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Appie

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Appie

  1. Thank you very much guys! There might be another error in the LDD. I think I didn't place the parts that secure the gearshift axle in the front of the gearbox. The parts missing are a black #1 connector, 2L black axle and a LBG half bush. I can't update the LDD atm, because I am at work.
  2. And the LDD is done! Download here (updated) Few items in front of the model that I could spend a decade on to align properly in LDD: - 6L links for the steering - 9L black liftarm for the dash behind the steering wheel (this will fit irl) - Antenna on the dash for the headlights, (this will also fit irl) - Floating "diff" isn't attached to the driveshaft, that pinhole with axle holds it surprisingly well when in use. I have to lock up the gearbox to try and detach it when in use. Known issues: - The red crossblock behind the dash with the blue axle pin functions as a stop so you can't easily level the dash while steering, you can still level it, but it takes a little force now. The blue pin with axle is not fully inserted into the red crossblock on purpose in LDD since this would cause tension on the parts irl. I tried looking for additional ways to reinforce the dash, but it tended to conflict with the steering. - The wheels having negative camber in real life. This is partially because of the slack in Lego parts combined with these tires (evident at the front suspension). At the rear it is a tad worse, because of how I build the suspension and the cv-joints tendancy to not stay firmly inserted on the wheels. This was a compromise to mimic the big brother, especially in colour, lack of 4L blue parts with pinholes at the ends (or lack of such parts in general). I didn't want to use 2x #1 connectors since that can be easily ripped apart. The suspension at the rear is also a bit harder to push down, this is also a side effect of the construction. - The 4L thin liftarms having a slight collision with the exhausts While I don't mind most of these issues as they are (actually I only mind the collision), suggestions to fix any of these issues are obviously welcome. Enjoy and goodnight! Edit: just noticed I forgot 4 parts in the front suspension, updated LDD file, can't be arsed to update the image in this post .Also updated for gearbox front mounting of axle. The little 8865 has a total of 509 512 parts (springs included)
  3. Thanks guys. @Anio Yes it could, I mentioned this earlier, it would be easy to use the space of the current custom suspension for a rubber bands version. I chose to not use that however, because I prefer this style of suspension even if it is just the springs from Lego parts and not the full spring . If it makes people happy I could finalize a version of that type of suspension, but I prefer the current version. The LDD is coming along nicely, current status: Stuff left to do: engine and obviously the front. If you wonder how I came to this steering solution (using a wheel hub from the front suspension in the mix) edit: wow that area is dark on the image ), it's because this method gave me the least amount of slack (and therefore better steering angle) and could fit with the dash. Edit2: better image of steering I changed the colours of a few minor things in this LDD btw. I don't own LBG #44 connectors, but I will probably order a few to better match the light grey chassis of the original (I use 3 in the model, behind the seats and 1 for the headlights), so I figured I might as well put a few in there already. Also changed a few parts that work better or do the same with more common parts, like using the 3L axle with stud at the end instead of the 3L axle with stop (LvdH already put them on the front suspension ). Once I finalized the LDD any feedback for improvements are welcome. edit 3: finished the engine in the LDD and noticed a minor collision of the 4L thin liftarms on the exhausts. Not sure how to fix this yet. Otherwise, finished the headlights and just have the dash left. Should be able to finish it tomorrow.
  4. Got it! Going by the image on the file (LDD currently updating so can't actually see more yet), that's quite alot you already did. Great job!
  5. Sweet, thanks. I'll get started on it soon. I guess bricksafe takes a while before I can access the link.
  6. Thanks everybody! @LvdH I would appreciate your LDD of what you already have. @Erik Leppen I considered using rubber bands instead of this modified spring setup for a 'legal' solution (fun detail: these are from the Lego springs I used on the 8865 I build when I was 8 years old), but I decided this looked better and more like his big brother. Edit: I also briefly had a version with a swaybar like the 8858 Rebel Wrecker as a suspension setup, but that took way too much space and looked nothing like the 8865 setup, failing the "tribute" imo. @trekman Nope, modern pins @Didumos69 Yes the rear axle has a floating 'diff'. Saw it first used by Zblj (Zero) in his TC5 TC9 entry (also a mini supercar), but with an actual diff. I think Lipko or Crowkiller made a version of it as well, but bigger and more robust, not sure if I saw that before or after Zblj's. Perhaps I should have mentioned that in the opening post. At least to give proper credit, my apologies. I didn't think about that. In my defence, I thought this idea was now common knowledge
  7. Thanks guys for the compliments. Much appreciated! @LvdH Looking at the comments, I'll probably make my own LDD within the next couple of days, so people can build it if they would like to.
  8. Thank you very much guys! I have this image from when it was just a chassis The 6L links basically share a 3L axle at the front. I tried quite a few suspension setups with these blue wishbones (which I felt I needed to use for this tribute) and this setup resulted in almost no visible bumpsteer. Hope it helps you out.
  9. Thank you very much guys. Funny thing for the headlights control is that I had the full intention to build it like the original, however I couldn't route an axle through the front suspension (steering took alot of available space), nor have a lever for it between the gearbox and the seats. Then this method happened when I mounted the dash and front bumper
  10. After seeing Lego's 8860 modern version from 3 sets of 2017, I liked it alot, but I have no nostalgia otherwise for the 8860, while I do for the 8865. This was the first Lego "supercar" I build when I was about 8 years old. Alot of people find it ugly, but I can never hate on this model. So it felt perfect for my "tribute" to 40 years of Technic. I tried to copy as much functions from the original, I decided not to add any new functions that the original didn't have (wether I had room for that in the first place is another thing). The functions are: - 2 speed gearbox (first gear 2:1 and second gear is 1:1, of course like the original: linear) - Full independent suspension - 4 cylinder engine - Working steering wheel (sorry no HOG Lipko ) - Folding headlights - Adjustable seats Features I could not get into a model of this size were a neutral+third speed for the gearbox and a differential at the rear. I could have probably made a rear diff work, but it would mean I'd have to sacrifice the rear independent suspension and build a live axle. I decided the value of having independent suspension at the rear was of greater importance as a tribute to this model than a diff. LDD available for download here (Thanks @LvdH and @Didumos69 for the help on the LDD and the 9L liftarm in front of the model is for dash, supposed to be placed behind the steering wheel) A couple of more images: If you wonder why I didn't use the 2017 part of pinhoel with 2 axle ends on the driveshaft towards the gearbox. That was my intention, but I don't own the part yet and after mounting the gearbox on top I couldn't detect any play in that part anymore, so instead of breaking down the model to get that new part in there I decided to leave it as this. I tried to copy as many details of the engine as possible. A custom V4 engine worked best instead of the standard Lego engine parts, because I could mount the exhausts better and have the transparent red in the centre of the engine (4L lightsaber) where the original had 1x2 transparent red bricks. For the centre console I tried to mimic the original as well. I used a 3L blue liftarm as gearstick because his big brother has it too, same goes for the antenna being red for the headlights. The reason why that isn't simply an axle with a red bush is because from the front view that is visible above the dash and I don't like that. Also, when the headlights are up a bush in that position makes it harder to steer. While I can perfectly fit the mechanism on the passengers side, that felt out of place, so this looked best to me. Folding headlight, simple but effective Adjustable seat's maximum laid back position to keep a seat in its adjusted position I decided to use rubber 2L liftarms below the seats (behind the LBG bush). A little turn of that LBG bush and the seat won't move. Of course I made pictures with its big brother: Which brings me to a problem of this tribute: scale. I originally wanted to use 30.5mm tires, but that mean I'd have to make a suspension that was about 9 studs wide, 10 studs wide if I decide to ignore the fact the 30.5mm tires are far too wide to be in scale. However, I couldn't make a 10 stud wide front suspension that felt strong enough to mount the rest of the car to. While I managed a rear suspension in 10 studs, it looked very flimsy So I decided to slightly scale up my model with the use of these 37mm tires. The end result was a scale of 1 : 0.48 (sorry engineers for this crappy notation ). However where the 30.5mm were far too wide (2studs) for scale, these were a tad worse . To compensate for this I decided to make the suspension smaller in width, so that the total width with tires included would be in scale (edit: and this width is what I based the "1 : 0.48 scale" on, the tires actually needed to be 39mm to be in scale for that ratio and not 37mm, but those don't exist in any way from Lego, the next is 43mm which would be such a significant upscaling that I didn't want to do, 2mm is barely visible I think and allowed me to create a smaller model /end edit). That resulted in this 11 stud wide suspension, which was alot better to work with for mounting a body to it. Also the rear got some much needed inforcement to remove the flimsy look of the 10 stud wide suspension. So with having a scale that basically meant 2:1 it was easy to work with, for bigger sizes I used the 0.48 and for small stuff (4 studs or lower) I used 2:1. The engine is 1 stud too high in scale, but this I could not combine lower with the suspension. I am glad it it's still (just barely) under the "rear window". Thanks for your time looking at my little model.
  11. I loved building this as well, there was never a dull moment, you would always be working on some functionality on the model and/or using interesting building techniques for the body.
  12. And rightfully so, Jim is being very generous. Seriously 45x45 is freakin huge: on most 1:8 scale supercars that's pretty much the entire wheelbase, wheels included. And you get a cube of that space. If you can't make a proof of concept in that size for a Lego robot then I don't know what to tell you...
  13. Glad I could help Jeroen! I hope Jeroen doesn't mind, but since the Didumos69 already said it, it's indeed for the colour coding of the functions and it's indeed behind that yellow 3L liftarm. Each function has its own colour for the axles and surrounding parts, it's basically a real life Blakbird render with colour coded functions. You can look anywhere in the model and find a coloured axle or part and instantly know what it is used for. I love the concept of it and find it a great use of Lego's current colours of axles.
  14. This was the first thought that came to my mind if I'd be building something. A loaded battery box is 800grams iirc? Get 5 or more on your model and GL flipping any of it unless you opponent is using a pneumatic mechanism? Maybe I underestimate the power of a non-pneumatic solution to flip 4+ kg of Lego. Surprise me :D
  15. Yeah... run far, very far! Seriously. I was with you up until this point and giving 2 "ticks" for 2015 and 2016 just adds to the insult of not giving it for 8043. It's one of the most snug build sets ever made, every inch used for driving its 6 RC functions and still looking aesthetically pleasing. It's right up there with the 8455.
  16. Afaik it's intentional. I think it's in one of the previous pages. The curve of the 13x3 panel (the curvy Le Mans car panel) which he tried before is too curvy, which gives it a bulky look (especially with the parts attached to the panel), while the Aston Martin's bonnet is sleek. So while the centre is empty the overall lines provided by the soft axles give the proper curve. Added bonus: leaving it open gives a nice peek at the details of the engine without opening the hood.
  17. If memory serves me right PF lights were always cheaper from the Lego site itself (8 euro a piece vs 10 or even 15 a pop on BL).
  18. Can't really explain without spoiling the "surprise" (unless Jeroen wants to tell it). Yes, it's invisible, but you knowing the part is yellow adds to the fun of this model imo.
  19. I agree, great model. Really cool and thought out solutions for both mechanical and aesthetical. I really enjoyed the build.
  20. Yeah... no. Not when the word "battle" is in the actual title of the contest. With stuff life like this it has to be settled in real life between bots. Jeroen Ottens' suggestion of a virtual showdown between 2 battle bots before moving to the next round is a nice one, but doesn't cut it imo. Or making it mandatory to show in the video that the functions of the bots can handle even the most extreme situations (a flipper bot is nice, but if it can't flip the heaviest opponent, it's useless) is not as good as an actual fight between the bots. It's a nice idea, but I'd rather see this from Mahjqa at a next LUG meeting than have this theorycrafting of who "wins". That said, seems plenty of people love the idea for the contest, so good luck.
  21. This was so fun to participate in! Great video.
  22. Actually this is a very good strategy and it's for one simple word: Lepin. The previously mentioned Porsche was indeed shown at the Toy Fair, I think Lepin actually launched their version before Lego did in June. Considering it's mostly a model for show (since the functions are very subpar) that would hurt Lego alot. The market of people (Porsche/Car lovers) Lego tried to pull in with the Porsche besides the AFOLs, would rather buy one from Lepin for 100 bucks than from Lego for triple the money. So perhaps Lego is now learning it can't show their most precious sets too far in advance (like this 5 months in advance that was the norm the past years), because you have companies like Lepin that haven't heard of copyright infringement. edit: lack of showing functions could also be because of Lepin, can't make it too easy for them to copy.
  23. Very cute and cool looking little 4x4. Excellent job. It looks cool without the roof as well.
  24. Nice, reverse engineering something from pictures is good fun. I look forward to more updates. On a different note, I also made the 42065 tracked racer from my own parts, in the exact same colour scheme
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