Appie

For my idea to work I already moved the 4>1 block to the original spot on the outside of the gearbox. While I'd technically have room for the 90 degree limiter on one side, I don't have room for a #2 connector to actually make it functional. The basic idea would be to put the liftarm for the reverse block mod from the D-N-R selector to the spot where you put the 90 degree limiter, change the 20t thing bevel gears for 12t bevel gears so you have that 1.5 stud for the 2L thin liftarms of the reverse block mod, but this means I have 2.5 studs for a 3L connector Besides trying to find a 2L part that has a flat surface like the #2 connector I didn't look into redesigning the 90 degree limiter, because it already looks as the best design and I don't care as much due to the 4>N issue. Was afraid it would be that much work

The past week I looked at my version of Max' mod and noticed it could use 2 less liftarms for the same result and work with most of your rigid chassis mod. I also came up with a shorter version, but it takes the spot of your 90 degree limiter, which I like more. I also don't like the 4th to neutral thing as it isn't very authentic, but no idea how to improve upon the mod. Need a new location or removal of the 11x5 frame, which nobody wants since it will make the chassis weaker.

Those are just some images I found in another topic on this forum (link in first post of this topic). I really like them for seeing details better and to use for scale reference. Yesterday I found out that my chassis is actually 2 studs too short in width. Dumb mistake, but I am happy, I can really use the space. And krisandkris12 that image isn't far from the truth, some systems are already on their 5th 'batarang' or something :D

Thanks for the LXF of this cool C-model.

Figured it was time for a little long overdue update. This thing has been sitting on my desk basically for months. I just didn't feel like reworking the whole thing, but a new meeting in a couple of weeks meant new motivation to finish this thing so I got something new to show. The front and rear arms are build again in a new sturdy style. Honestly, when I dismantled some of the old I wonder what I was thinking, it's so flimsy. These new parts passed what I now call the "carpet test". Sideways the construction does have a little bit of slack, but the L motor mounted on the side will compensate this. I apologize for these phone pics (again) in advance. Not all details are present yet on these arms, some will be made with system bricks (like the slope above the front wheels) for others (like black bionicle teeth) I need to place a bricklink order. Figured it should first be functional before I go for details. Compared to the old versions where I had to consider the driving axle and steering mechanism in the arms that problem went out the window with these versions. L motor mounted on the side of the wheels would handle the drive as well as form the base as a mounting point for the steering, this meant I had a chance to play with these arms a bit more. Something I couldn't do in the original version: extension of the arms. I think the rear part behind the wheels of this arm is the only part that survived from the first version To tell you the truth some of my design choices I liked more on the old version (like the angle of the panel in front of the rear wheels being sharper), but overall I think these are better. I tried to mimic the actual extension of the arms in the videogame. Some compromises had to be made to ensure no wobbly stuff. Besides trying to mimic the real extension this is actually a crucial part in aligning the wheels after the transformation (at least, that's what I expect the model to do). The red is basically my arm stunt double. This model will use Barman's Claas concept, except I am making one on each side of the vehicle for the zero degree turn feature instead of the Claas counter steering option. This whole steering mechanism will be on a sled (for lack of a better word) and move outwards after the arms extend forward (this part I still need to make, but the arms have already have their attachement points for this system). Obviously the picture above is a very rough version, I decided the battery boxes will be at the very bottom sideways (4 studs high) besides Batman's seat basically, this gives me room for easy access to BB's and also I can hook up a liftarm to the centre of the L motor if I wanted and carry it over the BB's. Of course I first made Barman's Claas concept from his LDD to play with this and see what issues arise. As you can see I messed around with bigger steering angles. At the moment the steering angle on the Batmobile will be about 45 degrees, which is not as far as the real thing, but looks like the best I can do atm. Anybody want some old wobbly Batmobile arms? Tomorrow I will try and figure out a concept to drive the arm extension.

Lockable doors is in the other topic (page 11 or 12) or did you want to make your own version? For your second rear HOG, I'd suggest HOG steering. To improve playability if you want to switch gears while going into a corner I think it's easier if both are in the rear instead of using 2 hands or moving one hand from the front steering HOG to the rear gearswitch HOG. Or place your gearswitch HOG on the dash as well?

I love the work you did on this gearbox Didumos and I'll be sure to implement every single mod you made to this drivetrain. However I can't shake the feeling that with every improvement you make, especially in the short timeframe you actually had the set (have you even build the rest of the model yet? ), I can't help but return to the question: how come Lego didn't find this in the 3 years they "made" this model??? Was this version of the gearbox made so late in the design phase that they didn't even test it properly? The fact you removed the "use" of the clutch gear completely really makes me wonder if they were trying to reach a deadline and just "slapped that on" as a fix instead of figuring out a proper mechanism that you figured out in a couple of days. Boggles my mind. Either way, good job making this set rock. I love happy, frictionless gears as well and could watch that video for hours.

Love how you hid this, very clean. Good work on the speed indicator as well, I'd also like to see a different location for it though.

Considering the above comments, it isn't known with 100% certainty who made the Claas? I kind of like to know, if only to know which guy(s) I need to applaud for coming up with this brilliant steering system.

Great work Didumos.

Dutch S@H says the same. So expected delivery is 2 weeks before the normal shops get this set. I personally like this, because I wasn't a fan of the whole "Lego store exclusive for 2 months 330 euro inflated price" crap here in Holland. 2 weeks is fine.

Yes, they use 100% Lego parts, but the Gizmodo public doesn't consider it Lego since the pieces are very different from system Lego. Perhaps in the studded era, they considered the Technic line to be Lego, but since studless parts became the standard, they don't see the Lego link I guess.

Nah, everything needs to be automated, let's trash the Arocs as well for its manual outriggers. Totally not flagship worthy and not to be forgiven at that price level. Obviously I am being sarcastic here, since I think the Arocs is a great set, but that's probably what Bering would say. Edit Let me be clear: I actually do consider that a missed opportunity on the Arocs, but I can also see that putting the 42009 mechanism in that space below the crane and above the suspension would be very tight, even with the new extender parts. But saying that minor flaw brings down the whole model? Hardly. Same for the BWE. Everything can always be done better, but I can let such a small mistake slide and come up with reasons why they didn't implement it instead of screaming that it makes the whole set crap as a flagship and it doesn't warrant its price. The Porsche costs more, has less parts, is flawed from front to back and you can't let one little flaw on the BWE slide? Bering must not buy very many sets if that's the case.

General vibe from that Gizmodo replies section seems to be people who simply hate Technic Lego and/or wish it was in line with the VW, Mini Cooper etc. The Porsche has plenty of flaws to complain about, but their complaints are more a matter of taste I guess. I remember Lipko (or Paul Boratko?) posting in some thread here that at a meeting the crowd considered his awesome Technic creations not to be "real Lego" and he was shunned for it. This Gizmodo crowd seems to be the same crowd.

Never underestimate kids. Also a possibility. Another theory: 2 kids playing, one kid at the motorized height controls, one on the side of the wheel. 'Woops, meant for it to go down, instead now the wheel is in your face'. Of course it could be that they couldn't fit 4 axle gearbox up there, but I think that was not the only reason they didn't do that. It isn't the first time Lego adjusts stuff for kids. They always have kids in mind. Just look at the Porsche with its 600 baby steps manual, despite being a 16+ set.

The rotors have rubber tips and a mechanism internally to stop the blades at the smallest amount of resistance. So no, they wouldn't do more damage. There is also a difference between a part flying off a model with an unknown path (BWE) and you putting your eye in the line of the rotor to damage your eye (helicopter). The first is un-intended, the second is your own fault. And lastly, you can't lower a large LA fast enough manually to drive it into the ground. Try it for yourself, LA's need 15 full rotations (give or take) from full extention to full collapse. That's alot to turn with your hand.

That's for child safety. Motorized up and down results in children turning off the down movement too late while the wheel is spinning. Wheel hits the floor resulting in parts flying, potentially in their eyes. Remember, this is still a set aimed at kids.

And yet your avatar is an image of the Porsche. Where's the Kossman love? Put a BWE in there :)

See, there's something I forgot to say. Ideally, I was personally thinking about using Jeroen Ottens' DB11 gearbox, but instead of using it for 4 more gear shifts it shifts from counter steering in gear 1-2 to crab steering in gear 3-4. This would of course require a redesign of the gearbox area as well. Which is well over my head. So I'd leave that to the pro's and just kept my very basic concept around counter steering and if I saw a possibility, I wanted to put the switch for counter/crab besides my HOG. Great work on the McPherson, soft springs might work, the front doesn't look heavy.

That's pretty sweet efferman. Back to a concept I had considering I routed a steering axle to the rear of the car already for my HOG, I started to look for a spot to house gearrack for rear wheel steering. Besides the entire rear suspension needing a redesign to accomodate steering obviously I need space for that crucial part around the diff. I think I found it. This is a very rough version. I'd work on it some more, but my LDD keeps crashing and I have other stuff to do for the next couple of days that it might be better if somebody else took a crack at it. Things I would need to adjust were: - Gear on the front steering needs to be bigger so the rear gets a small turning radius. - Perhaps a rack with 8T gear at the rear. - Compatible with dash HOG - Compatible with other MODs already in place (Max' gearlock and the like) - Need new connection point to fix the top of the engine to the rear of the car since current spot of rack uses the old connection point. - Probably some other stuff I forgot. If anybody wants to take a crack at it, here's the LDD, if not, I'll do it myself sometime next week.

Cool, glad you like it. Thanks again for the great idea in the first place.

That's a great tribute. Sacrificed the turning headlights, but alot of functions were added and in this size. Awesome work. LOL@the hatchback discovery btw.

Speaking of Jeremy Clarkson, this is quite hilarious: But what does this have to do with the Porsche? Look closely to what's on the table behind Hammond.

Sure thing, more testing is always good. I tested this mod of Max in my mockup. There's a reason the 2L axle with axle connector is in front of the model: in case it needs extra bracing on top (there's a 3L pin with stopbush there anyway on the actual model), but I don't think it is needed, but perhaps your experience will be different. Here's the file.

Looking sweet already. I look forward to the chassis with actual bricks. Keep up the good work! I really like the huge amount of space you have below your steering wheel with paddles. In your face Porsche