Appie

Looks pretty sweet, I like the new bonnet too. Am I seeing it correctly that the headlights go centre>outside for each and that both won't go full left or right? That's cool. When I had the idea I was just thinking in all my lack of knowledge: both turn left and both turn right, but this looks more authentic. Keep up the good work.

Seems another guy changed his pledge or something, because another $89 Early Bird Special is up for grabs again right now. So whoever was on the fence like me, knock yourself out.

Thanks! :)

Well been on the fence about this for a while, but when I saw an Early Bird Special for one BuWizz up again just now (guess somebody decided to alter his pledge from that option to another), I jumped in. Should be fun with RC motors.

Not sure if Hungary has the same promotion, but in Holland people get this notification as well, but it's only for some "Window Decals V120" and not the set(s) they ordered (VW Beetle). I don't see any reason for Lego to cancel a Porsche order. Backorder? Sure, but they are not going to cancel it.

All is fair when you try to make blue the new white JamesJT At least the model from which the panel comes is fairly cheap, just need 4 of them...

Looks terrific and great functions. One suggestion I'd make though: put some rigid hoses around the flex system hoses for your steering. Lego did as well for the 8440. Of course this model wouldn't have kids playing with it to worry about? But if it is, those flex hoses bend very easily without a rigid hose to protect them.

That's awesome. At first I thought the propeller wasn't Lego, but even that is Lego. Very cool. I really like your creative models.

Yay, I was hoping a LDD (or w/e program you use) would get made. Sweet!

Not to mention it took Didumos less than a week to remove all friction from the gearbox. So implementing a wrong sequence and slapping in a white clutch gear to provide "the best possible experience" is beyond stupid.

Actually, it isn't far off at all. I remember an image made by Tommy Styrkovy for where the mounting points had to be for the steering rack to achieve Ackermann Like this image, moving it inward one stud as DayWalker and you did is pretty spot on. @Ludo, can't really explain it words, but perhaps this image helps: Basically the stuff has to line up in a bigger circle for no tyre scrub.

Isn't this called bump steer? As far as I know to fix it, the steering rods and the wishbones have to be the same length. Which they are, but it isn't utilized as you pointed out (distance in your image is 4L btw, not 3). This would also mean the original model has issues with bump steering (yet another flaw ). Modifying the suspension (without touching the wheelarch) and using the full length of the wisbones should fix it.

Well just bought the instructions and because "red is red" and "white is the new red", I ordered the parts for the bodywork to make it in blue Little problem with this part not existing in blue, but it seems doable to replace these for different parts in blue. Hope the parts come within the next month so I can start building. Thanks Sheepo for yet another awesome model and once again making instructions for them.

Those are some sweet hidden HOGs.

Thank you very much for making the LDD for this great telehandler! Also: that part always causes frustration to insert, but it's so awesome in certain situations it almost feels like cheating

Did they re-assemble the life-sized version wrongly for this expo or has it always been like this (sorry if this was already pointed out): The baby panels on the rear wing spoiler are inverted.

Looks great. I think that combination of panels on the doors is as close as you're going to get to the real deal. The overall look of it on the side, with that rigid hose+system bricks below it included looks very close to the real thing. The little gap between the panels is a pity, but I doubt it can be filled without the filler looking out of place? @sm1995 I think the door attachement point is a quick mockup for the door. Jeroen will probably fill up that gap later. I agree about the grill with sm1995. While the whole front does have that Aston vibe, the bottom air intake is a bit too high compared to the real life version. I understand that some choices had to be made because Lego has its limits. Going by this image of the DB11, the place where you put the white soft axle at the front of the grill should be at the height of the centre of the wheel? Yours looks like it is 1 stud higher? The bottom black soft axle lines up perfectly with this panel as it does on the real life model so I don't think messing with that makes it better, but maybe that white soft axle can move a little? Just an idea, I wouldn't do this any better than you have already. Good job.

Wow, Sheepo does it again. Great work! I think this will end up on my to build list.

Well time for another update. Extension mechanism is about 60% done, first I had to tackle another part of the model: the steering setup Yes this looks super flimsy, but this is basically the guts of the mechanism without any bracing. It's pretty much how I test stuff before building a structure around it. Funny thing with this was: I didn't need the arms to extend to align the wheels. And yet I do to reduce friction on the transformation, though the wheels don't turn nearly as much as I would have liked, they still turn somewhat. I decided to leave the extension in, because the real thing had it and I liked it. This meant I had to readjust the whole concept for the liftarm construction I had in my mind to get proper angles on normal and tank mode for the wheels. I got as close as I could I think. They are straight in normal mode and a few degrees off in battle mode, but any adjustment I try to make to this means it goes off elsewhere. The angle of steering is smaller than I would have liked, but this is the best I could do without interfering with the wheels or front of the model (which I am already invading a little), I'd say it's about 35 degrees. Anyway about the image above, you basically see an adjusted version of the Barman's Claas concept. This setup will be on the other side of the model as well. I need the concept twice for zero degree turning. The centre with the 3x5 liftarm will move with a servo (9L axle at the rear is about where it will be). I am looking for feedback on the actual steering though. The part that steers will slide one stud to each side of the vehicle after transformation, so the mechanism has the slide along with the rest. As it stands I have 3 options: - Use the frictionless 8T gear in combination with one servo to steer both sides of the vehicle. pro's: one servo used. I am already using 2 for the mode switching on each side at the rear, so this would be #3 cons: gears in a system that already has slack. Besides using some of Lipko's double bracing ideas from his cool Telehandler, this can't be totally avoided, but gears would make it alot worse than it has to be. - Use a wormgear (these slide just as well as frictionless 8T gears) with 24T gear + M/L motor pro's: less gears used than the first option cons: I'd miss snappy turning of the wheels that a servo would provide - Use 2 servo's pro's: accurate and snappy turning, minimal slack cons: 2 freaking servo's. I got them, but that's not the point. I kinda find it the lazy way out, but I can't come up with another option that might be better. If anybody has a 4th or 5th option I am all ears. Leaning to #3 atm. edit: 4th option: use a liftarm that can slide and is also attached to a gearrack (fixed) which will turn a bevel gear at the base. edit2: After recieving some feedback today from some dutch Technic heads (Ludo Visser and Jovel) I decided to go for the double servo. They pointed out one servo might struggle with the weight of this model and gears aren't a favorite for a model this size. Thanks guys. Currently building the whole sliding carriage with this mechanism on it and 2 servo's.

Congrats, well deserved.

I got to this point and then I got bored: I moved the 3x11 panel on the bottom one stud forward to provide a mounting point from the bottom. However the #2 connector is at the max height before it will collide with the chair. Could probably figure something out, but I honestly don't care for either gear indicator solutions. I'd put a #1-4 on the rear HOG gear selector and either have one behind the wheel below the speedometer or nothing at all elsewhere in the car. That's the only places a speed indicator belongs imo at (hidden) HOGs or authentic. Not to hate on the MODs, they are great, just not my taste.

Yeah, just edited my last post before you replied. Can brace it differently probably for the same result and have a half or full bevel gear at the front.

Place the gears of your HOG gear selector on the front side of the H-frame instead of the rear and use this mod for the rest? Not sure if it will touch the seat that way, but maybe it doesn't. Edit: Never mind, just saw a picture of your setup with the chair. Still think you can route an axle that way though with altered bracing to place a gear at the front.

And looking that awesome.

Though it is not really compatible with your "engine new mount mod" (not sure of its purpose either yet), but wouldn't this be easier to hold the 2 13L liftarms together above the diff instead of using alot of parts to "glue" it together?