie axles - Manual tow with worm gear 99 parts, LXF-file here.
  18. Didumos69
    If I understand correctly, you geared down your build because of the bad performing gearbox. My impression is that this should not be necessary. When I study your build I see two more possible issues, besides the ones that have already been mentioned: 1.) The gearbox casing - Make sure all clutch gears have substantial play and all individual axles run smootly. Also make sure the casing does not squeeze under the weight of the car 2.) Axles not secured - The endpoints of the axles inserted into the driving ring connectors are free to move beyond their ideal position. This might cause the engaged clutch gear to get clamped between the driver ring and the perpendicular axle-pin connector directly next to the clutch gear. I had this experience myself with another gearbox. I resolved this by making sure the axle is confined by adjacent parts, so it only gets the minimal required play and can not move out of its ideal position. Good luck! EDIT: I used axle pin connectors to keep the gearbox axles in place::
  19. Didumos69
    Okay, thanks for clarifying. Using friction in that way seems perfectly suitable for these kind of miniature builds and opens the door to even more possibilies. It might just be a 'game changing' development ;-)
  20. Didumos69
    As you probably already know, I like the combination of a sturdy chassis and properly operating suspension. Also nice to see the caster angle, active camber and the anti-roll bar. My compliments! Looks like you've been watching nicjasno's video's ;-)
  21. Didumos69
    Looking very nice! But I have some doubts / questions about the steering and axles: -How does the HoG steering acually apply to the front axle? As far as I can see the HoG axle is attached to a pin hole of an angle element. -How will the non-steered axles follow when the vehicle drives forward? I don't see any fixed axles, nor any trailing axles.
  22. Didumos69
    This one may not have the looks but it surely outperforms many other attampts. This is what engineering is all about, in my opinion. Excellent work!
  23. Didumos69
    Good to know that you added the width-wise liftarms. I didn't look into the details this time, but this is really starting to look like something very cool!
  24. Didumos69
    Wheel size and width don't appear as a strange combination to me, but I don.t know exactly what you're going to build so I can not really say. Non-steered rear axles don't need caster angle. Positive caster - as in your build - means that the steering axis is tilted slightly backwards. This causes the tyre to touch the ground behind the point where the imaginary line through the tilted steering axis touches the ground. The effect is that the wheel wants to trail the steering axis, just like a wheel of a shopping trolley wants to trail its steering axis. This gives a car straight-line stability. Rear axles don't have a steering axis, so they don't need this kind of effect. Camber angle would be nice though. Negative camber is especially useful when it is only introduced when the suspension is compressed (some refer to this as progressive camber). It will keep the tyres flat on the ground in turns. Read this article if you want to know everything about camber, caster, toe-in/out, tyre scrub etc: http://www.motoiq.co...-and-Scrub.aspx EDIT: To be slightly more complete: When drive is applied to the front axles - as in your case - then caster angle is not enough to obtain straight-line stability. Again, think of the caster effect as a wheel trailing the steering axis like the wheel of a shopping trolley. Now imagine drive is applied to the wheel and it's easy to understand that the trailing effect will be disturbed. For FWD and AWD you often see a balanced combination of positive caster angle and kingpin inclination. The latter adds to straight-line stability, because it causes the car to lift as the wheels are turned (as long as the point where the steering axis-line touches the ground does not surpass the mid-point of the tyre).
  25. Didumos69
    Very nice to see how you used a longitudinal torsion bar ! Good choice also to apply shockabsorber and torsion to the upper wishbone, especially now that you're missing the vertical liftarms. You could even consider moving the yellow shockabsorber to the upper wishbone too. That would also put the shockabsorbers-wishbone mounts in double shear. As to the torsion bar, my impression is that it actually works against the shockabsorbers up to the point where the wishbones come horizontal. You could tweak the torsion tension as shown in this image. Good luck with this project!
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