Appie

Had some inspiration to build another little pneumatic model after thinking of my little wheel loader that I build a couple of years ago. They aren't the same scale, because I was going for a look where the small pumps look "big" on the bulldozer. So this is smaller. Functions: - Blade up/down with pneumatics - Plow up/down with pneumatics - Mini V4 engine with differential A little video: Some more pics: I wanted to use that panel for the front blade, because I think it suits it. Decided to add a little grey line to fit with the sides and break up an otherwise very yellow blade In this photo of the side you can also see the blue "chair" (2L pin joiner) that I use to contol the pump below the "chair". The blue hose above the engine is from the pump. I tried to hide the switches at the rear as much as I could, while still being easy to access. Next photo a little more up close: Used Lego's colour coding for the pneumatic hoses. Plow ready for some lifting action. Or to actually plow... You probably wonder why on earth did I want a diff in there? Well I wondered that myself as well actually a couple of time during the build, but the real life versions got it, so why not this It sure provided a fun challenge to route all those hoses around it. It's very snug, but nothing touches the gears or the engine. Thanks for watching.

Looks good, but I have a few questions though: why is the runway on the bow so pointy? Maybe I missed a rare aircraft carrier that had a pointy runway, but I have only ever seen ones with a straight runway all the way to the front. Second question: any plans for the huge amount of empty space from the middle of the ship to the front? Put some planes there? Have them pushed on your elevator with some pneumatics? Just an idea.

This looks really cool. Great work, just some minor tweaks and I can see this ending very high in the contest.

Looks pretty awesome and much nicer to look at than your "colour vomit" version

Exactly. I now wonder how many awesome MOCs are missing because of this "MOD criteria" that Alasdair used. edit: didn't see Jim's post above while making this sorry.

Considering the alternative would be to have every entry with a battery box in the open or at least the battery box switch in the open, I would hope so? At least I personally wouldn't like it if I couldn't turn off the compressor in an easy to get to place, might break something.

But you see... the car is a REBEL, so he just turns that R around and doesn't care what the russians think of that!

And rightfully so. This studless version is perfect. Great job and congrats on winning. This was and is one of my favorite models so I love seeing it in studless.

WHat on earth are you trying to build? A compressor should do fine with a L motor and 1 or 2 pumps on it. More motors on 1 or 2 pumps isn't going to make it any better. In fact you might break your pump(s) with it.

Awesome work! All it needs now is cleaning it up and dressing it up, but looking at your previous models with their beautiful bodywork, this should be no problem.

I love where this little thing is going, keep it up!

I like it, nice start, one suggestion I'd make is to trim down the bucketarm a bit, it looks pretty bulky.

Hey! That was my idea I don't think a minimum is a good idea, because I think it would limit what kind of entries we will see and might have a negative effect on the size of some models because people will scale up to dump more pneumatic parts in it. There's also the grey area of a pneumatic loop, which could be considered 1 function as a whole yet it uses 2 or more pneumatic switches and cylinders you want to get that single function. I think it is easier to set the rule: the pneumatic function(s) should handle the key feature(s) on the model. So a supercar with a pneumatic spoiler is out. A forklift where the lift is done with pneumatics is in. I think this should give the same result as the Sbrick contest where models were still mainly RC only here it will be mainly pneumatic.

Because I like small models? This is no secret since I have been on this forum. I can appreciate bigger pneumatic models like Jeroen's X-Wing but it's not something I'd go for myself.

Which is why I edited my post as you quoted it to "most of them will"

I know. I think my avatar proves that for pneumatics, but if people have the option to build big, most of them will, which I find a pity.

No inspiration and the no size or parts limit kind of puts me off. Otherwise looking forward to see what people come up with.

Thank you very much for the additional photo's Silvio. It looks very nice. Looks like I am getting 4 more tires

Awesome! Happen to have a picture from the front as well or slightly to the side of the front?

That's a good looking little off roader. I like it with the top. One minor suggestion: perhaps a different colour for the chairs and maybe for the newly added steps as well? Black absorbs details so they don't really stand out. Ignore my comment if the goal was to make a full black offroader

Besides making sure everything runs freely (which can be quite a task in this gearbox), make sure the driving rings are fully engaged and check if they don't disengage while the car is moving, this causes alot of gear grind in my experience. Another experience I had with grinding was where one of the 6L axles (Page 72, step 3) moved and wasn't secured on 1 end by the half liftarm anymore. To prevent this from happening again, I replaced it with a 7L axle and replaced the bush on that axle with 2 half bushes (page 73, step 6). Didn't have to take the gearbox apart for this fix, I just slided it in from the rear and used some small pliers to get the half bushes in place on the axle

So there's a grind when switching? Not when drving? For a grind while shifting make sure those 3 brackets (the things from page 86-88) with the ball joints move freely for the camshafts (the thing you build on page 97) to cycle through them. I had a little hickup there at first as well. If the grind is from the diff lock, 2WD>4WD, High/Low gearbox make sure all the 2L liftarms with axle and pinhole are positioned correctly (correct sequence in BI) and also for the thin 2L liftarms with axle holes. I followed the same BI and it works, so hope you can work it out. Thanks

While I hope for bigger sets or more next year. I can't shake the feeling they have thrown alot of models at us this year, because it looks good on their annual revenue results, which will be released next year, in the 40th year. It's a business after all. Revenue results from the 40th year shown in year 41 don't sound as cool?

That was one of the reasons I wanted to build it in blue. JamesJT already ran with the colour though I like how it pops, feels like a summer Jeep. Jeep does make them in blue though, this was one of the first images that popped when I searched on google for "Jeep Wrangler Rubicon" before I ordered the parts, because I didn't want to make it in a colour that wasn't even one of Jeep's choices for the car: I didn't even consider gray or tan (the latter is hardly possible I think with Technic parts). I wanted something that popped and like you said something you don't see often.

Well after waiting a bit on BL orders (and forgetting a few minor parts, which had to be ordered also), here is Sheepo's Rubicon in blue: Also decided to put some blue in the engine: You can also see one of the adjustments I had to make to the hood for this part, because it doesn't exist in blue. For the rims I decided to use yellow because I had a couple left from a Volvo loader. Decided to touch up the interior as well with yellow seats and the search lights on top of the window as well with a touch of yellow (yellow 2x2 round plate instead of LBG). I like how it turned out. I heard people in this topic claiming it looks huge and doubt its 1:10 scale, so I decided to grab my 1:8 Sheepo Mustang for a comparison shot: Despite using the same size wheels the Mustang is alot longer. The model is great and works pretty well. I love the use of the bush for a 2WD>4WD switch. I haven't seen the good old bush used for a long time to get a technical advantage in a model, very cool. I love the whole mechanism to switch from low and high gearing and to lock the diff or not as well, works really well. I can only hope and dream to achieve this kind of Lego engineering one day, but during the build I did wonder a few things, mainly the use of 4 8T gears in a row in the gearbox. I can feel the model struggle with this in reverse, 2nd and especially in 4th. Gears 1, 3 and 5 work perfectly and even reverse and 2nd work very well, so it doesn't look to be like a friction issue in the gearbox in general. But in 4th, it's actually slower than in 3rd. I think alot of energyy is lost in this 4x 8T gear setup and really shows in 4th. "In front" of the gearbox there is room to use 2x 24T gears instead (though this would require an adjustment to gears of the XLs drivetrain to the gearbox) and I wonder why this choice was made for the 8T gears. I haven't tested the 2x 24T gear configuration, because it means I would have to tear down the whole drivetrain to adjust this and since the other gears work smooth I decided to just "skip" 4th. Of course it is entirely possible I made an error somewhere and 4th is supposed to be the smoothest of them all or just as smooth as the others, in that case I apologize and you can ignore this remark. Have another image of the Sheepo "buddies" Looking forward to your next model Sheepo!